weldingrod

Hey Mike, a question. Over how many years was the same engine block used in the 720's It looks like anything bolted to the outside will fit both the 2 litre and the 2.4. I have a 91 D21 and it looks like the same block. I took a 2.4 out of a 4x4 and installed a 2 litre. Just had to change oil pan and pickup and install the bigger clutch pack. Have some engine parts which was why I was wondering. Seems like anything bolted on the outside should fit all Z blocks. Different heads maybe but everything else should fit. What's your take on that?

Stripping a Z22 before scrapping and am wondering what parts are interchangeable. I know exhaust manifold is slightly different and most exterior brackets etc. are the same. what about the rockers, lifters? I amm assuming same block just different cc's.

I am assuming that all the brackets etc. that go onto the early/mid 80's Z24 are all the same. I do know there is a small difference in the manifold inlet and outlet ports, but everything else should be the same on both engines, right?

Actually, I changed a fan/clutch/pump recently and it was also whining. Turns out the clutch hub was faulty from new and didn't work correctly, the fan started spinning as soon as the truck started. I have it installed, keeps the temp normal so I'm just going to live with it.

My carb is hooped, leaks among other things but I find if I turn ignition on (I hear the pump clicking) for a minute or so, then pump the gas a couple of times, it starts right up. sounds like a carb problem but this will hopefully solve your day to day issues until you can deal with it.

I think you are right, Mike, v belt. After a new alternator belt install, several weeks later I could hear a slipping belt when I started up. I always hit my lights right after starting and when I turned the lights of the squealing stopped. Instant diagnosis. Nice the D21 has an adjustor on each belt. I know the earlier ones use the same block so my question is this: are the tapped holes already in place to put individual belt tensioners on, say, a 1984 720?

I just boxed in my bumper and welded one in. Any competent welder should be able to do the same for you.

Has anyone ever tried a two barrel Holly carb?

I know my carb needs changing because it is leaking a little gas but then I see others getting 15-18 mpg. Don't know if my calculations are off (I hope not) but I come up with around 23 mpg. Not sure if I am calculating correctly.

The failure in the column locking mechanism may also be causing the ignition lock feature to not work.

You don't need those screws. Any metric machine thread screws the right length will do, probably pennies at a hardware store. The locking system in my 84 tilt column is starting to fail, but I am guessing wear someplace in the lock lever mechanism. I am a welder so might be an easy fix for me.

You can always to get a shop to do a welding repair on the original manifold, cheaper than buying either.

Damn! Didn't know you were going to get all mathematical on me but as long as the answer is something I can live with then I am happy- thank you very much. Deck plate will sit on the existing box pedestals and the tank will sit in the deck, attached by the original bolts to the deck so at least half the tank will be below the deck level so I guess that will give me an extra margin. Pictures will be forthcoming when I start the project, have to change right front axle on my 84 daily driver first then find the coolant leak on the 91 D21 then the project will commence.

OK. Was just worried that part of the tank would be higher than the carb and might supply enough pressure when full to be more than carb inlet valve would handle. could always install a shut off valve, I guess.