Safety wire your raditor shrouds on!!

[josh817]

So I sold my good, working, Honda yesterday. Today was going to be the second official drive in my 521. I got about 8 miles down the road, almost to school, and all of a sudden I hear a grinding noise.

 

I pull it out of gear and the noise went away so I started thinking my clutch or tranny died. Pull into a parking lot, no oil spewing. I started it up again and the noise wasn't there, good oil pressure, water temp high but not unusual. Drove up to 3rd gear in the parking lot and no noise. Then it came back and this time it didn't go away even out of gear. I see water start to drip out so I figured I got too hot, but that's unusual...

 

I make some frantic calls because today I have final exams. Take off the hood, and I see the shroud had fell down into the fan. There were some bent fins in one section and looked like one of the tubes was bent but I don't know if it gouged the radiator. I'm assuming the machine screws that hold the shroud to the radiator came out... So safety wire that thing in place just in case! When I get it all together I'm putting bolts with nylon locks in this time instead of the stock machine screws! I have to check the belt too... It has this god awful deafening squeak to it. I THINK it's because I used a differen't alternator and I lined up the pulley as close as possible. It's nearly perfect however I'm thinking maybe it's like 1/8" off or something and its making the belt squeal. I tried tightening it up but that made it worse. I'm curious if it was enough friction and perhaps the belt broke and took the shroud with it. I'll find out tonight.

 

So now I'm hoping my dad can bring his trailor over tonight to get the car out of the parking lot and to his shop. Luckily he has another truck I can use in the mean time. I must say though that I have no confidence in this truck. Everytime I drive it something goes wrong. I have never EVER had this problem with my Z.

 

 

Warning: rant ahead

I'm trying to decide if I should sell this thing and get a "normal" car again with AC or if I should keep pushing on. I think I would take a big loss on the truck. I'm about $3250 into it, and don't think someone will take it for that much. Then again it has a 5 speed, new L20B, new wiring, new wheels and tires, and Beebani 4 wheel disk brakes... This truck would be great if it weren't so loud and if it had AC. After all, that's why I stopped driving the Z!

 

My mom is telling me to stop now and get a modern car. My response is that I don't want to deal with a check engine light that you can spend thousands trying to chase down, and I would have no "emergency" cash if I bought a low miles car. I have $2400 set aside, assuming I get another $2000 at least for the truck. Less than $5000 to spend on a car with under 50,000 miles 2004 or newer? I think not. :(

 

The best route is to just stick with it I guess. If I need a new radiator I'm going to see if this MG radiator fits. I can get it for free and its brand new. If not I'll boil this one out and get it fixed. Maybe it will solve my 3/4 of the way temperature problem too!

[izzo]

I have never had to wire my shroud on, secure it the right way and it wont happen. Silly to sell this thing over something like that.

[DanielC]

On a 521, the radiator is held to the core support with 5/16 bolts, and the fan shroud is held to the radiator with 1/4 bolts, nuts, lock washers, and flat washers.

 

The 521 can be reliable. I have put many miles on a 521 pulling horse trailers all over the Pacific Northwest, in the 1970's, and 1980's when I used to show horses. the 521 broke down less than the full sized pickups I also used.

[MicroMachinery]

So I sold my good, working, Honda yesterday. Today was going to be the second official drive in my 521.

 

***

 

I must say though that I have no confidence in this truck. Everytime I drive it something goes wrong. I have never EVER had this problem with my Z.

 

You've only driven it twice, and "every" time you drive it something goes wrong? :rofl:

 

 

COME ON! These things are old and bound to have issues. Have you ever heard the expression "get all the bugs worked out"? If what you're looking for is a turn-key, no issues driver, you should take out a loan and lease something brand new and made in Japan. Otherwise, expect things to not always be perfect. That's an unrealistic expectation, especially with classic J-tins.

[josh817]

Well I will be going to nuts and bolts this time for sure. Mine has philips head machine nuts to screw it in. The fan and the shroud don't look broken so I may use them again. I'll have to check for cracks.

 

I've done a lot of "unofficial" around town driving that didn't work out either lol. I'm going to push on though and see what happens because you have a point, I haven't given it a chance. I work at local race tracks so the true test will be can it take 3 hours of highway driving without overheating or shit exploding. Maybe I just had it so easy with the Z, and that was with triple webers! There was never a day where it didn't start after the second crank, even in 17º Texas ice.

 

Daniel I was reading about your horse trailer trips, which is what made me jump into this truck to begin with. I'm hoping it will handle a 16' flat bed so I can tow my Z to the track. Trailer brakes of course.

[motavated]

Ummm.... My truck took over 4 years to get it to run decent. Just get in put gas and go. But I had to drive it often and catch all the bugs. I still have my reliable car on the side just in case!

 

I still needs work... I need to change the upper control arms, alignment and fix the muffler so it can be decent.

[josh817]

I haven't touched suspension and I don't really want to either. All that stuff is rusted solid it seems. I would fear that something will snap or round off and then I'm really scewed. :unsure:

[yello620]

I find it rather interesting that of the millions of Datsun made that have machine screws holding to fan shroud on that it could really be a problem like this.

 

Properly installed, it is pretty obvious that they work fine. You need to look back at who is doing the install of this last, Who put the motor L20b in there? Same person? Time to go check the rest of the nuts and bolts.

[bananahamuck]

Given proper maintenance 521 trucks are as reliable as any new car ....ANY NEW CAR

 

newer cars are more comfortable and have self adjusting brakes and being fuel injected makes it so any brain dead person can start it,but in terms of reliability i personally dont think so..

 

but if you build it as a piece, and drive it into the ground ...well

[josh817]

Alright guys I didn't post what I did to bash Datsun's. My particular vehicle has just given me a lot of grief so far that I have to plan on breaking down anywhere I go, for the time being.

 

I'm the one who did everything, and no nothing else has shaken off the car. I'm still going to safety wire it in place so there is some redundency in the system. I will get a better look tonight when I get it home. I too find it hard to believe that 3 of the 4 came loose, making it fall into the fan but I'm pretty sure it wasn't a belt breaking that took it out because my IGN light on the dash didn't come on indicating the alternator wasn't charging.

 

EDIT:

Forgot to ask if there are any raditor swaps out there for a 521 with an L series. I think I saw a thread around here that had mention of a Volvo aluminum radiator? I called up the radiator shop and they're telling me that they can probably repair some broken tubes for about $45 but I also want them to check for any clogs. Aparrently they have no other way to check other than to pull the tanks off and even then she said the material may not take the heat well so when you put it back together it leaks. I don't think that will be a problem as everything in this truck handled aging pretty well. I'll just have to check that MG radiator first and then go from there.

[izzo]

Atta boy. Get to fixin and post some pictures :thumbup:

[wayno]

In my experiance, the datsun 521 has been a reliable truck for me, it gives me warning of impending doom, and if I take the hint, and fix it, i have no issues. The only time I had to be towed home was when that POS dogleg 5 spd. transmission locked itself up, otherwise I have always been able to limp home, or patch/jury rig it, and limp home. Stick with it, one day you will learn the datsun truck language, and fix it when it tells you to, before it actually breaks.:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

[hang_510]

the stock machine screws!

were the lock washers there?

 

sounds like they weren't checked before the test drive...

 

 

probably a good time to replace the bungee-cord battery hold down too

[yello620]

probably a good time to replace the bungee-cord battery hold down too

 

Good call. :rofl:

[josh817]

One thing at a time guys! lol

 

Went to Pick'n'Pull today and grabbed me an alternator from an '81 720, hopefully that's a year that was internally regulated. Then I got a Fiero radiator and I have the top mounting bracket from the car but I'm not really sure where to go from there.

 

Haven't gone outside to take out the old one so I don't know how optimistic I'm feeling about getting this radiator to work.

 

 

EDIT:

Also forgot, it depends on how things go with this truck. If it proves itself to me maybe I'll keep it. Indeed it's just as reliable but when I think about it, I want something that is turn key for the brain dead. My Z is already my project, I don't need another one and my budget can't handle two. Although its a really cool truck, my original intent was to have it tow my Z on a trailer. Problem is that I don't think I am going to have any time to work on my Z until I graduate so that's in shambles. I need something that is good on fuel (over 30mpg) and that has some civilized bits to it. I'm still looking to see what I can do to the truck to make it more civilized.

 

I just started to think about the bigger picture last night. Next summer I'm trying to get an internship or a decent job and I don't care where it takes me. Whatever it is the truck has to make it there and be reliable. I can't do what I did with the Z where when the tranny dies I take a day out and change it. It has to work everyday, it can't have any forewarning for impending doom, no impending doom to be picky actually... I have no spare car for emergencies. I cannot be out of driving and if I'm away from home I don't have the leisure of doing a quick fix like tranny swap over night.

 

I'm still confident in the truck. When I think about it, it's only been cooling issues I've had and tuning issues (huge blip in the gas when I want to accelerate). Seems sluggish too but I've only been using one butterfly on the DGV, haven't been flooring it. Need to get the timing dialed in but then again also need to adjust the mixture. I retarded the timing because it kept running on when I shut it off but I have a feeling it's too retarded now, still has a slight run on, it's probably running a bit lean and getting hot in the combustion chamber.

 

Anyway I'm giving it a chance until December. That's a lot of driving for school and every weekend to the local race tracks 1-3 hours away. If it proves itself to stay cool, quiet, and now weird break downs, I will invest in AC rather than a new car. Because I'm sure $7000 for a new car, can be well spent on a truck to make it pretty damn good. Like I said when I think about it, it's only been cooling issues and that tranny leak. Things I have touched on this truck:

Brakes- work

Engine- works

Tranny- works

Wiring- works

Wheel and tires- works

Radiator- trying to fix

Timing and tuning- haven't actually sat down to try yet.

 

My only other doubt in the truck is the tranny. 5th gear has to last long highway cruises, for hours. I drive around the country a lot on my breaks. Can it handle going to Boston from DFW, Texas? How about to Phoenix and then Colorado? I think it can unless if I'm towing some heavy stuff.

 

Oh and I also ask for good fuel economy. I need close to 30 MPG highway otherwise I make absolutely no money when I go to the track. :D That's probably my biggest issue after everything works. <_< I don't think it will be hard to achieve for a light truck with a 2.0L. I didn't do any performance mods so it shouldn't be a powerhouse gas gusler. Even then I can get an EFI manifold made or do a KA swap. If I'm in this for the long run, they would be good investments.

 

IF I do decide to get rid of it and it stays in the condition that it's in, nothing breaks on it and proves to be reliable, I'd probably be asking for $3500 OBO. I don't know if that's a good sounding deal but if someone is willing to discuss what the price range for these trucks are and all that lets do it in a PM.

[hang_510]

all of a sudden I hear a grinding noise.

 

 

I must say though that I have no confidence in this truck. Everytime I drive it something goes wrong.

previous owners are notorious for doing stupid, half-assed, temporary(less than 5 years) repairs.

probably like the shroud...

 

 

do it right the (your)first time and the duct tape and safety wire can stay in the tool box.

[josh817]

I think I figured out a way to mount the radiator using scrap Datsun sheet metal...

[flatcat19]

If it proves itself to me maybe I'll keep it. Indeed it's just as reliable but when I think about it, I want something that is turn key for the brain dead.

 

Maybe you should prove yourself to the truck.

She doesn't like you?

 

Just sayin'.

[josh817]

That bigger '81 alternator is just big enough to run into the idler arm nut. Dejavu, I read about that and forgot... Managed to get a smaller belt which is a pain in the ass to get on but when on, it only requires a tiny bit of adjustment to get the slack out.

[ggzilla]

I just checked my radiator shroud. The stock Datsun philips-headed screws are still tight. They've lasted since 1974, so should I still safety-wire them?

[lil89ram50]

it better be in pretty minty shape for 3500 bux! holy, with all the problems your saying your having, good luck to get close to that

[datzenmike]

 

My only other doubt in the truck is the tranny. 5th gear has to last long highway cruises, for hours. I drive around the country a lot on my breaks. Can it handle going to Boston from DFW, Texas? How about to Phoenix and then Colorado? I think it can unless if I'm towing some heavy stuff.

 

Oh and I also ask for good fuel economy. I need close to 30 MPG highway otherwise I make absolutely no money when I go to the track.

 

You never never never tow in 5th gear. 5th is for light throttle highway cruise... passing/acceleration, climbing hills and towing.. use 4th.

A properly maintained 5 speed (full of oil, regular changes would drive to the moon)

You are not ever going to get 30MPG towing a trailer with a Z car on it. Show me any vehicle that can do that. I doubt it will get 30 reliably by itself because of the 4.375 gears in the back.

[datzenmike]

IF I do decide to get rid of it and it stays in the condition that it's in, nothing breaks on it and proves to be reliable, I'd probably be asking for $3500 OBO. I don't know if that's a good sounding deal but if someone is willing to discuss what the price range for these trucks are and all that lets do it in a PM.

 

I haven't touched suspension and I don't really want to either. All that stuff is rusted solid it seems. I would fear that something will snap or round off and then I'm really scewed. :unsure:

 

You'll never get what you've put into it. It's just the nature of the beast. Better to keep it as you are slowly replacing the running gear and it will become more reliable.

[josh817]

I said $3500 because it will allow me to drive it. Maybe in a year a buyer comes along. Really though if it proves itself, no need to get rid of it. I have two maybe three years of school left, it only has to hold out for me that long. Hopefully I get employed and I can do as I wish with cars before I get married, if... I get married... When I think about it, all my problems have been the same problems that keep reoccuring. My band aid fixes didn't do shit, and that's not too surprising now is it?

 

DatsunMike: I meant just daily cruising, hopefully I can get close to 30mpg, probably high 20's? Towing a Z forget about it... Thanks for answering my next question about 5th gear. I didn't know if the no towing in overdrive rule applied for a manual transmission "5th gear overdrive" thing. I don't think it would be a problem doing 4th... This is like my Z gearbox, in fact probably the same one, where 4th and 5th are really close together. I won't be missing out on any low RPM cruising anyway...

 

Alright alright no need for sarcasm. Yours may have lasted, clearly mine didn't and they came undone. There really isn't anyway to screw up on screws... Just tighten them, and that I did. It's all ok though and lets try to make a good situation out of a bad because I just installed my alternator, a new belt, and Fiero radiator... It doesn't even get above half way on the gauge now! My alternator is charging, unlike before, and the horrible belt squeal is gone. That's 3 birds with one stone!

 

Everything, new belt, alternator from pick'n'pull, radiator from pick'n'pull, new top radiator hose, came to be around $150. Radiator came from what looked to be a 4 cylinder Fiero but it's working great. I tried using the stock upper mount from the Fiero but when I bolted the straps to it, it wanted to tilt up and allow the radiator to pop out. That would have been catastrophic. The rad. has enough of a lip at the top to drill into so I went that route and tossed the stock mount. With the new alternator, it runs into the idler arm nut. I didn't want to grind on that so I got an undersized belt. I wrestled it on and it only needed to be tightened slightly, not enough to run into the idler. The upper radiator hose needed replacing. The guy at O'Reilleys was nice enough to let me go back there with him and find something that worked. Basically you need the same zigzag shape and same diameter, but the radiator side of the hose needs to be 6" closer to the drivers side fender. Part number is in the pictures.

 

Oh and the way I did the mounting, it didn't hit the hood. Then again I pin my hood on so it could be different for others. For the bottom mount, I didn't really mount it. I used a piece of angle aluminum... genuine Datsun aluminum because it's the door sill plate off of a Z that I cut to 21".

 

Some pictures:

 

What it ran at before, around town. Ran a little hotter on the highway:

 

What it runs at now, no shroud:

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wzzwVWDcgwI

 

The timing was wayyy retarded. I had done that to try to bring the temps down and keep it from dieseling. I forgot about it until I forgot my wallet, drove back up the giant hill we're on, good thing I had speed because it wasn't going to make it... lol Advanced the ignition, made a world of difference and no run on when I shut it off after driving for 20 minutes. It must have been the water temp being too hot that was making it diesel.

 

Tomorrow is the real test. Get on the highway for 30 minutes to move shit into my apartment. I'm pretty confident it will be smooth ride. ;)

[josh817]

Truck drives fantastic. Doing 70, the temperature never fluctuates from what was pictured. Brakes are spongy but I have the Wilwood master ready to go on. I think I'm going to add some sound deadening and shit like that sometime next week. The wind, the engine, the tires, and other cars passing by are just too loud for my comfort. Hopefully it will keep some of the engine heat out too.