dr.feltersnatch Posted January 11, 2013 Report Share Posted January 11, 2013 i agree vacuum advance wont cause sooty plugs but it will cause it to not run right. Quote Link to comment
bloodontheapex Posted January 11, 2013 Report Share Posted January 11, 2013 Have sooty plugs been confirmed? Quote Link to comment
barricade88 Posted January 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2013 I don't know about the points but I have been running rich and last time I changedy plugs they were white and kind Of black. And my timing is dead on. And my vacuum advance is backwards.. It's towards the block. It needs to be rotated 180 degrees. And my ignition is electric I believe. And my points. I have no idea.. Is anyone near Vancouver WA?! Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 12, 2013 Report Share Posted January 12, 2013 I don't know about the points but I have been running rich and last time I changedy plugs they were white and kind Of black. And my timing is dead on. And my vacuum advance is backwards.. It's towards the block. It needs to be rotated 180 degrees. And my ignition is electric I believe. And my points. I have no idea.. Is anyone near Vancouver WA?! I would like to come over there and just check everything timing wise. Quote Link to comment
dr.feltersnatch Posted January 12, 2013 Report Share Posted January 12, 2013 good on ya wayno! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 12, 2013 Report Share Posted January 12, 2013 I need to decide wether or not I should buy this Nissan truck and put the z24 motor and rear end in my 78 Datsun 620. I have an original l20b in it but want better performance and better mpg. What should I do? I'm paying $500 for the truck and 600 for labor. Ill get some back when I scrap the truck. Is this a good deal or what. I'm 18 and need to know what is best. Thank you Stick with your motor. Best mileage is from a small motor. The Z24 will be a bit faster but not $1,100 faster. You won't get shit for an old 720 without a motor trans and rear end in it. BTW 5,000 in 4th gear in a '78 620 with stock tires is 80.44 MPH. Stop obsessing about RPMs when you don't have a tach to measure them. The L20B will run at 6,000 for weeks as long as it has water, gas and oil in it. You can't blow them up. Yeah, timing is dead on, carb was brand new, an I have a 140 in it an bills Datsun in Clackamas out a 117 and it ran a little better for the co2 or CO but the bogging continued. And it's running very rich. I had gas in my oil. And yeah wayno I can swing by tomorrow Bill? Bill's Datsun? Never heard anything good about this dude. Stay away and save your money. 38/38 is too big for a stock L20B motor. It will work but you will have to step into it slowly or it will bog. The outlaw carb is for small V6s. Everyone thinks if a big carb will make a motor run better then a huge carb will make it run 10X better.... and it doesn't. The stock Hitachi is best. A 32/36 weber is slightly better for performance, not as good for mileage. I don't know about the points but I have been running rich and last time I changedy plugs they were white and kind Of black. And my timing is dead on. And my vacuum advance is backwards.. It's towards the block. It needs to be rotated 180 degrees. And my ignition is electric I believe. And my points. I have no idea.. Is anyone near Vancouver WA?! You don't have points you have an electronic distributor known as a remote igniter. 'plugs that were white and kind of black'????? Doesn't matter where your vacuum advance module is pointing, if it works... it works. 1 Quote Link to comment
barricade88 Posted January 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2013 Il lcheck my vacuum advance.. And datzenmike: my plugs were white but had black soot on them Quote Link to comment
bloodontheapex Posted January 12, 2013 Report Share Posted January 12, 2013 Just rebuild the stock carb and put it back on... Quote Link to comment
converted_to_datsun Posted January 12, 2013 Report Share Posted January 12, 2013 A rebuild kit for the stock carb is 20 at auto zone. I rebuilt mine in an hour on my kitchen table. Make sure to clean the two halves with carb cleaner. My stock carb works good and I get good mpg's Quote Link to comment
its_karl Posted January 12, 2013 Report Share Posted January 12, 2013 if you have gas in your oil, it might be coming in through the mechanical fuel pump. Quote Link to comment
barricade88 Posted January 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2013 My stock carb was doing this. That's why I put a new one in. And I sold it. And yeah I'm running really rich and have gas in my oil. And should I do something to my fuel pump? An my Grampa said to check my distributor that's probably the problem. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 13, 2013 Report Share Posted January 13, 2013 The distributor cannot leak gas into the oil. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 13, 2013 Report Share Posted January 13, 2013 If I could come over there, or you came over here, we could likely figure a lot of this out inside an hour, and maybe do something about some of it. Quote Link to comment
barricade88 Posted January 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2013 I know. I'm talking about the backfiring. Maybe my vac advance isn't working or my weights aren't returning. And okay Wayno ill call or txt you or something Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 13, 2013 Report Share Posted January 13, 2013 should take advantage of Waynos help key is be on time and be there.Nothing pissing the main players(datsunMechanics that are willing to help) on here of flakes not showing up Quote Link to comment
barricade88 Posted January 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2013 Yeah I know. I'm going to, I need all the help I need, thank you everyone for the replies and info! I really appreciate it Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 14, 2013 Report Share Posted January 14, 2013 He came by the house today, I looked over the engine, timing wise the cam and distributor were good, but the vacuum advance was shot, some of the valves were a bit tight but I loosened them, but nothing to cause his issue, I forgot to check the timing itself, but otherwise everything looked good. When floored it falls on it's face, and then back fires through the carb. The vacuum advance is a leak right now, not a big leak, but it is a leak, I cannot recall ever when timing an engine and forgetting to put the vacuum hose back on, that an engine ever acted like this, so I would say the leak isn't causing the issue other than it doesn't likely work correctly, so it doesn't advance correctly when given the gas abruptly, can this cause the issue he has described? He has an EI distributor, just not the matchbox type I am used to, he has the type that has the box in the cab by the passengers right knee. I took a couple photos of his 620. 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 14, 2013 Report Share Posted January 14, 2013 > The vacuum advance is a leak right now Simple - just plug the hose. It will run good with it plugged. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 14, 2013 Report Share Posted January 14, 2013 All 1978 USA Datsuns had the remote ignitor distributor. It is a VERY GOOD unit. > it doesn't advance correctly when given the gas abruptly, can this cause the issue he has described? Vacuum advance cannot cause extremely rich running and when not working cannot cause backfires. Mechanical advance can cause backfires. Remove the distributor cap and with two fingers, see if you can turn the rotor. It should not move with light pressure. If on the other hand it flops back and forth, then the springs are busted down in the distributor. Quote Link to comment
barricade88 Posted January 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 I bought a new distributor. It's a matchbox. What's supposed to be in it. Now I just need to time it right and dial in the carb correctly. But after changing my distributor, it ran great!!! But still kinda dies but the carb needs to be adjusted. And I think I should put the old jet bak in. I had a 140 in it but right now it's a 130 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 20, 2013 Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 I bought a new distributor. It's a matchbox. What's supposed to be in it. Now I just need to time it right and dial in the carb correctly. But after changing my distributor, it ran great!!! But still kinda dies but the carb needs to be adjusted. And I think I should put the old jet bak in. I had a 140 in it but right now it's a 130 You have a timing light? I do if you don't, come on over if you want, just call first to make sure I will be here. I don't know much about downdraft carbs though. Quote Link to comment
barricade88 Posted January 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 Yeah I got one. Doesn't the timing have to be between 9 and 10? Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 20, 2013 Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 Yeah I got one. Doesn't the timing have to be between 9 and 10? According to my manual, it is 12B which I assume is 12 before, but 9-10 isn't going to hurt it. Reading the manual, I just realized that I have been setting my plug gap wrong for my entire datsun life/ownership, I have always gapped them at about 32-35, I just read it's supposed to be 41, I wonder what issues that has caused me all these years. Quote Link to comment
barricade88 Posted January 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 Haha okay ill check it cuz my timing is at 10 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 21, 2013 Report Share Posted January 21, 2013 I bought a new distributor. It's a matchbox. What's supposed to be in it. Now I just need to time it right and dial in the carb correctly. But after changing my distributor, it ran great!!! But still kinda dies but the carb needs to be adjusted. And I think I should put the old jet bak in. I had a 140 in it but right now it's a 130 The primary jet is around 100 the secondary about 160.... or is this a weber??? Quote Link to comment
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