Doctor510
-
Content count
744 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
It is not broken enough to worry about.
-
I'd get an estimate in writing for the repair and what is "shot"!
-
Use the one for an L18 or the L20B If the gasket bore hole is .020" (.050mm) larger than the block hole you are good to go. Good read above.
-
Please check your post. The valves on the cam should point UP (10 & 2 / valves closed) for compression. If they are pointing down the valves will be OPEN.
-
What machine work was done to the distributor?
-
Sounds like a bad distributor bushing.
-
Since the bracket you need is/was not available (read not removable) as a loose piece, find a cross memeber and install it. -
Not a good idea, NGK makes a WIDE gap series (example B6ES 11). Those you can gap to .043". Use the wide gap plug only if you have the the right coil. 1.0 ohms or less. If you wide gap the std plug, it throws the gap angle off.
-
Very often, you can be ambushed by a vacuum leak that is tough to find. If the Vacuum advance unit diaphragm is cracked, it will cause a big vacuum leak. Pull off the hose and plug it. (disable the vacuum adv unit)
-
I am voting for the loose tensioner body, good catch.
-
Pull another pin from the orig cover and use it
-
The hot start relay is a super cure.
-
Check with these guys: https://www.piercemanifolds.com/Default.asp
-
Anyone have a 510 rear brake drum puller? Seattle/NW area?
Doctor510 replied to rosso's topic in General Discussion
Hit it right in the center.There is no 510 brake drum puller. Get a friend to PRY the drum while you are beating on it. Lots of PB Blaster or WD 40 around the center,
