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emceefarlane

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About emceefarlane

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Australia
  • Cars
    320
  1. emceefarlane

    Jake's 320 Build

    Okay so i started the negative ground conversion process from the start -leads were already wired pos to the starter and neg to the motor so i didn't need to do anything there -polarised the generator by arching it out -swapped the ignition/switch wire from the negative terminal of the coil to the positive -swapped the wire to the distributor from the positive terminal of the coil to the negative side of the coil Car runs fine Still can't get the tachometer to work As soon as the signal wire is connected it continually flashes and restarts veginning to wonder is it's the tacho itself now
  2. emceefarlane

    Jake's 320 Build

    No older vehicle unfortunately Wayne Might see if i can chuck on one of my mates' cars to test it Found this searching today https://forums.nicoclub.com/coil-wireing-t593487.html Looks like i'm not the only one
  3. emceefarlane

    Jake's 320 Build

    Wayno, I've had this car for around 10 years and this is only it's second battery. It definitely charges with the current generator and wiring setup somehow. The old AM radio that came with the truck worked fine until i unplugged the speaker from it. The new CD player i installed in the glove box and wired negative ground has been working for the last 3 ish years with the antenna plugged in with no issues. The amp i installed for the speakers is also wired negative ground. The electric fuel pump i installed is also wired negative ground. The negative terminal of the battery 100% is connected with a metal braid to the engine So i've got a negative ground truck still running a positive ground set up somehow? I tried unplugging the antenna last night to check if the tacho would work but it made no difference I also ran the engine up to temp and then swapped the wires on the coil over from the current set up which is + to the distributor and power from the ignition to - terminal After i'd swapped them the seemed to idle okay but would backfire through the exhaust when the engine was revved Also tested the tacho with this configuration but it still flashed and wanted to restart
  4. emceefarlane

    Jake's 320 Build

    I'll try both the radio and the resistor trick Tacho powered from 6v batteries in series Coil is wired up with positive from the ignition going to the negative side of the coil The positive side of the coil goes to the points of the distributor I tried testing if this was wired correctly last night by switching polarity and checking if i was getting a positive reading on my multi-meter - however i got a negative reading both ways. I endedd up with a boot when it arced out to my hand,through me and then out my other hand on the key. i closed the roller door after that Truck generator and regulator Parts truck alternator & no regulator
  5. emceefarlane

    Jake's 320 Build

    can post pics when i'm at work tomorrow
  6. emceefarlane

    Jake's 320 Build

    pretty sure it's a generator? looks original & doesn't look like any alternator i've seen before and it still has the external voltage regulator. i have a parts truck here that has an alternator from a suzuki and it has had the regulator removed so i guess mine is still a generator yes not 100 percent sure what the difference is tho
  7. emceefarlane

    Jake's 320 Build

    Can anyone think of a reason why i can't this tachometer to work? https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/bvPHYFrj I've wired it as per the diagram and while trying to fault find i hooked it straight to the car battery for power so there's no possible interference from any other wiring it illuminates and starts fine while the car is off but as soon as the car is running it wants to constantly restart itself (it flashes and you can feel the motor in it clicking). this happens regardless of whether the signal wire is connected to the coil or not. i thought it might be a problem with the voltage it's getting from the battery while it's running so i tested it on my hilux while it's running and it's fine. i bought one of these last night in the hope that the capacitors would smooth out the voltage signal https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/eccsL2t but i got impatient and bought 2 6v batteries to run in series to power the tacho after testing today with the 6v batteries the tachometer starts fine and only flashes and wants to restart when the signal wire is connected to the negative terminal if the coil i did some googling and i looks like the negative side of the coil normally goes to the distributor? that's not the case in my 320 as the positive side of the coil goes straight to the dizzy i hooked the signal wire to the positive side of the coil and the same thing happens i believe the car has been converted to negative ground previously because the negative cable from the battery bolts straight to the motor and the cd player etc i have installed all work fine sorry if this is a mess but it's hard to explain
  8. emceefarlane

    Jake's 320 Build

    not sure where to post this but there is a very clean 220 from the 37 minute mark in this vid https://youtu.be/aTOmF9AwMNY http://www.n-classiccar-jp.com/car_002.html
  9. emceefarlane

    Making L320 rear bumperettes

  10. emceefarlane

    Jake's 320 Build

    thanks! that means a lot considering there are so many great looking ones around that i aspire to!
  11. emceefarlane

    Making L320 rear bumperettes

    i used door stops from my "local" hardware store like this https://www.bunnings.com.au/adoored-30mm-black-rubber-round-door-stop_p3961326
  12. emceefarlane

    Jake's 320 Build

    the bit i couldn't get to seal was this bit where it joins to the exhaust and utilises that awful clamp I bought some of this grey gasket stuff and got very dirty using it. It seems to have worked for now
  13. emceefarlane

    Jake's 320 Build

  14. emceefarlane

    Jake's 320 Build

    Happy with how it sits at the rear now I tried to no end to get longer studs so i could run 10mm slip on spacers for the front Ended up with 15mm bolt ons that i will have to modify the nuts for - can't get shallow enough 7/16 nuts it would seem
  15. emceefarlane

    Jake's 320 Build

    Update: binned the old carbs. bought new carbs. These are the A12T flat top SU's that were on the A12GX engine Cleaned up and mounted Removed the Idle Mixture System stuff and made plates to blank it off fitted Runs pretty well with these on. It was running very lean and hot to begin with but i think i have sorted that out now. I ran the fuel rail a bit better and that leveled up the fuel bowls. I "balanced" them using a piece of hose with fluid in it - so not terribly accurate but close enough. Winding out the fuel adjuster to give them more fuel and then lifting the pin, listening for high idle then a drop back to idle works well for the rear carb, front carb does this but then starts to stall instead of returning to idle. But overall it runs fairly well. I do have an exhaust leak though in from the join between the manifold and exhaust - i just can't get it to seal up properly <embed width="440" height="420" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://v9.tinypic.com/player.swf?file=1r3m12&s=9"><br><font size="1"><a href="http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=1r3m12&s=9">Original Video</a> - More videos at <a href="http://tinypic.com">TinyPic</a></font> View My Video
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