metalmonkey47 Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 How simple is it to replace a rear main on an L20B while in the truck? My clutch the last few days has gotten rather...... slippery. I suspect I may have some fluids leaking. I know I need to replace the clutch, so I'm not too concerned, but I don't want to ruin a good new clutch. Rear main is cheap, but I've NEVER done one before. Tips? Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 replacing it is easy. getting to it is the hard part. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted October 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 replacing it is easy. getting to it is the hard part. Tell more. I R intrigued. I know you've done it before Skib! Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 gonna have to drop the oil pan for starters. Iv never done one with the motor in the car. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted October 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 Damn I was afraid you were going to say that. I'll have to see how it looks when I pull it, and if necessary, I'll be pulling my first datto motor Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 Check front trans and rear trans seals too ,,, Rear main is not bad ,,, torque properly !!! ,,, I use an electric impact gun to zip off flywheel bolts ( around 90-105+ish ft lbs I think ? ) ,,, then a piece of angle iron drilled ,,, bolted in and locked motor ,,, to keep still ,,, while torquing flywheel again :lol: be VERY careful on the crank sealing surface ,,, use a sealpuller ,,, or ,,, if neccessary ,,, you can take two small machine screws and tap straight into seal ,,, then pull out with pliers ,,, be very very careful with this method :D check your u-joints ,,, replace while out as needed ,,, clean out the inside of the bellhousing/etc ,,, check condition of throwout bearing ,,, pack it ,,, or replace if need be ! ;) might as well check/bleed slave and master cylinder while there Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 Rear main seal ???? You dont have to pull motor for that.. You just remove flywheel and use a seal puller ( link below ) to pull it out . Then hammer a new one in making sure you go in straight. http://www.harborfre...ller-35556.html Thanks for beating me to it LTP AKA...... Lurker TP Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 v Rear main seal ???? You dont have to pull motor for that.. You just remove flywheel and use a seal puller ( link below ) to pull it out . Then hammer a new one in making sure you go in straight. http://www.harborfre...ller-35556.html Thanks for beating me to it LTP AKA...... Lurker TP :lol: ^^^ ,,,, :D anytime ,,, bannanapeel ! Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 Hahahahaha Speaking of rear mains. Jack the car up. Remove battery cable Remove starter Remove driveline Remove slave Remove speedo cable Remove reverse light switch wires Remove the 4 bolts for the trans to engine Support the trans, remove the crossmember bolts Drop the trans Remove the Clutch Remove the flywheel Find a sheet metal screw, dont push it into the rear main, but screw it in slowly till it goes in Yank the old rear main out Grab your new rear main seal, and put some napa Sil-Glyde shit on the inner part of the rear main Make sure the spring in the rear main is facing into the motor, and tap it into place. Make it flush, don't go to far, you will be fishing it out. Reverse removal instructions, and back in it goes. Good luck man. Takes 3-4 hours. Not to bad. Easier if you have a garage, some heat, and proper lighting. Quote Link to comment
Rustina 510 Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 Hahahahaha Speaking of rear mains. Jack the car up. Remove battery cable Remove starter Remove driveline Remove slave Remove speedo cable Remove reverse light switch wires Remove the 4 bolts for the trans to engine Support the trans, remove the crossmember bolts Drop the trans Remove the Clutch Remove the flywheel Find a sheet metal screw, dont push it into the rear main, but screw it in slowly till it goes in Yank the old rear main out Grab your new rear main seal, and put some napa Sil-Glyde shit on the inner part of the rear main Make sure the spring in the rear main is facing into the motor, and tap it into place. Make it flush, don't go to far, you will be fishing it out. Reverse removal instructions, and back in it goes. Good luck man. Takes 3-4 hours. Not to bad. Easier if you have a garage, some heat, and proper lighting. Just did this the other day and the hardest part was stabbing the tranny back into the motor, a good jack will REALLY help. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 Just did this the other day and the hardest part was stabbing the tranny back into the motor, a good jack will REALLY help. You too eh? I hear if you put some hair around the hole it helps too. Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 Hahahahaha Speaking of rear mains. Jack the car up. Remove battery cable Remove starter Remove driveline Remove slave Remove speedo cable Remove reverse light switch wires Remove the 4 bolts for the trans to engine Support the trans, remove the crossmember bolts Drop the trans Remove the Clutch Remove the flywheel Find a sheet metal screw, dont push it into the rear main, but screw it in slowly till it goes in Yank the old rear main out Grab your new rear main seal, and put some napa Sil-Glyde shit on the inner part of the rear main Make sure the spring in the rear main is facing into the motor, and tap it into place. Make it flush, don't go to far, you will be fishing it out. Reverse removal instructions, and back in it goes. Good luck man. Takes 3-4 hours. Not to bad. Easier if you have a garage, some heat, and proper lighting. Sell car and let next owner do it ...... Quote Link to comment
Rustina 510 Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 Or sell the car and help the buyer do I in your dam driveway like a real class act. "wink" 1 Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 Or sell the car and help the buyer do I in your dam driveway like a real class act. "wink" :rofl: I know where im going to replace my rear main at. your garage with a heater and a good supply of light bulbs, just in case a tool gets dropped on the drop light :blink: :fu: :rofl: Quote Link to comment
Rustina 510 Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 :rofl: Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 Monkey, the rear main seal is super easy to replace after the flywheel is off. A couple of drywall screws and a pair of pliers. It will come right out. Make sure the sealing surface of the new seal slides of the crank without wrinkling it up. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 Rub a liberal amount of axle grease on the seal lips and install. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 If you have a stock oild sender unit just make sure the oil is not draining from that going down the back of motor and making the rear main sel go bad! I had one with bad diaphram and I though my oilpan gasket was bad. Replaced and no more oil leaks. Well it least bad oil leaks! Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 The rear main that was replaced a few days ago, was so worn out it was just sliding around on the crank. Didn't even sit in place anymore. I just used a pointy screw. I couldn't put any pressure on the screw otherwise the rear main wanted to slid in. had to just keep spinning it till it caught grip and went in... then it slid right out. Put the new one on, put a bar on it and tapped it in with a hammer lightly. shit don't leak anymore. really the hard part is just all the BS before and after replacing it man. That was the first one i've done and it came out good. Quote Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 The rear main that was replaced a few days ago, was so worn out it was just sliding around on the crank. Didn't even sit in place anymore. I just used a pointy screw. I couldn't put any pressure on the screw otherwise the rear main wanted to slid in. had to just keep spinning it till it caught grip and went in... then it slid right out. Put the new one on, put a bar on it and tapped it in with a hammer lightly. shit don't leak anymore. really the hard part is just all the BS before and after replacing it man. That was the first one i've done and it came out good. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 :thumbup: Thanks for all the pointers, tips, and help Micro! Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted October 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 Thanks for the quick replys guys I do have a small leak, around the rear of the block. i'm assuming worst case scenario is rear main, since the clutch feels slippery and is degrading every day. I'm actually not too concerned since you guys make it seem SO easy (because I'm sure it is) I have to do the clutch already, so I figure at the price of the seal, I'll just replace it while I'm there. It would be dumb not to. Input shaft seal is going to be another ''do while it's out'' job. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted November 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2011 Anyone got tips on doing an oil pan gasket with the engine in? Is there any way to do it right? Is there enough room between the pan and crossmember to lower the pan enough to slide in a new gasket? Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted November 4, 2011 Report Share Posted November 4, 2011 620 Right? I Just Changed My Pan Gasket Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted November 4, 2011 Report Share Posted November 4, 2011 What about the pickup tube... if you have a cheery picker just yank the motor. It seems like a ton of work but I found it 100on times easier to do clutch and rear main with the motor OUT... makes oil pan gasket a breeze too. Quote Link to comment
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