1976 datsun 710 (Mia)

[logiccreations]

its my first car you know? i dont want to give it up no matter how much trouble it brings but im moving to hermiston and dont have any way to take it with me til i get the money to fix it. so i guess if i havent sold it ill sign the title put it in the car and leave it somewhere in harney county so if in april it hasnt been sold then start looking

[flatcat19]

Bring it to hermiston. I'll fix the damned thing.

[Lockleaf]

You can do this. But since you have to rely on the help available on here, you need to be more systematic. These guys can vicariously fix this car, if you can follow their instructions and report back clearly.

 

Selling a 70s car over an ignition issue is a bit extreme. The system is a connect the dots game. Electricity draws the line that connects all the dots. You're job is to figure out at which dot the line stops. Irritatingly, it's written in invisible ink.

 

To start off, you need to understand some basics. Answer each of these questions directly, your answers will help us help you.

 

Do you know what a ballast resistor is?

Do you know what it looks like?

Do you know what points are, what they are for, how to gap them, and what "gapping" then means?

Can you read a wiring diagram?

Do you have one for your car?

If we asked you to, could you put together a list of how the power travels from the battery/charging system through to the very end of the ignition system?

 

Like mike and others have said, compression is meaningless to the ignition system. Fix one problem at a time. How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time.

[flatcat19]

Repairing his spark issue at this point would be made easier by just installing a matchbox.

 

He already threw away all of the old stuff and bought parts that were not meant for a points dizzy.

[KoHeartsGPA]

He can get one at any local JY for about $45....

[Draker]

Take come video.. post it to youtube and link it here. 

 

Or even a few pictures! help us, help you.

[Jester]

Best decision of the year!

 

STOP BEING AN ASSHOLE!   :rofl:  He wants to play Datsun too. 

 

LogicCreation: Keep at it, DON'T GIVE UP!!!! We'll get you through this. A couple words of advice;

Stop throwing shit away. Unless you are 100% sure it is shit, just set it aside.

You will need some pretty thick skin to hang here. Guys will ride you like a stollen schwinn one minute and offer you whatever you need the next minute. Just roll with it, stay humble and ask lots of questions. I would rather answer 100 stupid questions than see someone quit because they think they can't do it. Bullshit! You can too!

 

As much as it kills me to actually put this on the internet for EVERYONE to see........................................................................listen to Mike.   :fu:

[Lockleaf]

Repairing his spark issue at this point would be made easier by just installing a matchbox.

 

 

Not arguing at all.

 

Step one - help him understand what the system should look like.

 

Step two - figure out what it looks like now, what's there and what's missing.

 

Step three - point out the best ways to create a viable system from where it is now.

[KoHeartsGPA]

The floor is yours, gentleman....

[logiccreations]

 

 

You can do this. But since you have to rely on the help available on here, you need to be more systematic. These guys can vicariously fix this car, if you can follow their instructions and report back clearly. 

 

Selling a 70s car over an ignition issue is a bit extreme. The system is a connect the dots game. Electricity draws the line that connects all the dots. You're job is to figure out at which dot the line stops. Irritatingly, it's written in invisible ink. 

 

To start off, you need to understand some basics. Answer each of these questions directly, your answers will help us help you. 

 

Do you know what a ballast resistor is? 

Do you know what it looks like? 

Do you know what points are, what they are for, how to gap them, and what "gapping" then means? 

Can you read a wiring diagram?

Do you have one for your car? 

If we asked you to, could you put together a list of how the power travels from the battery/charging system through to the very end of the ignition system? 

 

Like mike and others have said, compression is meaningless to the ignition system. Fix one problem at a time. How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time. 

\

yes i know what a resistor looks like and what it does, the original system ran on 3 ohms and my new one does to.

gapping is setting the "gap" to a specific size in between the points, .20?

[logiccreations]

 

Posted Yesterday, 07:39 PM

Most people that do GM 1 wire alt swaps put them in the stock location. 

it was easiest to put on that side

[logiccreations]

 

OP BEING AN ASSHOLE!    :rofl:  He wants to play Datsun too. 

 

LogicCreation: Keep at it, DON'T GIVE UP!!!! We'll get you through this. A couple words of advice;

Stop throwing shit away. Unless you are 100% sure it is shit, just set it aside.

You will need some pretty thick skin to hang here. Guys will ride you like a stollen schwinn one minute and offer you whatever you need the next minute. Just roll with it, stay humble and ask lots of questions. I would rather answer 100 stupid questions than see someone quit because they think they can't do it. Bullshit! You can too!

 

As much as it kills me to actually put this on the internet for EVERYONE to see........................................................................listen to Mike.    :fu:

thank you

[logiccreations]

[logiccreations]

[Jester]

Car doesn't run, hmm, what shall I do now? I know, I'll paint it!  :rofl:  :rofl:

 

You crack me up dude.

[logiccreations]

i painted it last year,thought you all wanted pics

 

 

i found a truck with a 305 and a 4spd tho should i try that? as a swap

[datzenmike]

i found a truck with a 305 and a 4spd tho should i try that? as a swap

 

This isn't fixing your problem.... it's still throwing parts at the car.... still hoping something works. It's a form of denial. You ask questions, get good advice, don't follow it or follow up and move sideways at best, backwards at worst. 

[S30Jay]

L engines are very simple to troubleshoot.....kind of a perfect platform for learning. I suggest you resolve to face the challenge and learn to troubleshoot. You'll be better for it, and it's a good feeling when you figure it out.

 

Swapping in a completely different drivetrain will only add to your frustrations. I promise you that much.

 

Reality is if you cant figure out what's up with the L then a swap will be a bigger disaster.

 

Troubleshooting is just fact gathering. That's it. Figuring out what is working properly and what isn't.

 

Take it one step at a time and learn something in the process.

[logiccreations]

so far what ive found is that i have no spark however with a new coil, points and condenser, and wires i should. i started with making sure everything was hooked up-done, then i tested to see if i had power to the coil-yes, i gaped the new points-done, doing that i tried what mike said with the touching a ground to it to see if it sparked(off the ground not out the coil)-done, maybe i got a bad condenser its happened before. and the coil is running 3ohm. i honestly have no more ideas do you? and i did get a wiring diagram just for the ignition purposes.

[Draker]

If you replaced all that stuff... you'll get spark. If you're not getting spark, it's wired wrong. Good luck!

[Lockleaf]

So you have power at the coil.  Do you have power coming out of the coil?

[S30Jay]

I would start by checking for spark at the wire from the coil to distributor. You want to verify that it's physically leaving the coil, and also that it's making it through the wire to the distributor. This means checking at both ends.

 

It will be helpful to know exactly where you have spark and where you dont.

 

If it's not leaving the coil the problem will likely be wiring as Draker mentioned, or possibly something else on that end. Not distributor, points, condenser, etc.

 

If spark is making it into the distributor but not out the problem lies in there. I would also rule out the possibility of bad wires (open internally, high resistance) by verifying no spark at the spark plug wire connection at the cap. Check the wires with the ohm function on your meter. You should verify the condition of those despite them being new as quality control in aftermarket parts is all over the map.

I can't think of what the value range is supposed to be ATM as I haven't done this in awhile but I'm sure Mike or someone else will chime in.

 

Let me ask you though, did the current ignition setup work ever? Did you have spark before replacing the headgasket with this setup?

[logiccreations]

yes i did have spark before and it was this same setup thats why im having so many problems trying to figure this out

, and no spark out of the coil but power to and a good ground

[Lockleaf]

In any electrical system if you get power into a component but power does not come back out you've identified the malfunctioning component. It may not be the only one but by the diagnostics you said have been done the coil must be bad.

[logiccreations]

its new