INDY510 Posted January 13, 2012 Report Share Posted January 13, 2012 I tried running motor without thermostat didn't make a difference This part got me confused!!!!!!!! It should have ran cold Isn't 160* cold for an L-motor??? ..... . my old L20b had a 170* thermostat ........ .. but I thought L16's use a 185-190* thermostat?? either way, the goal isn't to have the motor fluctuate in temperature over 20-30* between sitting idle and freeway driving... my L16 stays at 190* no matter what The car has always ran cool before this, 150* driving around on the freeway 70mph temps on backroad/giving throttle 2500-3500rpm's are 160-170... just under 180 idling in the garage. If you've decided 160*-170* is optimum operating temperature for your motor (which I don't think it is) ... . then why doesn't the fan kick on in the garage?? .. imagine on a hot day in traffic .. :blink: why don't you have a stock fan? ,,, that would be your best option, with a stock radiator "re-cored" to 3 cores Your radiator and fan should keep the motor more than cool enough in any weather,,, the thermostat keeps the motor at the right temperature 1 Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted January 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2012 Yes, that was to address the two quotes about th by-pass and vac advance. I will test this next time I can.. Isn't 160* cold for an L-motor??? ..... . my old L20b had a 170* thermostat ........ .. but I thought L16's use a 185-190* thermostat?? .... either way, the goal isn't to have the motor fluctuate in temperature over 20-30* between sitting idle and freeway driving Yeah I awlays thought it ran cool... has a 180* t-stat water temps are always 160-170 .. If you've decided 160*-170* is optimum operating temperature for your motor (which I don't think it is) ... . then why doesn't the fan kick on in the garage?? .. imagine on a hot day in traffic ..:blink: <br style="color: rgb(28, 40, 55); font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px; background-color: rgb(250, 251, 252); "><br style="color: rgb(28, 40, 55); font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px; background-color: rgb(250, 251, 252); ">why don't you have a stock fan? ,,, that would be your best option with a stock radiator "re-core" to 3 cores<br style="color: rgb(28, 40, 55); font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px; background-color: rgb(250, 251, 252); "><br style="color: rgb(28, 40, 55); font-size: 13px; line-height: 19px; background-color: rgb(250, 251, 252); ">Your radiator and fan should keep the motor more than cool enough in any weather,,, the thermostat keeps the motor at the right temperature Never said optimal .. I only say this is what it runs at. Do you suggest I put a 190* or 200* t-stat in? What temp should L series run at? 180* constant? I have done hot day in traffic... sitting in line for the bay bridge idling for like 20 minutes, no problem 180* solid .. I went on a rampage to the car store buying parts... I ended up with a 78 510 pump which does not fit the stock fan, I'm going to order a new pump and get the setup sorted soon. When I realized the stock fan would not fit I was just like $@*& went to car store bought elect fan wired up with a relay... I know it was silly, but I had lost patience and ended up with an elaborate non functional setup... Why go back to stock rad? I have fiero rad.. Nothing is setup for stock rad.. I hope you mean an in-line thermo-switch ,, , and not a toggle switch, right??? ...... .. why don't you have a stock fan?? .. that would be the best option Uh well I was going to wire up a toggle temporarily until I get a proper thermometer switch setup .. im planning to get a thermo-switch so the fan comes on when needed.. 1 Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted January 13, 2012 Report Share Posted January 13, 2012 I believe 180 is stock... My car wouldnt even warm up with a 165 if it was cold out side (had to drive around with the choke on). 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 13, 2012 Report Share Posted January 13, 2012 Stock L20B is 180 with 190 for arctic and 170 for tropical use. If your cooling system is working properly your gauge should read about half way up the NORMAL RUN RANGE. Mine always read about 1/3. I've had one that would go to the top of the run range drop to the cool range, up to the top back down 3-4 more times until it stabilized in the run range. (got rid of that one) My 710 L18 sedan would barely come up one needle width when I got it. It was stuck open, I replaced with a $12 NAPA that ran on the top of the run range solid, never moved. Replaced it with one I found in the back yard and now runs just over 1/3 of the range. So don't trust new ones either. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted January 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2012 Stock L20B is 180 with 190 for arctic and 170 for tropical use. If your cooling system is working properly your gauge should read about half way up the NORMAL RUN RANGE. Mine always read about 1/3. I've had one that would go to the top of the run range drop to the cool range, up to the top back down 3-4 more times until it stabilized in the run range. (got rid of that one) My 710 L18 sedan would barely come up one needle width when I got it. It was stuck open, I replaced with a $12 NAPA that ran on the top of the run range solid, never moved. Replaced it with one I found in the back yard and now runs just over 1/3 of the range. So don't trust new ones either. My stock gauge is completely broken, I am using an autometer electric short sweep ... water temp like 160 on freeway, 180 sitting, 170-ish on backroads .. 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted January 13, 2012 Report Share Posted January 13, 2012 I run 160 in my 510s and my truck I got a heater line to manifold and run a 180 and its fine rite now but its winter. Could have went up to 192 or 195 . seems you got it fixed,dont worry about it. Some eletric fan have a adjustable set up to when the fan kicks in( and a reostat or Pot) 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 13, 2012 Report Share Posted January 13, 2012 The L-series will run fine and last with 160 to 195 thermostats. Your choice. The engine itself doesn't care, it will run just fine for years at 220 degrees if your cooling system is in good shape and has a good cap like the Nismo high-pressure radator cap. The optimal is 180 as that keeps the oil at the designed operating temp for oil making it last longer and lubricating best. But hotter temp will will make the heater work better, and the radiator more efficient. You could always add an oil cooler to get the best of both worlds. Yes the carb for a stock engine is tuned for 170-190 degrees -- and with heated air intake air cleaner. This doesn't stifle performance because it is vacuum powered. When you floor it, vacuum drops and only the cold air intake is used (along with the power valve to compensate). 1 Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted January 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 I run 160 in my 510s and my truck I got a heater line to manifold and run a 180 and its fine rite now but its winter. Could have went up to 192 or 195 . seems you got it fixed,dont worry about it. Some eletric fan have a adjustable set up to when the fan kicks in( and a reostat or Pot) Eh thermostat temps? i have a 180* .. Yeah, just drove it to work and home .. sat in traffic and temp went to 180* and held fine. freeway temp went down to 170 ... never went over 180. Seems good to me! I'm going to set up a fan controller for it as soon as I can... For now it works. The L-series will run fine and last with 160 to 195 thermostats. Your choice. The engine itself doesn't care, it will run just fine for years at 220 degrees if your cooling system is in good shape and has a good cap like the Nismo high-pressure radator cap. The optimal is 180 as that keeps the oil at the designed operating temp for oil making it last longer and lubricating best. But hotter temp will will make the heater work better, and the radiator more efficient. You could always add an oil cooler to get the best of both worlds. Yes the carb for a stock engine is tuned for 170-190 degrees -- and with heated air intake air cleaner. This doesn't stifle performance because it is vacuum powered. When you floor it, vacuum drops and only the cold air intake is used (along with the power valve to compensate). My fiero rad is 13 psi cap ... Hmm after driving a while in traffic I notice oil pressure went down a bit... probably got hot? Was getting under 15psi at 800rpm. Oil too thin? I'm using 10w30. Was going to upgrade to a high volume oil pump. Anyway.. the car works and I can drive it reliably so I'm happy. Thanks everyone for the help. 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 14, 2012 Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 That oil pressure is within specs. Oil presure idling: 11-40 psi. 1 Quote Link to comment
Zonargx Posted August 26, 2020 Report Share Posted August 26, 2020 (edited) How do I bleed my cooling system on my 521 L16? I bleed cars before but I’m not familiar at all with the Datsun engine... is there a different way to bleed them? i had a fixed 4 blade fan and pump on it before no termostat and it would over heat after a long drive I’d say about 30-40 minutes on the hiway. I replaced it for a 7 blade clutch fan and pump from a 620 put a 190 thermostat ( only one they had in stock at autozone) Had the radiator cleaned up and re welded also install a temp gauge with a 620 thermostat housing.i drove home from my parents 30 minute drive did not over hear and on highway. Next morning go to work it goes up to about 210-215 it seem a bit normal but stock gauge was almost to high. Driving on the streets it stay at 190 on the aftermarket gauge. Today I drove to my parents it was getting closer to 230 took the temp gauge to check if was ok put it back (keep in mind I didn’t bleed the system). I drive home highway again it got to 230 it got me worried. so my thoughts are probably I need a new radiator since the original I had to get it cleaned and the guy told me it was really clogged up but I’m not to sure cuz on the streets it always stays at 190 after the cleaning or could it be something to do with the fan clutch ? Edited August 26, 2020 by Zonargx 1 Quote Link to comment
john510 Posted August 26, 2020 Report Share Posted August 26, 2020 If it overheats on the highway i would think it ISN'T the fan.You probably need a new radiator.Have you checked the water pump ? 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 26, 2020 Report Share Posted August 26, 2020 water pumps really don't go bad unless all the vains are gone or the bearing really wears out 1 Quote Link to comment
john510 Posted August 26, 2020 Report Share Posted August 26, 2020 4 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said: water pumps really don't go bad unless all the vains are gone or the bearing really wears out That's why i'm asking,maybe the thing is corroded away and isn't circulating water like it should. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 26, 2020 Report Share Posted August 26, 2020 You don't need to bleed air out. Any bubbles find their way up into the head and the engine is tilted up at the front. The highest point is the thermostat, when it opens air is vented into the rad. Order a 180F thermostat. A 190 is a bit high for where you are. Clutch fan..... a good one will be firm to push with fingers but will spin smoothly but will stop as soon as you stop pushing. No matter how fast you spin it, it will stop spinning almost immediately when you let go. If loose and continues to spin even a half turn the silicon fluid drive inside has probably leaked out. The clutch fan has some slip designed into it and above a certain RPM it can't move more air and slips. If the slip is excessive you will over heat. This only applies to over heating on the highway. If the rad is plugged with hard water scale try doing what I did. I removed it and laid it face down and filled with CLR. Over night the CLR will dissolve the calcium/limestone deposits. Over heating causes... Lack of coolant flow 1/ Soft lower rad hose collapses from pump suction at highway speeds restricting flow. 2/ Too high a thermostat 3/ Loose or glazed fan belt 4/ Heater core by-passed by joining hoses together 5/ Internal rad flow blocked by hard water scale build up. Lack of air flow 1/ Missing rad shroud 2/ Missing belly pan 3/ Slipping clutch fan 4/ Rad fins obstructed by debris or damaged All my Datsuns run at or one needle width above half way on the 'run range' on the stock gauge with a 185F Thermostat. I don't really trust an after market gauge so borrow a IR (infra red) 'gun' and shoot the thermostat housing to confirm those high temperatures next time. I wouldn't be running my car at those temperatures if they are true. 1 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted August 26, 2020 Report Share Posted August 26, 2020 It seems that on every Datsun L-cylinder overheating thread I have to say .... Check ignition timing! Retarded timing dumps heat into the cylinder walls, instead of using the heat to push the piston down. 2 Quote Link to comment
Zonargx Posted August 26, 2020 Report Share Posted August 26, 2020 Thanks mike I don’t have a fan shroud the one my truck had with the 4 blade fix fan doesn’t fit on the new 7 blade clutch one. -yes the pump is new i will check the fan when I get home and do something to the shroud so it will fit.i will also check the hose to see if it collapses . By the way I don’t have a heater core not the fan assembly for the interior of the truck I’ve been looking for one and no luck seems most of the part out truck I find don’t have it. @datzenmike what do you mean by CLR (Clorox?) Quote Link to comment
Zonargx Posted August 26, 2020 Report Share Posted August 26, 2020 @DanielC I did notice my timing chain rattle a bit the other day on second gear at around 3k rpm or I could be wrong might of been something else rattle. Quote Link to comment
Zonargx Posted August 26, 2020 Report Share Posted August 26, 2020 What’s a belly pan? Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted August 26, 2020 Report Share Posted August 26, 2020 25 minutes ago, Zonargx said: What’s a belly pan? The pan that goes on the underside of the vehicle.. or belly. Also known as a skid tray, rock guard, splash shield. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 26, 2020 Report Share Posted August 26, 2020 52 minutes ago, Zonargx said: By the way I don’t have a heater core not the fan assembly for the interior of the truck I’ve been looking for one and no luck seems most of the part out truck I find don’t have it. @datzenmike what do you mean by CLR (Clorox?) Heater doesn't matter, what matters is how the heater hoses are. They must NOT be joined together in a loop. There must NOT be any water flow through them. Make sure they are plugged CLR dissolves calcium, limestone and rust. I filled my rad and let soak for 3 days before I could get back to it, completely safe. Quote Link to comment
Zonargx Posted August 26, 2020 Report Share Posted August 26, 2020 @Draker yea I don’t have one then cuz I’m able to see the ground from up top @datzenmike my engine has a hose that is connected from the firewall left (if your facing the engine ) to the front mid low section were the lower rad hose is connected and the hose for the intake also so there’s 3 hoses there Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted August 26, 2020 Report Share Posted August 26, 2020 You said "the guy at the shop told me it was really clogged up", get a new radiator as if it overheated without a thermostat on the freeway it is clogged, every vehicle I own has to have a thermostat because I like having heat to keep me warm and defrost the windshield, I have driven without thermostats before and the temp needle barely gets off the "C"(cold) mark on the gauge. I am assuming you still have the L16, I have had an L20b and LZ23 in my work truck and I used the L16 radiator it came with for over 20 years without issues until it started getting warm a few years ago, I haul a trailer and carry a lot of weight, I converted over to a slightly used Aluminum radiator(looked new) I bought from a member on here several years ago,(before the new classifieds) he said it didn't leak in the ad so to know that he had to have used it, that fixed my rising temps issue. I have heard good and bad about the aluminum radiators, I don't know who made the one I have, I think Quick510 is the one that sold it to me. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 26, 2020 Report Share Posted August 26, 2020 35 minutes ago, Zonargx said: @Draker @datzenmike my engine has a hose that is connected from the firewall left (if your facing the engine ) to the front mid low section were the lower rad hose is connected and the hose for the intake also so there’s 3 hoses there There should be an outlet on the side of the head near the rear No 4 spark plug. This would go into the cab to the heater. The outlet from the heater comes out of the cab and connects to the lower rad hose like in the picture below. If not using the heater make sure there is no way for water to flow through these hoses. Plug them. Quote Link to comment
Zonargx Posted August 26, 2020 Report Share Posted August 26, 2020 2 hours ago, datzenmike said: There should be an outlet on the side of the head near the rear No 4 spark plug. This would go into the cab to the heater. The outlet from the heater comes out of the cab and connects to the lower rad hose like in the picture below. If not using the heater make sure there is no way for water to flow through these hoses. Plug them. 2 hours ago, datzenmike said: There should be an outlet on the side of the head near the rear No 4 spark plug. This would go into the cab to the heater. The outlet from the heater comes out of the cab and connects to the lower rad hose like in the picture below. If not using the heater make sure there is no way for water to flow through these hoses. Plug them. Your engine is really clean I would love my to look like yours Anyways in my truck the back part behind spark plug 4 I had an a hose connected to the front by the inlet that’s is on the lower control hose. So yea it’s bypass. Your saying I should block those two instead of having them be bypass right? Quote Link to comment
Zonargx Posted August 26, 2020 Report Share Posted August 26, 2020 2 hours ago, wayno said: You said "the guy at the shop told me it was really clogged up", get a new radiator as if it overheated without a thermostat on the freeway it is clogged, every vehicle I own has to have a thermostat because I like having heat to keep me warm and defrost the windshield, I have driven without thermostats before and the temp needle barely gets off the "C"(cold) mark on the gauge. I am assuming you still have the L16, I have had an L20b and LZ23 in my work truck and I used the L16 radiator it came with for over 20 years without issues until it started getting warm a few years ago, I haul a trailer and carry a lot of weight, I converted over to a slightly used Aluminum radiator(looked new) I bought from a member on here several years ago,(before the new classifieds) he said it didn't leak in the ad so to know that he had to have used it, that fixed my rising temps issue. I have heard good and bad about the aluminum radiators, I don't know who made the one I have, I think Quick510 is the one that sold it to me. He works on fixing radiators. he said he cleaned it out and it should work Now but I’m guessing I’m just gonna get a new aluminum on cuz it’s already 40 years old. It’s heating up again cuz the same day they cleaned it the temp stayed at 190 hen about 2 days later it started going up again Quote Link to comment
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