More power for my L series

[Five10er]

I'm currently running an l16 with an a87 head, 32/36 weber, and a 200sx 5 speed. Compression is 8.6:1. It gets good torque, but above 5k its out of breath. If im looking for maybe 130 hp at the crank, what are some viable options for more performance? can i use my head with a z22 block? What about forced induction??

I know you guys have answered this question a thousand times; im just trying to get started in the right direction the first time.

Thanks!

[NorCalDime]

Well there is no replacement for displacement. (or so im told :P) I think getting a l20 block would be a good upgrade. It is a cheap way to get more power.

 

Turbo is also an option. There are a few on the forums that have converted to FI and gone turbo so there is plenty of info, and pics, for that.

 

Also what cam do you have? That could be another thing holding you back.

[Bleach]

If you want to stick to that engine and have 130hp then you will need to open up the head and fuel system. Aim for much higher compression and higher rpms.

 

longer duration cam, new lash pads, slightly shaved head, L18 block with flat top pistons, high octaine fuel, ported head, fuel injection or dual sidedraft carbs, header, and 2" exhaust. Then hope and pray you get close to 130hp out of that at 7,000 rpm

[RacnJsn95]

No one has confirmed for this poor guy that he can use his head on a Z22 block. It is indeed possible, and it's known as an LZ22 "hybrid". You use the L series head, and timing cover, L20b timing chain setup, I may be forgetting something else?

 

Do a search on LZ22 and you should come up with something, it's been done many times.

[Bleach]

I didnt' think the L head on Z block was just a bolt-on.

 

Besides, we don't even know if he is willing to swap the engine.

[slodat]

My engine is a Z20 block with an L head.

[Five10er]

I've heard about the lz hybrid, and I'm very curious about that. I do have access to a machine shop, so a little modification to make it work is doable. I guess what i'm asking is, whats the easiest way to flow more air and make more power? also, are there any heads (possibly z engine?) that fit my block, that were fuel injected?

[Five10er]

By the way I appreciate the help guys!

[slodat]

There is no easy or cheap EFI for L series heads. You can swap in a factory fuel injected engine for less than you can put together EFI for an L series.

 

To move more air, it's all head work. Big valves, porting, etc. Of course you need a cam to keep those big valves open longer.

[datzenmike]

OK so you have an open chamber A-87 head with flat top pistons.

 

All 4cyl L heads will bolt to a Z block however, if the open chamber A87 head is bolted to a Z22S motor, it will produce a 9.82 compression.

 

To make your LZ22 you will only be able to use the A-87 head. Nothing from the L16 will be needed, maybe the oil pan. Best bet is save the L16 and find a blown L20B for cheap for the parts needed to convert the Z22 motor. Doubtful you'll find a good running Z22 so be prepared to re-build it or use the Z22 crank/rods/stock pistons in a bored L20B block. With nothing exotic, just an L20B head and weber on a Z22, you should realize 115-120 hp. This is not RWHP.

 

The Z20E and the Z22E heads from the '80-'83 200sx were EFI but EFI alone won't make more power. They make as much as a carb but run cleaner, less pollution and better overall drive ability. Not faster.

Edited October 27, 2008 by datzenmike

[Jason]

If you want to do the LZ2.2 hybrid, then you can use a L series head, the A87 will produce close to 10:1 in compression, the U67/60 in the low 9:1 range. This is using the stock, dished pistons. To do it you will need to drill out the coolant passages in the Z block to match the L head for proper coolant flow. You'll also need to block off the old dip stick hole and drill the new one in the blank on the passenger's side of the block. You'll also need the oil pan and pickup from the L16 if you are using the stock front crossmember. Hmm... you'll also need to fabricate a new head gasket using both a Z gasket (don't forget to bore out the coolant passages on the Z gasket) and using the front part of a L head gasket carefully mate the 2 together to make a head gasket. Oh, I think you also need an L20b timing chain cover too. Am I forgetting anything?

 

To make more power, well, that's all in the head. You start with cam with higher duration, probably more overlap and go with some bigger valves, and port the crap out of the intake and exhaust ports to match them with the exhaust and intake manifolds. After that, nice set of appropriate matching carbs, jetted to the displacement head and cam and you're set. 130rwhp....

Edited October 27, 2008 by Jason

[banzai510(hainz)]

The real question is How much money is on your debit card then we can calculate wht you can buy.

Otherwise be happy that your car is running

[510six]

A L20 A87 or U67 head would be the easiest L series motor to build. A L20 bottom end with the Weber DGV and the 5 speed wouldn`t make 130 hp. But, it would be a torquey dependable setup.

[Five10er]

I see. So it looks like I can get more power out of my head from what you guys are saying. I was thinking the head would be the thing to swap since I'm low on high rpm power. I have a G-Tech, an on board data logger and performance estimator, and it says i have about 85 ft/lbs and 53 NET horsepower (net hp is even lower than wheel hp). Peak power is at about 5300 rpm i believe. On the fuel injection thing, i realize that this alone wont increase power, but it opens up a lot of options for forced induction. I would like to keep the cost of this build around $1000... need money for college. Thanks again

 

Levi

[slodat]

you should buy the KA swap that's advertised on here for $600!

[Five10er]

WHAT!? Im new on here how do I find it??

[slodat]

Try the for sale section!

[Five10er]

Thanks, got it. And also THANKS! This way i would have a complete runner to sell to fund the swap.

[Bleach]

exactly. Like Hainz said, the cam, machine work, parts, carbs, ect will cost way more than a grand.

 

But for less than a thousand you can put a KA24e with fuel injection or a CA18DE in your Datsun. 135+ hp and even more torque. Just a little welding on the engine mounts will be required. Otherwise a RWD engine swap isn't too hard.

[Cuts metal like mad]

I am building an L20b right now... But not to make power, it's just for the experience and for the fun of it... It will be fun but I don't expect to take down even a stock Honda.

[denveratsun]

Maybe a stock 1979 CVCC wagon:D

 

You will look way cooler though Zuum!

[Bleach]

I don't expect to take down even a stock Honda.

Not even a CRX? :D

[HRH]

Hey Owen,

 

I'll sell you the motor in my 510. It's about 130-140 hp. L20 block with Z20 rods and pistons, .050 over, .030 clearanced U60 (U67 basically) head ported and polished with dual SUs. ARP stud kit, rod bolts, hastings rings, rally cam. Has about 2000 miles on it thus far.

 

I'm already thinking of doing another Z22 motor since I yanked the motor out of that 81 720 I picked up. And picked up another U67 head at PNS recently.

 

Of course, I'm going to need about $1500 for the motor.

[510er]

Hey Matt! this isnt my thread. haha but ill jack with you anyway for a moment atleast!

just talked to you about this but its going to work! L20 Block + z22 pistons+L20 Rods+Z22 crank+A87 head= Screemin little beast!

[HRH]

Haha, phonetic, awesome. Totally didn't see that!

 

Now, just to get a consensus, everyone who's done a Z22 /20B has used a Z22 block as opposed to the 20B block due to the problem of boring into water passages with the wider pistons, correct? That was my understanding at least. The last Z22 I built I used a Z22 block.

 

Oh yeah, and you might want to use the large volume head (U60/U67) if you're doing the 2.2l. I think the A87 is quite a bit smaller, don't have the Datsun bible on hand think it's in the garage, anyone else feel free to correct me.