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d.p

Manual choke cable? 71 521

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Anyone gone from that twisted to a single wire?  Mine is frayed and every time I disengage from my weber it frays even more.  Its hard to pull and clicks when I push it back so I figure I might as well replace it.  Wondering what my options are?

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How do you push a stranded wire??? All choke cables I have seen are stiff and solid wire.

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I've used stainless mig wire before to replace choke cables.

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I use a Cheap O rileys (schucks) pull wire. wire is soilid(inside) the outer casing is coiled. Hopefull you didnt clamp the coil part to the carb holder!!!!!!!!!!DUH!

 

Easy swap?  And the coiled part goes through the cable lock screw on the choke linkage on the carb and the rubber sheath is clamped to the carb holder? on the back side of the carb towards the firewall.   

 

I read some people use .055" piano wire as a replacement?  

 

37381149084_1c1f742686.jpg

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Maybe it's installed wrong from the beginning. Had mine for 15 years and never frayed.

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Maybe it's installed wrong from the beginning. Had mine for 15 years and never frayed.

 

How does it install wrong? it feeds through the cable lock and you tighten that to hold in place.  The fucker just frayed both times I took it out and put it back in.  

 

Anyone just pulled the wire out of the sheath and fed the new wire back in through it?  IE without pulling the sheath through the firewall?

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NO thats correct. I just havent seen a wirewrap choke cable before. Maybe there a spring on the stock carb set up that pulls it back where one doesnt have to push it back in and cause a fray.

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.055 music wire is too stiff.

I told you what works for me.

 

And seeing where it's fraying, is a sign that the pivot on the carb is not turning easily. That is what is causing the cable to fray at that point.

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NO thats correct. I just havent seen a wirewrap choke cable before. Maybe there a spring on the stock carb set up that pulls it back where one doesnt have to push it back in and cause a fray.

 

That's what I am saying, it came with the truck so I assume its OEM.  I need to replace but not sure with what or the easiest way.     

 

G-Daux, what size mig wire?  .055?  And does the choke cable just attach to the back of the knob in the cab? Trying to see if I can just feed a new wire through the sheath instead of replacing it all.  

.055 music wire is too stiff.

I told you what works for me.

 

And seeing where it's fraying, is a sign that the pivot on the carb is not turning easily. That is what is causing the cable to fray at that point.

 

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You could tin the end of the cable (with solder) to make it more solid.

 

I've never really paid attention, but I think it should be a solid wire, not a cable. Otherwise you're relying on that weak spring to pull the choke back open. Makes sense to me.

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I've used .030", as it's still flexible enough to go around bends.

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I've used .030", as it's still flexible enough to go around bends.

 

Dont have a sauder and would rather just replace it.

 

Can I just feed a new wire through the sheath?  Anyone replaced one before and have any tips?  

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You don't need a soldering iron to tin the cable. You can use a torch.

 

But I would still probably replace it with a solid wire. Unless you have a removable handle on the inside-the-cab portion of the assembly, I don't see how you can just insert a solid wire.  I did, however, find about 100 options for buying a complete cable with handle and housing on Summit's website - https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/choke-cables?sortby=Default&sortorder=Ascending&keyword=choke%20cable&kr=choke%20cableFor $15-$30 you can replace the whole setup.

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Choke cables are widely available at local auto stores.

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I bought a soldering iron so I can tin it, just not sure there is enough wire to do it.  I assume I would have to cut the frayed part off and tin a clean/straight end?

 

Also not sure if I can re-use the stock knob with those aftermarket cables, anyone know?    

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I would cut it clean and then solder it. Make u have enough play though.Not sure what u mean by using stock knob with aftermarket cables. When you buy one, they come with a knob.

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they sell cheap pull choke cablesThats waht I did on my 521.  lasted on 2 other 510s ,    Not hard to find.  cut to size if needed

 

soldering a dirty cable isnt going to work with just solder. It has to be real hot. and use MA flux to get that to stick.  regular solder resin isnt going to cut it.

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I would cut it clean and then solder it. Make u have enough play though.Not sure what u mean by using stock knob with aftermarket cables. When you buy one, they come with a knob.

 

Trying to use the stock OEM choke knob so they all match.  

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Hey DP, I hope you don't take this the wrong way. You have very high standards for someone with a limited mechanical knowledge.

 

Get in there and get your knuckles dirty and find out. Maybe the knob is removable...maybe not. If not, buy a cable with a knob that looks as close to stock as you can get.

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It’s cool. Got to learn someway/how and honestly I just hope someone else done this shit already and can point me in the right direction.

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The interesting thing about cars/trucks of this age, they're just now getting old enough for things like a choke cable to fail, so you're on the leading edge here. You're going to find out for the rest of us what it takes to install your Datsun knob on a new choke cable.

 

Guaranteed, a car like a 1940 Ford pickup has had ALL of it's parts replaced at some point, which is why there's so much info on really old cars/trucks. Newer cars from the 70's and 80's still have a lot of their original parts, which means not a lot of info in those areas.

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It’s cool. Got to learn someway/how and honestly I just hope someone else done this shit already and can point me in the right direction.

...so can the knob be separated from the cable?

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