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emceefarlane

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About emceefarlane

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    320

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  1. The flanges could be bigger and the diameter at each end a little larger (the blue hands kit has tapered bushes for this exact reason) but overall they will work in a pinch
  2. emceefarlane

    V320

    never seen the 60HP badge mounted so far forwards on the fender. it normally sits directly below the datsun1200 badge
  3. 320 newb: the upper control arm bush (part 54519-08700) is normally a 1 piece bush with a flange - so if you're looking at in profile it will look like a fat letter T. The blue hands kit has the flange as a separate part but it is required. The ones you removed had probably completely worn down the flange the tightening torque is listed as "14 -16.5m-kg" in the manual I cleaned my arms up a bit better and had a closer look - turns out they weren't welded on they just looked like the were so my question now is if you torque the part with the grease nipple in it (54507-08700) into the upper control arm (54533-04300) this means that that assembly is meant to move up and down on the threads of the spindle? (54538-04101) should the above be tightened the full way up the thread and "butt up" to the machined surface?
  4. forgot to mention tha in this post on nicoclub (the website is currently down) https://forums.nicoclub.com/running-on-a-budget-63-pl-320-t586738-60.html it looks as though the threads are different to the ones i have pictured above?
  5. Thanks jetattblue! i was a little nervous too but i'm pretty happy with how it turned out as well Okay so i'm in the process of changing the upper control arm bushings When i started thinking about this i was originally going to purchase replacement bushes from Mike at blue hands http://www.bluehandsinc.com/320520521620drum-urethane-uca-bushings.html but ended up losing my entire year to saving for a wedding Recently I came across a post on the datsun 320 owners fb page where another guy in aus had put fj45 landcruiser shackle bushings in I bought a set of Nolathane 47001 from ebay which were incorrect (i should have done more research) It looks as though the correct part is Nolathane 47004 which by my crude measurements should be correct but i'll have to reuse the steel sleeve from the old worn ones I've ordered them off ebay i'm just waiting for them to turn up You can only buy them in a set of 12 While i was i was poking around in there i decided to take the upper control arms off for a clean up and to change the rubber bush and refill with grease I took them off and it looks as though the end nuts have been welded on This would have been done by the previous owner - i'm assuming because of country roads and corrugations maybe they were vibrating loose My concern is that the manual asks for a torque setting for these - does anyone think this will be an issue? I do have a spare set of UCA's that aren't welded they'll just be a pain to get off the car It looks as though overall design of the UCA has the vertical movement traveling horizontally across the thread - is this correct? wouldn't this move the UCA horizontally across the threads each time they travel up and down meaning that the wheel would move towards the front/back of the car in the guards? Lastly where the UCA's bolt to the top of strut tower there are metal shims - if i put a few more shims in there to achieve some negative camber will this be detrimental to kingpin set up and maybe cause binding or something? Thanks
  6. Thanks! here's a few more pics taken by Nick Dunn https://www.nickdunnimages.com/ and Blake Heywood https://www.blakeheywood.com/
  7. Thanks! They are Speedstar (SSR) Randmasters 15 x 7 + 7 Running spacers on the rear to correct the offset
  8. The way i solved this issue was to bin the tacho i had and buy another one This is the one i couldn't get to work https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2-52mm-7-Color-LED-Car-Auto-Tachometer-Gauge-Meter-Pointer-Universal-Meter-AD-GA52RPM/32835941372.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.fe104c4dY5daaB i think ultimately it was too sensitive and would likely work fine on a newer car with a clean ECU output I bought this one which is physically much deeper and heavier https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2-52mm-Universal-Smoke-Lens-Auto-Tachometer-White-LED-0-8000-RPM-Gauge-Car-Meter/32870448864.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.fe104c4dY5daaB I think it has an inbuilt induction loop and basically worked straight away I had to buy a deeper mounting cup for this one which i haven't put on yet https://www.dx.com/p/52mm-single-dash-gauge-pod-mount-holder-for-car-motor-black-2015471#.XH8yP4gzaUk I also had an issue with my electric fuel pump I've cooked two of this type https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/goss-goss-low-pressure-fuel-pump---universal-ge239/340609.html and decided to upgrade to this type which so far has worked quite well https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/goss-goss-universal-fuel-pump/SPO4620127.html I also re-routed the fuel line so that the inline filter is mounted vertically and acts as a reservoir Here's a vid testing out the tacho And i also got married! and used it as the wedding car
  9. Okay so i started the negative ground conversion process from the start -leads were already wired pos to the starter and neg to the motor so i didn't need to do anything there -polarised the generator by arching it out -swapped the ignition/switch wire from the negative terminal of the coil to the positive -swapped the wire to the distributor from the positive terminal of the coil to the negative side of the coil Car runs fine Still can't get the tachometer to work As soon as the signal wire is connected it continually flashes and restarts veginning to wonder is it's the tacho itself now
  10. No older vehicle unfortunately Wayne Might see if i can chuck on one of my mates' cars to test it Found this searching today https://forums.nicoclub.com/coil-wireing-t593487.html Looks like i'm not the only one
  11. Wayno, I've had this car for around 10 years and this is only it's second battery. It definitely charges with the current generator and wiring setup somehow. The old AM radio that came with the truck worked fine until i unplugged the speaker from it. The new CD player i installed in the glove box and wired negative ground has been working for the last 3 ish years with the antenna plugged in with no issues. The amp i installed for the speakers is also wired negative ground. The electric fuel pump i installed is also wired negative ground. The negative terminal of the battery 100% is connected with a metal braid to the engine So i've got a negative ground truck still running a positive ground set up somehow? I tried unplugging the antenna last night to check if the tacho would work but it made no difference I also ran the engine up to temp and then swapped the wires on the coil over from the current set up which is + to the distributor and power from the ignition to - terminal After i'd swapped them the seemed to idle okay but would backfire through the exhaust when the engine was revved Also tested the tacho with this configuration but it still flashed and wanted to restart
  12. I'll try both the radio and the resistor trick Tacho powered from 6v batteries in series Coil is wired up with positive from the ignition going to the negative side of the coil The positive side of the coil goes to the points of the distributor I tried testing if this was wired correctly last night by switching polarity and checking if i was getting a positive reading on my multi-meter - however i got a negative reading both ways. I endedd up with a boot when it arced out to my hand,through me and then out my other hand on the key. i closed the roller door after that Truck generator and regulator Parts truck alternator & no regulator
  13. can post pics when i'm at work tomorrow
  14. pretty sure it's a generator? looks original & doesn't look like any alternator i've seen before and it still has the external voltage regulator. i have a parts truck here that has an alternator from a suzuki and it has had the regulator removed so i guess mine is still a generator yes not 100 percent sure what the difference is tho
  15. Can anyone think of a reason why i can't this tachometer to work? https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/bvPHYFrj I've wired it as per the diagram and while trying to fault find i hooked it straight to the car battery for power so there's no possible interference from any other wiring it illuminates and starts fine while the car is off but as soon as the car is running it wants to constantly restart itself (it flashes and you can feel the motor in it clicking). this happens regardless of whether the signal wire is connected to the coil or not. i thought it might be a problem with the voltage it's getting from the battery while it's running so i tested it on my hilux while it's running and it's fine. i bought one of these last night in the hope that the capacitors would smooth out the voltage signal https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/eccsL2t but i got impatient and bought 2 6v batteries to run in series to power the tacho after testing today with the 6v batteries the tachometer starts fine and only flashes and wants to restart when the signal wire is connected to the negative terminal if the coil i did some googling and i looks like the negative side of the coil normally goes to the distributor? that's not the case in my 320 as the positive side of the coil goes straight to the dizzy i hooked the signal wire to the positive side of the coil and the same thing happens i believe the car has been converted to negative ground previously because the negative cable from the battery bolts straight to the motor and the cd player etc i have installed all work fine sorry if this is a mess but it's hard to explain
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