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Everything posted by Noll

  1. That's a handy tip for sure, will keep in mind for the future. In this case I'll be buying something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B07P6LFH7N/ref=ox_sc_act_image_5?smid=A1T9L47SOSLRWE&psc=1
  2. Still no bushings (maybe friday), so more misc stuff. made a shim for both rear tophats so there's not a gap between them and the strut body: Got the water drain tubes and air intake ducts in (don't mind the ugly paint, if it's not visible I didn't bother doing as good of a job): And threw the main bit of body harness in. This will probably come out again at least once, I just wanted to refresh myself on how it attached and make sure all was well. the bit that runs along the rocker I'll re-tape as it's pretty gross and visible. I've gotten lucky w
  3. Bushings still didn't show up today (grrr), so did what I could to prep by bolting the halfshafts to the diff and filling it up with 75w90 gear oil.
  4. Rest of the sound deadening done. Ran out right after doing the firewall, will need to get more for the doors when I do them. For those that have applied this stuff in the past (Noico brand, basically the same stuff as dynamat, fatmax, etc), is it alone enough for firewall insulation or will I want another layer of heat barrier stuff on top? Also dug out the vinyl kit I got for really cheap off a friend a while back to see what it contained, it has the transmission tunnel vinyl which is nice, I like the look of that over carpet. Bolts and tie rod ends ca
  5. Decided it would be easier to mount the tank up with the car the right way up, so there was no reason not to flip it back. A couple last pics before the flip: And back the right way up: Super basic strut mockup. Waiting on bushings then this can all go together for real. And spent a bunch of hours putting sound deadening in, have about half the car done. Will be putting some in the spare tire well and probably on the rear wheelaches if I don't run out, front floor/firewall is the bigger priority. Will aim to get the
  6. Indeed it is, did all the bends other than the 2 tight ones on the fuel lines where the barbs are by hand. it work hardens a bit if you need to adjust a bend substantially, but nothing unworkable. That's the hope, still some messy stuff to do (fix doors, couple hood patches, and then stripping/priming/filling/painting the whole exterior), but there will be a lot of just bolting on fresh parts which is nice 🙂 . The less nice is the amount of money I'm going to need to spend on all sorts of misc. stuff, rubber door/window gaskets, etc etc, but I'll cross that bridge when I come to it
  7. I'm pretty much stuck until I get the tank in good shape and on the car, so spent some time today stripping the rest of the rubber coating off of it. Ripped the old patch off, nothing untoward underneath so I guess there were just some pinholes or something? Other than some dents the bottom is in pretty good shape, there is one corner that seems to have some pinholes but that's not a big deal. The flange between the tank halves also has some rust, but it's all outside of the crimped join so it's just cosmetic.
  8. Seems like it would be super handy for casting small batches of stuff that needs to be strong. For any individual bits like that (where ABS isn't strong enough) I've had stuff printed in sintered nylon through Shapeways; super tough but takes a bit to ship. Thanks! It's not perfect by any means but way better than before and super satisfying to look at. Now I need to deal with the gas tank and run all the softlines before then finally flipping it back the right way up. I do have a potential lead on a tank that's in decent shape, waiting for the guy to have a look thru h
  9. Oh yeah, it has proved super handy over the years for all sorts of things. I'll be making all sorts of interior bits too when that time comes I'm sure. Hmm, I'll have to look into the lost-wax filament, that also seems really useful. --------------------------------- Rest of the brake/fuel stuff finally showed up, so got all the hardlines complete up to the rear of the engine bay. Got the handbrake stuff all bolted on too, as well as the front diff mount: Looks a whole lot better than not that long ago!
  10. Yeah, that's how I had it initially when I was going to print with the flexible filament, I oversized them slightly in the current iteration so that with heatshrink on the tube it'll be a tight clamp and have the bonus of a bit of deflection in the rubber of the heatshrink if needed.
  11. Rockauto order of the rest of the hardlines still hasn't showed up, so some more misc. stuff today. Made a basic fuel pump mount plate: It's nothing fancy, but will do the job and not flex. I opted to have the outlet be facing away from the hardlines, one way or another one end would have to make that bend by the inner wheelarch and this seemed the cleanest way (and lets me avoid putting a 90 in in place of the straight barb on the feed line). This is the rough line routing plan as of current, with an approximation of the tank, and a fuel filter (purple):
  12. bits printed successfully: Fitment is good, I did (after the pic) put a bit of adhesive on to ensure that these inner halves can't eventually slide forward or backwards, although I don't think this would be an issue. Sadly the rest of the hardline didn't show up today, but I was able to go get the barb fittings. This pic is a bit of a weird angle, the fitting isn't as close to the subframe rail as it may look (aka no danger of it rattling) and there's plenty of clearance after the barb before the spare tire well. That said, once I get the tank in and decide on how
  13. An older Robo 3D R1+, and was trying to print with 1.75mm ninjaflex for the rubber bits. Too much of a gap between the extruder gear and the hotend, even with a bit of brass tube I put in to try to act as a guide. It just wrapped around everything inside and got jammed up in the gears. For the abs stuff, just some cheap AMZ3D filament off Amazon, hasn't let me down yet.
  14. Thanks! Is sure is lol, I didn't do a perfect job by any means, but compared to how the car was when I started... It'll do a good job of protecting from rust with any luck 🙂 . ------------------------------------- Printed the revised rear fuel line bracket: And designed and am in the process of printing the transmission-tunnel mounts: I had to change plans a bit with these, the flexible filament I got ended up being TOO flexible for my printer to print even with modifications. I could get some less flexible stuff and try again, but that's 50$ an
  15. More little stuff today. Technoversions diff mount arrived, and test fitted. Had to do a little hammering because the exhaust-tubing bracket's thickness was enough to push the opposite edge of the mount out and cause it to hit the transmission tunnel before the bolt holes lined up. All fits nicely now though, I suppose that's a 260/280z specific issue due to the hangar location. The 3/8 tubing also showed up (the 5/16 and 3/16 will be here tomorrow despite being shipped from the same place), so I ran that. I'm currently printing V2 of my ABS mount, the curves in the tu
  16. Started on the designing/printing today, made up a mount block for the feed/return lines from ABS:
  17. Indeed it does, it's been a long time coming. That's good to know in a pinch haha. ------------------ After letting the epoxy cure for a few days, I put the rubber floor plugs in and sprayed a bunch of stonechip protection/sound deadening on today: It's not a perfect, run-free, exactly-as-factory finish, but looks half decent and a hell of a lot better than before: The brake/fuel lines and some other misc stuff should show up next week, so that will be the next job. In the meantime I'm going to design/3d-print a bun
  18. Some more done today, put the rear brakes back together. Had to adjust the handbrake to get the drums back on with the new shoes, it stops on a dime with the handbrake set as it is now though 🙂 . Also welded on a new bolt to where the junction block mounts, and ran the softline. It's not connected to anything yet though as the hardline on the body snapped off when taking it apart, and too far back for me to simply re-flare it and go (plus, the car uses bubble flares, which is annoying as my handy on-the-car flare tool is for inverted flares).
  19. Big headway on the Niva today! Bled the clutch, and decided to take it for a joyride offroad and across a couple streams. No brakes, but it did it like a champ. Fired right up on old gas and a battery that hadn't been charged in 2 years (I was amazed it was holding enough charge to crank the engine over), and only needed the choke for a minute before it would idle perfectly at ~500rpm. Restarts only took holding the key for a split second for it to fire right back up. Next up, brakes and rust repair I g
  20. Whoops, didn't see this until now. Yes, but not majorly; went out a while back and got the car properly lifted up to ground level on some boards (that took a whole day, hard to find solid places to jack from and had to dig a hole to get at the bottom of the rear axle lol). This is how it sits as of then. Need to wait for the field to dry as its a mudpit currently I'm sure with the spring melt, but hoping to get it out of there in a month or 2.
  21. Seam sealed and painted the shell today inside and out, pretty happy with the end result. The brush marks should even out as the epoxy cures, and I'll be spraying some sound deadening in the wheelwells and a couple other places to avoid tinniness. This half of the paint went farther than the first which was nice, was able to get all the interior done too: I also did some stuff to the gas tank while waiting on the seam sealer to dry, poured a bunch of heavy-duty cleaner in and a couple bolts and shook it around for a while. It di
  22. Stripped the bottom of the shell, and started on the painting. First coat was mostly just on/around seams, once this cures I'll apply seam sealer then do a 2nd coat on everything properly. I think I have enough paint to do all the underside and interior, but in order of priority I'll be painting the underside, the inside of the floorpans, and then the rest of the interior. If it comes to it I can always do the rest of the interior later, the high-foot-traffic spots are the most important for now for that extra strength (vs using just spraypaint).
  23. Painted some more stuff today, I think other than the fuel tank and the stuff I need to buy still (hardlines etc) that should be pretty much everything ready to go on once the underside of the shell is painted. I know I'm missing a couple of the brake line clamps but I'll make those when I assemble everything so I don't make ones for the wrong spots.
  24. Indeed! Happily yep, there's a good one (going off google reviews anyway) about 45 min from me: https://www.axleautomotiveinc.com/gas_tanks.php . They do CV axle rebuilds too apparently, so that's nice to know.
  25. Yeah, if I decide to pay to get it done that's definitely the plan, reducing the damage moisture can do just seems like a good idea. if I DIY, I'll see how much of the origional coating is left and decide. Yep, that'll be something I'll need to make sure not to do haha, just need to remember which way is the right way up. ----------------- Tank update. First up, good news, I poked around at the bottom with a metal rod and it seems to just be about ~4mm of sludge and crud as opposed to rust. Phew. Going to wait to hear back on a quote from a local radiator shop for clean
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