thisismatt Posted September 13, 2018 Report Share Posted September 13, 2018 Yes, they are painted black and the ribs between the black in those triangular areas are also painted metalic silver, darker/duller than the chrome. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted September 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2018 Word..will paint them up. On another note is my throttle trundel dohickey supposed to look like this? Spring keeps popping off cause it really doesn't have anywhere to grab to. I thought about drilling a hole on that arm to hook the spring to. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted September 14, 2018 Report Share Posted September 14, 2018 Looks like the spring wore through. Time to drill a new hole. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted September 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2018 (edited) Ok need some help here. I got 3/4 of those stupid air injector bolts piece of shits. The 4th one broke in half and no I don't know what to do with that one?? And it looks like someone messed with this before because that 4th one looked cross threaded. Also I didn't have any long tubes inside the manifold just the end of the bolts. Can I cut that last one down and just cover it with JB weld high heat? Or try drilling it out? Edited September 14, 2018 by d.p 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted September 14, 2018 Report Share Posted September 14, 2018 You might have to go by an easy out and get some heat on it.... 2 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted September 15, 2018 Report Share Posted September 15, 2018 I believe the long tubes are still there, you have to remove the exhaust manifold to get to them. Heat is your friend, you need to get the exhaust manifold glowing orange around that last fitting, then hammer around the fitting distorting the hole the fitting is in then turn it out, you do the same thing with a broken off stud, you nave to get it very hot, I would not do that while the manifold is connected to the block. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 15, 2018 Report Share Posted September 15, 2018 These are brake lines. For some reason the original ones that reach almost to the exhaust valve, have been replaced. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted September 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2018 lol figures. In the end I tried an eazy out and it didn't work so I am just going to drill and tap it tomorrow. Tubes are still on the back side of the manifold (disconnected from the head) and not sure how to remove the tubes? or does it not matter? 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted September 15, 2018 Report Share Posted September 15, 2018 (edited) 10 minutes ago, datzenmike said: These are brake lines. For some reason the original ones that reach almost to the exhaust valve, have been replaced. NO! These are what mine looked like too. These aren’t brake lines. The tube nuts compress the bubble flare in the EGR tubing up against the cup of the tube that runs down into the manifold. You have to remove the manifold to get the tubes out. DP, spray the tubes with PB Blaster and just hammer them out from the head-side of the manifold. They should just pop right out. Edited September 15, 2018 by mainer311 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 15, 2018 Report Share Posted September 15, 2018 Take the exhaust right off and do it 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted September 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2018 (edited) Ai 6 minutes ago, mainer311 said: NO! These are what mine looked like too. These aren’t brake lines. The tube nuts compress the bubble flare in the EGR tubing up against the cup of the tube that runs down into the manifold. You have to remove the manifold to get the tubes out. DP, spray the tubes with PB Blaster and just hammer them out from the head-side of the manifold. They should just pop right out. Nice a voice of reason. 3 out of 4 ain't bad I guess. That last one is a bitch though, i told crash I had to hammer (and eventually sacrafice) a 12 point 12mm deep socket on the two middle ones to get them off. Ill drill/tap and hammer those tubes out tomorrow. Edited September 15, 2018 by d.p 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted September 15, 2018 Report Share Posted September 15, 2018 If you have the manifold disconnected from the head, might as well pull the whole thing at this point and put new studs in the downpipe flange. You’ve already gone through most of the effort... 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted September 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2018 (edited) 4 minutes ago, mainer311 said: If you have the manifold disconnected from the head, might as well pull the whole thing at this point and put new studs in the downpipe flange. You’ve already gone through most of the effort... Its off the head but still attached to the exhaust and the down pipe. I am pretty sure I would have to pull the whole thing off to get those studs out. Which I might as well do. How the exhaust attached? Hangers towards the rear? And what size are those studs? Edited September 15, 2018 by d.p Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted September 15, 2018 Report Share Posted September 15, 2018 5/16-18 I believe. I’ll double check in the morning if I can find the box of studs that I bought. Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted September 15, 2018 Report Share Posted September 15, 2018 Exhaust manifold studs are M8-1.25. The body bolts on a 521 are "SAE" standard. 3/8-24, 5/16 -24 , 1/4-28 #10-32. Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted September 15, 2018 Report Share Posted September 15, 2018 I just looked up what I bought for studs: Dorman P/N 03411B. It also comes with nuts. You only need 3 of these for the downpipe. Dan is right, they’re M8x1.25 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted September 15, 2018 Report Share Posted September 15, 2018 Mariner is it OK with you if I put the stud info in the 521 Parts thread? Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted September 15, 2018 Report Share Posted September 15, 2018 Some Nissan part numbers. The nuts in the top of the picture are a special stainless steel. I have used these nuts on my Datsuns since the 1970's, and I also used these nuts on the exhaust pipes on a VW dune buggy I had years ago. I have never had these nuts seize on the exhaust studs in either Datsun or VW air cooled engines. I also reuse these nuts with no problems. 2 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted September 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2018 Replaced 2 of the 3 manifold to down pipe studs and it looks like I didn't do it right cause it leaks now. New gasket too. Only leaks around one stud but don't have the energy or will power to pull it all apart again. I have another manifold which I will probably just swap over. Nothing every easy with these trucks. Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted September 15, 2018 Report Share Posted September 15, 2018 I have replaced the head gaskets on a Ford Aerostar with a 4.0 Liter engine. Trust me, Datsun 521 trucks are easy. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted September 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2018 (edited) the only thing I can think is that I tapped it a bad angle so now the manifold won't sit flush on the down pipe flange. Not sure I can re-tap it? Those manifold to down pipe studs are a bitch to get started straight. Its leaking on the driver side, in between the two bolts which leads me to believe they aren't mating flush? Edited September 15, 2018 by d.p Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted September 15, 2018 Report Share Posted September 15, 2018 9 hours ago, Charlie69 said: Mariner is it OK with you if I put the stud info in the 521 Parts thread? Fine by me, man. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted September 15, 2018 Report Share Posted September 15, 2018 There is a fairly long unthreaded portion in the middle of the stud. You may have to use some washers under the nuts to account for that space. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 16, 2018 Report Share Posted September 16, 2018 2 hours ago, d.p said: the only thing I can think is that I tapped it a bad angle so now the manifold won't sit flush on the down pipe flange. Not sure I can re-tap it? Those manifold to down pipe studs are a bitch to get started straight. Its leaking on the driver side, in between the two bolts which leads me to believe they aren't mating flush? If the down pipe slides onto the three studs it's fine. And, yes, make sure you are not running out of threads on any of the studs or it won't torque down. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted September 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2018 Think my downpipe flange is warped or munged up. No idea how it got that way though. I pulled the downpipe/flange and mated it up to my spare exhaust manifold and pushed compressed air through it and it still leaked in the same spot. Crash mentioned filing the flange down side flat but I dont have a big enough file nor the confidence I wouldn't fuck it up even more. Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.