weldingrod

The only thing I see that is obvious is the knock is only there under load. Running gear noises also have a tendency to telegraph through the system and sound as if they were someplace else. Not much help, I know, but maybe (hopefully?) somewhere other than the engine.

If the truck has been sitting a long time all kinds of strange and fascinating things happen to the electrical system, mostly due to corrosion. Start by cleaning/replacing your headlight plugs.

Friend of mine once put a Ford 302 V8 into an old Mazda pickup but it was basically a total cab rebuild to get it in.

Try Rockauto. But I wouldn't be surprised if other Nissan arms would fit. Try auto wrecker and buy a couple cheapies, if they work, stock up.

The fun part comes when reinstalling water pump and distributor while maintaining your timing.

Not restoring mine just making a driver out of it. Radio already out so when putting the new one in I just got a couple thin gauge pieces of metal about an inch wide and three inches long, drilled a whole to fit over the knob shafts, replaced knob nuts, hooked up radio, slid it in, bent metal tabs over and riveted to dashboard. Redneck style.

There is a small machine screw at the back and bottom of the radio, Nissan builds the whole truck around that small screw. You will have to do it one of two ways; 1) remove console if equipped, remove ashtray, remove all cab environment controls (heater, vent,fan,etc.) and if you stand on your head you might just be able to reach that machine screw. 2) remove dashboard from truck, turn upside down and it is easy to reach.

Not like an air brake system where you are constantly adjusting the brakes till they wear in; just change the pads and they will conform to the rotors just by using them. Basically automatic adjustment- any hydraulic brake system works the same way.

You could always make up mounting brackets to install a narrow rad into a wider opening. Going the other way a little more difficult. (Welder definition- we do the difficult right away, the impossible takes a little longer.)

Is there any kind of a 720 club on Vancouver Island, BC?

I have an 84 I am almost ready to put on the road, and have to check the vintage of my parts truck; does anyone know how many years they used the same windshield? 84 is kingcab (needs windshield) parts truck a standard cab slightly older but don't know what year. Will the VIN tell me that?

Ball joints are easy but bushings a bit of a bitch. Being a welder I fabbed up a couple of tools to press the old ones out (relatively easy) and to install the new ones (that is where the bitchy part comes in). Freezing the bushings helps and I used neverseez as a lube.

If you think getting the relay out is hard, wait till you try to put it back in!! Tried all the tests I read about, no joy with fuel pump. Jumped with battery, pump runs. Remove relay from parts truck, do something else for a week, forget to see if pump operates with parts relay, work on sauna for a week waiting for new relay, install, everything works fine. I just don't understand when I installed a jumper at the appropriate contact on relay connector why pump did not work.

OK Mike will check pump ground.....tomorrow. Raining and can't get truck into garage due to no start issue. I did remove the old rusty screw from the fround wire and replaced wire eye, polished pump bracket and installed new bolt, but also noticed pump bracket is rubber mounted. Maybe I should weld a bolt to the frame and use that as a ground!

Similar problem. Pump has been bench tested, so works. Tried jumping relay connector, no juice at pump plug. Manual useless for wiring and I don't want to be tearing up a bunch of wiring harness to trace it. Any ideas? I hate electrical, at least hydraulic fluid drips out on the floor so you can find the leak. I am a welder so when my electrical device is working properly there is heat, smoke and flame. Apparently this is not so good for automotive wiring.