Let's try this again; flatcat's 521

[flatcat19]

tell us aboot your stress?

 

 

Did I mention that Sergio is a fucktard?

 

 

So I loosened the radiator to get at the cable for the hood. But the bolts I took out were all different sizes and none of them correct. 

Someone told me 8x1.25. Went to Home Depot and bought 4 matching bolts. I also brought my tap/die set home. 

 

So I start threading the bolts through the radiator-every one of them got stuck 4 threads in. Tap handle won't fit so I decide to remove radiator. 

Radiator out; I was able to tap all the holes properly. Progress. 

 

On the initial drive home with this she was running warm to hot. When I got home there was no pressure. Replaced the radiator cap the next day. 

It ran cooler, but was still a bit too warm. I bought a thermostat today on a whim. I'm glad I did. 

 

When I had the radiator out, I was able to see into the thermostat housing...um, something was missing. ARGH!!!

 

I also noticed something else while here...alternator wasn't inline with crank/water pump. 

Remove the front bolt...3/16" thick, no nut to hold the back of it. Back nut and bolt were loose as well. 

I'm just going to get a long bolt to go all the way through. Also the adjustment bracket is broken. No biggie-but not stoked. 

 

Would not having a thermostat keep it running hot like that?

Would running the through bolt on the alt be a problem? 

 

Also looking at this... Any one have one/heard of problems with one? 

http://www.futofab.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=48:datsun-adjustable-tc-rods&catid=23&Itemid=79

[flatcat19]

I took no pics. 

 

Covered in coolant; filled with rage. 

[laotsu]

I thought no thermo meant it ran colder

 

I seem to recall good things being said aboot the turnbuckle alt support

 

I run a single long bolt on my alt with no problems (one end of the alt bosses is threaded)

 

I have a spare bracket you could have, but I am 300 Miles from it for the next seven weeks and my GF wouldn't have the first idea of how to find it in the garage.

[laotsu]

found this interesting theory online

 

In some cases, removing the thermostat makes the coolant circulate too fast. In this case, the engine may not truly overheat, but some spots may not get cooled enough and have problems.

 

not sure if BS or not

[flatcat19]

I run a single long bolt on my alt with no problems (one end of the alt bosses is threaded)

 

Mine is hollow? all the way through with a squishy sleeve in the back. The sleeve would suck it's self to the mount when tightened. 

 

 

 

 

When tightened...Sergio. 

[flatcat19]

 

 

What is that spade? It was not plugged in when I got to it.

[uberkevin]

Maaaaybe ground?

 

I never seen that on any of my alts.

[flatcat19]

I'm not going to worry about it for now. It worked without it-maybe it will keep working if I leave it alone. 

 

 

The electrical needs a lot of work on this thing. Due time. Baby steps.

 

 

 

 

 

Move back, fucker. Need a 521 buddy.  

Or just come over tomorrow to help with my clutch hydraulic replacement. 

[MicroMachinery]

I wouldn't "F" with it. I think I remember there being a spade that I never use. The case should be grounded.

[flatcat19]

I wouldn't "F" with it. I think I remember there being a spade that I never use. The case should be grounded.

 

 

That wasn't happening either. Lol. 

[uberkevin]

You know this I'm sure but my trucks biggest problem about a year ago was bad grounds.. also think I even added two. One in the bay and another at the tail lights making that two back there..

 

Get an IR alt if that's not what that is.

The jump is easy. I'll text you the picture of mine if need be.. also gets rid of that big ugly ass regulator box...

 

Thats what that's called right..

Sorry... getting off work and bored.. sitting in the work truck for a 2 hour trip back to oly...

I work in Portland and beyond most every night..

 

New job time.. Shit Career time!!

[Charlie69]

 

Did I mention that Sergio is a fucktard?

 

 

So I loosened the radiator to get at the cable for the hood. But the bolts I took out were all different sizes and none of them correct. 

Someone told me 8x1.25. Went to Home Depot and bought 4 matching bolts. I also brought my tap/die set home. 

 

So I start threading the bolts through the radiator-every one of them got stuck 4 threads in. Tap handle won't fit so I decide to remove radiator. 

Radiator out; I was able to tap all the holes properly. Progress. 

 

On the initial drive home with this she was running warm to hot. When I got home there was no pressure. Replaced the radiator cap the next day. 

It ran cooler, but was still a bit too warm. I bought a thermostat today on a whim. I'm glad I did. 

 

When I had the radiator out, I was able to see into the thermostat housing...um, something was missing. ARGH!!!

 

I also noticed something else while here...alternator wasn't inline with crank/water pump. 

Remove the front bolt...3/16" thick, no nut to hold the back of it. Back nut and bolt were loose as well. 

I'm just going to get a long bolt to go all the way through. Also the adjustment bracket is broken. No biggie-but not stoked. 

 

Would not having a thermostat keep it running hot like that?

Would running the through bolt on the alt be a problem? 

 

Also looking at this... Any one have one/heard of problems with one? 

http://www.futofab.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=48:datsun-adjustable-tc-rods&catid=23&Itemid=79

 

All the 521s I have worked on in the last 30 plus years  have had SAE National Fine threaded bolts and nuts in the USA. The 620s and newer are metric.

 

My understanding of the thermostat is 2 fold

1 it stays closed to help engine warm up

2 it slows the flow of water thru the radiator to allow the coolant to cool down while passing thru the radiator

[Charlie69]

 

 

 

What is that spade? It was not plugged in when I got to it.

 

 

 

That is a Mitsubishi 50 amp alternator, leave the terminal alone.  I agree with Uberkevin get an IR (internally regulated) alternator and do away with the regulator.

 

Go to this link on page 95 to see the alternator terminal identification.

 

http://kb-kbh.dk/shipslib/el_ombord/alternatorhandbook_ocr.pdf

[jrock4224]

You know this I'm sure but my trucks biggest problem about a year ago was bad grounds.. also think I even added two. One in the bay and another at the tail lights making that two back there..

 

Get an IR alt if that's not what that is.

The jump is easy. I'll text you the picture of mine if need be.. also gets rid of that big ugly ass regulator box...

 

Thats what that's called right..

Sorry... getting off work and bored.. sitting in the work truck for a 2 hour trip back to oly...

I work in Portland and beyond most every night..

 

New job time.. Shit Career time!!

 

explains why your lights act funny brake lights yes ... running lights "maybe?"

[bananahamuck]

The bolts not being tight and nuts falling off is kinda a "thing" with L motor alternators if you drive them alot..  If you are talking about hollow bracket as in it's a welded steel bracket NOT case iron one,,, i wouldn't run just one bolt all the way through,, it will never tighten correctly.

 

 

Shaky motor is shaky ,,, yo.

[flatcat19]

The bolts not being tight and nuts falling off is kinda a "thing" with L motor alternators..  If you are talking about hollow bracket as in it's a welded steel bracket NOT case iron one,,, i wouldn't run just one bolt all the way through,, it will never tighten correctly.

It is a steel bracket.

 

I'm not concerned about needing to tighten the bolt.

It's just that the Duck Whisperer gave no fucks to do it properly.

 

 

Makes me wonder what else is amiss.

He said motor is a fresh rebuild. I better get my L18 ready quickly!!!

[MicroMachinery]

Loc-tite, yo.

[maltese]

Man, I'd have a hard time adjusting to using SAE bolts instead of metric. I stock piled metric stuff, from my Toyota builds.

 

Truck looks good Keith. I'm jelly.

 

Loc-tyte, yo.

[flatcat19]

Man, I'd have a hard time adjusting to using SAE bolts instead of metric. I stock piled metric stuff, from my Toyota builds.

Truck looks good Keith. I'm jelly.

 

Turning Japanese, one bolt at a time.

 

Thanks, man. I'm getting there.

 

 

Fingers crossed that I'll be driving it to work tomorrow.

[jrock4224]

The bolts not being tight and nuts falling off is kinda a "thing" with L motor alternators if you drive them alot..  If you are talking about hollow bracket as in it's a welded steel bracket NOT case iron one,,, i wouldn't run just one bolt all the way through,, it will never tighten correctly.

 

 

Shaky motor is shaky ,,, yo.

 

my alt has loosed two bolts and broke one of the block at two separate occasion s

[datsunfreak]

I can tell you from personal experience, many times over, not having a thermostat will make it run hot. The coolant flows through the radiator too quickly to cool off. 

 

Also check to make sure there's no sludge in the bottom of the radiator. Also a common cause of "moderate" overheating, usually on sustained freeway drives. 

[flatcat19]

I can tell you from personal experience, many times over, not having a thermostat will make it run hot. The coolant flows through the radiator too quickly to cool off. 

 

Also check to make sure there's no sludge in the bottom of the radiator. Also a common cause of "moderate" overheating, usually on sustained freeway drives. 

 

 

That was my exact thought. 

 

 

When I removed radiator I just pulled lower hose. Clean coolant came out-quickly. 

Filled with water while holding outlets. Quickly flowed out with no sign of debris. 

[datsunfreak]

Filled with water while holding outlets. Quickly flowed out with no sign of debris. 

 

This is a very good thing.   :thumbup:

[flatcat19]

I'll be back out under the hood when it cools down just a little bit more. 

 

 

Tonight's tasks:

install alt, belt, rad, shroud. 

remove thermostat housing and install new t-stat and gasket. 

fill with coolant. run. 

 

wire up 620 corner markers. 

 

test drive?

[datzenmike]

I can tell you from personal experience, many times over, not having a thermostat will make it run hot. The coolant flows through the radiator too quickly to cool off. 

 

 

 

I've heard the same thing but sounds wrong to me. The rad radiates heat. How fast the water is traveling has no effect on this. It will remove less heat but from a larger volume of water rather that lots of heat from a smaller volume of water. The amount of BTUs removed will be the same.