mantas Posted May 16, 2013 Report Share Posted May 16, 2013 When wiring up the ka do we run a whole new harness to ignition etc? Been covered in this thread, and the answer is no. Quote Link to comment
HEATHEN Posted May 21, 2013 Report Share Posted May 21, 2013 Jeff, just wanted to say thank you for the can am junction block and the door handle rod. I am sure it will function just as well as it looks! Quote Link to comment
jdmdime Posted May 25, 2013 Report Share Posted May 25, 2013 Hey quick question. My middle fuse on the can/am box keeps blowing. One of my wires is shorting. Question is, wich wire would cause the middle fuse to blow? I dont want to tear my whole harness appart. Thanx in advance. Quote Link to comment
Josh V. Posted June 2, 2013 Report Share Posted June 2, 2013 Did anyone ever get info on a VH45DE wiring? any info yet? lol. Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted June 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2013 If the engine runs champ with the maf unplugged its a vacuum leak. Check everything. I built a pressure checker with some plumbing parts I got at the hardware store. That way I can pressurize the intake and spray soap and watch for bubbles. Works great! 2 Quote Link to comment
Nissanjoe96 Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 I ve seen how you guys like pictures here so I figured I'd share some of my build. After I redo my photo bucket lol. Quote Link to comment
k-autic Posted June 13, 2013 Report Share Posted June 13, 2013 i figured it out as most of you u might know that went to canby, but thanx icehouse it was a leak in one of the injectors i had to replace a rubber grommet and had to change a hose somewere in the back of the motor by the idle control valve Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted June 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2013 99% of the time the problems is vacuum leaks. Quote Link to comment
vegasS12 Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 Sent you a PM. Hope to hear back from you soon. Quote Link to comment
choleaoum Posted July 13, 2013 Report Share Posted July 13, 2013 From my understanding, for a 510 SR20DET swap I can just cut from the ECU pin 104, 36, 4, and etc into the CAN/AM box right? What difference would it make if I went all the way to the engine harness, I feel like it would just be the same thing. Either that or I'm having a major brain fart. Quote Link to comment
Jesse C. Posted July 20, 2013 Report Share Posted July 20, 2013 Ok, So I finally got back to work on my car and I have fuel in the tank and all the little lights come on. It appears to be getting power to everything but the injectors. I have Red wire #114 connected and it is not giving them any power. Do I need to hook up power from the directly from a battery source or do they need to be powered by the ECU? I am so close to slapping a carb on this thing! STOP ME!! Quote Link to comment
choleaoum Posted July 23, 2013 Report Share Posted July 23, 2013 i'll have a DIY up soon to clear up any confusions. thanks again jeff for being patient lol. Quote Link to comment
james610 Posted August 8, 2013 Report Share Posted August 8, 2013 this thread has great info but i still have some problems w/ my swap. i have a 72 521 & im putting in a 95 s14 ka24de w/ manuel trans in it, i connected the nessasary wires from the ecu using the diagram on the 1st page (4 fuses & 3 relays) but motor cranks but i am not getting any spark. I have voltage going into the dizzy both wires show 12v (is 1 supposed to be ground?) .. also when i 1st turn the key the fuel pump turns on but then shuts off after a few seconds, is that normal? any ideas of wat i could check would help a lot. thanks... Quote Link to comment
james610 Posted August 8, 2013 Report Share Posted August 8, 2013 also i realized my crank position sensor (located on the trans. bell housing isnt connected) were do i connect that to? Quote Link to comment
Creepy Cruiser Posted August 8, 2013 Report Share Posted August 8, 2013 We personally don't actually run that trans crank position sensor on any of our '95+ KA swaps. (with no issues) Quote Link to comment
Jesse C. Posted August 12, 2013 Report Share Posted August 12, 2013 Ok, so. We had a jam session on my car and got it to run with us pouring gas into the intake since the injectors will not work. We can hear them click, but no gas. We swapped out my ecu into my friends car and it ran, so the ecu is good. It is the 300ZX setup. The harness had been modified at some point where all the injectors where running off only two wires. We went ahead and seperated them to run individually, but still, nothing. We can feel them click, but just no fuel out of them. Set up is: 1987 200SX intake setup with its original injectors. 1988 300ZX ECU, Harness, AFM and distributor Walbro Fuel Pump Any ideas? Quote Link to comment
goichi1 Posted August 12, 2013 Report Share Posted August 12, 2013 ..sounds like you have the fuel lines connected wrong at the fuel rail. The fuel should flow thru the rail and return thru the regulator and head back to the tank. Quote Link to comment
Jesse C. Posted August 12, 2013 Report Share Posted August 12, 2013 I have the fuel coming in from the back of the engine and out the front through the regulator. Could the regulator be bad? Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted August 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2013 Yes the regulator could be bad. Slightly pinch the return line after the regulator and see if that makes a difference. Make sure not to dead end the fuel. Those lines don't have to high of a PSI max. Quote Link to comment
Jesse C. Posted August 12, 2013 Report Share Posted August 12, 2013 I am running steel braided lines. Should I plug it up really quick? Quote Link to comment
bigman420 Posted August 13, 2013 Report Share Posted August 13, 2013 where Can I Purchase A Box For My620 Ka Swap...Web Link? Quote Link to comment
griffmac Posted August 15, 2013 Report Share Posted August 15, 2013 Do you have anymore for sale!!! I need one asap.. Quote Link to comment
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