emceefarlane Posted June 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2015 door trims on carpet is in I have sprayed the dash with this, hopefully it turns out alright. http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/wrinkleplus/ 3 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted June 2, 2015 Report Share Posted June 2, 2015 That should work fine. Door panels look good. 2 Quote Link to comment
emceefarlane Posted June 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2015 Thanks Stoffregen! this damn shelf took me an hour to put back in because of the added thickness of kick panel and carpet dash is in, paint turned out pretty good. Looks a little bit glittery from some angles but ah well More of an idea of the texture all that's left is the fiddly bits and to bleed the brakes - then should be back on the road while i sort out the head and MG manifold etc also is there a way to change the topic title to just a more general build thread? cheers 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted June 4, 2015 Report Share Posted June 4, 2015 I like how the dash came out. 2 Quote Link to comment
emceefarlane Posted June 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 finished off the dash and put the seat in 2 Quote Link to comment
finney Posted June 14, 2015 Report Share Posted June 14, 2015 looks very tidy 2 Quote Link to comment
emceefarlane Posted June 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2015 having trouble with the fuel pump at the moment sourced an L series pump and tried to swap the arms over as mentioned in this thread http://forums.nicoclub.com/l-series-fuel-pump-on-e1-t375572.html the longer arm is the L one and the short is the E. from the hole for the locator pin back - the E1 arm isn't long enough to reach the spindle from the diaphragm inside the pump so unless you can get E1 or J13 arms that are longer from the locator hole back or L series pumps with a larger diameter diaphragm spindle base - in my case this has not worked. does anyone know of any other possible mods that will work? (local parts supplier does not have a listing for 320 520 or 521 fuel pumps) gasket kits? trying to avoid having to go electric 1 Quote Link to comment
Conner Posted June 19, 2015 Report Share Posted June 19, 2015 Thanks for posting about this problem. I was planning to do the same arm swap--just haven't done it yet. So you put the E-series fuel pump arm into the L-series pump with the spring and pin and what happened? Was it just loose or what? What brand of E fuel pump did you start with? What brand L-series pump? Mine was a Nikki and I have reason to believe that it was actually a J13 fuel pump that had been swapped onto my engine. Here is a pic of the (I believe) J13 fuel pump side by side with the L-series pump, whiuch is a Kyosan. I was planning to swap the smaller arm with the larger one on the new pump. I wonder if it may be possible to swap the diaphram out of the L-series pump into your orginal fuel pump. Rebuild it yourself with those parts. Not sure if the parts interchange, but that may be the next step if this arm issue can't be resolved. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted June 19, 2015 Report Share Posted June 19, 2015 WHy not try using the lower portion of the old pump with the new pump upper portion? 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 Not sure if this will help. I have purchased several items from this ebay seller and he is honest. http://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-520-521-620-J13-FUEL-PUMP-DIAPHRAGM-JAPAN-NOS-a-/221795402130?hash=item33a4094192 Quote Link to comment
emceefarlane Posted June 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 thanks charlie, might have to try that next. connor - the E arm doesn't go far back enough into the L pump to connect to spindle from the diaphragm. if i were you i'd do what stoffregen said and take the top assembly off the L pump and put it on your E as they look the same. my E and L pump look completely different - not the same diameter by a long shot. i'll post pics when not on mobile 1 Quote Link to comment
difrangia Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 How many bolts hold the top and bottom castings together on that older non-L pump; five or six? I'm thinking that the earlier E1 had the pump with five bolts and had a priming ring on the side toward the cab. I have a good one and a bad one of these. Also thinking that the later E1 and J13 had the pump with six bolts and no primer ring. I'm thinking of getting an old J-Series pump and an L-Series and doing a little experimenting. If the L-Series will bolt up to the E and J-Series engine, a special lever just may be made that will allow the use of the L pump on the earlier motores. Imagine cutting the levers in half in the middle of the pin hole and splicing the longer pump side half of the L pump with the shorter engine half of the older pump. That's for visualization, I wouldn't want to take off on a trip with a pump lever spliced like that, but it could be spliced away from the pivot hole if the levers were solid metal or a new hybrid lever could be developed from virgin metal that would accomplish the adaptation. Steve 2 Quote Link to comment
difrangia Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 In referring back to the photos above, I can see that the levers are stamped and formed or riveted laminate construction. I'm still interested in playing around with this to have a backup. There are probably enough E and J-Series engines still running to justify coming up with a hybrid lever. Main issue is: Does the L-Series pump bolt up to the E & J-Series engines ?? 1 Quote Link to comment
Conner Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 Both the Nikki pump I pulled off my E1 (which I believe is a J-series fuel pump) and the new L-series fuel pump I bought have five screws on the very top. Four around the perimeter and one in the center. They also each have six screws that connect the base of the fuel pump to the upper section. I can also tell you that the fuel pump spacer that came off my E-engine absolutely does fit the L-series fuel pump. And the new fuel pump gaskets I bought (Beck Arnley #039-2008) also fit perfectly on both those pumps. In other words, the bolt pattern and flange shape/size is the same. So I have every reason to believe that if the arm were the correct size you could bolt up the L-series pump to the E engine. Here's another problem. New L-series fuel pumps are not as readily available as they once were. I image rebuild kits will be out there for a while, but it isn't as easy to get the L-series pump anymore. 1 Quote Link to comment
difrangia Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 Just for reference, this is the E1 pump with the priming ring. Base housing and the pump casting are joined with only five screws and one screw holds the top cover on. Is this pump completely interchangable with the J13 pump? Steve 1 Quote Link to comment
emceefarlane Posted June 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2015 connor - looks like your E pump is new enough so you have both options. either swap the top section of your L pump onto your E or swap the arms over my E and L are different L on left E on right difrangia - i've read in another thread that the E and J pumps are the same for 320 520 and 521's. and as Connor has said the L pump does mount to the E block. i have a pump with a primer lever and one without and both came off of E's. as for the hybrid lever - fabrication is not my strong point. the L arm is solid and the E arm is made from three separate pieces connected with the rivets/studs. the L pump has a slightly lower pivot point than the E as well the one-way valves and their gaskets are exactly the same in the L and E and can be interchanged. 1 Quote Link to comment
finney Posted June 21, 2015 Report Share Posted June 21, 2015 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FUEL-PUMP-NEW-FIT-DATSUN-411-520-521-620-710-J1200-J1300-J1500-1600-ENGINE-/271908226172?hash=item3f4efe447c 1 Quote Link to comment
difrangia Posted June 21, 2015 Report Share Posted June 21, 2015 Almost enough Jamesons. Forgot to hook the pics on. Little bitty feller compared to the J and L pumps. Steve 3 Quote Link to comment
difrangia Posted June 21, 2015 Report Share Posted June 21, 2015 I;m wondering if the diaphram from the L pump can be trimmed down an if there's enough area to punch the five holes to use on the five-screw E1 pump? If that will fly, the central rod may require modification also. This fuel pump fix thing has been on my mind for a while. I'm not particularly fond of electric pumps. Steve 1 Quote Link to comment
Conner Posted June 21, 2015 Report Share Posted June 21, 2015 Thanks for posting pics of the original 5-screw/tinman-style E-1 fuel pump with the primer. I've only seen a couple of pics of that one before and not with that kind of detail. 2 Quote Link to comment
emceefarlane Posted June 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2015 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FUEL-PUMP-NEW-FIT-DATSUN-411-520-521-620-710-J1200-J1300-J1500-1600-ENGINE-/271908226172?hash=item3f4efe447c have you bought or used one similar to this? the arm looks completely different - it could still work and just connect with a different part of the cam. would probably want to test on a pulled down engine though first rather than suck it and see and do some damage 1 Quote Link to comment
emceefarlane Posted July 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2015 i've given up Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted July 9, 2015 Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 Considering that motor is a licensed copy of a BMC/Leyland motor, I did a search for BMC mechanical fuel pump, and I got a few promising results. Looks like a Mini pump would work. http://www.classicminispares.co.nz/store/pumps-hoses-and-carbs/fuel-pump-mechanical-998-non-genuine https://www.google.com/search?q=BMC+mechanical+fuel+pump&biw=1680&bih=916&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=gJqeVcqtGsXtoATEzq-gBg&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg#imgrc=ff5IoPNq_r45iM%3A I wouldn't go and tamper with the lever. They are heat treated. If you made one and the heat treating wasn't spot on, it could wear out the drive lobe on the cam. 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted July 9, 2015 Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 Even a BMC diesel lift pump looks like it would work. http://www.asap-supplies.com/marine/fuel-lift-pumps/fuel-lift-pump-bmc-1500-and-bmc-1800-131040 2 Quote Link to comment
emceefarlane Posted July 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2015 Considering that motor is a licensed copy of a BMC/Leyland motor, I did a search for BMC mechanical fuel pump, and I got a few promising results. Looks like a Mini pump would work. http://www.classicminispares.co.nz/store/pumps-hoses-and-carbs/fuel-pump-mechanical-998-non-genuine https://www.google.com/search?q=BMC+mechanical+fuel+pump&biw=1680&bih=916&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=gJqeVcqtGsXtoATEzq-gBg&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg#imgrc=ff5IoPNq_r45iM%3A I wouldn't go and tamper with the lever. They are heat treated. If you made one and the heat treating wasn't spot on, it could wear out the drive lobe on the cam. The first thing i tried was the MG specialists in adelaide - they said they all came with electric fuel pumps from factory so i assumed it was a dead end Even a BMC diesel lift pump looks like it would work. http://www.asap-supplies.com/marine/fuel-lift-pumps/fuel-lift-pump-bmc-1500-and-bmc-1800-131040 This does look like it would work, not sure if there would be a difference between diesel/petrol I would try that out if i wasn't already $80 invested in fuel pumps/switches etc and hadn't asked a machine shop to manufacture a plate to put in place of the diaphragm in the mechanical pump so i can leave it bolted there 1 Quote Link to comment
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