dscottdatsun Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 Should I be concerned? When I start my engine the oil pressure reads at 25 psi, while driving or under throttle it reads at 50+ psi. After the engine has warmed up and run a little while at idle the pressure only reads at around 12 psi. I'm running 20w-50 Gibbs Racing Break-In Oil Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 On a well worn engine the oil bleeds out past the bearings faster than the idle speed can pump it in, so the pressure drops or is less. As the engine RPMs rise this switches around and there is more oil available and the pressure rises also. When it gets to around 50-60 PSI the pressure pushes the relief spring back and oil is recirculated inside the pump and the pressure stabilizes. My old and well worn 300,000 Km L20B ran a hot idle oil pressure of 17 PSI, plenty for those RPMs and the very little load on it. What I did was get a KA oil pump from a D-21 Hardbody. This is a high output oil pump with 13% longer internal rotors. With no other change the hot idle pressure went up to 29 PSI! I run these oil pumps on all my L or Z series engines. New rod and main bearings will also bring the pressure up but if the engine runs well and you don't plan a re-build... look into the KA oil pump for some piece of mind. 2 Quote Link to comment
nad015 Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 Have you got a part number for the ka24 oil pump? Quote Link to comment
harlow426@msn.com Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 On a well worn engine the oil bleeds out past the bearings faster than the idle speed can pump it in, so the pressure drops or is less. As the engine RPMs rise this switches around and there is more oil available and the pressure rises also. When it gets to around 50-60 PSI the pressure pushes the relief spring back and oil is recirculated inside the pump and the pressure stabilizes. My old and well worn 300,000 Km L20B ran a hot idle oil pressure of 17 PSI, plenty for those RPMs and the very little load on it. What I did was get a KA oil pump from a D-21 Hardbody. This is a high output oil pump with 13% longer internal rotors. With no other change the hot idle pressure went up to 29 PSI! I run these oil pumps on all my L or Z series engines. New rod and main bearings will also bring the pressure up but if the engine runs well and you don't plan a re-build... look into the KA oil pump for some piece of mind. GOOD TIP!! Putting one on my GOOD z22 b-4 it goes in this week. Glad I read this b-4 I dropped in in the hole. I already feel better. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
harlow426@msn.com Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 Have you got a part number for the ka24 oil pump? A newbie great! I see you are in australia.....one of the few climates that 20-50 should b used in. I would't use 20-50 in western washington.....dunno where ridgefield is. wherz my atlas? It is important 2 match viscosity with your climate temp.....too thick not good @ start/warm-up & robs power(windage). I'd appreciate that part # as well. Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 15010-40F00 08/94-01/96 15010-86G00 01/96 and on Oil pump part #'s. gasket part # 15066-21000 I looked these up for a hard body truck. Quote Link to comment
harlow426@msn.com Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 Wow that was fast!....just stepped out to have a smoke and a quick slug/snail patrol in my garden. Need taillights/emblems/markers/bump for your 1200? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 Sorry buying and selling in Classifieds only. Or send private message. 15010-40F00 08/94-01/9615010-86G00 01/96 and on Oil pump part #'s. gasket part # 15066-21000 I looked these up for a hard body truck. Confirmed 15010-40F00 '90-'96 KA24E truck 15010-86G00 '96-'97 KA24E 15010-3S500 '98-'01 KA24DE truck (truck has external oil pump) 15010-40F00 '89-'90 S13 (240sx) KA24E only (KA24DE has internal oil pump) All internal, can't tell if mounted on engine. Beware if buying. Know what to look for and check! This is an ordinary oil pump. Rotors are well down inside the pump body... High volume KA pump. Rotor is above edge of oil inlet hole. Do not accept anything else! About $100 or more at Nissan but watch out for auto supply stores as they could just hand you a 'universal' oil pump or could be miss-labled or in wrong box. There are billions of old Hardbodys out there... just go get one. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 Those pumps are often referred to as the "turbo" pump, because before the KA existed, the L28 Turbo was the only engine equipped with a hig volume pump. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 It was rumored the LD28 had them also... they don't. Also the Z24i in the early Hardbody (NOT the 720 Z24i) but Unconfirmed. The Z24i does have a different internal rotor number from the earlier L and Z series rotor but I haven't taken one apart to see. The L28ET manual transmission uses the same oil pump as the later Z24i in the Hardbody... 15010-V0300 (may/may not be high volume) The L28ET automatic uses a different number for use with the oil cooler... 15010-S8000 (definitely high volume) Quote Link to comment
dscottdatsun Posted May 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 Ridgefield is just north of Vancouver, WA USA. 20W-50 was not my first choice of oil. But Gibbs' break in oil, as well as any other I could find, doesn't come in a 30W. My motor has just over a 1000 miles on it and couldn't put a synthetic in it yet. I have seen what happens to a fresh L20B when using todays off the shelf conventional oils and it ain't pretty. Quote Link to comment
scooter Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 Melling part numer m111' its an iron case vs aluminum. Thats lower than what mine was on 10-30 hot. Im runnin 15-5o joe gibbs and have 30 idling hot, and 50 the rest of the time. For clearance i had .0025- .0028 on the mains and .002 on the rods. I think you have oil bleeding off somewhere or your sucking air up your pickup. What did you have for bottom end clearances? Quote Link to comment
scooter Posted May 31, 2015 Report Share Posted May 31, 2015 I have also noticed some pumps have different length pressure relief springs, i had one that had near none at idle, and when i took the pump off, i checked the spring against one off a z22' and it was like a half inch shorter or something. So i bolted it back on with the longer spring and a few washers put in there for a lil extra measure and it had alot more pressure after that. Quote Link to comment
shacks510 Posted June 1, 2015 Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 My L16 with unknown miles idles at around 40psi, and about 60psi at rev. I never had an issue with it. Something wrong? I doubt there's anything modified since it's just a stock block. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 1, 2015 Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 You can't change idle oil pressure with shims. The spring and relief is to prevent over pressure. Below it's setting the valve should be closed. At low RPM the pump isn't turning fast enough to move enough oil. Pressure can't build because it is bleeding past all the bearings, oil jets and cam faster than it's produced. The relief 'valve' is a small piston in a cylinder with a spring under it. Part way down the cylinder is an opening back to the pump inlet. When the engine revs high enough to push more oil than what's leaking past the bearings the pressure rises. When it's able to compress the spring back far enough the piston uncovers the opening and oil passes out and back to the inlet and pressure stabilizes. Adding shims will only increase the pressure when revved up. Your spring may have been broken or someone messed with it. The pressure relief valve was possibly open slightly. It shouldn't be. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 1, 2015 Report Share Posted June 1, 2015 I had a pressure relief valve stick. Piece of casting jammed in it. The pressure spiked on the highway and split the oil filter from it's base. So those pumps can make serious pressure!!! Quote Link to comment
harlow426@msn.com Posted June 5, 2015 Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 ok....the pump on my 79 280zx motor would b high volume like the preferred ka pump? L2.8 auto, non-turbo, electronic ign, german copy fuel injection(good system). Motor going into B#3 in the next 12 hours....anybody? Those pumps are often referred to as the "turbo" pump, because before the KA existed, the L28 Turbo was the only engine equipped with a hig volume pump. It was rumored the LD28 had them also... they don't. Also the Z24i in the early Hardbody (NOT the 720 Z24i) but Unconfirmed. The Z24i does have a different internal rotor number from the earlier L and Z series rotor but I haven't taken one apart to see. The L28ET manual transmission uses the same oil pump as the later Z24i in the Hardbody... 15010-V0300 (may/may not be high volume) The L28ET automatic uses a different number for use with the oil cooler... 15010-S8000 (definitely high volume) Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 6, 2015 Report Share Posted June 6, 2015 Only the TURBO engine got this high volume pump. Not sure if the manual did but the automatic did for sure. If getting a high volume pump get the D21 Hardbody ones from either KA24E or KA24DE. Probably cheaper because it doesn't have the turbo word connected to it. If anything is 'turbo' add 30% to the cost. :lol: 1 Quote Link to comment
harlow426@msn.com Posted June 6, 2015 Report Share Posted June 6, 2015 Only the TURBO engine got this high volume pump. Not sure if the manual did but the automatic did for sure. If getting a high volume pump get the D21 Hardbody ones from either KA24E or KA24DE. Probably cheaper because it doesn't have the turbo word connected to it. If anything is 'turbo' add 30% to the cost. :lol: Darn...would of saved me some time b-4 Canby. Guess I'll just go with the good stock one 4 now. Thanks 4 the clarification! Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted September 8, 2015 Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 Older thread, sorry for revival.... Read through and It's a bit confusing........ I have an L28E that I'm swapping into my S13 240SX. This engine will be getting new bearing and all new gaskets. It will be abused. I'm curious if the KA24E oil pump from a 240sx will be an upgrade over the NON-TURBO L28E ? Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted September 8, 2015 Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 It should be yes. Ka is match to turbo L oil pump, so your logic works. Have you shoehorned this ridiculous engine in there at all yet? I want to see how it fits Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted September 8, 2015 Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 It should be yes. Ka is match to turbo L oil pump, so your logic works. Have you shoehorned this ridiculous engine in there at all yet? I want to see how it fits thanks for the fast reply. It's actually an easy fit. You use the R32 Skyline engine crossmember, Z car rubber isolators, and the stock engine brackets on the block. Also using the stock L series longtail trans it quite literally a bolt-in affair. Small modification to the down pipe to clear the steering rack and small relocation of a hole on the trans xmember and it's that easy! I'll be going carb'd for simplicity and cool factor. Pics will be up as soon as i find an R32 engine xmember.......... Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted September 8, 2015 Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 Oops, also.... Is there a difference in D21 / S13 SOHC KA oil pumps? Mine is from an S13 KA, if that makes any difference. Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted September 8, 2015 Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 Sign ka pumps all work. Truck vs 240 doesn't matter. And the that that is bolt in is great.:) Quote Link to comment
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