logiccreations Posted April 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 so the dowel was in the head and i took the head to a new shop to get it fixed. should get it back in a few weeks Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 Get it fixed? What was broke? Quote Link to comment
bilzbobaggins Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 Why was the motor rebuilt? Wasn't this a spark issue? 1 Quote Link to comment
logiccreations Posted April 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2016 i thought the head went out so i bought a rebuild kit but when i got in there i found the reason it was given to me for free by the original owner... its a bad picture but those are the top and bottom rings(no lip on the bottom one) all 8 were seized inside the pistons. and i sent the head to get resurfaced. also yes i had a spark issue but i fixed that by making my own wires to and from the distributor, and buying a new coil, cap, wires, plugs, rotor, and points. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted April 2, 2016 Report Share Posted April 2, 2016 All that work because you didn't want to diagnose. That's a lot of money. Quote Link to comment
logiccreations Posted April 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2016 it was like $20? not much to spend on my first and favorite car Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted April 2, 2016 Report Share Posted April 2, 2016 That will work. I read your first few pages. Stuck rings should have been found during the compression test. Low compression, yes. Then wet test would have failed the rings if your compression tester was functioning properly. GL with round 2. Quote Link to comment
logiccreations Posted April 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2016 ill need the luck thx Quote Link to comment
S30Jay Posted April 2, 2016 Report Share Posted April 2, 2016 Well if nothing else you are alot more familiar with your car now. Things will only get easier from here. Please check the block for straightness, they do warp too. My Z engine block was off a bit and required machining.....it happens. Good luck. 1 Quote Link to comment
logiccreations Posted April 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 Ok so got the head worked got it all back together and had no compression... So I checked my valve lash I think that's what it's called, adjusted it and now I have 140psi on all four, now I just need to figure out the timing, I got the two light colored links on the marks and the distributor shaft where I thought it was suppose to go but it's 180 off after a few minutes of cranking it. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted April 19, 2016 Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 Roll to top dead center. Does the cam gear mark line up? Place #1 plug wire wherever rotor is pointing...Ass Ming the dist. is actually 180° out. Quote Link to comment
logiccreations Posted April 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 well i got it on the wrong tooth ill fix it tomarow Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted April 20, 2016 Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 One tooth won't cause it to be 180out. Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted April 20, 2016 Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 I think the oil pump drive spindle is a tooth off. Not 180 out, but off... yes. I could be wrong. Trying to read between the lines. Quote Link to comment
logiccreations Posted April 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 your probely right draker i have never seen what it looks like before Quote Link to comment
logiccreations Posted April 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 i was going off of the mikes post mabey i mest it up? Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted April 20, 2016 Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 New cap and rotor never hurts. But this could simply be the rotor is pointing between wires when the coil fires. Set engine to TDC #1 and take the distributor out by removing the two 10mm bolts on the base of the pedestal. Look down inside you should see... Notice there is a large and small half moon side. If you don't have this the oil pump/distributor drive spindle may be in wrong. No worries, it's an easy fix. This is what it should look like. If it's off a tooth... it's super obvious. Quote Link to comment
logiccreations Posted April 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 well yes mine was kinda in the middle so i set it to one and hoped it was right i dont have the saw tooth timming mark anymore so its been kinda hit and miss for tdc. tomarow ill fix it and then update the tread, hopefully with a video of it running Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted April 20, 2016 Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 You can find TDC other ways too. 1. Pull the valve cover, the first two cam lobs should be at 10 and 2 o'clock. 2. The timing mark on the cam sprocket should line up with the timing mark on the front cam tower. 3. Pull the #1 spark plug, put a screw driver in there. Turn the engine over by hand. Feel the piston come to the apex of the stroke. This is either TDC or 180 out. Quote Link to comment
logiccreations Posted April 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 iv been using the screw driver one also a light and seeing when the piston hits top Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted April 20, 2016 Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 iv been using the screw driver one also a light and seeing when the piston hits top Do that with the valve cover off, you'll find TDC without a doubt! Quote Link to comment
logiccreations Posted April 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 ok so i got it to start and drive but the timming is very bad and it pops and backfires everywhere i go. Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted April 20, 2016 Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 Do you have a timing light? Or know someone who does? Quote Link to comment
logiccreations Posted April 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 no timming mark unfortunately Quote Link to comment
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