weldingrod

If you really must have a diesel, consider a 3cylinder Yanmar. Don't know if adaptors are available to the tranny, though. Big deal in Europe right now, people putting Cummins into old American built cars.

Now I AM irritated. Sold my 1993 50 xcab 4x4 with same driveline. The '93 had the one ton running gear.You are getting about what the new trucks are getting but no matter how often I checked, was getting around 27 mpg town and highway with a camper on. Maybe different gears in the one ton? That was better milage than my '84 720 Nissan. In all fairness, I do know the 720 needs a carb rebuild.

If you want to go that route might as well buy an old Dodge 4x4 with the 12 valve Cummings and drop the 720 body on top. Be much cheaper but will still have to extend the 720 body about two feet on the front to make room for motor and radiator. Height won't matter, just lift body until there is room.

Boils down to two things, not enough room and the suspension/running gear can't handle the power/torque.

No way to tell from that picture. I have an 84 720 4x4 with the 22 engine but I know that because I put it in.

Let's see.......Cummins (turbo of course) is twice as tall as the stock motor, twice as long as the stock motor, about 8 times heavier than the stock motor, and we won't even discuss the sideways torque. Just off the top of my head, I would say....no.

Brake reservoir bolts to booster, no clamps. O rings in cylinder must have failed. Remove booster and cylinder, drain booster, rering cylinder (if you can find O rings for it!)So much cheap crap available on line.

I have the sun shield that came with the 84 720 still in the original bag.

Nissan wanted $180 for a fuel pump relay and 6-8 weeks delivery time. I bought two (one as a spare) online for about $70. Why would you want to screw with a broken one?

I started that thread and went through all you read. Problem turned out to be a small leak in lower right windshield gasket. Intermittent at first because relay was damp. finally failed when it got soaked. Just enough of a leak nothing showed anywhere else. Didn't discover that until I finally pulled the relay instead of testing circuits. I hate electrical!!

Hotrod's dictionary- overtorqued; verb, to tighten a fastener to the point it damages materials being fastened without breaking the fastener.

I chased one around for days and found it by accident. While checking front end components front end jacked up and one tire just off the ground. When I spun the wheel, it stopped. Turned out to be a small bulge in the tread of the tire. Also, check for a warped brake rotor.

OK, so obviously none of those clips hold the bumper on. To get the proper part you need to know what you are describing. Some of those appear to be generic to many applications and you may be able to find them at an auto supply store, others probably not cost effective to make and not available anywhere outside of a wrecking yard.

Do you have pictures of the parts you are talking about?

302 is a Ford V8. Windsor is the small block, Cleveland is the big block. 300 is the Ford straight 6.