Cuts metal like mad Posted September 1, 2008 Report Share Posted September 1, 2008 Yee HAH! Finally got my 521... patience really does work! Pretty dang straight, straighter than my 620 and less rust! Heres the PREVIEW pics. Shes gonna take some work to get back on the road though. SO, I now have a question for you guys, I have never owned a datsun with an J-series motor... what would it take to swap in an L motor? (no freakin out the motor is missing already) Will I have to fab up new frame mounts? or just get some 521 L motor mounts? Honestly I've never seen frame mounts like these... :D Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted September 1, 2008 Report Share Posted September 1, 2008 Good score,she looks straight & even has the "monza" tip exhaust:cool: On the motor mounts id say if cut a set off an old 521 frame & weld them in place, then cut off the J 13 ones. Im sure somebody here can take measurements & tell you where they go. Quote Link to comment
Craig Hughes Posted September 3, 2008 Report Share Posted September 3, 2008 Hey, if you decide to swap out motors, keep me inline for your old J13, please!:D Quote Link to comment
DatDoug Posted September 3, 2008 Report Share Posted September 3, 2008 Hey, Ive seen that truck b4! I seen it over here in GigHarbor in the parking lot of The Harvester Restaraunt. Sweet ride! I think you can also put in an A-series motor like the ones in the 210's. I have a line on a 521 myself:D Quote Link to comment
Justin Posted September 3, 2008 Report Share Posted September 3, 2008 SWEET truck! I love 521's dumped on stocks... and lucky you getting the opening rear window! my '69 has homemade mounts (which weren't made by me). This next pic is sideways (oops!), the motormount is inline with the oil filter, Cut/welded angle iron with "hockey puck" absorbers.:D I think the mounting surface for the J-series is flat, whereas the L-series is slanted...? It seems like the J-series 521 mounts need to be longer than the L-series 620 also, but I haven't measured or anything, just going off memory- Quote Link to comment
Cuts metal like mad Posted September 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2008 Awesome guys thanks a lot! I think I will have the frame mounts tonight. Now that I know I wish I could take the "need help" part off of the thread subject line... Anyway, heres a small update. I have been tearing the truck down in preparation for its "open heart surgery" and I am painting and repairing stuff I will not want to do over again after the sheet metal goes back on... down time can be good. I have found very little rust surprisingly, someone used por-15 or something on this truck at one time and it helped, but its peeling up now and I'll be finding another solution... the floor pans are completely solid, and the cab corners where the fender bolts on at the bottom are only a little rusty not even rusted through. Every single valance bolt snapped though, so that will be a fun repair... :( The hood trim won't come off though, the screws are rusted solid and I tried drill through them only to burn up a good bit, I guess the grinder is coming out for that... I'll be REAL careful, speaking of the hood, its tan and is pretty straight also. I used the wiring diagrams from olddatsun.com to get blown up at kinkos and now have them on my wall, they are 24" x 36" EASY TO READ, I am gonna go through the harness and make some REPAIRS since the previous owner made some "repairs"... :rolleyes: "SHUT UP, ON WITH THE PICS ALREADY!" Ok ok... sheesh! :fu: Heres how the truck sat adter wiring wheeling to prep for the rust ??inhibitor?? this is the worst spot of rust I have found so far and it wasn't through (cab corner I spoke about above) This is the product I used on the rust, works AWESOME. $10 a quart. And lastly... for now... after a nice thick coat of heavy duty rust preventative primer. Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted September 14, 2008 Report Share Posted September 14, 2008 Looking good. Looks like a lot of work. Glad to see you going through the trouble of keeping the rust at bay. How was this product to apply. I notice a brush on the bottle. Do you brush it on or spray it? Quote Link to comment
Cuts metal like mad Posted September 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2008 you brush it... its got phosphoric acid in it so I recommend long sleaves and DEFINATELY eye protection, maybe even a dust mask. I made the mistake of not wearing long sleaves and it BURNS, :lol: I did wear eye protection, and some how managed to get the brush to "flick" in the direction of my face... was SO glad I put the safety glasses on, I almost oppted not to. Its realy easy to put on, I wire wheeled first to take off the majority of the rust, but put it on everywhere, it turns the rust black like some other products but this is way better than that spray can garbage. Its available at home improvement stores. It was a HELL of a lot of work, but SO worth it. When time and money allows, it will get a frame off. Quote Link to comment
Gensaiken Posted September 14, 2008 Report Share Posted September 14, 2008 you brush it... its got phosphoric acid in it so I recommend long sleaves and DEFINATELY eye protection, maybe even a dust mask. I made the mistake of not wearing long sleaves and it BURNS, :lol: I did wear eye protection, and some how managed to get the brush to "flick" in the direction of my face... was SO glad I put the safety glasses on, I almost oppted not to. Its realy easy to put on, I wire wheeled first to take off the majority of the rust, but put it on everywhere, it turns the rust black like some other products but this is way better than that spray can garbage. Its available at home improvement stores. It was a HELL of a lot of work, but SO worth it. When time and money allows, it will get a frame off. Yeah I recomend the gloves. Lately i've been to lazy to wear anything safety related while applying this stuff. I know that'll bite me in the ass soon. Ospho works great tho. I took the top off and put on a cheap spayer bottle head. Worked great for a while but like all sprayer bottles the sprayer eventually failed but the cheap home depot ones work pretty great for applying it. :lol: Quote Link to comment
dat521gatherer Posted September 15, 2008 Report Share Posted September 15, 2008 awesome job looks like the ospho does the trick. what happens after the rust turns black? does it fall off or do you take it off or just paint over it? looks like you have a newer rear view mirror. how about a pic of it? ah hell just post pics of the whole interior. nice rear slider you have there i need to get me one of those. Quote Link to comment
ppeters914 Posted September 16, 2008 Report Share Posted September 16, 2008 awesome job looks like the ospho does the trick. what happens after the rust turns black? does it fall off or do you take it off or just paint over it? You just paint over it. I wonder what's better; Eastwood, POR-15, Ospho, or Zero Rust? Or does it make a rat's ass as long as you apply the product correctly? Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted September 16, 2008 Report Share Posted September 16, 2008 Hey all that hard work is worth it in the end. Looking good. Quote Link to comment
Cuts metal like mad Posted October 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 Its been awhile since I updated this so, here comes. I got some things done, some not done. The engine compartment is painted, the fender wells and all finished up and undercoated (2 layers). The fenders were "de-rusted" (its my thread I'm allowed to make up a couple words) and painted, along with the hood. I got the frame mounts cut off and ready for the L mounts to be welded in... Datsunoob agreed to give me a hand with that, at the ratsun discounted rate (don't get me wrong, I can weld but out of practice... 6 years out, I'll practice on something less important). Got the mounts, tranny, driveshaft, 521 L16, U67 L20b, and 521 radiator from tdaaj (THANKS AGAIN TED!). My 620 wasn't happy with that load in the bed... what with the overloads out and 2 inch blocks, it sat an inch off the axle. :D So right now I am rebuilding that L20b, Ted said that it probably needed rings. The rings actually "looked" good, but when I put oil in the cylinders it drained down past the rings. Everything came apart real easy, and the cylinder walls are REALLY good shape, still have crosshatching (never overbored either). The bearings were in "ok" shape, but were certainly ready for replacement. I did run into a problem with the crank though... who ever put that motor in F'd up the flywheel bolt holes... it came from an auto actually, and it only had 3 bolts in the flex plate and 3 bolts in the torque converter. So without further delay here comes "some" pics... Believe it or not in this pic the truck is like 2" off the ground. Heres the damage to the crank... I forget where this was being discussed, but there was some confussion about the 69 521s coming with the shoulder harness bolt hole/flat spot... heres mine, no hole, no flat spot. AND... something I found back in july and forgot to share but I think is kinda neat... Quote Link to comment
tdaaj Posted October 20, 2008 Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 i knew i was for getting something, i haven't had a chance to see if i have another crank yet. Quote Link to comment
521Lvr Posted October 20, 2008 Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 Sweet! Where can I get som Ospho? I had some about 20 years ago. Works Great! Quote Link to comment
fisch Posted October 20, 2008 Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 Great progress zuum, way to make me feel lazy! Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted October 20, 2008 Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 "de rusted" is a good term :D Looking clean too..good to have the Ratsun discount. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted October 20, 2008 Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 They started stamping the flat spots in early '70....but didn't actually put the holes in until near the end of '70. Paula's 521 has the stamping on the doors for the lock button, but no hole or button. Quote Link to comment
Cuts metal like mad Posted October 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 i knew i was for getting something, i haven't had a chance to see if i have another crank yet. no worries Ted, i got your number now... if i get in a hurry I'll call! :lol: You did email me saying you had one that needed to be polished!! You've got WAY too much on your plate bro, you an the ol'lady need a vacation. :) The girlfriends dad says its repairable... I'm not so sure, anyone else have an opinion?? Sweet! Where can I get som Ospho? I had some about 20 years ago. Works Great! I got mine at a hardware store here call "Mcclendon's" but I believe you can get it at any hardware store... at least the bigger ones. Great progress zuum, way to make me feel lazy! Bah! I have been taking my time... look at the date of my last update on this thread... 9/14, I'm the lazy one, you've been pumping out those sweet drawings!! :thumbsup: At least your truck is drivable. I still need to track down a flywheel, get more parts for the rebuild, haul the crank down to the machine shop to see if its repairable and if not find another one... which I believe tdaaj has... tear down the tranny that I have and see if its good, get a clutch kit, get new brake lines (cause the PO did a "fancy" repair to them :eek: ), reupholster the seat (its trashed, it had 2 layers of seat covers and the 2nd layer was NAAAASTY!), rewire the truck with a later model nissan blade fuse box, rework the drivers door (poor repair job there too), ummmm... I could go on. :lol: anyway wish me luck. :D "de rusted" is a good term :D Looking clean too..good to have the Ratsun discount. Thanks bro, its really dirt right now... I guess I should have waited to paint till after I decided to shoot sparks everywhere! :D They started stamping the flat spots in early '70....but didn't actually put the holes in until near the end of '70. Paula's 521 has the stamping on the doors for the lock button, but no hole or button. My passenger door has no stamp for the door lock button, the drivers door came from something newer... Quote Link to comment
Cuts metal like mad Posted October 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2008 So the project progresses a little more today... just a little. I have been secretly planning to do Motorcycle carbs on this project well heres my unvailing... since they just showed up. The carbs come from a Yamaha R1, they are 42mm with a 40mm choke, they are a CV (constant velocity) type carb... so they should produce a decent amount of grunt down low while still providing plenty of power up top... AND should maintain pretty good mileage to boot. They are also more stable than sidedrafts, and will require less tuning... meaning they won't fall off tune like a set of webers. They also have a throttle position sensor already, so the EDIS and Megajolt would be a good pairing to these. No I'm not the first one to do it, but I'll probably be the first one around here... at least on a datsun. Best part of all... the sound of individual carbs is gonna be WICKED! This is pretty popular in japan BTW, they actually use a different version of these same carbs. Heres the pics... I'll be using my spare L16 head for mockup of the manifold... stay tuned! Quote Link to comment
slodat Posted October 27, 2008 Report Share Posted October 27, 2008 Right on man! That will be a sweet setup! How long until it's on your truck? Quote Link to comment
Cuts metal like mad Posted October 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2008 not sure... waiting for parts from the machine shop, and still need to rebuild my head... but I hope to have the manifold built before the head is done. It won't be on the truck for a while... I have a long list! My current goal is to have the motor back in by next month though... We'll see. Quote Link to comment
Cuts metal like mad Posted November 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2008 no pics now but the manifold should be done tomorrow, it's not going on this truck anymore though, it will be going on the L16 truck... This is just to get the thing going, since I had a choice between making the manifold or buying a weber... Well the choice is obvious think, so for future updates on the individual carb project stay tuned to my "project daily driver 1600". Thanks... No I have not stopped the 69 project, I am simply reprioritizing. It is getting a different engine, and the cab n bed are coming off for a more serious resto before the rest will be tackled. Sorry to those who were watching this, but I'm not in a hurry with this truck, having 2 makes a guy really think... Quote Link to comment
denveratsun Posted June 25, 2009 Report Share Posted June 25, 2009 no pics now but the manifold should be done tomorrow, it's not going on this truck anymore though, it will be going on the L16 truck... This is just to get the thing going, since I had a choice between making the manifold or buying a weber... Well the choice is obvious think, so for future updates on the individual carb project stay tuned to my "project daily driver 1600". Thanks... No I have not stopped the 69 project, I am simply reprioritizing. It is getting a different engine, and the cab n bed are coming off for a more serious resto before the rest will be tackled. Sorry to those who were watching this, but I'm not in a hurry with this truck, having 2 makes a guy really think... Oh man...you got any pics? I just got a set of 28s that I want to run on my L16...got the carbs all torn down and started the intake conversation with several of my friends. Should be sweet to hear them run! I would love to hear/see where your at with it. I think that the 28s will be totally sufficient for my little rig at a mile above sea level.:cool: Quote Link to comment
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