Bleach Posted May 10, 2007 Report Share Posted May 10, 2007 is Ryan drinking the SoBe that I left at his place? :D Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted May 10, 2007 Report Share Posted May 10, 2007 yep thats the same thing I had to do to my 521 mount. Did you make yours a solid mount? It looks like you welded the mounting surface to the bolting surface. Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted May 10, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2007 Bleach, that was a "special" mix sobe he mixed himself...:cool: Jeff, ya i suppose the mount is a bit more rigid now but i think it'll work. I was gonna go with some angle iron but it was quicker to use the JDM mount...:D Didnt get a pic but i noticed now that the slave cyl. hose is kinked against the torsion bar,damm! I may have to go with a smaller hose,maybe braided. Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted May 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2007 One step closer to completion. I welded a piece of metal on the end of the flange & ground it down clean. No fluid can escape now, i hope. Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted May 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2007 Here we go again,i got it all put back together & turned the key..........heard a noise coming from the starter area! Almost sounds like the cover plate scraping against the flywheel. Ill pull the starter today & see if it's bent at all which isnt likely & or the starter gear may be worn...but it did fire right up & run great before the trans. swap. Any ideas guys?? Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted May 16, 2007 Report Share Posted May 16, 2007 Try hitting the clutch just to see if it changes. O what slave are you using? the car slaves face the torsion bar the trucks face the engine... (I've had a few beers :D so double check anything I say) Quote Link to comment
tangent Posted May 16, 2007 Report Share Posted May 16, 2007 When I bolted my 280zx 5 speed up to my L20.. it had some issues with the starter.. I shimmed it with some washers....seems like it was quite a bit too like 3/16ths or so.. Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted May 16, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2007 Thanks guys. I got the truck back on the road yesterday & drove it to work today. No vibrations that i can tell, but i did notice fluid leaking from the rear of the trans. Guess I need to replace the rubber seal..ahhh gotta take it back apart..:o Jeff i noticed that the Z slave hose was kinking against the torsion bar so i used the one off the 4 speed. Had to use the slave push rod off the 4 speed cause the Z one was an inch longer. Tangent how many & what size shims did you use? The noise is deff. coming from the starter & dont want to tear it up. Oh & BTW i couldnt get the square plug off to fill the trans., so i pulled a diamond shaped cover plate on the opposite side & filled from there. Ill get pics of that..soon! Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted May 18, 2007 Report Share Posted May 18, 2007 nice to hear you got it in :) Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 18, 2007 Report Share Posted May 18, 2007 Are you useing synthetic in it? When you change the seal try to tilt the truck up in the back and have a rag handy to keep the fluid in. Mine started to leak as soon as I put synthitic in, a new $6 seal fixed it. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 18, 2007 Report Share Posted May 18, 2007 I believe its more common to use the gear reduction starter(280zx trans) So you dont have the interfearance proplem. GR starters dont have the Nose hitting the bellhousing Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted May 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2007 I used regular gear oil,85 w 90. And yeah ill jack up from the rear to save the fluid. Thanks hainz,ill price the GR starters & probably go with 1 of those. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted May 18, 2007 Report Share Posted May 18, 2007 Glad to hear it's on the road :D The GR starters are a couple $ extra ;) Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 19, 2007 Report Share Posted May 19, 2007 I used regular gear oil,85 w 90. And yeah ill jack up from the rear to save the fluid. Thanks hainz,ill price the GR starters & probably go with 1 of those. Forgot to mention that the synthetic is slipery(er) and will flow through worn seals where the 90W won't. The trans shifted smoother and seemed to CLICK into gear better. Because it's 'thinner', cold weather shifting is much better. Some people mix auto trans fluid with their 90W oil, but I don't know, I don't think it protects as well under load. Hot or cold weather, it would be better protected if you use synthetic 90W, IMHO. Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted May 20, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2007 Ok i priced a GR starter today,$129 ouch! May get a JY GR starter instead. I also had to order the trans. rear seal,$11 not too bad i just have to wait 3 days. Quote Link to comment
mklotz70 Posted May 21, 2007 Report Share Posted May 21, 2007 I've heard of the auto trans fluid in the gearbox too, but I thought that it was only temporary to clean it. I wouldn't leave it in there either. I did switch Paula's to synthetic.....shifts much nicer!! The syncros don't drag as much, so I don't get the grinding when it cold. Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted May 24, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2007 Ok i picked up the rear trans. seal today, Beck Arnley part # 052-1328. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 24, 2007 Report Share Posted May 24, 2007 Ok i priced a GR starter today,$129 ouch! May get a JY GR starter instead. I also had to order the trans. rear seal,$11 not too bad i just have to wait 3 days. Go with the J/Y starter. Couple of years ago I threw 3-4 away. Today I have an L28, L20B, 2 L20B GR, a Z series GR and have a Z GR on my L20B but it's a tight fit against the block. I think they breed!! This summer I'll put the L28 one on. Really like the loud CHIRRRP, CHIRRRP, varoooom when it starts. Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted June 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2007 Well lucky me i get to put the 521 back on stands...im still getting a fluid leak! LOOKS like it's still coming from the rear part of the flange where it mates to the front shaft. I saw it slinging from there while on a test drive, im hoping i didnt get a defective rear seal..:mad: Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted June 5, 2007 Report Share Posted June 5, 2007 Wait... you changed transmissions, right? You put the 521 flange on a 5-speed? You have to weld up the bolt hole from the flange; the oil runs down the splines. The non-flange slip yokes are sealed, but the flange type use that big bolt to seal it. Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted June 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2007 Yeah Doug i used the flange off the 4 speed on the 5 speed. I did weld up the hole & after i pulled it out again today i saw a few pinholes that i welded up. I did notice that the seal i just replaced last week was damaged & had to come out. Im guessing that the flange is pushed too far into the trans. due to the fact that i didnt shorten the front shaft enough...:( i need to get rid of the gap between the shaft & flange.... the inside of the flange now has grooves,it's rubbing against the rear of the trans... heres where it's touching...inside the R of the trans... whats left of the seal..it did get a bit tore up when i removed it but it was noticeably damaged... Ok i know i need to shorten the shaft a bit more which is no big deal...? is does anybody have a pic of thier trans. to driveshaft gap? I guess the flange needs to be able to travel back & forth a bit...how much should i shorten the front shaft? Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted June 5, 2007 Report Share Posted June 5, 2007 Being that the normal trans slip yoke has an external dust shield, you really wouldn't know the gap from a photo. Maybe you need to put a stop spacer inside to keep the flange away from the seal. Quote Link to comment
tangent Posted June 5, 2007 Report Share Posted June 5, 2007 That or get rid of the flange... I've had a couple Driveshafts in my 521 the first one looked more like yours.. the new one has a dust shield.. but I can tell you It looks like it is too close if you cant remove the flange, your going to have to shorten the driveshaft. Quote Link to comment
Pacific coast Datsun Posted June 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2007 Yeah Doug i see what you mean about not being able to see the gap. I have a 1 piece shaft w/ the dust shield you guys mentioned thats the same length as the 2 piece which may work. Or i suppose i could cut the front of the 1 piece off & weld it to the front part of the 2 piece along w/ shortening it a bit.What i may do too is grind off the small "lip" that son the front part of the front shaft...it used to "rest" inside of the flange when it had the bolt there & it's not needed now, that'll give me a little movement. I like the stop spacer idea too, would a few washers work? Jeez this was supposed to be an easy swap...:rolleyes: Quote Link to comment
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