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Washington, clutch help?


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 After moving my 620 to washington the cluch is finally going out. I moved here for college and am limited on tools, I just have some basic hand tools... Im going to order a clutch right now... anybody in tri cities, or semi close to moses lake want to lend me a hand and a jack and a garage? My truck still drives and I can make it you or we could do it out in the street at my house lol.... 

 

Unless its a master cylinder, what do you think- My clutch clamps with enough force to burnout, it dosnt slip at all on hills in any gear and its good there... But the pedal releases at the very end of the pedal no matter the adjustment... And a couple times in the summer when the tempature outside got HOT my clutch would slip... 

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You mean it releases at the almost full down on the peddle???? If so this could be air in the system.

 

Look at the master... it full of fluid?

 

Fill and loosen the bleeder on the side of the slave. Have someone push down and hold the clutch... fluid will squirt out. Tighten the bleeder and let up on peddle. When up, loosen the bleeder and repeat until all air bubbles stop and fluid is clean flowing. Every 4th try check the master reservoir. DO NOT LET THE RESERVOIR GO DRY.

 

6 to 8 sets should clear out any air. Peddle should disengage and grip higher up with less peddle travel.

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when I push the clutch down and release it in gear to start going it engages at the very end of its travel... fluid level is good but its pretty black... Ive put a new slave cylinder on when I got it, and the master dosnt look very old either... Could It just be that it needs bled? I bled the shit out of it when I installed it... I thought that a bad bleed would cause issues getting in gear "shifting" not make it slip or release any later? am I wrong? 

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Step 1:  Get under the truck, have someone push the clutch in, see if you have normal travel of the clutch fork.  Pay close attention to the rubber line also, which could very easily be swelling and causing a pressure drop.  If it's not making full travel, then check into bad slave cylinder (rebuild it) or bad master cylinder (rebuild it).

 

Step 2: Put it in third gear and try to accelerate from 25 mph.  If the engine speeds up but the speedo doesn't, then you have a clutch problem.  If it bogs and takes forever to start accelerating, your clutch is fine.

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Matt, if the line was soft or there was a lack of pressure to the slave wouldn't the peddle have to travel all the way to the floor to disengage and engage the clutch. He said it engages with the peddle lifted almost all the way up.

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Make sure that your peddle has about 1/16" of free play in it. Just push lightly on the peddle with your thumb. It should move easily against the spring under the dash and then engage the master and become firm. The push rod is up under the dash where the peddle meets it. There is a clevis pin to rempve and a lock nut to back off. Turn the push rod to shorten it and test the free play. When you get it where you want tighten the lock nut and instal the pin. Don't forget the clip to hold the pin in place.

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  • 1 month later...

ok I ordered in a master cylinder and a slave cylinder and some ho's ;)

 

 the old ho's wouldn't cum off so I couldnt put that on, but the Original ho's was pretty wet and lubricated and not too cracked out so I let that be. 

 

My slave looked pretty beat up so It was replaced with a new slave that I can beat on and abuse...

 

my master looked to be functioning and shafting pretty good still, but I drafted the new master to take its place. 

 

one thing to note is that the ho's was kinda kinky, and I think the ho's was not allowing the flow to cum through. 

 

After a quick test ride everything was releasing at mid pedal and I shifted it hard into gear a few times and got some chirp at the back tires... I think we have success and the ratsun gods will be proud! 

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