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hughdogz's Datsun S130T


hughdogz

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Looks really good Hugh! Are you willing to share how much your bill was with Paul?

 

Thanks Man! :)

 

Well, I don't want to reveal the exact amount, since I was able to get a "good buddy" discount (which was pretty considerable), and the fact that I did pretty much all the porting work myself.

 

He just sold one a couple weeks ago on hybrid link for ~$2200. Although that one had oversized valves, a Kameari adjustable cam sprocket, and he did the porting and the chambers are within 1/4 cc of each other.

 

For all the machine work, assembly, etc. I had Paul do for me, list price is about ~$1000 (new lash pads, valve seals, new shortened valve guides, valve seats, etc. were included)

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Skib and Slodat, the head chamber CC's are within 1/4 cc of each other, not 1 cc (anymore). Now they are exactly 55.25 - 55.5 cc's. Stock chamber volume is 56.3cc according to L28 Engine Calculator (on Atlantic Z).

 

It is a cool calculator, my CR varies between 7.15:1 and 7.17:1 (down from 7.31:1 stock)

 

It makes sense now on the invoice where the chamber cc'ing was done twice. Paul had to set the seat height to adjust for the cc's for my not-so-uniform first try. Then he had to check it again. Now they are within 0.45 % change of volume with each other.

 

=============

 

Anywhoo, here are some pics from last year when I was working on creating the sub-harnesses for the Wolf EMS I'm running

 

This is the "Ron Tyler style" power supply panel I reverse-engineered from some photos on hybridz:

 

inside1.jpg

 

A little closer:

 

inside2.jpg (Aircraft circuit breakers from Waytek)

 

Outside (I used Aluminum sheet metal, then scored it with a pizza cutter, then bent it (no press brake). I can use my CAD software to generate the sheet metal flat pattern)):

 

outside1.jpg

 

New fuel rail and injector harness:

 

First the rail was set up for barbed injectors, then I converted it to 11mm o-ring, then I converted it to 14mm o-ring to run the RX7 injectors. sheesh!

 

injector_harness.jpg

 

 

Coil harness:

 

It was a pain to make 2 GM V-8 harnesses into one custom inline-6 harness!!

 

coil_harness.jpg

 

 

Here is most of the system:

 

system2.jpg

 

Coils installed:

engine2.jpg

 

I had to punch a hole in the 6061 Aluminum bracket to retain the CHTS (cylinder head temp sensor)

 

CHTS.jpg

 

Electronic boost controller PWM (pulse width modulated) controlled by the Wolf:

 

boost_control.jpg

 

Main power breaker and ground buss-bar. This way, you don't get voltage differences for the system, or have to run ground voltage differentiators.

breaker_groundblock.jpg

 

Passenger footwell, I tucked up all the wiring I made behind the dash (it's all hanging out here). You can see where I mounted the power supply panel too!

 

mess.jpg

 

Behind the glove box where I have the Wolf's connector blocks. You can also see the vacuum line for the internal MAP sensor. I tee'd off to run the Innovate LMA-3 datalogging MAP sensor.

plugin.jpg

 

This is how small the Wolf ECU is! I can still put a few pairs of gloves in my glovebox, Ha!

 

glovebox.jpg

 

Here's an old pic of my auxillary wiring (for sensors like narrow band O2, I went with a different tach adapter though). I made that bracket for another power distribution block. You can see my old stock ECU too.

another_mess.jpg

 

Here is how I made an Intake Air Temp sensor bung and idle regulator bracket.

IAT_regulator_mounts2.jpg

 

 

Air temp sensor is a Bosch unit that has an o-ring seal (popular with the Audi A4 / A6's. It has a very linear T vs V response curve. If I keep it away from the manifolds, it will be less likely to get heat soak.

 

The IAT will mount on the underside of the tube after the intercooler exit.

IAT.jpg

(I know...no one likes my welding.. :lol:

 

Inside:

inside.jpg

 

The Idle air mounts to the block where the A/C used to be:

regulator_installed.jpg

 

I made another bung on the charge pipe to fit another fitting to run to the IAC where you see the line plugged now.

 

Maxima 3-wire TPS painted and new mounting holes (it was brown, now wrinkle-painted). The Weber 65mm throttle body is cool since it has so many ports you can use before and after the throttle plate! :

 

TPS.jpg

 

 

Wrinkle painted the trigger cover (formerly known as a distributor cap ):

engine.jpg

 

I'd better go work on finishing up the exhaust. I've been draggin' ass on that project...

Edited by hughdogz
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Here's how I made the Aero ducting...the project is not finished yet, but this was a good improvement. :)

 

This is what I need to block off for better aerodynamics and directing the air into the intercooler and radiator area:

 

before.JPG

 

These are the patterns for the sides and the "tester" piece I had to sacrifice:

 

I bought some scraps from Pacific Metals in Tualatin, right off T-Sherwood road (~$6.00 per pound)

 

template.JPG (my Decepticon flat-pattern! )

 

Folded:

 

side_folded.JPG

 

All three pieces:

 

pieces.JPG

 

 

Driver side:

 

driver.JPG

 

(that hole in the side piece is where I mount my horn bracket)

 

Passenger side:

 

passenger.JPG

 

Thanks for looking!

 

shiny_drivers.JPG

 

shiny_pass.JPG

Edited by hughdogz
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  • 2 weeks later...

I can't believe it's been three months and I still haven't finished yet! Next, I'll grind down the welds on the DP and then make a couple more mounting brackets for the center and rear sections...

 

Almost all of the 3" pieces are slightly different sizes, so I had to port out any "steps" the best I could. Hopefully I'll make more progres tomorrow.

 

Before:

 

P1170051.JPG

 

After:

 

P1170052.JPG

 

More "porting"

 

P1170053.JPG

 

At least now I got the "kink" out where the flow has to bend in the flex pipe:

 

P1170054.JPG

 

 

1st attempt:

 

ex_5.JPG

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Dude that wiring is SO nice!! I'm inspired :D

 

What horns are you running? I swear I saw those in a STI....

 

Thanks Icehouse. That wiring was a challenge to say the least ;)

 

I'm running these Hella Supertone Horns Horn Kit PN: 85115

 

I've seen STI guys rockin' two pairs sometimes! They are the loudest horns I'ver heard that aren't airhorns! (72W / 118 dB)

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  • 2 months later...

I made a little progress this weekend. I've mostly spent days cleaning grease off my oil pan, engine mounts, engine bay, etc. after pulling the motor out.

 

The paint on the inside of the oil pan started flaking off like crazy when it dried. Not sure if it was caused by the solvents I used...is this common? Anyway, I'll have to repaint it, since it would most likely clog the oil pickup screen.

 

Here is my block painted. I had to clean it with engine degreaser, then B-12 Chemtool and finally rubbing alcohol.

 

I think it turned out pretty nice. First I sprayed it with two coats Thermo-Tec "cool-it" 1200-1800 degreee paint. It looks like chrome, I almost wanted to keep it this way! :blink: Then I sprayed it with 1.5 cans of Dupli-Color paint to match the body paint (2000 Acura Electron Blue Pearl).

 

block_painted_1.jpg

 

block_painted_2.jpg

 

block_painted_3.jpg

 

block_painted_5.jpg

 

It may not look like much progress, but Man did it take a lot of time and loss of braincells. :o

 

Now back to fighting the "rust wars" / bubbling paint in the engine bay! :eek:

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  • 4 weeks later...

More progress pics...

 

Here is my painted oil pan. What a saga! :blink:

 

I cleaned the slude out of the inside of it using a little bit of Gunk engine brite. I'm not sure if it was from the solvent, but the paint on the inside started flaking off when it dried. For sure it would clog the screen in the oil pickup tube. I cleaned off all I could, and a week later it started flaking more!! I had to get it hot-tanked, then I painted it with two coats of etching primer, then 3-4 coats of 500 degree gloss black engine enamel (no way I was going to paint the inside again).

 

engine_1.JPG

 

Here you can see I finished polishing the front timing cover. I must have spent ~20 hours on it. :confused:

 

engine_2.JPG

 

engine_3.JPG

 

Since the turbo I'm installing needs a spacer, the stock oil drain line isn't long enough. So I had Oil Filter Service here in P-town braze on a -10 AN bung:

 

engine_4.JPG

 

engine_5.JPG

 

Then I had to repair some bubbling paint on the brake booster from brake fluid leaking out of the master cylinder. Then I had to remove rust on the driver's side frame rail since the brake fluid leaked all over that paint too! :mellow:

 

engine_bay.JPG

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wow, very nice and clean, what are the specs on the turbo?

 

Thanks! I totally appreciate the comments Guys. :P

 

I had Ken Peak at Phoenix Turbos custom build it for me. It is a T3/T04E, 50 trim compressor wheel in a .60 A/R housing. It has a .63 A/R stage III turbine wheel that has the .63 A/R housing HPC ceramic coated!!

 

I got it with a (late) Ford 5-bolt housing so I can use the "Ultimate Internal Wastegate" I got from ATP turbos.

 

Here are some more pics of the setup:

 

T3_T04E_1.jpg

 

Notice the "Bullet" low-drag nut to enhance airflow:

T3_T04E_2.jpg

 

I'll post up some pics of the oil flanges later:

T3_T04E_3.jpg

 

Here is the "Ultimate Internal Wastegate". I didn't want the hassle of modding the stock turbo exhaust manifold for an external wastegate just yet. A divorced external wastegate downpipe like my friend John Kurzals made seemed like a huge challenge as well. I hope I don't get much boost creep with this unit. It looks like it should flow really well!

T3_T04E_4.jpg

 

 

S130's don't have much room for a DP or external wastegate compared to the S30 turbo'd (~3 inches less space to the firewall). So, this gave me good flow and already has a 3" flange for easy disconnection from the downpipe.

 

 

Another shot:

T3_T04E_5.jpg

 

Stacked!

T3_T04E_6.jpg

 

LOW restriction! (hopefully)

T3_T04E_7.jpg

 

T3_T04E_8.jpg

Edited by hughdogz
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