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What are the pros and pons of switching carburetors?


Sierra

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My goal is to restore my 1978 B210 to its original as much as I can, but I been having trouble with my carburetor. The previous owner did some weird stuff to all the air vents and I don’t know what goes where anymore. I been thinking of witching the original carb to a weber since everyone tells me is better and a lot less problematic. I would love know the pros and cons from all of you.

 

 

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Turbo. Itty, bitty, turbo. And then, itty bitty ITB's.

 

Dat, isn't there a smaller (OLD) Weber? I'm certain there is some sort of solution to a smaller engine. I know a 32/36 does perfectly fine on an L16, millions of them out there. Is there that big of a gap besides that .2 liter?

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I think it's a bit big for the L16 (just slightly) or the secondaries come in too soon. I found they had a slight flat spot if floored off idle. An L20B at 6K needs about 210 CFM

 

The 32/36 is about 270 CFM .

 

An L16 only needs 169CFM at 6K.

 

 

A large (but not too large) carb favors very high RPM performance but not slow speed as there isn't sufficient air flow to properly draw in fuel.

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Dunno if it's a big enough difference to matter, but I ran a 32/36 Weber on my A15. Straight piped, ported H85(Ithink?) head and a fresh top end rebuild. Also had MSD ign all around.

 

It revved like an indy car, but idled like shit when it was cold. Could never get it to idle right when it was cold.

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pons or cons

I have a 32/36 weber on my 1200 it came as a kit with adapter plate air cleaner just bolt it on

not sure if it is jetted smaller or not but it came as a kit for the 1200

It runs great

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Pros: Per Weber, 32/36 is well-suited to engines from 1200-2300ccs. It will give more performance over 5000 RPM than the stock A14 carburetor. New carburetor = not worn out.

 

Pons: Just as hard to get a replacement carburetor tuned correctly. Cost $300 for a new weber jetted for the A14, while the one you have cost nothing to fix. Fuel economy will suffer compared to stock carb (assuming both are running well). Used Weber = worn out. Used Weber = not setup for A14 (most are not even setup well for L-series).

 

The vent hoses on the stock A14 carburetor are ... none. You might have the altitude compensated version which has three extra hoses. All the other hoses on the stock carb are for 1) vacuum advance 2) egr 3) charcoal canister purge. All the other vent hoses are for the fuel tank. I can walk you through the hose problem. Just need to know if it is CAL, CAN or FED emissions (will be on the underhood sticker). Pics would help, or I can provide pics of what it should be.

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Since you are in California- I think that the emissions guys look at your engine to verify that you have the factory stock carb or you won't pass (any car after 1975).

Even if your Webber would pass the emissions (actual gas test) it will fail since it isn't "original equipment", unless they have changed that which I doubt.

BillM

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Okay, okay I was trigger happy and I misspelled "Cons".

What are the pros and cons (positive and negative aspects) of switching from stock carburetor to a Weber Carburetor.

It sounds that should just stay with the Stock carburetor.

Thanks everyone for your input specially to BillM and ggzilla.

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I would be interested in some more info on the topic of vacuum lines.

 

I also have a '78, auto with CAL emissions. No egr.

 

I have access to Mitchell vintage and have the printout for my car. But, its a bit hard to decode in a 2 dimensional picture.

 

My air pump and cat are not installed.

 

Mainly the thermactor valve and altitude crap I would like to get squared away.

 

Car runs like a top but only gets ~25 mpg average. I think it should be better.

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My goal is to restore my 1978 B210 to its original as much as I can, but I been having trouble with my carburetor. The previous owner did some weird stuff to all the air vents and I don’t know what goes where anymore. I been thinking of witching the original carb to a weber since everyone tells me is better and a lot less problematic. I would love know the pros and cons from all of you.

 

Since this is my stock answer to this question... :P

 

If you can find a Datsun 1200 carburetor, it's a bolt-on for your intake, it is infinitely simpler than the late B210 carb, the stock air cleaner fits on it perfectly, and they are usually cheap. Even seen rebuilt ones on ebay from time to time for cheap.

 

And they seem to be almost indestructible. I've taken 1200 carbs that sat for 10 years, put them on a B210 and they worked perfectly right off.

 

I should also tell you it's VERY important to put the B210 carb jets into the 1200 carb. Takes about 30 seconds once both carbs are off and on the bench next to each other.

 

Once the swap is done, no one will ever know you did it.

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  • 2 months later...

I find all of this very interesting. My car has a weber on it now, bought it that way. the number on it is L9441. Have no idea what that means. The stock carb was laying inside the car. My car idles ok, a little temperamental to start, but once she fires off she runs and idles just fine. After about half throttle she starts fartin and poppin. Im waiting for the boneheads at O'Reillys to call me back about a rebuild it. I tell ya what though, even sick its pretty torquey.

 

I do have a spare 32/36 weber I took off a volkswagen/toyota abortion I picked up for junk this summer. I only grabbed the carb because the clearly homemade "adapter plate" was a crude hunk of aluminum someone attacked with a jigsaw.

 

One other thing worthy of note...the weber on my car has a very sexy plastic air cleaner adapter to use the stock air cleaner...kinda cool

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