Getting 120whp out of L20B

[dr.feltersnatch]

Use the search function and read as many build threads as you can. Most of your questions will be answered.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Now it's time for you to stop posting,make up your mind !!!!!!!!this is what I was thinking pages ago.

 

I think the best bet would find a Z22block and bolt a L20 head on. Byron510(on the 510Realm) did this with Junk yard parts and CLAIMED a 138 rear wheel dyno with SUs carbs and a 4.38 diff gear ratio.

 

as for the KA can us handle doing up a relay box(Jeffs CanAm box relays set and hook up wire harness)????? x memeber swapp. Even if motor was near free youll still be spending some money 1500-2000 got get Radiator fuel pumps, new clutch kit ect.. Unless all junk yard parts.

You kindof said you dought it that you can do it. So maybe a L based motor would be a a better start.

 

 

 

just bolt a 38/38 weber on there and youll be done

 

Of coarse this is all my opinion

[tubbedbaggedstockfloored65]

Ha

[datzenmike]

What is this engine going in???????

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/64357-king-cab-on-40s-i-think-so/ hopefully not this boat anchor.

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/64358-dinky-tugger/ a stock L20B would be crazy in this. 120 hp is twice the stock amount. You better start working of suspension and brakes first.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Have you done the in tank pump yet?

Just a pressure box. So far, so good.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Now it's time for you to stop posting,make up your mind and do the required research.Your topic title say 120 rear wheel HP.A KA will do this all day long with no drivability issues. I would have went this route but AC compressors won't fit a 620 frame.

But if he stops here, what will all of us do with our time?

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Final thoughts: life is too short to blow it all on one build. If the net result you are searching for is just a good driver that can get some when you want it, just make it a good runner with a modern EFI engine and be done with it. I believe that you can enjoy driving something more than you can enjoy talking about building it. This is something I try to emphasize to my customers. Build it, break it, fix it, repeat.

 

Go build it, drive it for a while and then, if you must, improve on it from there.

 

BTW- I appreciate all the props you've goven me on my work. For the record, the motor pic in my avitar is a 2200, it makes roughly 200hp and it would cost about $5K to build.

[Z-train]

Just a pressure box. So far, so good.

Bosch recommends the in tank pump as it delivers high volume at lower pressure(7 PSI-ish)it is supposed to eliminate any injector pump starvation issues which are a pump killer.And those cork-soakers are $2500 a piece.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I'm pretty sure your truck and my truck differ in that regard. Starting in 03 Dodge modified the system slightly to isolate the pressure pump a bit more. If I run dry at the lift pump, the pressure pump just shuts off not starving the pressure pump. If I do upgrade, I am going to use the FASS DD04 pump setup.

[tubbedbaggedstockfloored65]

What is this engine going in???????

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/64357-king-cab-on-40s-i-think-so/ hopefully not this boat anchor.

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/64358-dinky-tugger/ a stock L20B would be crazy in this. 120 hp is twice the stock amount. You better start working of suspension and brakes first.

Lol actually my 65 320 has an l20b and 4 speed sittin in bay , so I can figure out mounts and placement , I am looking forward to doing that build,

 

And the boat anchor as u no it has an l20b with ported head and intake and cannon single side draft intake with my old 45 dhoc carb with small cam in it and I hacked the back bed off to tub bed need to get clamps back from bud to hold in place while i weld it in

and already swapped out new leafs and bushings and when i get diesel for the ho im lifting cab off and takein 3 or so inches of mounts for ugly body at the same time adding more mounts tonprevent further idiocy

 

This motor will go in bakfire my first datsun and favorite

[tubbedbaggedstockfloored65]

Ill agree I love driving something after you've built ot or brought up up from nothing, and wow I fogured a lot more would be into that motor

[tubbedbaggedstockfloored65]

[tubbedbaggedstockfloored65]

I set l20 in the 320 just to see, motor in peices but still a good start on wat I need to do

[datzenmike]

Lol actually my 65 320 has an l20b and 4 speed sittin in bay , so I can figure out mounts and placement , I am looking forward to doing that build,

 

And the boat anchor as u no it has an l20b with ported head and intake and cannon single side draft intake with my old 45 dhoc carb with small cam in it and I hacked the back bed off to tub bed need to get clamps back from bud to hold in place while i weld it in

and already swapped out new leafs and bushings and when i get diesel for the ho im lifting cab off and takein 3 or so inches of mounts for ugly body at the same time adding more mounts tonprevent further idiocy

 

This motor will go in bakfire my first datsun and favorite

 

So what is it going in?

[tubbedbaggedstockfloored65]

My white datsun 620 with black hood

[datzenmike]

Well that won't be so bad. Was afraid it was going in a 3,400 pound 4x4

[DUBL ZERO]

Wow I have an actual Headache now !

 

I'm compelled to comment on how,"very patient" you guys are ! Bravo !

[tubbedbaggedstockfloored65]

Its alright I've got a headache as well,, alright well I had 2 l20s sent in to machine shop to have bored and tanked,

 

 

Wil post pics, what I was wondering is how to clearance grind block and cut down crank counteweights, can thatt be done or something for shop to do, anyone have write up on that

 

For the medium block 2.4 litre and stroker 2.3 litre .? Ones my l20s bored to 87 mm and others bored to 89mm for shits n giggles since I already have the ka pstons from buds rebuild that he bailed on

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

You should definitely have a shop do the cutting and grinding.

 

So you sent a block to the shop to be bored and you sent it with pistons, right? Sounds like you've decided on an engine combination then right?

[datzenmike]

Forget cutting the counterweights.

 

Get a Z24, rebuild to spec or over bore to the largest Z24 piston you can find (usually 1mm over) slap U67 L head on, modify the front timing case and lengthen timing chain 2 links, add L20B oil pan and pick up.... Done... Stroker L 2.4. With a 38/38 or side drafts easily 120 hp.

 

Cutting the counterweights and fitting to a shorter deck engine will shorten the rods too much.   

[tubbedbaggedstockfloored65]

I have an l20b bored to 89mm with ka24 pistons that's what I sent it, just gunna slap my u67 head and dual cannon intake and find some carbs and go from there

[datzenmike]

That's another good option. 2.3 liters

[tubbedbaggedstockfloored65]

Well some said don't do it some said they've done it, so I figured the ka pistoned l20b would be simpler with no huge mods other than boring and maybe some head and intake porting and I would really like to build a long rod 2.1 for revving but no matter how many times I read this over and over I'm not sure on things

 

 

One of the motors like I said is 89 mm and ka24e pistons going in and other is just being bored to 87 mm for the long rod 2.1

 

 

But I'm pretty much broke and fucked for moneys yayy

[nad015]

I think many in here in australia do the z24 crank and 89mm pistons in an l20b, do so for racing because the rules might state they need to use an l20b block , and for the street as they could get a 2.4 litre l20b in the datsun 510 without the need for and engineers certificate(except in nsw). But if they put a z24 in a 510 to have it legally road registered would be a major head f$&k, engineers cert, bigger brakes, upgrade suspension, you would need to match emissions for the engine, huge fees....bla bla bla. Just not wirth it for a z24.

 

He'll that's why I put a z24 crank in my l20b to get around the engineers cert.

 

If I could just put a z24 engine in my 510 and not deal with the crap we deal with here I would have done that for sure.

with a u67 head. And most important use the right size long rods.

 

Anyway you cut the crank counterweights down in a lathe, it cost me $200 bucks to have it done here.(the whole bottom end will need balancing of course after this.)

And the block mods are easy, I just ground a bit away with a die grinder so the rod bolts clear, pretty sure you could do it with a 100mm angle grinder aswell.

[datzenmike]

The only difference using a Z24 block is it's 2cm taller than the Z22/L20B so the L timing cover is too short. If very careful the timing cover can be sectioned and lengthened without it being noticeable. 

 

Here's my Z24 engine. It has the boss where the L series engine number ID is stamped. Get creative.