crabbyone Posted September 7, 2008 Report Share Posted September 7, 2008 Didn't come up with a lot about POR-15 in the search. Has anyone here really used it for some serious rust/cancer repair? Floorboards, body panels> Was it worth the cost and work involved. Did it hold up? Just curious, patch panels are scarce. Crabby Quote Link to comment
moparvwfreak Posted September 7, 2008 Report Share Posted September 7, 2008 i have used it. good stuff. it is expencive but well worth the cost. i have used it in the engine bay of my Mercury. Wisconsin car. rust bucket central! as for the work involved i just used a wire brush, cleaned the area with that, blew the area off with compressed air and painted it on. the rust where i put it hasn't come back. word of warning, DO NOT GET THIS STUFF ON YOUR SKIN!!!!!!! it took me 3 weeks to get it off my hands when i got it on mine. the only way to get it off is let it wear off. it stains your skin bad. i will be using it to coat my passenger floor in my 620 when ever i get around it and the rear of the cab where it has rusted through. Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted September 7, 2008 Report Share Posted September 7, 2008 I have used it on a couple of projects, worked excellent. Still have more of it and will be buying more when i need it. It coveres really well, and once you see how well it covers, it doesnt seem very expensive anymore. The quart that i bought was about $40 i think. Little over half gone, and the parts that it has covered would have gone through at least 8 rattle cans. Now at about $3 for a rattle can times eight cans. The POR15 isnt so bad. Jason Quote Link to comment
Gensaiken Posted September 7, 2008 Report Share Posted September 7, 2008 i've used Zero Rust, works good. I'm sure about equal with Por-15. I've heard good things about both. Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted September 7, 2008 Report Share Posted September 7, 2008 what exactly does this stuff do ive heard about it but was never sure as to what it does Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted September 7, 2008 Report Share Posted September 7, 2008 THe only way to stop rust is to keep oxygen from getting to it.The POR encapsulates the rust cutting off oxygen there-by stopping it. Pay attention to the instructions!!!Not following them will result in piss-poor performance of the POR-15. Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted September 7, 2008 Report Share Posted September 7, 2008 sounds like a really good undercoating then :D Quote Link to comment
moparvwfreak Posted September 7, 2008 Report Share Posted September 7, 2008 not so much undercoating. ist more a sealer. when i get my front end components all gotten they will be painted in this stuff. it makes it nice and glossy black. at least the stuff i used. Quote Link to comment
SHADY280 Posted September 7, 2008 Report Share Posted September 7, 2008 por-15 rocks, ive used it with great sucess. i had to grind it off to weld something that went where it was painted. it was like grinding off another layer of steel. it doesnt have very good uv inhibitors in it, so if exposed to sunlight you need to paint over it, or use por-15's clear coat. i always paint a color over it. Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted September 7, 2008 Report Share Posted September 7, 2008 I would first use Naval Jelly to strip the rust down to bare steel. If it wasn't for EPA restrictions, a good epoxy undercoat would seal almost anythnig against further rust. "Jesse James" uses an epoxy undercoat on the buckets he overhauls on cable and satellite channels. My son used it on a Camaro he restored and swears by it [but now swears "at" the EPA for making it so damned expensive]. Quote Link to comment
datto510 Posted September 7, 2008 Report Share Posted September 7, 2008 I would first use Naval Jelly to strip the rust down to bare steel. If it wasn't for EPA restrictions, a good epoxy undercoat would seal almost anythnig against further rust. "Jesse James" uses an epoxy undercoat on the buckets he overhauls on cable and satellite channels. My son used it on a Camaro he restored and swears by it [but now swears "at" the EPA for making it so damned expensive]. I threw away 10 quarts of Naval Jelly last year! That shit is toxic man! I switched over to Rust Seal, from the Hocking Chemical Corp, its the best stuff I have ever used. You can buy it at marine supply stores. Just 2 good coats of Rust seal, and a nice epxoy finis coat will do the trick!! Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted September 7, 2008 Report Share Posted September 7, 2008 Isn't Naval Jelly just phosphoric acid? Yes, it's irritating to the respitory system :P Quote Link to comment
Gensaiken Posted September 7, 2008 Report Share Posted September 7, 2008 a better choice for rust removal is ospho. Great stuff that changes rust back to neutral metal. It has worked great every where i've used it and even when it gets on your hands its only a slight burn feeling but nothing significant. Quote Link to comment
datto510 Posted September 7, 2008 Report Share Posted September 7, 2008 a better choice for rust removal is ospho. Great stuff that changes rust back to neutral metal. It has worked great every where i've used it and even when it gets on your hands its only a slight burn feeling but nothing significant. Ospho is great! We use it on my ship all of the time!!:D It even holds up pretty well to the sea spray. THis is where I am right now......... a buddy of mine flew over and snapped some shots!:eek: Quote Link to comment
fisch Posted September 7, 2008 Report Share Posted September 7, 2008 Try this stuff! http://nomorerust.com/silver.htm By bro-inlaw restored classics for years and swears but it. And unlike POR 15 who say "POR-15 is sensitive to UV light (sun) and must be topcoated before prolonged exposure to sunlight." MAster series says, "Master Series silver is sunlight stable." I've used it and it is amazing and coats really well! Quote Link to comment
fisch Posted September 7, 2008 Report Share Posted September 7, 2008 I wrote a whole thread about it here: http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=3285&highlight=master+series Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted September 8, 2008 Report Share Posted September 8, 2008 Isn't Naval Jelly just phosphoric acid? a better choice for rust removal is ospho. phOSPHOric acid= same stuff in naval jelly and most rust converter products. removal is physical, not chemical. Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted September 8, 2008 Report Share Posted September 8, 2008 You're starting to get into semantics.If the rust is "converted",it is no longer rust and if it is no longer rust-"it" is not there anymore.There-fore has been "removed". Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted September 8, 2008 Report Share Posted September 8, 2008 yeah, well... :P its not my fault NO manufacture claims to remove the rust, AKA ferrous oxide. Fe2O3 + 2 H3PO4 ----> 2 FePO4 + 3 H2O ..and if it is no longer rust-"it" is not there anymore.There-fore has been "removed". then where did it go? Quote Link to comment
73super Posted September 9, 2008 Report Share Posted September 9, 2008 I coat all my rust repairs with Hammerite. It works just as well if not better than POR-15 or that stuff that Eastwood sells. It's a whole lot cheaper. You put two solid coats on and it lasts forever! I've used it on everything from my 620, Triumph, Rambler, '49 Chev, '55 Buick... it does a super job! Get the stuff you can brush on.... put it on nice and thick! Quote Link to comment
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