The forgotten Beige 69 510 build *Pics fixed through page 16*

[Draker]

Thread table of contents:

 

0-day: When I brought it home

Floors: Stripping Sound deadner

Floors: Sealed with Zero Rust

Fuel Line: New fuel line

Misc: Tranny swap, clutch, Body work, fuel filler, new seats

Engine: L20b Refresh

Seats: Reskinned Recaro's installed

Body: Quarter Repair  Part 2

Suspension: Lowered

Interior: 69 clock 

Engine: L20b Install,  Firing L20b

Misc: Clutch and Radiator

Fuel: New Carbs

Engine: L20b Cleanup and inspection

Interior: Custom Gauge Cluster

Engine #2: Second L20b Build

Edited January 21, 2021 by Draker

[Draker]

Some may have see my post in the 510 section about this car and a black dime I picked up. I figured I would start a build thread for this one as I will start trying to get this one back on the road first. Long story short, I found this car for sale and it's been stored in a barn since the 80's. It's got a few bruises but it's pretty rust free. The previous owner bought it and was starting to strip it to turn it into a race car. Bad news is they stripped out some of the 69 specific parts, good news is what is left is in good shape.

 

Here is the post in the 510 section:

Diamonds in the rough!

 

 

Wanted ad found here:

My shopping thread!

 

 

The day I purchased the car:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I got to work tonight on cleaning the floors up. I wanted to see what I was starting with here..

 

Before:

 

 

 

 

After:

 

 

There was a little bit of surface rust hiding under the sound insulation. Overall, it's just a few spots which I'll probably wire brush and spot treat. Then paint the entire floor. Not sure of the steps I am going to take to to do this exactly.. but for the rust spots I'll probably use some POR 15.

[Draker]

As far as removing the sound deadening.. I didn't move it over the trans tunnel as I figured there isn't going to be any rust under there.. My plan is to treat the floors and then apply some tite seal/fat mat/peal n seal... I would probably just go over the factory deadening on the tunnel. If there is any reason I shouldn't do that.. let me know. I'm sure there is no issues under the deadening material.

[jalen]

I like it :thumbsup:

[Laecaon]

as someone who has used pealnseal, just say no.

[Draker]

as someone who has used pealnseal, just say no.

 

Doesn't work good as a deadener or something else?

[Laecaon]

It can make your doors go thunk, but I didnt notice any difference in road noise. And that is about what my research on the topic has lead to. Also, if you ever need to remove it, get yourself a bottle vodka or something.

[freetheoranges]

Great lookin dime. Very very very unmolested.

[scooter stuff]

I got to work tonight on cleaning the floors up. I wanted to see what I was starting with here..

 

Before:

 

 

 

 

After:

 

 

There was a little bit of surface rust hiding under the sound insulation. Overall, it's just a few spots which I'll probably wire brush and spot treat. Then paint the entire floor. Not sure of the steps I am going to take to to do this exactly.. but for the rust spots I'll probably use some POR 15.

I would paint the entire floor with Zero rust.

[Draker]

I would paint the entire floor with Zero rust.

 

I think I'll take your advice. Gonna clean it up with a wire wheel and some acetone.

[Draker]

A few new pictures. I picked up this seat locally. Here is what it looked like when I got it.

 

 

 

Here it is with a little leather/vinyl conditioner on it and a little elbow grease.

 

 

[Z chopper]

can't tell by your picks but do you need a door with black or stainless verticle trim for the rear door as I have 2 sets of rear doors one set has stainless the other has black

[Draker]

It's stainless. I'd be interested but I'm afraid shipping will be horrendous.

 

can't tell by your picks but do you need a door with black or stainless verticle trim for the rear door as I have 2 sets of rear doors one set has stainless the other has black

[Z chopper]

ya shipping would be scarey

[Laecaon]

Are 4dr and wagon pieces the same? I really want stainless ones. Like really want.

[Tristin]

Front doors are the same, but rear doors are different.

[Z chopper]

though since it looks like I might be parting out my 510 I can strip down the one set of doors and remove the stainless strips, but if your doors already have the stainless strip I can tell you how to remove it to transfer over.

[Laecaon]

Front doors are the same, but rear doors are different.

 

Front doors dont have the window divider...

 

We are talking about the vertical trim between the quarter windows and door window. 68/69 is Stainless, 70+ is Black.

[Tristin]

But you asked if the 4dr and wagon doors were the same... The rears are different regardless of year.

[Draker]

Actually.. Fronts differ a bit as well. There is a post on here that shows the difference. I believe the difference was the window frame height. They do fit, but the window frame is shorter. I believe the post was from Mklotz with pics and measurements to boot.

[Tristin]

That's weird that they would be different. It only makes sense tooling wise to be the same for b-pillar forward for all 510s.

[DatWifey]

We had a goon front pass door on our 4-door and it wouldn't open when I installed a set of racks on the car.  It was just slightly taller.  Weird, but true.  Worked fine without the racks on though.

[Guest 510kamikazifreak]

I always thought 4 door and goon doors(front) were the same, but it turns out goon doors are about 1/4 or so of an inch taller

[Tristin]

Straight stupid... Learn something new everyday.

[SupDoc]

This car is in great shape, those floor pans look awesome!  I would kill to have ones that were half as good.  Mine are so rusted, I'll be replacing all 4 sections.