weldingrod
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Checked the part and the book and the instructions- no C clip or mention thereof. Part is broken end from 1985 720 4x4, looks the same as the '84.
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Sounds easy but I can't even get the broken bar out- rusted in place. Used the broken rear end piece to experiment on; heat, penetrating oil, hammering- still can't separate the pieces. and this in a shop where I can get a good swing with a hammer; impossible under the truck.
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Mike, can I remove the whole front suspension in an 84 720 4x4 without slacking off the torsion bars?
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I wouldn't. The lower control arm is under extreme tension and wants to turn downward suddenly if the lower ball joint is released. Even if you did how would you compress it back up to reconnect? You'd better relax the tension on the torsion bar.
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Yeah, just popped tire, removed shock and upper control arm and got a good look at it. Parts truck and everything coming out anyway. Have an 85 with a broken torsion bar, never heard of one before. I mark everything so I can put the left one from the parts truck into the 85 left side.
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So have an 85 720 with a broken torsion bar and an 84 parts truck. Anyone ever changed torsion bars before? Have the rear broken portion out of the 85 and have been trying to separate the rear torsion bolt bracket from the broken piece of torsion bar. This is in the shop with a vice, heat, penetrating fluid and a large hammer- no joy. Trying to do the same chore under the truck would be impossible. Any tips? Otherwise the 85 is going to be a collection of parts instead of a bush buggy.
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Be further ahead to put the D21 body on the 4x4 frame. Unless you are prepared to weld all the components to hold the front axle units the the D21 frame.
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Driving a 1984 720 4x4 for several years, stripping another for parts. Have a 1985 720 4x4 going to make into a side by side quad; possibly have an 82 two wheel drive showing up pretty soon, shed full of parts. Have a 91 D21 I am going to use as transportation when I put my 84 4x4 in the shop for driveline repairs. Thank God for parts trucks, save me a lot of money.
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My Dad always told me if something won't start then check the gas tank. In other words, check the obvious first, it will also be cheapest. Maybe loose or corroded fuse or loose or corroded wire at the fuse box is the first place I would look. Next would be light switch.
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Manifolds are rare? Better check my supply, have several. Also better keep the ones off the parts 84 I am scrapping.
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I have an 85 720 4x4 with a broken torsion bar. Looks like I will have to start from scratch with the broken one. How do I even figure out where to start the procedure as far as new torsion bar install position?
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What if you installed the steering column from the truck with power steering?
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Which Weber carb is commonly used on the 720 4x4's and what mileage can I expect?
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A 32/36 down draft is good but a 38/38 will also work. I think the 32/36 is better driving and mileage almost as good as the stock carburetor as the secondary is progressive and only open above 60%? pedal. The 38/38 is more high performance and is too large in my opinion as it's for six cylinder and small V8 applications. Both barrels open at the same time so mileage and drive ability are not as good as the 32/36.
It's easier to live with a small carburetor and want a larger one than having a large carburetor and wish you had a smaller one.
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Thinking of fabbing up a dual exhaust system for the quad, maybe a two-into-one muffler. Found a great book for Nissan 720 info, Clymer 2- & 4-Wheel Drive Pickups shop manual covers 83-86. Has just about every possible fuel, exhaust and emission set up and lays out all specs and procedures for installing torsion bars. ISBN: 0-89287-388-4.
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Would like to share torsion bar info here, how do I post pictures?
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Going to make a quad out of it, do you think I should post pictures?
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Hahaha, didn't break it, 85 720 4x4 came that way. Probably because they were using it to haul firewood. Redneck shortened box too.
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Just found an old Clymer manual that lays out how to install torsion bars from scratch along with dimensions. Digging through my collection of old reggies and VIN plates trying to id rear diffy ratio in my parts truck, looks like the same as my daily driver. Then ran across a Ratsun post somewhere else wher you (Mike) said all 4x4's are 41's- plates and vins confirmed this so can swap out my worn diffy.
Having an 84 2wheel delivered sometime soon for more parts. Gonna need a bigger shed.
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Just wondering what the procedure would be to replace a broken torsion bar. I am guessing jack front end up to specified height, remove broken bar, replace then tighten enough to support the front end to the specified height. 1984 720 4x4.
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Put the smaller 2wd into a 4x4, basically dropped in. Had to change the oil pan and oil pickup from the pooched 4x4 engine, everything fit. Also put in the bigger 4x4 clutch pack. When I changed oil pans I could see where the 2wd oil sump had been cut off and the 4x4 one welded on. Just something a welder would notice. My theory is the Japanese thought the 4x4 thing was just a fad but when it became a thing they converted the oil pans they had in stock to put out 4x4's until they had the tooling to make 4x4 oil pans.
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Front end adjustable by torsion bars, but I have no idea what going outside parameters does to steering geometry. Rear you can put the axle above the springs instead of below. Considering it is a 4x4, I like the height mine is from the factory.
