HAM8URGER Posted January 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 I know thanks for the info though. I did a ton of research on e85 when I was building my 420 AWHP STi. Have you seen Haltechs flex fuel unit? If you haven't look it up, it's a pretty slick unit. I used to have RS3's on an STi I used to have. I think on this car I will run 205/45 or 205/50 R888's all the way around. As for the weight to traction ratio you are talking about, I should have more weight on the rear than some. I'll have a full sized battery over the rear member plus a 17 gallon fuel cell sunk DEEP into the spare tire well. It should help a little. I'm thinking the 18g might not be the best turbo for autocross along with all of the other mods But I'm not planning on seriously competing. Just fun runs and some HPDE's. I got a great deal on the turbo though so I'll run with it for now. Quote Link to comment
paradime Posted January 9, 2015 Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 I'm actually looking at getting a flex fuel sensor right now. I'll look up the Haltech. I saw the Fuel cell you have. Great choice. I have a 15 gal APT cell in my car. Quote Link to comment
HAM8URGER Posted January 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2015 Heck yeah looks great! Quote Link to comment
HAM8URGER Posted January 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2015 How good are these? http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=60160&Category_Code=AP160 Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted January 10, 2015 Report Share Posted January 10, 2015 That's just to prevent the roof from crushing you. No extra rigidity in the unibody. Quote Link to comment
Uber Deaf One Posted January 10, 2015 Report Share Posted January 10, 2015 Yep.. I have a 4 pt bolt in autopower rollbar. Believe me I don't feel as safe as I do in a car with a full cage lol. Quote Link to comment
HAM8URGER Posted January 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2015 I was thinking about welding the bases in Quote Link to comment
paradime Posted January 11, 2015 Report Share Posted January 11, 2015 With all the torque you'll be making, I'd go with a body bonded 6 point. Something like this Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted January 11, 2015 Report Share Posted January 11, 2015 With all the torque you'll be making, I'd go with a body bonded 6 point. Something like this Where's the connection to the strut towers? Quote Link to comment
HAM8URGER Posted January 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2015 I can't build something like that Quote Link to comment
paradime Posted January 11, 2015 Report Share Posted January 11, 2015 You can't? Do you know a fabricator? Maybe you could add some lower door frame to that four point to get more forward rigidity. I hear what you're saying Matt, but connecting the cage to the towers is not needed in the 510. Troy Ermish built my cage, and he doesn't run the cage to the towers in his own race car. Although the bracket is there he doesn't even use a strut bace. He talked me out of installing one in my car. Quote Link to comment
HAM8URGER Posted January 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 Keep the front and rear side markers or shave em? Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 Keep them. So much safer. 1 Quote Link to comment
paradime Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 I'm a big fan of shaving everything down to it's basic form. If you go that route you really have to go all the way, otherwise it looks half done IMO. Here's the thing though, your car is so complete it would almost be a toss up for me. I like the blacked out look around the windows on your car. It might be interesting to take that a step further by keeping all the original chrome and stainless parts, but blacking them out as well. Lest face it, black against the orange of your car looks kick ass. Just my $.02 BTW, If you're tacking the stock tank out, you'll want to add a tower brace in the rear. You can weld one in, or use the stock tank brackets to bolt a simple bar across. I don't know if that 4 point cage you're looking at mounts to the tower, but if not you may want to add a tube to reach back there. That area will be taking a serious torque beating. Quote Link to comment
HAM8URGER Posted January 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 I decided on the new paint color though... 939 Italian Olive which color... Which color... Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 Keep the front and rear side markers or shave em? Keep. Wire for turn signals. 2 Quote Link to comment
Josh K. Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 Exactly. Keep idiots from hitting your precious car. That's what I'm going to do. 1 Quote Link to comment
paradime Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 If the car is going to be a daily driver, saving the sidelight for safety is a valid consideration, but if it's going to be a track day, fun run car than... Kind of a dark forest green is it. Still, blacking out the chrome might look pretty sick. :devil: Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 Convert to 69 style. 1 Quote Link to comment
sentra Posted January 17, 2015 Report Share Posted January 17, 2015 i did not see it if u post ..but what size top feed injectors are you running , brand , cc , low or high impedance? im assuming they are 14mm . Quote Link to comment
HAM8URGER Posted January 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2015 I'm using 1000cc Deatschwerks, Bosch style, top feed, high imp, and they are 11mm 1 Quote Link to comment
HAM8URGER Posted January 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2015 I was going to use 775cc Fuel Injector Clinic injectors which are what I have pictured earlier in the thread, but I was able to trade them strIght across for brand new 1000 cc DW's... So I figured why not Quote Link to comment
NickE Posted January 17, 2015 Report Share Posted January 17, 2015 I shaved mine and have not had an issue, but haven't driven much. I would not keep the stock ones. An option I thought about was doing '69 fronts and trying to see if I could get also mount the '69 fronts on the rear, and then tint the lenses red. I'm not a fan of the '69 rear marker. Without side markers it does look a little plain. 1 Quote Link to comment
Spoona_Jay21 Posted January 18, 2015 Report Share Posted January 18, 2015 an interesting idea would be smooth em, and then drill new holes to run 68' Dodge Dart sidemarkers. they are simple and clean. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/oam-mp4151/overview/year/1968/make/dodge/model/dart http://www.summitracing.com/parts/oam-mp4161/overview/year/1968/make/dodge/model/dart they are a bit pricey new, but i bet you could find them a little cheaper used somewhere Just my $0.02 :thumbup: 2 Quote Link to comment
russaroll Posted January 19, 2015 Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 Just went through this whole thread. Great build and definitely some good inspiration. 1 Quote Link to comment
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