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Let the fun begin 1973 Datsun 510 2 dr


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I may have missed it but did you pick a color yet??

 

 

 

Gonna be sooooooo straight....... B)  :ninja:  :thumbup:

I have not decided on a color yet, kind of want to keep it an old school color, but not sure yet, I have been getting a few people messaging me about buying the car but I really want to finish the whole thing drive it a bit and then sell, I have way to many cars. I have a L20B completely rebuilt with a 280z 5sp for the car but almost thinking of doing a KA, we will see what happens here soon.

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You might want to shave the License plate lights, they're a bit of an eyesore. Leaving the L/P lights on a resto is a dead giveaway that it was done by a noob.

LOL. Here in MA that would fail you on an inspection.

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Indy, if I may share what I have read in the recent days since Im about to start the bodywork on my truck too:

 

Egg or chicken? Filler or primer? A lot of the professional shops do filler first as a lot of times they end up breaking through to the bare metal. So instead of wasting many layers of primer, they simply block sand until satisfactory. THEN they primer.

 

Using sealer is a personal choice. It is harder than primer so harder to sand. You can reduce a primer to make it a sealer or use a dedicated sealer. It does help prevent water corrosion. The other issue is that sometimes it sprays unevenly so you end up having to sand the sealer. For some its bothersome because you can apply base coat over a wet sealer. Personally I will be using epoxy primer on bare metal. My surfacer will be black. So once Im done bodyworking the truck, Ill shoot a last coat of surfacer, block sand it down to 600grit and apply my dark base coat.

 

So to me the question is what material will you be using? Is your primer AND filler corrosion resistant? If your primer is and you have an even layer painted all over the surfaces, I would skip the sealer. If you choose to put filler first and it ends up sucking up some water, you run the risk of having corrosion develop underneath it. Some will say that with today's technology, the fillers are all safe to use over bare metal...

 

Theres hundreds of ways to get the same result, the life span on your paint job though may vary

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Yeah, don't shave the LP lights .... do you do high build primer over bare metal and filler, then sealer primer before base coat?

This Datsun was taken down to metal then bodyworked, after body work I sprayed a light etching primer before the highbuild primer goes on, its best to follow the manufactures instruction,for final primer I like to use HOK Kd series primer that is tintable and can be used as a sealer, the sealer is used before paint, and now with waterbase paint we use it all the time before the base. In the past I would not use a sealer.

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Very early '70's had '69 style/size marker lights front and rear, the smaller front turn signals with matching valance, and the early dash. The emission equipment is '70 model year style, and the C-Pillar vents are plastic. I'm betting that is an early '70.

 

My '70 was equipped this way, I swapped in the later dash, the bumper mounted license plate light, and the early C-pillar vents.

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