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About MaxChlan

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 02/01/1997

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  • Gender
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  • Cars
    1986 Nissan 720 Deluxe King Cab 4x4
  • Interests
    Accounting, Finance, and Datsuns!
  • Occupation

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  1. MaxChlan

    Converting auto to manual locking hubs

    Bump because I'm curious as well; from what I've read the manual type seems to be easier to work on in the future should anything go wrong.
  2. MaxChlan

    720 king cab healights/dahlights dont work

    I was just about to say that. My truck was really clean when I got it but some of the grounds had to be cleaned; definitely check those!
  3. MaxChlan

    Max's 1986 Nissan 720 King Cab 4x4

    Quick little project I did last night. After cleaning off the air cleaner when I did the head gasket I noticed that without all the grease and oil it looked like shit. A little high temperature rattle can action fixed that. Before: After:
  4. MaxChlan

    Write-up for 4x4 front disc replacement?

    On Sunday I'm going to do the drums and take a peek at the rotors and ascertain their condition. I've been told that it's unwise to change just the pads, as pads and rotors tend to create wear patterns together, but if the rotors look to be in good condition I may opt to just replace the pads and see how it goes. I'll throw the rotors I ordered in the parts pile until I need them.
  5. MaxChlan

    Write-up for 4x4 front disc replacement?

    My CV axles are actually only two years old; I had them replaced right away when I bought the truck (before I knew how to use a wrench)
  6. MaxChlan

    Write-up for 4x4 front disc replacement?

    Yeah, I was afraid you would say that. My driver's side front wheel is running on 5 lug nuts because one of them was fucked up long ago before I had the truck, and while I was in there doing a seemingly simple rotor/pad job I was going to do that. My bearings are good, the automatic hubs work fine, and I'd rather just not fuck with all of that in the event I screw something up. My rotors don't seem to be warped or anything, I just figured since I was doing the rear drums (which are the cause of some braking and dragging issues) I was going to do the fronts as well.
  7. Is there a write-up somewhere for the replacement of the front discs on 4x4 720's? I was reading the service manual and it seems a bit more involved than the caliper replacements I've done in the past. I used the search function on the forums but it wasn't coming up with anything. Does anyone know of a write-up somewhere on here or other forums?
  8. MaxChlan

    Guage cluster.....clock no worky

    Check location 8 on the fuse block; should be 10A fuse that goes to the clock, inspection lamp, and the horn. You may be able to access the plug for the clock from under the dash by removing the black metal under-dash cover. Here is the wiring diagram for the clock to check for power:
  9. MaxChlan

    Max's 1986 Nissan 720 King Cab 4x4

    So, here's a mini-conclusion about my time replacing the head gasket, timing components, water pump, and other bits. I'd like to preface this with a quick thank you to all who answered my questions; it helped tremendously. Things are always difficult the first time you do them; from taking off different accessories to setting an engine on TDC, it can be very difficult to keep track of everything you're doing. To those who have more experience than me working on vehicles, I'm sure doing a head gasket on a Z24 would be fairly straightforward. So this dialogue is more geared towards those who (like me) do not have the experience. One of the best pieces of advice I can give when doing this procedure is to take more pictures; more than you may think you need. This is especially important when it comes to the vacuum lines on the stock Hitachi carburetor, because it really is a fucking mess. My suggestion is to take pieces of painter's tape and number different hoses on both sides of a coupling point, so when you remove it you have a better chance of finding where everything goes. On the notion of documentation, pay particular attention to where each length of bolt on the timing cover goes, as there are multiple lengths due to the fact that some bolts also hold brackets for the power steering pump and accessory belt tensioner, while others go through the water pump, and some simply go into the timing cover itself. My advice would be to take a picture and either print it out so you can write which length goes where, or use a mobile application (like iPhone Markup) to write notes on the picture digitally. This will save you the headache of breaking bolts off in the block (I broke at least two), which obviously is a time-killer. Putting various bolts in little plastic bags and labeling the bags (and how much is supposed to be in them) makes looking for things much easier. On the notion of replacing components: conventional wisdom dictates that the best replacement is the OEM one. I used an OEM head gasket, water pump, water pump gasket, head bolts, intake gasket, exhaust gasket, oil pump gasket, and so on. Where there is no OEM replacement, find parts that are made in Japan. The biggest piece that I can think of is the timing kit I used. I used a timing kit from OSK (I'll look for the part number later). I ordered my parts from the Nissan Parts USA website through my local Nissan dealer (Walser Nissan in Burnsville). You pay more, but in my opinion it is worth it. Now onto the actual procedure: I found the FSM to be mildly helpful; my suggestion would be to print or type up a procedure for yourself using the FSM as a guide. If there is anything you do not know how to do, consult Youtube to get a rough idea on how to do it. The most challenging part for me was removing the timing cover, and particularly the procedure for doing so. My recommendation is to put the engine at TDC before removing the timing cover (which involves removing the oil pump to access a bolt on the bottom). This will help ensure that your distributor is in time with the engine on assembly, so you do not have the fiasco I had of removing the oil pump about six times to set the timing. After removing the timing cover, mark the chain and both sprockets for removal of the chain. I made three marks on the chain, camshaft sprocket, and crankshaft sprocket to ensure that I had the orientation correct. After this, have no fear in removing the components. It took me a half hour just to remove the timing components because I was very nervous. In the same token, don't feel like you need to do it fast. Take your time, measure three times and cut once. Once the timing assembly is removed, my recommendation is to take the intake manifold and head off as one unit (the bottom bolts of the intake are almost impossible to access or crack loose). Once the head is off, take it to a local machine shop and have it leveled. For me, this helps with the peace of mind. Assembly was much easier than removal of all the components. My biggest recommendation is to take the stupid rubber half-moon off the front of the head until you have literally everything done aside from installing the valve cover. I dropped the half moon in twice, and one time resulted in me having to completely remove the front cover again. In addition, place a rag inside the hole to block any other things from falling in (like a screw or socket). Better safe than sorry; slap a spot of RTV on the half moon when you put the valve cover on and it shouldn't fall off again. That is about it for this conclusion. Here's where I'm at now: Last night, I removed the snow tires from the truck and put my summer tires back on (in August, lol). The engine is a little down on power (thanks in part to old gas, and needing to set the hot valve lash as well as fine tune the ignition timing) but it seems to drive okay. Looking into the future, I have brakes for all four corners on the way because the brakes are pretty bad at this point. The rears drag a lot, and I believe the passenger front brake is pretty worn down. I also have an exhaust leak which is a simple fix. I have one question regarding the rear drums: where is the best place to get the self-adjustment device? It seems like the kits I ordered do not come with one, and Google searches have been fruitless. That's all for now; unfortunately the truck is greasy and gross so no pictures yet. Look for some in the future! I hope this little conclusion was informative and mildly entertaining.
  10. MaxChlan

    Max's 1986 Nissan 720 King Cab 4x4

    It's.... Alive! Of course, the ignition timing still isn't quite right. This is with the cap twisted as far as it will go clockwise, so I think the distributor moved when I put the oil pump back in.
  11. MaxChlan

    Max's 1986 Nissan 720 King Cab 4x4

    After doing some digging in my 86 FSM and I found this image: The text above it seems to indicate that this is what the rotor should look like when the engine is at TDC, but that doesn't seem seem like what you're telling me. It seems like one of two things is happening: 1. My cap is wrong (could be a possibility, since the cap that was on the truck when I parked it was actually cracked and I replaced it with one the previous owner gave me when he sold it to me, even though I checked that they were identical I could have been mistaken). 2. I'm setting the timing too late, I.E, the burn is finishing just as the power-stroke should be beginning. Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures of what it currently looks like because honestly I was pretty frustrated, and when frustration happens bad shit happens (like dropping the rubber half moon down the timing cover 😒).
  12. MaxChlan

    Max's 1986 Nissan 720 King Cab 4x4

    Alright, so still no luck here with getting it started. I believe it is still an ignition timing issue. I did some troubleshooting procedures as follows: Fuel is at the proper level in carb All 8 plugs have spark Air cleaner is off With the engine at TDC: -Aligned the rotor so that E1 spark plug would be firing -Reinstalled oil pump and ensured that rotor stayed in place (the shaft if firmly seated in the distributor) -New oil in -Vacuum lines were either blocked off of in their correct spots (including vacuum advance) When I crank the engine, its mostly backfire out of the top of the carb. Anyone have any other ideas?
  13. MaxChlan

    Max's 1986 Nissan 720 King Cab 4x4

    Perfect! Thanks Mike. If I am right and the distributor is out of time, what is the best way to spin it independently of the oil pump? The last few times I've removed the oil pump and used a long flathead screwdriver to spin it, but I feel like there's got to be an easier way.
  14. MaxChlan

    Max's 1986 Nissan 720 King Cab 4x4

    Fellas, I am having an issue getting my truck running, and after some troubleshooting I think that my ignition timing is off with the rest of the engine. I put the engine at TDC, and attempted to put the arm of the rotor in the correct position but I think I was off a fair amount, as no amount of adjustment of the cap helped. Could someone post a picture of what the rotor looks like at TDC?
  15. MaxChlan

    New member to the Ratsun club

    If you're wondering how to post pictures on here, I use Imgur (RIP photobucket). I did a quick write-up on how to use it if you're new to forums, which you can find here.

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