shakotan710 Posted September 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2013 Went to Sonoma for the Slammed Society meet and WTCC races and it turned out great, the car was even in a couple of the pictures in the Fatlace article! 1 Quote Link to comment
Engy Posted September 28, 2013 Report Share Posted September 28, 2013 Looking good man but is it just me or do you have some positive camber on your front wheels? Intentional? 1 Quote Link to comment
shakotan710 Posted October 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2013 I don't think I do, I think its mainly the angle of the picture, but its very close to positive, the camber plates I have on the coils are set all the way to camber it as much as possible, but it doesn't do much. I think I need to buy adjustable control arms if I want any, but once I get a daily driver, that's one of the first things I'll do, and i'll lower it with better tires 1 Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted November 25, 2013 Report Share Posted November 25, 2013 Cool to see it the before pics of the body. Car looks great. Good meeting you yesterday. I'll probly grab that seat this coming weekend if you're free. 1 Quote Link to comment
shakotan710 Posted February 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 Pictures will be put up tonight, some changes were made and I need to ask a couple of questions about the lowering block u bolts if anyone will be up. Mainly concerned about how much I would have to bend them, it's not that much but I'm just wondering if anyone has had to do the same on their car. Quote Link to comment
rattadat Posted February 4, 2014 Report Share Posted February 4, 2014 :w00t: Stoked to see you back kid! I don't have a ton of exp. with the solid rear cars but I'd love to see what you got going on and maybe give some ideas. 1 Quote Link to comment
shakotan710 Posted February 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2014 http://i1306.photobucket.com/albums/s562/shakotan710/image2_zpscb11c10b.jpeg Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 4, 2014 Report Share Posted February 4, 2014 I got a set of H-190 U bolts and 2" blocks (probably for a 620) at Canby. Late in the day deals to be made.I fit them to my H-165 710 rear axle by simply pounding the U a little tighter to fit the mounting plates. Fit's perfectly! Even added an extra leaf to stiffen. 2 Quote Link to comment
Will Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 That's odd - on my 710, the parking brake cable hooks up the the rear axle on the passengers side instead of the drivers side. I got a set of H-190 U bolts and 2" blocks (probably for a 620) at Canby. Late in the day deals to be made.I fit them to my H-165 710 rear axle by simply pounding the U a little tighter to fit the mounting plates. Fit's perfectly! Even added an extra leaf to stiffen. 1 Quote Link to comment
shakotan710 Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 (edited) Ive been having some computer problems lately so i can finally upload them now. I was able to plasti dip it in November and its held up really good in general. Not much has happened over the winter, I'm not sure if I should do a sr20de swap or not. I can get the motor for cheap, and through what I have read, the de's don't need much modification to fit inside the 710. Here's the pics!! And thanks for the help with the blocks, my parking brake is also on the passenger side. I'll put up pictures soon of the u-bolts that I have and how much I would need to bend them in order for them to fit. EDIT JAN 2020: Pictures reuploaded due to photobucket issues. Edited January 4, 2020 by shakotan710 Photobucket... 2 Quote Link to comment
shakotan710 Posted February 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2014 Another update, I ended up buying an sr20de for pretty cheap, and by what I've heard from a couple of different people that have done this swap, it should be easy, but I am ready for any obstacles so it isn't a big deal if there are problems along the way. Pictures will be up in the next week or so, and I took the head to a shop to get a valve job, pressure check, and a resurface. It looks like the 1st cylinder had something on top of the piston. The guy at the shop said it could've been the electrode to the spark plug Quote Link to comment
rattadat Posted February 13, 2014 Report Share Posted February 13, 2014 Sweet deal on the SR man. That should scream in your 710. Im not super familiar with the SR20DE. Is this the single or dual overhead cam? I was really digging the raw finish you had but that plastidip looks great bro. Keep up the good work. Were you able to find some blocks for the rear end to squat it more? Quote Link to comment
shakotan710 Posted February 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2014 It's still the dual cam just without the turbo, and I liked the bare metal too but I needed something to protect it in the rain, and I do have blocks, I just need to find my u bolts and then I can put them on Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted February 13, 2014 Report Share Posted February 13, 2014 SR swap is not easy, but is kinda well documented. Another update, I ended up buying an sr20de for pretty cheap, and by what I've heard from a couple of different people that have done this swap, it should be easy, but I am ready for any obstacles so it isn't a big deal if there are problems along the way. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted February 13, 2014 Report Share Posted February 13, 2014 SR swap is not easy. Thats what I was thinking otherwise there wounldt be a "forsale" section full of these incomplete SR/KA swaps. good luck with swap. Just cause motor is cheap doenst mean its going to be cheap to do the swap right. cound be over 2K $ all said and done if not more. I smashed electrod is nothing. swap plug and drive it I am ready for any obstacles so it isn't a big deal if there are problems along the way?????????? there is a big OBSTACLE: your still in school!!!!!!!!!! 1 Quote Link to comment
shakotan710 Posted February 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2014 I'm not too worried on how easy it will be, this is a learning experience, so I'm not trying to rush it either, and I've been doing a good amount of research so we'll see how it goes! 1 Quote Link to comment
shakotan710 Posted February 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2014 SR swap is not easy.Thats what I was thinking otherwise there wounldt be a "forsale" section full of these incomplete SR/KA swaps.good luck with swap. Just cause motor is cheap doenst mean its going to be cheap to do the swap right.cound be over 2K $ all said and done if not more.I smashed electrod is nothing. swap plug and drive itI am ready for any obstacles so it isn't a big deal if there are problems along the way??????????there is a big OBSTACLE:your still in school!!!!!!!!!! Yea, My school is only a 10 minute drive from my house and this semester is easy, and school is pretty easy to me, so I'll see what happens, school always comes first though Quote Link to comment
INDY510 Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 I have some pics of when it's blue ... .. but I'm 6 months behind on pictures: 1 Quote Link to comment
shakotan710 Posted February 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 I have some pics of when it's blue ... .. but I'm 6 months behind on pictures: It's all good man, thanks for the picture, I'm not sure if I should go back or not, the bare metal was kinda cool Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 If you want to go bare metal talk to james( the510keeper on here) he's done a couple 510's bare metal. He's up in your neck of The woods too. 1 Quote Link to comment
shakotan710 Posted February 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 I was thinking about talking to him, I also think that I could just clear it myself when I go back to metal if I don't get paint in the future Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 how much did the plasti dip cost? and how is the durability i rattle canned my car but it hasnt held up well if its a cheap way to seal the car till i can get real paint on it ill do it 1 Quote Link to comment
shakotan710 Posted February 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 how much did the plasti dip cost? and how is the durability i rattle canned my car but it hasnt held up well if its a cheap way to seal the car till i can get real paint on it ill do it It was $450 shipped for the whole kit, probably just $200 in paint if you have the other supplies, and it holds up really well as long as everything is cleaned before spraying, I'll put up some pictures of where it bubbled from oils that weren't removed and painted over Quote Link to comment
nismosilvia Posted February 14, 2014 Report Share Posted February 14, 2014 After plastidip hardens for a while it's pretty strong for daily driving. However it doesn't hold up well against gas and will mess it up quickly. 1 Quote Link to comment
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