d.p Posted June 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 Thanks that helps. Hit a snag instructions say install long studs closest to fender and when I did that the adapter plate hits the rail which can't be right. Anyone have a pic of just the adapter installed?? https://flic.kr/p/VQDbnQ Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted June 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 Something not right. No way Weber will fit with all the shit on my truck which I think is emissions? Anyone have a 71 521 and made this shit work? Or can I remove all that stuff and plug it? https://flic.kr/p/Vvh9gQ Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted June 24, 2017 Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 Flicker sucks and you have sharing disabled. You might be able to use a different adapter like this one that raises the carb up away from the emissions crap. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted June 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 Says it's public so idk. Also don't matter if the plate is flipped because the fuel inlet host the emissions crap so the weber won't even seat. So I maybe reverse the plate and remove and somehow plug that round air thingy?! That rail to the left of the plate what is that? And the bronze/copper round thing under the fuel inlet on the weber, what is that? Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted June 24, 2017 Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 The second photo is the way the adapter plate has to be except you have to remove the studs and put the short hidden bolts in there place. They make different adapters like the one in my edited post above. It appears you will have to remove the emissions crap and plug the holes if you want to use that adapter. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted June 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 got a link or part number for that adapter?? No idea how to plug all that emmissions crap and the bolts on the manifold are way rusted. Quote Link to comment
Doctor510 Posted June 24, 2017 Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 Says it's public so idk. Also don't matter if the plate is flipped because the fuel inlet host the emissions crap so the weber won't even seat. So I maybe reverse the plate and remove and somehow plug that round air thingy?! That rail to the left of the plate what is that? And the bronze/copper round thing under the fuel inlet on the weber, what is that? You have the plate installed backwards. See that tapered part, it goes outboard Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted June 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 Second pic the plate has the taper side towards the fender (opposite of the first). And it doesnt matter because the fuel inlet hits the emissions stuff )round valve left of the plate below) regardless of which direction the plate is. :( Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted June 24, 2017 Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 The "copper round thing" is a plug that holds in the filter screen, so no, you can't remove it. To get rid of the air injection rail, cut them off (on each runner) about 1/2" to 3/4" tall, pinch them and weld with a wire feed. No need to remove them. Then you can ditch the air injection pump and all other associated parts. Keep the PCV system if you want a clean runner without fuel or oil smells. Tap and plug the threaded hole in the intake manifold (the one closest to the fender) to take a NPT plug. And cap or plug the small line on top of the last intake runner. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted June 24, 2017 Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 Also, be sure to use a drop of loctite on all the studs and allen screws on the adapter, or it will eventually come loose and cause all kinds of problems. Use a drop of loctite on the throttle shaft threads when you install the linkage parts. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted June 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 Yeah I don't have the tools or expertise to do all that so right now its back to the stock Hitachi. Getting really good at taking it off and putting it back on though. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted June 24, 2017 Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 You can cut the tubes and fold them over to seal them. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted June 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 You can cut the tubes and fold them over to seal them. If I flip the adapter around (opposite of install directions) it will clear the intake runners but it hits this fucking thing. To delete that do I need to cut, fold the runners and plug the intake?? I figured installing a weber would be easy but like everything with this truck nothing ever is. :( Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted June 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 Is this what you are talking about Wayno? Any concerns about hood clearance with this one? I think I read that Hainz is using this with no issues on his 521. I went ahead and ordered it and will see if it solves my problems. http://www.jegs.com/i/Trans-Dapt/969/2107/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710572157&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=44693592161&CATCI=pla-176556257111&CATARGETID=230006180039218557&cadevice=c&gclid=CNn5vcL41tQCFcKIswodgxALkw Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted June 24, 2017 Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 See the horizontal tube that connects all exhaust? Cut right under it where those little vertical tubes are. Fold vertical tubes to seal. That doo-hickey will now be absent. Your air pump is now obsolete. Remove all that nonsense. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted June 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 Thanks flatcat. If that tall adapter doesn't work then I'll remove all that. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted June 24, 2017 Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 Why? Your air pump probably doesn't work anyways. Save the money and get that carb installed today. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 24, 2017 Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 post 32 I cant remember if the plate is correct as I use th tall adapter. you use 2 inner studs must with a allen wrench it holds that side down then when you put the carb on the nuts will tighten the otherside to seal. if you have a 5a weber(manual) you don't need any of the stock wires. As Xmass posted he shows how he moved the cable over and used the 521 cable pull system. the sheet metal mount that bolts to the carb will need the holes oblonged to get it on the studs as they are spaced farther apart as the weber is bigger than the Hitachi. this is pretty simple install should take no more than a hour Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted June 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 Not simple cause like I said that emissions stuff in the way. You use the tall adapter than the Weber adapter on top of that?? So Intake > tall adapter > Weber adapter > carb?? Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted June 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 Why? Your air pump probably doesn't work anyways. Save the money and get that carb installed today. Nah not going to cut anything if I don't have to. Trying to keep everything nice and clean. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted June 24, 2017 Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 That one appears to be the one I have and is for the 1600/1800 according to the info supplied, if 1 3/4 inches clears the emissions crap then it will likely work, but you still will have to do some fabbing to connect everything up to make the Weber work, it is never just a bolt on, ever. Is this what you are talking about Wayno? Any concerns about hood clearance with this one? I think I read that Hainz is using this with no issues on his 521. I went ahead and ordered it and will see if it solves my problems. http://www.jegs.com/i/Trans-Dapt/969/2107/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710572157&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=44693592161&CATCI=pla-176556257111&CATARGETID=230006180039218557&cadevice=c&gclid=CNn5vcL41tQCFcKIswodgxALkw Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 24, 2017 Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 Look at the tall adapter posted above. you can see the holes a spaced different so you don't need 20k adapters to make this work. the botton is close together to go on the stock manifold and the top is spaced for the weber, SIMPLE Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted June 24, 2017 Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 Nah not going to cut anything if I don't have to. Trying to keep everything nice and clean. Nice and clean = less useless crap Air pump = useless crap 1 Quote Link to comment
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