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Bagged and Boosted 71 4dr 510


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your going to have to box in the lower control arm and add a plate behind the strut tube cut out the front uni body/ fender well then reinforce it with dome basically like a tube frame and weld a plate to the tube that connects the fire wall ti the strut mount.

 

in less there is a easy way

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why not use a bag to replace the spring or somthing like that. as you would still have the rigidity of the shock/strut inside the bag basically like shockwaves. Aslong as the bag is not a larger diametre than the coil spring even when aired out you shouldn't have a problem, but if worried about rubbing do a case around the bag that is a slight larger ID than the OD of the bag.

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that idea is really just a convoluted version of the can your already using...

 

also, unless you running some crazy offset wheels, wheres that pipe going to fit with the tire in there?

 

overall, i think juice in the front is really the only way on a 510..

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ok i might have an idea for you it is going to take some modding but you like that kinda of stuff. my mk4 vw i had bagged i ran air ride strut up front they look like this you should be able to find some on the forums for cheap somewhere around 300

air023.jpg

as you see they are alot small bag diameter then bag over coil setup the strut is shorter then the the stock 510 strut by alittle more then a inch shorter almost matching a zx strut height. The bottom has a good 3 inches before the damper adjustment so i suggest cut the strut tube then get a sleeve like how they adapt the 240sx coilover to the 280z and such. The one thing is welding the two together but i believe they are rebuildable so you could strip it down then weld and rebuild from there

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I was gonna say. VWs do it all day long. And most of those have MacPherson struts. Also what about people who bag 240sx's? That has to be similar for the front.

 

As for the back with that coilover replace bag going where the stock shock is, it is not designed for spring forces on it, so you must reinforce this area. It has been covered a few times.

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The biggest difference with a 240sx (and I think the vw as well) is that the strut body sits back from the hub on brackets, rather than the tube sitting right on top of the balljoint. This allows more clearance for the backside of the wheel to prevent it rubbing against the coil or airbag...

If you're running wheels with negative offset you may have no troubles, except of course where the wheel meets the fender at full drop.

I'll measure up some bags we have at the shop tomorrow so you guys can compare them to the space available.

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the cleance with the strut vw bag should work with the rims most run today. As you see the marks on the strut that is were a 17 by 9in wheel hit it once and you even can pull the top hat off and use camber plates i believe im pretty sure.My coils im run on my datsun also ran on the vw im running 280zx rims now with clearance to spare.

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I would also say to actually get a 510 low, you are using no more than a 14 inch wheel. My 185/60/14 tires dont rub my spring perch and they are pretty low on the strut tube. I just cant imagine you need to mount the bag low on the strut and come anywhere near your tire.

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ok i might have an idea for you it is going to take some modding but you like that kinda of stuff. my mk4 vw i had bagged i ran air ride strut up front they look like this you should be able to find some on the forums for cheap somewhere around 300

air023.jpg

as you see they are alot small bag diameter then bag over coil setup the strut is shorter then the the stock 510 strut by alittle more then a inch shorter almost matching a zx strut height. The bottom has a good 3 inches before the damper adjustment so i suggest cut the strut tube then get a sleeve like how they adapt the 240sx coilover to the 280z and such. The one thing is welding the two together but i believe they are rebuildable so you could strip it down then weld and rebuild from there

 

I like those... and you say i could pick up a set for around 300? not to spendy either... hmmm and you agree there strong enough? i dont have a problem with welding.. or making em work, and they look smaller then the canisters i have now so they should clear my tires.. anyone else see any potential problems with them?

 

edit: how much adjustiablity is there in them? from 0psi to filled up?

 

For those who were questioning tristans design, the idea is the sleeve that holds the bag gives the ridgity and doesnt allow the bag to move all over the place, so no its not quite the same as the canisters i have now.

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Is that picture with the front at 0psi? If thats how low youre going to be, I might keep my coilover setup for ease and just run bags in the rear. Im going to keep watching this thread though... as you stated Spud, theres a bunch of good info here.

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do you happen to know the lenght of the stock strut to your air setup now

 

Ill have to measure it when i have the wheel off tomorrow.

 

Is that picture with the front at 0psi? If thats how low youre going to be, I might keep my coilover setup for ease and just run bags in the rear. Im going to keep watching this thread though... as you stated Spud, theres a bunch of good info here.

 

Currently thats aired out, however thats not as low as im going to be! i need a different air setup in the front before i can go lower. i could go lower now, but then my tire rubs the canister. or get different tires, or run spacers and do a slight pull, but everyone says the canisters suck so ill put that money into new struts.

 

My goal for now is to finish the trunk, it needs lots of cleanup. and i want 4 wheel control. then i want a new strut setup for the front, once i have that, ill get another inch out of the rear, another 2 out of the front, and be pretty dam low. then some smaller tires and bam should look good.

 

Other things on my to do list: figure out how i can run a front sway bar, build a center console and mount all my switches and gauges in it. tuck my exhaust for when i go lower (its on the ground now when im aired out)

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OK, here's some information on the Universal Air AeroSport airbags:

 

http://universalairsuspension.com/_images/support/bagstrut.pdf

 

From their website:

 

"Designed for to slip over your Factory/Performance Struts. (Pressure tube must be less then 2.14 in Diameter)

 

4.0" Compressed

9.25" Extended

5.875" Diameter

 

Bags made from Synthetic rubber to be resistant against Oil and breakdown that will ruin Natural Rubber."

 

So, if your wheels are offset enough to clear this bag, then it's a viable option. However, if it has to sit above the wheel for clearance you're not going to be happy with the drop.

 

I'll hunt down some measurements on the Air Lift kits in just a bit!

 

I also remembered something that people tried back in the day- your results may vary, though! Some folks took a standard airbag (Firestone or ContiTech- gotta have steel top and bottom plates), and cut holes top and bottom for the strut to pass through. Then they'd weld the bottom plate to the strut housing and the top to the strut shaft- carefully, to make an airtight seal. Voila- instant strut bag!The downsides, as I recall, were air leaks at the welds, and occasionally the air from the airbag forcing the oil out of the strut and into the bag... Might be fun to try on a cheap bag and an old strut, though- used Firestone bags show up on eBay all the time for around $30 each!

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OK, here's some information on the Universal Air AeroSport airbags:

 

http://universalairs...rt/bagstrut.pdf

 

From their website:

 

"Designed for to slip over your Factory/Performance Struts. (Pressure tube must be less then 2.14 in Diameter)

 

4.0" Compressed

9.25" Extended

5.875" Diameter

 

Bags made from Synthetic rubber to be resistant against Oil and breakdown that will ruin Natural Rubber."

 

So, if your wheels are offset enough to clear this bag, then it's a viable option. However, if it has to sit above the wheel for clearance you're not going to be happy with the drop.

 

I'll hunt down some measurements on the Air Lift kits in just a bit!

 

I also remembered something that people tried back in the day- your results may vary, though! Some folks took a standard airbag (Firestone or ContiTech- gotta have steel top and bottom plates), and cut holes top and bottom for the strut to pass through. Then they'd weld the bottom plate to the strut housing and the top to the strut shaft- carefully, to make an airtight seal. Voila- instant strut bag!The downsides, as I recall, were air leaks at the welds, and occasionally the air from the airbag forcing the oil out of the strut and into the bag... Might be fun to try on a cheap bag and an old strut, though- used Firestone bags show up on eBay all the time for around $30 each!

 

Now theres an interesting idea... thats what im talking about! im trying to think of a way to keep the air in the bag and not allow it into the strut. meybe an oring? hmmm

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