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64' Datsun 320 Field Find


jacobbell69

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Holy Shit, Man. You sure that truck wasn't imported form Pakistan, Malaysia, Nigeria, or some such place with that tie-rod ??

 

I don't know if I'd sit in it with that tie-rod, let alone ride in it with an L-Series motor.

 

Gotta get that fixed !!

 

 

 

PS: No offense meant to anyone here from Pakistan, Malaysia, Nigeria, or some such place.

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OK, the 320 centerlink is around 17 inches from tie rod center to tie rod center, the 520/521 is around 20 1/2 inches tie rod center to tie rod center, they will not interchange, but you could buy a 521 centerlink and cut around 4 to 4 1/2 inches out of the center, then slide a 6/8 inch sleeve over the bar to the side, then bevel the ends of the bar and weld them together, then grind the excess off until the sleeve will slide over that weld with some force, then weld that into position also.

You could also have a bar made at a machine shop, but keep in mind that one side has a reversed thread and you would still need the left and right tie rod ends.

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Holy Shit, Man. You sure that truck wasn't imported form Pakistan, Malaysia, Nigeria, or some such place with that tie-rod ??

 

I don't know if I'd sit in it with that tie-rod, let alone ride in it with an L-Series motor.

 

Gotta get that fixed !!

 

 

 

PS: No offense meant to anyone here from Pakistan, Malaysia, Nigeria, or some such place.

 

"****hole" center links

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Wayno

Beautiful, I will modify a center link from a 520/521. Are they the same between 520 and 521? I see the tie rod ends and the idler arm are the same between 320-620

The 520 and 521 have the same centerlinks.

I would buy a complete centerlink assembly with tie rod ends as if you start buying each piece separately they tend to send 2 lefts or 2 rights and not a left and a right, same happens with the outer 520/521 tie rods, they are different unless you can find the adjustable type which are hard to find, I don't know if the one in the ebay link below is what you need, but it will look like that one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Centric-Parts-612-42802-Center-Link/282816751634?epid=214967588&hash=item41d9312812:g:1pgAAOSwgmJX1zZy&vxp=mtr

I am sure one of the guys on here that deals with Rock Auto and them other outfits can find you one online, me I have parted out so many 521s that I will never need another one, fact is I don't even need most of them myself anymore, but my stuff is all used, I never throw anything away as I might need it one day.

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OK, let us talk about this so you understand, the 520/521 centerlink has tie adjustable rod ends on it, one end has left hand threads, the other end has right hand threads, these tie rods connected to the center link connect to the idler arm and pitman arm.

Then there are the tie rod assemblies that go from the idler arm and pitman arm to the steering knuckles on the steering spindles, there is a left and a right side, these tie rod assemblies are not adjustable as they are one piece, there is a left side and a right side, they are not interchangeable.

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Wayno, yes I understand that. Just curious if the tie rod assemblies from a 520/620 are the same as the 320. Since I can shorter the center link, the tie rod assemblies are the only pieces I’m missing to rebuild all the steering.

 

Difrangia here is ted’s email. tcheaton@hotmail.com

Send him a shout and he can get with you on the 320 manual. I don’t have parts books for the 520 or 620, I have a manual for my 620 I got it on eBay.

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Your kidding right, that will get you rolling around on your property but you can likely do that now, there is a lot more than that, there are kingpins, upper and lower control arm bushings, bearings, brakes, it really depends on what result you want in the end.

If your going to use the J13 I would get it running in the 520 first, once it is determined it is good then think about putting it in the 320, if it is no good then consider the L20b or A series engine, both are a major step forward compared to the E, and J series engines, remember to fill the transmission with gear oil before running the engine as you do not want to get the J13 running just to ruin the transmission test running the engine.

You will also have to measure the 520 engine mount hardware if you get the engine running, the 520 chassis is wider than the 320 chassis, the 520 mount hardware might no go into the 320 chassis without some modding/fabrication.

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Your kidding right, that will get you rolling around on your property but you can likely do that now, there is a lot more than that, there are kingpins, upper and lower control arm bushings, bearings, brakes, it really depends on what result you want in the end.

If your going to use the J13 I would get it running in the 520 first, once it is determined it is good then think about putting it in the 320, if it is no good then consider the L20b or A series engine, both are a major step forward compared to the E, and J series engines, remember to fill the transmission with gear oil before running the engine as you do not want to get the J13 running just to ruin the transmission test running the engine.

You will also have to measure the 520 engine mount hardware if you get the engine running, the 520 chassis is wider than the 320 chassis, the 520 mount hardware might no go into the 320 chassis without some modding/fabrication.

I know I will need to complete the king pins and all new bushings for the upper and lowers, etc. however from my reading the king pins are the same from  320-620. soon i will be doing my 620 king pins so i will get familiar with those. planning on running disc brakes front and rear, also about to do this to my 620. using beebani's kit but im open to other suggestions because his kit require 16" rims. wondering if spacers can get me down to at least a 15". i have 16" on my 620 but would prefer smaller on this 320.

I know I will need to weld the engine mount from the 520 onto the frame of my 320 since someone cut my passenger side off. Going to wait until I test fit to see what needs done. I will of course start and test the J13 before even pulling it out of the 520 at all. worse comes to worse i'll put my spare l20b in, for simplicity however i am likely going to try this J13 first.

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I run stock 14 inch 620 disc brake rims on everything I own if possible, I can even use 320/520/521/early 620 rims if I want, I have front disc brakes on every Datsun vehicle I own, it is all a matter of knowing what to do.

320 rims are harder to clearance than the 520/521 rims, they only need 8 high spots hit with a hammer, I even had front 1990 Nissan Hardbocy V6 dual piston calipers on my work truck with 521 rims and they didn't hit anything after I hammered down the high spots, the 320 rims have rivets holding them together and they have to be ground down slightly to clear the calipers, I am using Mikes kit which uses 1985 Nissan 720 rotors/calipers and am using the 320 rims on my L320.

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I know I will need to complete the king pins and all new bushings for the upper and lowers, etc. however from my reading the king pins are the same from 320-620. soon i will be doing my 620 king pins so i will get familiar with those. planning on running disc brakes front and rear, also about to do this to my 620. using beebani's kit but im open to other suggestions because his kit require 16" rims. wondering if spacers can get me down to at least a 15". i have 16" on my 620 but would prefer smaller on this 320.

I know I will need to weld the engine mount from the 520 onto the frame of my 320 since someone cut my passenger side off. Going to wait until I test fit to see what needs done. I will of course start and test the J13 before even pulling it out of the 520 at all. worse comes to worse i'll put my spare l20b in, for simplicity however i am likely going to try this J13 first.

I believe 15 is not problem with beebani's disc brake kit. I am using his kit with the hardbody calipers and I am running a 15 inch rim ..

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 worse comes to worse i'll put my spare l20b in, for simplicity however i am likely going to try this J13 first.

 

I personally would not recommend an L series motor in your 320 unless you really want it, not just for simplicity. I bought mine with an L16 already in the bay, and the floors are cut up more than I'd like if I was able to start with a fresh 320. There are holes cut in the firewall to access the bolts that connect the trans and motor. The mechanical fan can't fit. I really like the look of the J series engines in the 320, but everyone has their own taste. I just wanted to throw my .02 out there since I have the L series in mine. 

 

For the brakes I am also fan of Mikes kit. It was designed specifically for the Datsun by a Datsun enthusiast. http://www.bluehandsinc.com/

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Oh really? Awesome. Maybe can get away with 14’s if I run a spacer

I Dont think the 14s even with a spacer will work with his kit. I think it was pretty close with my 15s... I can check how much clearance is left but it wasn't much....

Maybe by grinding the back of the caliper and anything in the way on the rim you could get the clearance but I would have a set of 15 ready just incase....

 

I would say get mike klotz conversion if ypu want 14s but it sounds like you already have beebani's kit....

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I Dont think the 14s even with a spacer will work with his kit. I think it was pretty close with my 15s... I can check how much clearance is left but it wasn't much....

Maybe by grinding the back of the caliper and anything in the way on the rim you could get the clearance but I would have a set of 15 ready just incase....

 

I would say get mike klotz conversion if ypu want 14s but it sounds like you already have beebani's kit....

i have his kit for my 620, gonna mock up some 14's on it once i have it installed. that way i know which way to go on my 320. ill be running 16s on my 620 anyways.

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  • 4 weeks later...

wanted to update the thread with my latest plan. my dad has got an interest in helping me get the truck running. he wants to make a dually out of it, more power, better brakes etc. the best bang for the buck i believe is to use a hardbody frame and drive train. the frame will need to be shortened of course. it is wider, however with the dually rear i don't think it will look that bad with the front wheels sticking out a bit. we have taken some measurements and it looks like it will all work. i am currently looking at a few hardbodies, he wants it ready by june so hopefully we can make that happen. i am considering different dually options at the moment. i found a toyota dually rear end with the 4 wheels for $350. i need a hardbody on hand to measure the width between in the inner spring perches to confirm it will bolt up. originally i found a dually hardbody for $1,300, it of course had the v6 which was cool however i don't think the body would fit over it as well as it will a 4 banger. it didn't run and was to far away so i passed. it got me to thinking though because i have a spare vg33 that would have fit in place of the vg30i it had, and i have a supercharger for the vg33 but it seemed a lot of extra work. k24 will have plenty of power for my needs. kind of hard to find a d21 shortbed w/ k24 5 speed & a good frame for cheap, at least locally. may have to travel a few hours.

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