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emceefarlane

Jake's 320 Build

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It's been a long time since I have used one of those types of pumps as the primary source of fuel pressure. I usually use them to feed a mechanical pump or in the case of my two 1970's Chevy trucks, to prime the system after they sit for a while (the fuel mysteriously drains back into the tank, don't know why).

 

If you continue to have problems with that solenoid style pump, you may just want to upgrade to a Bosch gerotor style pump or a Carter vane style pump. The problem with these two is that they make a lot of noise, so I use custom mountings to isolate the noise from the body. But this just opens a can of worms as you would need to add a pressure regulator and maybe even a return line to get the best performance.

 

Didn't you find a stock style mechanical pump? I would use that and eliminate these problems altogether.

 

no - gave up on the prospect of sorting a mechanical pump replacement long ago

 

this one isn't too noisy once it gets going - while it's priming it's a bit loud but after that it sorts itself out. i'm going to mount it on some rubber sheeting but the stuff i had spare was too thick and made it fowl on the brake lines

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Some progress.

 

Ended up having to use the spare pump - the other one must have burnt out slightly or something.

 

Plenty of fuel coming through now.

 

Car stopped idling 

 

Swapped the Nikki carby over with a spare i had and it ran fine but with flat spots

 

Took the first carby apart and it was all blocked up with scale etc

 

Cleaned it all out, put new gaskets through it and a new plunger using stuff out of a rebuild kit i bought off ebay a couple of years ago

 

Swapped carbys back over - seems okay for now, touch wood.

 

 

 

The original MG manifold i bought before i got the SU's had the wrong stud orientation that i was unable to change. bought another second hand manifold. cleaned up the SU's a bit and bolted them on

 

bzii0.jpg

 

5ous5j.jpg

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okay so i chucked some registration on so i could drive it for a couple of days before the all datsun day here in adelaide

 

went to check the brake lights and they didn't work, checked all other lights and they don't work either. i know i blew a fuse accidentally while trying to rewire the brake switch by putting active to earth, but i've replaced that. looking at the wiring diagram there seems to be only those four fuses for the whole car - all of which aren't blown. have i blown something else up when i dicked around with brake switch thing? the car starts and runs etc but no lights

 

 

*Edit* - all sorted now - 2 of the new fuses i put in didn't appear blown but had no continuity

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wasted a bit of time on the weekend with some tint

 

16gwgf7.jpg

 

f53psg.jpg

 

looks better than the painted on orange which was a pain to remove

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Reference window sealing'  I have resealed leaky window seals with a simple method.  Get an XACTO or similar hobby knife and a good supply of really sharp blades.  Cut into the carcas of what's left of the original windscreen gasket at a 45 decree angle down to the glass [i know 40 plus year old rubber] and toss the trash!  Get some white distilled vinegar and thoroughly scrub the glass and the remaining rubber surface, an old soft bristle toothbrush is your best friend, so scrub the hell out of the glass and rubber.  The reason for this is the RTV outgasses acetic acid [vinegar] as it cures, so you are both priming the remaining vestiges of the rubber gasket and doing a most excelent scrubbing of the glass surface of the windshield.  Next buy a tube of Black RTV!  Be sure it is the real RTV!  Carefully fill the trimmed rubber to glass gap with the RTV [i searched and found the the original GE RTV was best] and smooth the surface with your choice of wet finger or an expired credit card.  Go away for the rest of the day!  Next day look carefully at the glass to rubber joint.  With what ever knife blades you have left, carefully carve an exact straight line connecting the corners of your windscreen .  Scrape the exposed RTV from your glass.  It will look like the original gasket but much newer.  Sorry, fot the dull portions of the original gasket you might have to carefully apply a "skin coat" with prior white vinegar pre-wash.  Good luck!  I resealed my 1967RL411 window this way many years ago and it is leak proof to this day.

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back together over the weekend

 

57b12.jpg

 

having a problem with the noise from the tappets at the moment. going to try an oil and filter change and maybe some additive. is there anything else i can do?

 

what oil filters are available in AUS? mine is the cartridge type top mounted on the motor, wouldn't mind if there was sealed replacement available

 

thanks

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You should be able to change to later spin-on filter by changing the aluminum adapter that bolts to the crankcase. Some have a built-in pressure relief valve, but your engine should have a relief valve on the lower left rear of the crankcase. I've actually got three relief valves in our 63/64 motore. The third one is in the oil pump which is from a J13 motore.

 

I'm sure that you've set the valve clearance??

 

Steve

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Valve lash is extremely important not only for cam and lifter life, but for noise. They have to be just right to run silent.

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i hadn't set the valve clearance and i had also never done it before - a lot of learning this weekend

 

so this is the way i did it which i *think* is correct

 

my feeler guages are imperial 1/1000" and it took me ages to work out which shims to use to get .35mm or .014" (the answer was the 10" and the 4") - not so straight forward at first.

 

i used the "exhaust opening/intake closing" method

 

first while it was warm and the second time while it was cold

the cylinder order is '1 3 4 2" the valves go (from front to back) exhaust intake intake exhaust exhaust intake intake exhaust

 

cylinder 1 with the exhaust just beginning to open, adjusted the intake clearance by loosening the locking nut and adjusting the screw until the shims had the same amount of resistance as pulling a piece of paper out from between two glossy magazines. Then as the intake was just beginning to close on cylinder one adjusted the exhaust as above. then cylinder 2, then 3, then 4

 

this has made no difference to the tappet noise and actually made it worse the first time i set the clearances while it was hot. *NB is seems to only be 1 or 2 valves that are excessively noisy and maybe 1 or 2 more that would be bearable i the bad two weren't as bad - the others seem fine

 

is this the correct way to do it // is there anything else i can do?

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1441wsk.jpg

 

 

 

 

Turns out this is not an E1 head at all - had a closer look at the casting numbers etc and it's stamped with MOWOG which i now know is extended for MG. after googling all the numbers it appears as though it is either a metropolitan nash head (i'm pretty sure they weren't an australian delivered car so this seems unlikely) the other option is MGA but there's meant to be a 15 or 16 etc stamped at the back of the block which in this case there is not - only other possibility i can see is a few hundred MGA heads were cast without the numbers stamped on them (this also seems unlikely)

 

Anyone else have experience with this? i'll post the numbers later on

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Is that the head that was on the E1 block? MOWOG certainly is British, it stands for Morris Wolsley MG.

 

I don't know, because I've neve had an E1 apart, but I wonder if they use the MOWOG casting numbers. Either way, there are a ton of hotrod parts for MG's.

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lots of news

 

determined the head is a 1500 Morris or similar motor by speaking with a local MG guru

 

Took the off the rocker assembly

 

2w1xmx3.jpg

 

resurfaced all the rockers with an upside down grinder and a flapper disc to get rid of all the indents

 

found one of the adjusters didn't have an oil galley in it at all - major cause of noise

 

2zfj03q.jpg

 

what they're meant to look like 

 

2ec1y1i.jpg

 

found it's easiest for me to adjust the clearance with the spark plugs out - while rotating the engine watch for the exhaust valve to open, then the intake, then when the piston is at TDC of the compression cycle adjust both valve clearances for that cylinder

 

changed the oil filter cartridge with a RYCO - will have to check the part number but i found it on this forum. the seals for where the housing mounts to the casting on the block were all too small so i had to reuse the existing which was a little bit munted but at least it sealed

 

change of oil and put in some 'lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer' - this stuff is like treakle

 

test fitted some rims - not sure i like either

 

2ly53lh.jpg

 

2qlwz7r.jpg

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just missed out on these rims by $40 and i am spewing

 

i think they would have looked wild

 

*poorly photoshopped on the truck

2isxfmr.jpg

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Yeah, that adjuster was certainly the cause of your noise.

 

Wheels... I prefer the stock wheels with hubcaps. These trucks are definitely not hotrods so bigger tires aren't needed. If you want to run steel wheels, but with increased diameter and width, the stock Toyota 4x4 wheels (1979-1985) look nice and they even have nubs for hub cap mounting.

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for the wheels i think i've landed on the centres from landcruiser style split rims welded into a new outer to look something like these

 

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/brmd56/media/DSCN2385.jpg.html

 

http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/steel-wheels-split-rims.354600/

 

still spewing i missed out on the simmons meshies but

 

We'll see how i go.

 

I've also been looking through here to find any information on window rubber - the drivers and passenger door glass weather strip that sits in the channel at the top of the door. has anyone successfully used anything for this yet? all my searches reveal no

I've been to the local rubber suppliers here and have a few samples of things but they all require cutting and modification and in the end probably wont work very well

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for the wheels i think i've landed on the centres from landcruiser style split rims welded into a new outer to look something like these

 

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/brmd56/media/DSCN2385.jpg.html

 

http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/steel-wheels-split-rims.354600/

 

still spewing i missed out on the simmons meshies but

 

We'll see how i go.

 

I've also been looking through here to find any information on window rubber - the drivers and passenger door glass weather strip that sits in the channel at the top of the door. has anyone successfully used anything for this yet? all my searches reveal no

I've been to the local rubber suppliers here and have a few samples of things but they all require cutting and modification and in the end probably wont work very well

Datsun Roadster window channel felt, it takes two orders to do a complete 320 truck(both door windows), there are other types, but they take work/mods to install.

http://www.datsunroadster.com/PIC_PAGES/NEW_PARTS_PIC_PAGES/802-24.htm

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Datsun Roadster window channel felt, it takes two orders to do a complete 320 truck(both door windows), there are other types, but they take work/mods to install.

http://www.datsunroadster.com/PIC_PAGES/NEW_PARTS_PIC_PAGES/802-24.htm

 

thanks wayno

 

i will need to replace those eventually but for now i was meaning this strip here - reading back i didn't type it as well as i thought

 

2n0my2o.jpg

 

5xlesm.jpg

 

those pics are of the passenger side which isn't too bad but the drivers side is shagged from me hanging my arm out the window

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OK, I had to cut a piece of out of another vehicle weather strip that was way complicated, I went to the "Chevs of the 40s" and looked at all there selection and found a piece with something I could use in the middle of it.

Here is a link to my thread, what you are asking about is on page 12 of this thread.

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/24157-waynos-1964-datsun-nl320/

I could find nothing the proper "T" shape that had the reach to touch the window, the roadster stuff didn't work as I tried that.

thanks wayno

 

i will need to replace those eventually but for now i was meaning this strip here - reading back i didn't type it as well as i thought

 

2n0my2o.jpg

 

5xlesm.jpg

 

those pics are of the passenger side which isn't too bad but the drivers side is shagged from me hanging my arm out the window

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OK, I had to cut a piece of out of another vehicle weather strip that was way complicated, I went to the "Chevs of the 40s" and looked at all there selection and found a piece with something I could use in the middle of it.

Here is a link to my thread, what you are asking about is on page 12 of this thread.

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/24157-waynos-1964-datsun-nl320/

I could find nothing the proper "T" shape that had the reach to touch the window, the roadster stuff didn't work as I tried that.

 

Thanks Wayno

 

I'll give this a go but i'm not sure how prolific Chevs were in AUS - i might have to try o/s ebay etc

 

at this stage it looks like the closest thing that will work is from a Mazda 323 but with a lot of cutting involved, then i'm not sure it will reach the glass like the problem you had

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See on the right hand side, the tall "L" shape of this piece of weather stripping, that is what I used, the rest I threw away.

DSCN5542.JPG

Here is the invoice with the part number.

DSCN5544.JPG

I had to be very careful to cut it very straight down the side to make the biggest "L" piece I could get, I was unable to find a piece with a "Tee" shape that had the reach, so I settled on this, I am positive there is something out there that will work unmodified, but I was unable to find it.

Thanks Wayno

 

I'll give this a go but i'm not sure how prolific Chevs were in AUS - i might have to try o/s ebay etc

 

at this stage it looks like the closest thing that will work is from a Mazda 323 but with a lot of cutting involved, then i'm not sure it will reach the glass like the problem you had

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