emceefarlane Posted November 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 It's been a long time since I have used one of those types of pumps as the primary source of fuel pressure. I usually use them to feed a mechanical pump or in the case of my two 1970's Chevy trucks, to prime the system after they sit for a while (the fuel mysteriously drains back into the tank, don't know why). If you continue to have problems with that solenoid style pump, you may just want to upgrade to a Bosch gerotor style pump or a Carter vane style pump. The problem with these two is that they make a lot of noise, so I use custom mountings to isolate the noise from the body. But this just opens a can of worms as you would need to add a pressure regulator and maybe even a return line to get the best performance. Didn't you find a stock style mechanical pump? I would use that and eliminate these problems altogether. no - gave up on the prospect of sorting a mechanical pump replacement long ago this one isn't too noisy once it gets going - while it's priming it's a bit loud but after that it sorts itself out. i'm going to mount it on some rubber sheeting but the stuff i had spare was too thick and made it fowl on the brake lines 1 Quote Link to comment
emceefarlane Posted November 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2015 Some progress. Ended up having to use the spare pump - the other one must have burnt out slightly or something. Plenty of fuel coming through now. Car stopped idling Swapped the Nikki carby over with a spare i had and it ran fine but with flat spots Took the first carby apart and it was all blocked up with scale etc Cleaned it all out, put new gaskets through it and a new plunger using stuff out of a rebuild kit i bought off ebay a couple of years ago Swapped carbys back over - seems okay for now, touch wood. The original MG manifold i bought before i got the SU's had the wrong stud orientation that i was unable to change. bought another second hand manifold. cleaned up the SU's a bit and bolted them on 2 Quote Link to comment
emceefarlane Posted November 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2015 okay so i chucked some registration on so i could drive it for a couple of days before the all datsun day here in adelaide went to check the brake lights and they didn't work, checked all other lights and they don't work either. i know i blew a fuse accidentally while trying to rewire the brake switch by putting active to earth, but i've replaced that. looking at the wiring diagram there seems to be only those four fuses for the whole car - all of which aren't blown. have i blown something else up when i dicked around with brake switch thing? the car starts and runs etc but no lights *Edit* - all sorted now - 2 of the new fuses i put in didn't appear blown but had no continuity 2 Quote Link to comment
windowless66 Posted November 25, 2015 Report Share Posted November 25, 2015 Good to hear you got it sorted! Hope your away from those fires ;) 1 Quote Link to comment
emceefarlane Posted December 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2015 wasted a bit of time on the weekend with some tint looks better than the painted on orange which was a pain to remove 2 Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted December 23, 2015 Report Share Posted December 23, 2015 Reference window sealing' I have resealed leaky window seals with a simple method. Get an XACTO or similar hobby knife and a good supply of really sharp blades. Cut into the carcas of what's left of the original windscreen gasket at a 45 decree angle down to the glass [i know 40 plus year old rubber] and toss the trash! Get some white distilled vinegar and thoroughly scrub the glass and the remaining rubber surface, an old soft bristle toothbrush is your best friend, so scrub the hell out of the glass and rubber. The reason for this is the RTV outgasses acetic acid [vinegar] as it cures, so you are both priming the remaining vestiges of the rubber gasket and doing a most excelent scrubbing of the glass surface of the windshield. Next buy a tube of Black RTV! Be sure it is the real RTV! Carefully fill the trimmed rubber to glass gap with the RTV [i searched and found the the original GE RTV was best] and smooth the surface with your choice of wet finger or an expired credit card. Go away for the rest of the day! Next day look carefully at the glass to rubber joint. With what ever knife blades you have left, carefully carve an exact straight line connecting the corners of your windscreen . Scrape the exposed RTV from your glass. It will look like the original gasket but much newer. Sorry, fot the dull portions of the original gasket you might have to carefully apply a "skin coat" with prior white vinegar pre-wash. Good luck! I resealed my 1967RL411 window this way many years ago and it is leak proof to this day. 4 Quote Link to comment
emceefarlane Posted February 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 back together over the weekend having a problem with the noise from the tappets at the moment. going to try an oil and filter change and maybe some additive. is there anything else i can do? what oil filters are available in AUS? mine is the cartridge type top mounted on the motor, wouldn't mind if there was sealed replacement available thanks 3 Quote Link to comment
difrangia Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 You should be able to change to later spin-on filter by changing the aluminum adapter that bolts to the crankcase. Some have a built-in pressure relief valve, but your engine should have a relief valve on the lower left rear of the crankcase. I've actually got three relief valves in our 63/64 motore. The third one is in the oil pump which is from a J13 motore. I'm sure that you've set the valve clearance?? Steve 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted February 2, 2016 Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 Valve lash is extremely important not only for cam and lifter life, but for noise. They have to be just right to run silent. 2 Quote Link to comment
emceefarlane Posted February 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2016 i hadn't set the valve clearance and i had also never done it before - a lot of learning this weekend so this is the way i did it which i *think* is correct my feeler guages are imperial 1/1000" and it took me ages to work out which shims to use to get .35mm or .014" (the answer was the 10" and the 4") - not so straight forward at first. i used the "exhaust opening/intake closing" method first while it was warm and the second time while it was cold the cylinder order is '1 3 4 2" the valves go (from front to back) exhaust intake intake exhaust exhaust intake intake exhaust cylinder 1 with the exhaust just beginning to open, adjusted the intake clearance by loosening the locking nut and adjusting the screw until the shims had the same amount of resistance as pulling a piece of paper out from between two glossy magazines. Then as the intake was just beginning to close on cylinder one adjusted the exhaust as above. then cylinder 2, then 3, then 4 this has made no difference to the tappet noise and actually made it worse the first time i set the clearances while it was hot. *NB is seems to only be 1 or 2 valves that are excessively noisy and maybe 1 or 2 more that would be bearable i the bad two weren't as bad - the others seem fine is this the correct way to do it // is there anything else i can do? 1 Quote Link to comment
emceefarlane Posted February 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2016 Turns out this is not an E1 head at all - had a closer look at the casting numbers etc and it's stamped with MOWOG which i now know is extended for MG. after googling all the numbers it appears as though it is either a metropolitan nash head (i'm pretty sure they weren't an australian delivered car so this seems unlikely) the other option is MGA but there's meant to be a 15 or 16 etc stamped at the back of the block which in this case there is not - only other possibility i can see is a few hundred MGA heads were cast without the numbers stamped on them (this also seems unlikely) Anyone else have experience with this? i'll post the numbers later on 2 Quote Link to comment
emceefarlane Posted February 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2016 PATENT NO 585394 (maybe 686394) 10M2 MOWOG A MC21625 2 11G216 this is where the number is meant to be stamped 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted February 28, 2016 Report Share Posted February 28, 2016 Is that the head that was on the E1 block? MOWOG certainly is British, it stands for Morris Wolsley MG. I don't know, because I've neve had an E1 apart, but I wonder if they use the MOWOG casting numbers. Either way, there are a ton of hotrod parts for MG's. 2 Quote Link to comment
emceefarlane Posted March 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2016 lots of news determined the head is a 1500 Morris or similar motor by speaking with a local MG guru Took the off the rocker assembly resurfaced all the rockers with an upside down grinder and a flapper disc to get rid of all the indents found one of the adjusters didn't have an oil galley in it at all - major cause of noise what they're meant to look like found it's easiest for me to adjust the clearance with the spark plugs out - while rotating the engine watch for the exhaust valve to open, then the intake, then when the piston is at TDC of the compression cycle adjust both valve clearances for that cylinder changed the oil filter cartridge with a RYCO - will have to check the part number but i found it on this forum. the seals for where the housing mounts to the casting on the block were all too small so i had to reuse the existing which was a little bit munted but at least it sealed change of oil and put in some 'lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer' - this stuff is like treakle test fitted some rims - not sure i like either 2 Quote Link to comment
emceefarlane Posted March 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2016 just missed out on these rims by $40 and i am spewing i think they would have looked wild *poorly photoshopped on the truck 3 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 12, 2016 Report Share Posted March 12, 2016 Yeah, that adjuster was certainly the cause of your noise. Wheels... I prefer the stock wheels with hubcaps. These trucks are definitely not hotrods so bigger tires aren't needed. If you want to run steel wheels, but with increased diameter and width, the stock Toyota 4x4 wheels (1979-1985) look nice and they even have nubs for hub cap mounting. 2 Quote Link to comment
emceefarlane Posted April 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 for the wheels i think i've landed on the centres from landcruiser style split rims welded into a new outer to look something like these http://s2.photobucket.com/user/brmd56/media/DSCN2385.jpg.html http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/steel-wheels-split-rims.354600/ still spewing i missed out on the simmons meshies but We'll see how i go. I've also been looking through here to find any information on window rubber - the drivers and passenger door glass weather strip that sits in the channel at the top of the door. has anyone successfully used anything for this yet? all my searches reveal no I've been to the local rubber suppliers here and have a few samples of things but they all require cutting and modification and in the end probably wont work very well 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted April 12, 2016 Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 for the wheels i think i've landed on the centres from landcruiser style split rims welded into a new outer to look something like these http://s2.photobucket.com/user/brmd56/media/DSCN2385.jpg.html http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/steel-wheels-split-rims.354600/ still spewing i missed out on the simmons meshies but We'll see how i go. I've also been looking through here to find any information on window rubber - the drivers and passenger door glass weather strip that sits in the channel at the top of the door. has anyone successfully used anything for this yet? all my searches reveal no I've been to the local rubber suppliers here and have a few samples of things but they all require cutting and modification and in the end probably wont work very well Datsun Roadster window channel felt, it takes two orders to do a complete 320 truck(both door windows), there are other types, but they take work/mods to install. http://www.datsunroadster.com/PIC_PAGES/NEW_PARTS_PIC_PAGES/802-24.htm 1 Quote Link to comment
emceefarlane Posted April 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2016 Datsun Roadster window channel felt, it takes two orders to do a complete 320 truck(both door windows), there are other types, but they take work/mods to install. http://www.datsunroadster.com/PIC_PAGES/NEW_PARTS_PIC_PAGES/802-24.htm thanks wayno i will need to replace those eventually but for now i was meaning this strip here - reading back i didn't type it as well as i thought those pics are of the passenger side which isn't too bad but the drivers side is shagged from me hanging my arm out the window Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted April 13, 2016 Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 OK, I had to cut a piece of out of another vehicle weather strip that was way complicated, I went to the "Chevs of the 40s" and looked at all there selection and found a piece with something I could use in the middle of it. Here is a link to my thread, what you are asking about is on page 12 of this thread. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/24157-waynos-1964-datsun-nl320/ I could find nothing the proper "T" shape that had the reach to touch the window, the roadster stuff didn't work as I tried that. thanks wayno i will need to replace those eventually but for now i was meaning this strip here - reading back i didn't type it as well as i thought those pics are of the passenger side which isn't too bad but the drivers side is shagged from me hanging my arm out the window 2 Quote Link to comment
emceefarlane Posted April 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2016 OK, I had to cut a piece of out of another vehicle weather strip that was way complicated, I went to the "Chevs of the 40s" and looked at all there selection and found a piece with something I could use in the middle of it. Here is a link to my thread, what you are asking about is on page 12 of this thread. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/24157-waynos-1964-datsun-nl320/ I could find nothing the proper "T" shape that had the reach to touch the window, the roadster stuff didn't work as I tried that. Thanks Wayno I'll give this a go but i'm not sure how prolific Chevs were in AUS - i might have to try o/s ebay etc at this stage it looks like the closest thing that will work is from a Mazda 323 but with a lot of cutting involved, then i'm not sure it will reach the glass like the problem you had Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted April 14, 2016 Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 See on the right hand side, the tall "L" shape of this piece of weather stripping, that is what I used, the rest I threw away. Here is the invoice with the part number. I had to be very careful to cut it very straight down the side to make the biggest "L" piece I could get, I was unable to find a piece with a "Tee" shape that had the reach, so I settled on this, I am positive there is something out there that will work unmodified, but I was unable to find it. Thanks Wayno I'll give this a go but i'm not sure how prolific Chevs were in AUS - i might have to try o/s ebay etc at this stage it looks like the closest thing that will work is from a Mazda 323 but with a lot of cutting involved, then i'm not sure it will reach the glass like the problem you had 2 Quote Link to comment
emceefarlane Posted May 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 did some procrastinating and installed a CD player and some speakers 3 Quote Link to comment
delariva Posted May 17, 2016 Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 Nice work. Those speaker boxes look good. 1 Quote Link to comment
emceefarlane Posted June 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2016 pic from the weekend 3 Quote Link to comment
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