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How to wire a KA, CA, SR, and VG into anything


Icehouse

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Hey so I'm doing a SR20DET swap in my 510 but to make things clear, where it says "pin 104" am I suppose to cut that wire from ECU side or Engine side and plug it into FLPSS?

 

The box sees signal threw the orange wire right? That's how it knows to start up?

 

Am I suppose to purchase more relays and set it up as pictured?

 

Edit: Got my answer on pg: 26

 

Any chance you will make a model to work for the 1JZ? If I can play my cards right I might get my hands on a 1JZ lol.

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I would make a diagram for the 1jz if you could find the actual diagram. I've had trouble finding a good one. A friend did that swap on his s13 and I wasn't able to help without a good diagram.

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A little bit confused the diagrams show 3 relays between the 510 harness the a can am box after the engine harness isnt this cAn am suppose to replace these 3 relays ? 

 

I was wondering the same thing.  I think it's a little confusing because the box with the dotted line shows "ENGINE HARNESS   ECUPINNUMBER   CAN/AMBOX" in that order, making it appear like the can/am box is the last thing in the circuit.  

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Basically, take the Engine harness wires that correspond to the ECU pins, and plug them into the CanAm.

 

Attach Battery power to any of the 4 locations.

 

Attach Ignition power wire to key power location on box.

 

Make sure box is grounded.

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Quick question for you wiring gurus. I threw in a 60Amp from the battery to the Can/Am box (just needed to test / start the truck) and the fuse was getting hot. Went to the yard and got a 70Amp, am i going to have the same problem with the fuse getting hot or is the 70Amp going to solve this?

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Quick question for you wiring gurus. I threw in a 60Amp from the battery to the Can/Am box (just needed to test / start the truck) and the fuse was getting hot. Went to the yard and got a 70Amp, am i going to have the same problem with the fuse getting hot or is the 70Amp going to solve this?

 

I think i read somewhere here that you need to use a 75amp

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Dumb question with the CAN/AM box and the S13 KA24DE. 

 

 The car starts and runs (very badly), but had a question on the wiring.  If I turn the key to start and kick on the fuel pump and let it stop, if I unplug the 4 wire plug from the distributor the fuel pump will kick on again, if I wait until the fuel pump turns back off and plug the plug back in, the fuel pump will turn back on.  Is something wrong with my wiring?

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Nope wiring is fine.  The ECU thinks while doing the above that the engine was "spinning" then it realizes it wasn't so it shuts it off.  No biggy.  

 

How does it run with the maf unplugged?  

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Nope wiring is fine.  The ECU thinks while doing the above that the engine was "spinning" then it realizes it wasn't so it shuts it off.  No biggy.  

 

How does it run with the maf unplugged?  

 

Ok, good to know.  I wasn't sure or not.

 

Runs the exact same as when the MAF is plugged in. And what I don't get is if I try to hook up the vacuum line that goes from the intake to the IACV-AAC, the RPMs jump up a couple hundred RPMs, the idle smooths out, and then she stalls.  

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I haven't been able to find any yet, but I'm going to check again tomorrow. 

 

But what's weird (and don't judge me on the intake, I just added the metal part to do some testing.) but that hose just hanging there, I think it runs back to the IACV-AAC.  If I leave it open like that, car starts and idles.  If I hook it up to the intake the way it should be, the RPMs jump up a little bit, the idle smooths out, then she dies and won't start.

 

382205_10200359650969748_1898756775_n.jp

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