720 Crewcab - 4 doors, 4x4, and a huge freaking headache

[Lockleaf]

I'm basically finished with the exterior passenger side B pillar.  There are some tight corners that need sanding, but I need to get belts for my finger sander to do those.  So I primed the whole thing.  Flat primer hides many sins.  As I go I'm also removing any rust I find and priming over those areas as well.

 

 

 

Back on the inside.  I welded in the upper reinforcement bar, and also made a few modifications and added an extra bit to the seatbelt mount to ensure it was plenty strong.  Seatbelt mount was welded to the pillar, then an L was welded to the mount and also to the pillar.

 

 

I have a full 5 seatbelt set of belts I took out of a 96 pathfinder.  They are all grey and in good shape, so I decided I would use those in this build.  I plan to do a black and grey interior, so those will look nice and all match (currently I have a mix of blue and brown belts from the two cabs).  So next step was to pull out those belts and figure out how I was going to mount them in the modified pillar.  The stock mounting design (which is in the interior sheet metal) was a no go.

 

Welded captive nuts behind some strap/channel.  For the top, I bent in legs and welded to the pillar and then also did a couple spot welds inside the door jambs. For the bottom, I didn't cut it very well, so I added some gussets for further strength.

 

Fitting belt

 

Finished brackets

 

With all the internal bits of the B pillar basically done, I could now start the interior sheeting.  Once again I am trying to build new panels using the old.  However, I appear to be missing some bits I thought for sure I had kept, so I'm not sure how this will all go.

 

Just trying to get an idea of what to do

 

Finished lower/middle panel.   I cut it off at the top mount for the seat belt.  Before this image, I spent a LOT of time working with another piece, trying to fit it nicely around the seatbelt.  I failed.  So this way I plan to install the belt and build myself a new plate around it.

 

Above the doors of a king cab, extending back over the king cab rear window area, is an odd bar.  Its only tied to interior sheet metal, but I think it is to reinforce that area.  I had cut the passenger side in half when I took the truck apart.  So I fixed that and temp slid it in to place at the top of the doors.  A little finagling and it should be fine, and fit around the reinforcement bar I already installed.

 

 

There is also a structural plate welded to the interior sheet metal over the seat belt mount.  I had removed that, so I had to reinstall it as well.  But seat belt bolt point has moved slightly, so I had to expand the pass through hole some.

 

Drilled hole on sheet metal and plate so I could extend the "slot" some.

 

 

Front of sheet panel after attaching plate.  You can see the extended slot in the lower part of the picture.  I also had to slice a relief cut in the upper corner and bend that circle slightly tighter.  Doing that made the top of this panel fit properly.

 

Backside of same panel.  You can see how the hole at the top lines up with a dent in the plate.  That hole and dent also line up with a hole in that reinforcement bar I welded back together.

 

 

Crap blurry pic of all the pieces in place as of now.  I cut some reliefs in the upper panel so I could flatten it, but I still need to figure out what I am doing to finish the panel and door flange.  I have a couple pieces I think can work, but I don't have 4 of that upper panel like I should.  If I did this would be much easier that I think it will be.  I wonder where I lost 2 of them....

 

 

 

Edited December 28, 2020 by Lockleaf

[Lockleaf]

After a couple of hours of trying to make the original reinforcement bar work over the other one that I installed, I have decided to abandon the stock bar.  I can't make them fit nicely without completely redoing a bunch of stuff, and I believe they serve the same purpose.  I think the bar I tied it is actually stronger, and its tied in far more than the stock bar ever was.  I'm referring to this thing, which is at the top across the two door frames.

 

I cant get it to fit in deeply enough to allow the interior finish panels to go on above the rear door.  So I'm just dropping it out and hoping for the best.

 

I spent a while trying to fit together the rest of this upper interior panel.  I hammered an angle/step down across the top of the big panel to align it with the corner panel.  This took a fair while for me to figure out how I wanted to build it, though in pictures it just seems like I simply clamped another piece of metal to my B pillar.  Hoping I can get this cleaned down and welded together tonight.

 

 

I don't plan to actually install this B pillar interior plate until the door is done.  I'm afraid I may need to move the door catch for some reason, so I will finish this panel completely, then set it aside until I am confident that the guts of this pillar are completely done.  I'm also considering installing a couple more cross braces between the door frames, but that is likely not necessary once I install these interior plates.

[Noll]

Ok, this is a super cool project, not sure how I didn't see it before.

 

Looking good, make sure to leave an access hole or two to spray some wax or other rust-preventative down in the cavity. Even with paint all the welding means more surface area for rust to start so the more protection the better 🙂 . Will be doing the same on my Z with this stuff, apparently it's also what they put on aircooled 911's from the factory:
https://www.amazon.ca/Cosmoline-RP-342-Rust-Preventative-Military-Grade/dp/B01MRRYF6N/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1KZ3OBUXQ7L0Z

 

[Lockleaf]

Thanks Noll.  I would very much do exactly, but instead I'm going to cut off the entire rocker... 😁.  These rockers are dented and beat so once the cab construction is done, i will remove the whole rocker and replace it.  That should let me wax the whole interior from the bottom and there are factory holes in the lower door frames i can use to wax the finished rockers.

 

I'm doing only absolutely necessary rust repair while doing construction.  I will have a whole bunch of body rust (like body mounts) to fix after the cab is assembled.

[Lockleaf]

Testing testing.

Edited January 8, 2021 by Lockleaf

[Lockleaf]

Ok, lots to update.  I usually host on datsun510.com but it has been down for updates since the new year. So I'm attempting to make use of the ratsun local hosting.  Thanks to the Ratsun leaders who made this possible, even though I am not good at using it.

 

 

I have now finished all the interior B pillar panels for the passenger side.  Lots of stitching on the upper piece (it was a bit of a mess) but overall I'm decently happy the result.  I also made a couple minor modifications to the panels above the door frame so they would interlock properly. 

 

 

The final panel to be finished was the surround for the seatbelt assembly.  That panel I tried and tried to build out of existing panels but that was total failure.  So I ended up scratch building something and it turned out pretty decent.  This is a piece of the outside of one of the trucks that I kept laying around.  It had like 1/4 inch of bog on it that I had to chisel off before use 😄 .  I made a template out of cardstock to make this panel.  I used a body hammer and a round bar "dolly" to round over all the edges of the opening.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Lockleaf]

All panels are in place.  Nothing is welded in, nor will it be until the door is completely installed, just in case I need to make changes (like moving door catch location or something).  I test fitted the seatbelt after all was installed, everything fits nicely.  It's snug at the bottom, but there is enough space that there shouldn't be any vibration noise.  It just isn't much space.

 

 

 

All bolted in

 

[Lockleaf]

That all took place by the 2nd of January.  With the door frame "finished" it was time to move on the next scary, I don't have any idea what I'm doing part.  The doors.

 

I knew I was keeping the door skins to reskin my new doors.  It takes two doors to make one new door, so I should have plenty of door skin left over, but I kept both in usable condition just in case.  To remove the skins, I ground away the edge of the skin on the front and bottom of the doors.  

 

 

You can see there is a fair amount of rust damage to the bottoms of the door bodies and skins, so repairs are in order for these.

 

 

I did not grind away the door skin at the rear of each door.  Instead I made some door skinning pliers.  I wanted the original edge of the door skin to act as a kind of "register" to put the door handle back in the same place relative to the edge of the door that it had been previously.

 

 

 

Nissan did me the favor of also spot welding the door skins around the edges, so that sucked to hassle with, but finally I got door skins removed. All that is left is removing the window frame.

 

 

All this is garbage that came out of this one door.  Some of it is grinding waste, but the huge majority is just crap inside the door.

 

[Lockleaf]

There are three spot welds on each side of the window frame, holding it in to the door.

 

 

 

Doors fully disassembled. Took about 3 to 3.5 hours to pull both totally apart.

 

 

[Lockleaf]

And now we cut.  I took a couple of loose measurements and made my first cuts, going for large cuts.        

 

Randomly setting the door body in the frame

 

 

I made some executive decisions about stuff.  Cut some things.  And voila, a "door".  I put in spacers around the door in between it and the frame to try and get it to where it needed to be, though overall, it wasn't an amazing fit.  I had also cut the entire top off the door body so I could put the door lock at the front of the door body, not the back.  I also picked some fights with the lower corner.  Because I changed the angle of the front door frame compared to a normal door, it was an odd fit.

 

 

 

A little fettling and its mostly welded up

 

 

Then I went to install the upper sill on the door.  And that is when something occurred to me.

[Lockleaf]

 

Wellllllllll.......shit.

 

This picture exaggerates how bad the fitment was, but regardless, it was bad.  With the front and rear doors measuring the same 23 7/8 inches from top to bottom, the rear door was sitting 1/2 to 5/8 inch lower than the front.  If I just moved the door vertically in the frame, the front lower corner had a gap you could drive a bus through.  The front latch also was no longer anywhere near lining up so I was afraid I might have to cut the whole latch section out and relocate it.  A great deal of sitting and staring and thinking was done.  In the end there was only one viable answer.  Violence.

 

 

So I took 4 nights worth of work and cut it all back apart.  Honestly though, I wasn't even angry.  That surprised me.  No frustration either.  Just a resigned sigh and I started cutting my weld apart.  Maybe I just wasn't surprised this happened.  I mean the first door frame failed like 6 times before I got anything that even began to approach functional, so why not play the same game here?  I'm not sure but still, surprised I wasn't massively pissed off by this.

 

That was two nights ago.  Last night I started trying to fit it again.  I spent a lot more time with spacers, coming to understand the fitment better.  And I think I do.  I had to reclock the whole front edge, and do even more to the corner.  To get all the pieces aligned with door sitting at the proper sill height, I ended up cutting the corner off completely, so I can clock the leading edge independent of the corner.  And here is where I am today.  I'm hoping I can fit the pieces back together and get them all tacked tonight.

 

 

 

 

silver strap marks out the proper door sill height.  I taped strips of cardboard to the bottom of the door body until it sat in the frame and aligned with that strap.

[BrothersGarage]

Sure, it would be nice to have something "done" but then you're just going to be bothered by it every time you see it, so might as well take the time to do it right. If you're frustrated too much then you're just going to get burnt though and end up never completing it because you'll be over it or resentful. Then the project dies / get sold off. 

Super props for digging back in and not beating yourself up because you're pushing yourself and your skills and didn't nail it perfectly first time. Killer job 👍

[EDM620]

Kudos to you for keeping up the fight as with a project of this scale there are bound to be some monumental obstacles.

[Noll]

On 1/8/2021 at 2:59 PM, Lockleaf said:

So I took 4 nights worth of work and cut it all back apart.  Honestly though, I wasn't even angry.  That surprised me.  No frustration either.  Just a resigned sigh and I started cutting my weld apart.

 

 

I feel you on that lol. Just the price of doing it right though, it's a pain at the time but will be worth it in the end.

[Lockleaf]

Today's episode is entitled "Blind confusion and a Cutoff Disc"

 

The basic premise:

 

This big damn hinge has to go behind that blue panel.

 

 

 

I cracked open the panel at seams where I could.  Look at all the prettyies I found inside the truck.

 

 

 

 

I realized there was no way that gigantic beast of a hinge unit was going to work on this smaller body.  Thats when the cutting started. 

 

 

 

Then it kept going as my friend and I kept trying to figure out how best to make this work.  Then we cut off too many reference points for aligning the hinges back together.  Crap.  So we spent a long time getting them aligned again and welding them together again.  I think we got it right, but we won't really know till we try to work the door when its all said and done.

 

5.5 hours of work from two people and we managed this.  And the hinge mods are only about 2/3 done.

 

 

  

Took these from 17 3/4 inch top to bottom down to around 13 inches top to bottom.

 

Cut some slashes in the truck and that is as far as we got.  Weatherproofing the hinge openings and making sure the door seals properly is going to take some work, but that will be figured out at a later date.

 

  

[Lockleaf]

Today's episode - "A Turning Point"

 

There were still a few modifications to be made to the hinges before they were finished.

 

First step, I needed new bolt points for the door side of the hinge as I had cut the others off in my attempts to make these as compact as possible.  You can see in the last photo of my last post that the bottom hinge has ears top and bottom, and the top hinge does not.  I cut those ears off both the top and the bottom and made it like this.

 

 

 

That is essentially the finished hinged.  Heres a comparison shot of the original to the modified.

 

 

All finished.  Now to test the hinge.

 

 

It was while filming that little demonstration that something occurred to me.  I had put the trapped nuts on the hinge side.  Meaning I would have to bolt the door on from inside the door.  You can see what I mean if you watch the video again.  Idiot.

 

So back to the cutting wheel.  I removed the trapped nut plates I had installed and replaced them with just some pass through plates.

 

 

Then I bolted everything together and tacked the nut plates to a single strip for now.

 

 

with the hinges at full open, the bolts are decently easy to access

 

 

Cut some holes in the door long the way.

 

 

If you look at where the front door edge is compared to the back edge of the front door, clearly the way I have assembled this has led to some alignment issues.  I have already cut off that door skin edge, removed a slice from the door body, and tacked the door skin edge back in place.  I cut a door skin off to about the correct length (a little short because I'm an idiot again).  There will still be some extra sheet metal finagling to do, but this is where it fits currently.  I have the skin just screwed to the door body.

 

 

 

At this point I used the skin to make sure my hinges didn't foul on the door skin and ghetto tacked the hinges to the door body for testing.  And in spite of that alignment issue on the door edges, the body lines are straight from the front door through the back of the cab.  Except for the upper door line on the back door.  I am pretty sure that that body line drops down as it approaches the front fender normally, and since this is the "front" of this door skin, the line drops away from the line on the cab itself.  That will have to be fixed as well.

 

Anyhow, here is where I've managed to get.  I'm not yet able to get the full 170 degree opening out of this hinge, but there are a couple other things I can try to gain some additional clearance.

 

Full open (currently)

 

First "stop" built in to hinge.  This is where the body side of the hinging stops, and the rest of the opening relies on the door side hinge.  (yes, its not easy to tell but these hinges are actually 2 hinges, one on the door side that is locked until the one on the body side is fully opened.  Body side offers about 90 degrees of open.  From 90-170 degrees is the door side hinge.)

 

Closed

 

 

Both Closed

 

 

For kicks and giggles I grabbed some trim panels and made some basic cuts to window frames

 

 

 

Its able to look like  truck on this side, but in reality there is so much more work to be done before this door is finished.  I have to put a lot of thought in to how I'm going to build hinge pockets in this door and how I'm going to make all of these giant openings weather proof.

 

Oh, and I have to build a new interior panel because

 

Edited January 27, 2021 by Lockleaf

[]2eDeYe]

In my line of work, I have learned that most of design work is redesign.

Way to persevere.

[Draker]

This is nuts... good work!!

[Lockleaf]

Today's Episode: "Hot pants with pockets?"

 

I'm at one of those stages where work is unimpressive in photos and yet takes LOADS of time to do.

 

I built this flange (it was in the last post)

 

And then I scabbed it in to the door.  It wasn't pretty.  Then I cut it loose and moved it to get better door swing.  Then did it again.  Then did it like 3 more times.  Thus all the ugly weld and general sketchiness.

 

In the end, I completely redid how wanted to approach this whole problem, so the hours I spent working on this were lessons in what not to bother with in the future.  I really didn't like that this was not adjustable on the door side.  Or how ugly it was.  However, with this ugly in place I was able to figure out all the tiny adjustments and modifications necessary to get full swing out of the hinge!  I had to modify the hinge, the mounting in the door frame on the body, and where I would mount the hinges to the door as well.  Multiple phases of small modifications, and it finally got me there.

 

 

Yes, I know she is a bit saggy and I am working on that but compared to before, this thing is open WAY farther.  Below is how far I had gotten before.  Much of this sag was just door flex, because of the chintzy way it was assembled.  It hangs much better even now, with the strength the pockets add to the door.

 

The next main step for me was to get the hinge pockets built in to the door.  These are very patched together unfortunately, because so much of this was done blind.  I could go back and cut stuff out again and not be quite so patchy, but I think that is even more work than what I am doing.

 

I basically just left the door closed and started piecing together each face of the pockets.  Now I have to finish welding up all the seams.

 

I replaced the super ugly with this sheet metal plate that can hold the trapped nut plates and allow for adjustment.

 

Then I cut individual pieces to make tops, bottoms, faces etc.

 

Here's the pockets all pieced together.

 

I leaned the door against my knees while I started doing some stitching inside the pockets.  And because I had it in my lap, I lit my crotch on fire.

 

I'm not a redhead, so this is the first time I've ever been called firecrotch!

 

It really wasn't bad though.  I shouted in surprise, and slapped the flames out (yes, there were full on flames🔥).  Idiot.  But no bbq rocky mountain oysters were made.

 

So here's the pockets, as they stand today.  I ran out of welding wire not long after heating my boys.  Ordered some more wire, but it won't be in until tomorrow or the day after.

 

 

Hinges actually fit deeper into the pockets.  They are not bolted in to the door in this pic.

 

I am fighting some issues with the bottom of the door popping outward that I'm not totally sure how to overcome.  But with the adjustability I built in to this, I'm hoping that will prove sufficient to get me good fitment in the end.

 

Hours of stitching this door together ahead, but I think that is my next major step.  I think there are 10-12 linear feet of weld that will be in this door.  And that is not including the welding I've done and cut back apart.  Following stitching the door together, I need to get the door guts working.  I have to figure out how to make the door handles functional, decide if I'm going power windows or manual, and then get those to fit the in door properly as well, as well as build the window frames.  I have a few different ideas about how to tackle the window itself, but I want glass.  I do not want plexiglas, etc.

 

Nose to the grindstone.  Next post will likely be the assembled door body.  Hopefully I can start on figuring out the new interior panel to hide the hinges soonish.

Edited February 4, 2021 by Lockleaf

[Lockleaf]

Today's episode - "You done messed up A-A-ron"

 

I've welded basically everything together.  Door body is all one piece.  I need to grind back the welds and touch up where necessary.  I've also been trying to get the door to hang level when fully open.  This has led me to realize I screwed up majorly way back in the beginning and skipped a step in leveling the hinge properly.  This likely means I have to modify the door pockets again....  If I get it totally correct this time, that will 3 or 4 times I have changed the hinge to door pockets.  I also cut apart and rebuilt the door body itself 3 times.  Assuming I get this right the first time on the other side, I can get the other side to this point in probably 12 hours.  That seems to be a running theme on this truck.  Learn everything on passenger side taking forever.  Divide passenger side time by 4 to get drivers side time 😄.

 

Here's the door body all welded up, just to have a pic to post.  Welds are pretty ugly at this point, but should clean up fine.

 

 

And in other news, I bought a massively hammered new toy that will sit around for who knows how long before I get to it.

 

 

 

 

Last generation International Travelall.  That is my best friend's sweet 72 GMC pulling the trailer.  His truck has is a 4x4 with 2004 Suburban LS swap in it, connected to a 700r4 and the stock transfer case.  He left the transfer case in its original place so he could use the stock driveshafts.  Trans length and motor length pushed the engine forward like 3 inches total, but it created no interference and works great.  We have a sweet 68 GMC body to put on hopefully in the spring that is patinaed and matching to give the truck a bump in the visual quality.

 

Traveall floor is mostly deleted.  No rear axle, front axle missing many bits.  It has the 345 CI engine, 4 speed manual trans, and a twin stick transfer case from Spicer.  Engine supposedly can run but haven't tested it.  Missing rear window and window regulator.  Long term plan is maybe a 2005+ Durango chassis/powertrain/floorpan swap.  Durango shares the same wheelbase of 119" and I'm not opposed to owning a late model hemi powered vehicle.  There are some manual trans options available as well for it, so that would be part of the plan.  I would just have to add like 6 inches of metal to the back of the floorpan as the traveall is longer behind the wheels than a durango.

 

Anywho, truck is still what I'm pushing forward on.  Just thought I would share my new yard art.

Edited March 3, 2021 by Lockleaf

[BrothersGarage]

Congrats on the new yard art!

[Lockleaf]

Today's episode - "Too burned out to be clever with a name"

 

The last two weeks have been hard to get out to the garage.  Not because I don't have the time, but because I am tired of failing on this door time after time.  So it took some real push to get out there and get over this hump.

 

Making the first cuts, tearing apart my "finished" work, was the hardest part.  Once I forced myself to make those cuts, I was able to better get back in to the construction groove.  So finally I just made myself get out there.

 

Originally I thought I could shim out the issue, but it proved to be quite a bit bigger than that.  first I modified the hinge so that the door was level when fully open.  I added a C too the bottom mount point and a new bolt point to that C.  It pushed the bottom of the hinge backward over an inch.  You can see the C in this pic, with some fresh weld on it.

 

 

Changing the hinge this way resulted in the door being level when open and drooping when closed.  So I cut the door pockets quite a bit and just started pulling and twisting until the door hung level when closed.  This opened up my hinge pockets and those had to be rebuilt.  

 

 

rebuild of pockets in progress.  They are not pretty in real life.  they might require some heavy slathering in seam seal.

 

Here's the door after this round of fun.

 

and a comparison shot

 

It really does look much much better, but it has been a difficult and tiresome task.  And truth be told, the door doesn't really fit the frame anywhere near as well as I would like.  I'm not saying I will, but after I build the drivers door, if that goes well, its possible I will buy two more doors and rebuild this door from scratch.  Only time will tell.

 

One issue is the door has ended up narrower than I wanted it to be.  So it doesn't latch well.  To fix that (at least for now) I made a spacer for the catch.  I had extra catches laying around, so I used one of those.  It latches decently now at least.  Once painted, this modification will be invisible I think.

 

 

Being massively tired of the door and in an acceptable position to move on, I started figuring out the next issue.  The door frame has two big chunks cut completely out of it.  This makes the door frame very flexible. It moves a pretty fair amount every time I move the door, it flexes with the hinge.  So to reinforce that I decided to make a slip sleeve that fit over the remaining door lip and connected all the pieces together.

 

 

 

 

At the same time, I cut the lower panel behind the door frame completely out.  I had left it in place for reasons that no longer matter.  I had also cut the bottom loose from the top for reasons that no longer matter.  So I removed it and pieced it back together.

 

 

The slip sleeve door frame reinforcement was intended to be part of the new panel that would cover the hinges, so it was all one strong piece.

 

After determining I needed 1.5 inches to give the hinges enough clearance to function, I added some metal and cardboard trying to mock up what I would do.

 

 

 

Then decided to move forward with building them out of sheet.

 

 

   

 

With this setup, the seatbelt will still fit in the original hole in this panel.  A piece of angle will be welded to the floor pan for the panel to bolt to the.  A piece of angle will be welded to the back wall to bolt the back edge of the panel to.  The flat lip across the top will have two bolts in it as well. (or screws or whatever to make it look decent.  I'm making it bolt in so that the hinges can be removed.

 

I'm hoping that all those bolt points will do two things.  It will provide sufficient reinforcement to the door frame so it no longer flexes, and that it will provide plenty of strength for the seat belt.  I am sure I can get #2, but #1 may require further efforts on my part.

 

To install this panel, first you slip it over the door frame lip and tap it in to place, then bolt the rest in.

 

The original bottom bolt point for the non-retractor end of the seatbelt should still work,  I just had to build a notch out of this panel to provide complete clearance.

 

Now to figure out the bolting points/flanges, and to weld this thing up completely.

Edited March 3, 2021 by Lockleaf

[Lockleaf]

Today's Episode - "Awww nuts, deregulated!"

 

More panel progress.  It's not the most fun, but compared to that door/hinge job, this is paradise.  I'm more or less getting it right from the start, and it isn't taking WEEKS to get to a decent point.

 

I want this panel to bolt in across top bottom and back.  This may be overkill, but as this panel is psuedo structural (holding the seatbelt and reinforcing the door frame, I'm totally ok with that.

 

I built a flange and welded nuts to the back of it, then welded that to the back wall of the cab.  Then  did the same thing for the bottom of the panel.

 

 

 

For the top, I am trying to use tapered head screws, recessed in to the panel.  These screws will be visible, so I want them flush to the panel.

 

And I finished off the last little pieces of the interior panel.

 

 

Then the gas regulator on my MIG welder died.  So my welds went to crap.  So instead of welding this panel together, I had to abandon it for a few days. I ordered a new regulator but it hasn't arrived yet.

 

Instead I moved on to the driver's side finally.  Started grinding down welds I laid in place something like 3 years ago (maybe longer ago than that)?)

 

 

 

 

 

[EDM620]

On 2/3/2021 at 3:10 PM, Lockleaf said:

It really wasn't bad though.  I shouted in surprise, and slapped the flames out (yes, there were full on flames🔥).  Idiot.  But no bbq rocky mountain oysters were made.

Good thing you didn't have a Bic lighter in your pocket, or the boys would've left you in a big hurry!

[Lockleaf]

Got my new regulator.  Turns out I need a thread adapter.  Crap.

 

Nevermind.  Waste half an hour doing research only to discover that the adapter included with my regulator could be disassembled in to multiple adapters, one of which was what I needed.  Took about 5 seconds to put together correctly and I'm back in business.

Edited March 11, 2021 by Lockleaf