engine stand adapter

[mklotz70]

I don't remember if I posted pics of the start of this project before, but I finally got to put it into action. It works awesome!!

 

Basically, A100addict and I took a throw away 4spd and cut 2-3" off the end of the bellhousing. We milled it down even with the mounting flanges. The purpose was to hold the starter while the engine is on the stand.....so that compression tests and pre-lube can be done. Anyway..... :)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Bugeye]

very cool idea

[Pacific coast Datsun]

I love the circular saw ripping into the tranny...:lol: Very effective idea Mike!

[Cuts metal like mad]

HAHA! Right on man... I used to use part of a bellhousing to test compression on used motors from people I didn't know, just carry a starter, some cables, and a compression tester and never buy a blown motor again. :D

[mklotz70]

The sawzall and the airbody saw would barely move in the thick aluminum. The circular saw has a carbide blade in it....went through it like butter! You can do the same thing cutting aluminum on a table saw....it's just a bit harder on the bearings.

[Icehouse]

I like it Mike!!! Do you think you will run any engines on it? Know that would be a cool vid :D

[mklotz70]

Actually, I am planning on test running it on the stand.....or I'll make a test stand for it so that I can mount up a radiator and get it up to temp for a true test. ...hhhmmm....I suppose I could simply mount it up to the frame section I was using for the control arm mod :) I just might do that!

[AZhitman]

Brilliant!

[DISLEXICDIME]

i have a auto tranz bell housing i am saving to try this same thing with

[datzenmike]

i have a auto tranz bell housing i am saving to try this same thing with

 

Yes, I had the same thought, now that Mike has shown the way. L or Z should work, and they unbolt.

[mklotz70]

This one is short enough to work with the stand. I have an auto bell too that we just hooked up to the L20b on the 2nd version of test stand. It's even nicer to use since it allows the clutch to stay on and the starter bolts thread in instead of pass through.

 

Fired up the L20...runs pretty nice :) More on that later maybe.

[racerx]

necessity creates geniouses!:D

[fiveNdime]

Great Idea! But why didn't you cover the motor sitting next to you before you started throwing aluminum:eek:

[dat521gatherer]

good work mike.:)

[mklotz70]

Thanks.

Parts motor....I think the reground cam is the only thing I planned on keeping....and the tin.

[sr71sss]

wow I was just going to start throwing out my 3 4 spd transmission when I saw your post tonite, always good tips on here thanks a bunch.

 

anyone else needs one in the bay area I have 2 more transmissions that I don't plan to use?

 

conrad

[fisch]

Nice idea! I totally missed this! I wish I had an extra trans bell! I have one extra 4-speed trans, but it goes with the engine I just got, so I don't want to cut it up! These things are to hard to come by in New England to cut up my only extra!!

[Skib]

lol Id mail you one if it didnt cost so much, already gave one away to mike :lol: who promptly whipped out the saw and hacked its end off

[LCDC]

i've been wanting to set up the front of a truck frame to use for an engine test center and use a bell housing. I'll get around to it one of these days. but thats a great idea for testing motors and turning em over.

[72240z]

I'm so using this for one of the few useless 4 speeds I have hanging around. I just picked up a gen-u-ine gm dealer engine stand too (since someone walked off with my other).

 

The take cover makes a good stand for rebuilding trannys, just to throw that in there lol.

 

Fisch if I don't screw mine up your welcome to one.

[LCDC]

i'm taking back my cheapo engine stand I got from auto zone and having one built that has two legs instead of one, and i'm gonna have a crank of some sort made so i can crank the motor over to turn it sideways or upside down instead of having to pry the pin out and letting it go.

[mklotz70]

If you look at the pics of the eng on the stand...you can see that I drilled extra holes in the middle of the arms.....that's so I could mount the pivot point closer to the center of the engine's weight......not centered on the crankshaft. If you mount it so the pivot in at the crank, you'll have a ton of weight hanging out there when you try to rotate it.

 

Another thing that makes it easier is to mount the adapter to the back of the eng first.....get it where you want it and tighten the bolts. Then you just have to slip the stand part over the big tube on the adapter.....much easier to line up than trying to fight with the 4 arms :)