Jump to content


Senior Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

80 Better

About josh817

  • Rank
    Hall Monitor
  • Birthday 12/18/1990

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Keller, Texas 76248
  • Cars
    1972 240Z, 1971 521, 1968 BMW 1602
  1. #83 on the diagram is the cause of concern right now. When I brace the bottom of the tire, with the car sitting on the ground, and pull on the top of the tire, I can damn near pull the the suspension off but it's almost spring loaded because it pulls back into place when I let go. Confirmed it was coming from the top of the dog bone and it corresponds with the same wheel that has the vibration under braking. I've got a few stupid questions... Why did Nissan go with some metal/greased bushings and some rubber. Why not all rubber? Does #87, the one that is orientation sensitive ever wear and need replacing? If it is orientation sensitive, do you have to hone that hole to accept the new bushing? Tension rods going to the front... are those self explanatory, apply tension (pull towards the front) on the control arm or can you go either way? It was said above that kingpins are hard or expensive to source. I saw a set on Napa for ~$300, high $200's on O'Reillys, but Autozone had $60 kits. Do we have another part mix up issue like on the inner front wheel bearings?
  2. My father the same way. He supplements his shop by selling stockpiles of parts on the shelf. Unless if it is hard to find, he doesn't see any point in trying to refurb certain items for customers when there is a new version in the catalog. After labor, as you know with the bitchy things that pop up like broken, rounded off, seized, hardware, many times you're better off ordering from the catalog. $400-500 with $200 core doesn't sound bad to me at all if it means I could spend a day or less swapping parts. Otherwise I am stuck having the truck on jacks and boring my dads car. I don't like to rely on others. He has mercy on me because it's him but my mother... once you rely on her for car duty you get the endless nagging "when will you buy a car from this decade" Seeing as I can get some pretty decent average joe cars for $3000, it is tempting. The king pins may push it to there. My 521 is not a show car by any means. TLDR: you win it's a kingpin causing that knocking so far. Though, the vibration at braking is far too violent to be just that. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_cPanEuZiwI
  3. I reached into the wheel and grabbed the rotor and it makes the same wobble (2nd vid). The yanking on it from the first vid, yah probably control arm bushings. The whole front end needs to be done. I was pondering this today, especially for king pins. If someone like you who can do them quickly and reliably does a few rounds, assuming you have the dog bone and hubs on the shelf, so then someone like me can buy them at full cost. Then if/when they get around to swapping out their gear, ship the original stuff back and after you give it the thumbs up, refund that core charge... Just a thought. I might be one of only a few here that drives it daily and relies on it. And yes Beebani brakes. When I get home tomorrow I will take the cap off and check. I should know this, but I don't suppose the nut is something that needs occasional retightening?
  4. Just checked the king pin, surprisingly little to no play but I wasn't really wailing on it. Tie rods tight. Sway bar has some rotted rubber making it a little loose. That may be the clunking I hear on slight dips. I mean, it's looking like a wheel bearing for now. It could have a growl and I don't know it, I usually wear earbuds or plugs on highway from the wind and road noise. Also pretty sure the first problem was a warped rotor. I have probably 50,000 miles on these and you can feel the lump in the pedal. When slowing (5mph and less) to a light you feel the pulsing. Either way I need new pads new rotors. I can do those this weekend and see what happens from there but for now I am pretty scared to stomp the brakes at highway speed. Something sounds like it wants to break no pun intended. If I lay my foot on the pedal I can slow enough without any drama. Side note, I have always heard a hard clunk when changing direction with the wheel cranked over hard. Like if I am backing out of a spot and pulling forward. Doubt they are related. The two things I fear are kingpins and that pin at the bottom of the dog bone that people warn to keep in the right direction. RIP ball joints and rubber connections that are easy to repair. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rBuhliZNv0I
  5. I pray not them... THis is my daily driver and I can't get that done in a weekend...
  6. Well, I have some questions and also mklotz70 can't receive PM's from me so hopefully he will see this. I've got a warped rotor up front and I believe it walloped out my wheel bearing. Suspected so far. Get a bad vibration under heavy braking so I usually just coast in and apply brakes when I'm under 30MPH. No vibration when cruising. With the truck parked I can grab the top of the tire and pull out and get quite a bit of play and hear the same noise. Could be tie rod, changed them 2 or 3 years ago but the rubber boots on that side have cracked and it may be bad. I will go with unconfirmed wheel bearing until I can get to the weekend. So, my question is about the age old bearing issue. I saw in Mikes post about his spacers that the 620 inner bearing sits slightly lower and this could cause rubbing from the drum to the side of the shoe. Well I don't have that and I'm sure it would rub on the inside of a brand new brake pad for me but since I am in need of a brake job anyway and to hold me off until I can get Mikes spacer, does anyone foresee an issue with just straight up using a 620 inner bearing for now so I don't crash and die... Also are there any other known issues so I can prepare myself for the job? I assume I use 521 gear for everything but the inner bearing. Will have video in a second. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2tBf0H3ZEQ
  7. There are 2 adjustments on the dizzy like Banzai noted. One up top that is a 10mm wrench and one underneath (it goes up toward you) that is 8mm. Between those two you get a lot of adjustment. If it isn't enough rotate the sparkplug wires. I believe the rotor spins counterclockwise so rotating the wires 1 prong/plug clockwise will advance your timing and if you went 1 prong/plug counterclockwise it will retard your timing. It is a 4 cylinder engine so rotating the wires will advance or retard by 90º. If you or the previous owner had installed the spindle correctly during engine build/oil pump replacement then the plugs might be orientated the way you're reading. I know I don't do it properly because I don't want to dick around with fishing a spindle up through the front cover trying to mesh it with gears. Then again, I'm a lazy piece of shit so what do I know? The only time not doing it correctly really becomes a major problem is when you end up right in between adjustment. You can't retard it enough with the 2 adjustment points but if you rotate the wires all of a sudden you're too far retarded and can't advance enough. Obviously this becomes less of a problem with a 6cyl dizzy where rotating the wires is 60º rather than 90º and with a V8 it's 45º for each rotation. The direct and improper solution would be to cut out the slots on the bottom plate (one with the 8mm) so you can rotate it as much as you want and then use a washer or a stepped washer that's actually meant to be used as a hold down and tighten the 8mm down so the washer grips. You could do that for the top 10mm adjustment but even I, the laziest of lazy, want that little adjustment plate on the dizzy that shows how advance or retarded you are, to be relatively accurate; meaning if I cut the hold down slot out on the 10mm sure I can twist the dizzy around all I want but that adjustment plate will be way off.
  8. josh817

    One piece driveshaft

    $150 - 100 miles later, have a balanced driveshaft with synced ujoints. The shop also did something to loosen up the tight new joints and straightened the driveshaft "a little". Drives smoothly now. I left the leather strap in the rubber bushing. Once again I was told you may want to replace the bearing and I said from what I read and searched for, you can't find the rubber and maybe not the bearing either. They didn't believe me, they searched, didn't find anything either. Nice obvious arrows to now line everything up. The ujoints are loose enough to rotate on their own with gravity now. When I asked them about syncing the ujoints they kept pointing at the very front flange and the very rear flange saying those had to be inline, even after I noted that the front driveshaft is horizontal. Regardless, the current setup is now safely operational.
  9. josh817

    One piece driveshaft

    All the local driveshaft shops are weary of the "fix" and I explained to them that the rubber as far as I can see is not available unless they have a source and that the wrapping of the shaft is working for others. I don't blame them for being hesitant about wanting to mount it on their machine. EDIT: Called up a 4th shop my father recommended in Dallas (about 30 miles away), they're a heavy truck shop and are open 7AM - 12AM. They said they could have it done today and estimated $150. Little bit more expensive than the others but done today. Their sister company in Fortworth wanted $200 with no guarantee today, another shop wanted $125 with at least a 2 day wait and their machine mounted onto the ujoint itself so I would have to get another set of joints. They were actually the ones who shortened the shaft originally so that is rather peculiar that their machine balances without the flanges on the end... Thought those had to be match balanced as an assembly.
  10. josh817

    One piece driveshaft

    Now when I put the new ujoints in, at least 2 sides were tight after trying to press the caps in far enough to get the inner groove to show. The manual says something around 56lbs/in of force is acceptable for a ujoint. Usually when I do ujoints, after the pins are in and they're greased I will work them by hand and if they're really tight I give them some whacks with a rubber mallet to push those caps out onto the retaining clip. My father said maybe one of the needle bearings fell over however the way I put them in I don't see that happening and there is nothing crunchy inside. I usually squeeze one cap in on the vice, install the clip, and then put the other in partially on the vice and move to the press to get the groove to show. In between I typically slide the ujoint itself between the two caps routinely to make sure it can go into both ends and doesn't get jammed up. I originally thought after hearing this that maybe a tight joint was causing excess wobble as it fought the rotation.
  11. josh817

    One piece driveshaft

    G-Duax, it is my understanding the 521 carrier bearing is not available or at least the rubber part. Judging by what Wayno says, it seems like something that can be completely toast and rigged together, and still work fine. The bearing itself spun great both in and out of the car with no crunchy noises. Wayno, I know what you're saying, that is what I was doing today. I feel it is better to balance it as is, with the setup from post #18 and go from there. Like you guys were pointing out, you could have an out of sync ujoint and get it balanced and it be fine. With that logic and checking to make sure it isn't binding or pushing the carrier forward I will get it balanced as is and assume this as the new starting point. From here on out, the way you see it is the way it goes back together. Speaking of the rest of the driveline, I haven't had any hard shifting or drips from the rearend/tranny. Do you think low fluid may cause such a ruckus? I can pump some more lube into them right now and try her out.
  12. josh817

    One piece driveshaft

    Unfortunately I do not have that type of time. This fix needs to happen tomorrow. When I rotated it around I did not experience binding or shifting but I will check for that in the morning. No nuts or bolts are touching. I am going to mark the pieces as they are and find a driveline shop that can balance it as is, with the correct syncing of the rear (albeit the back of the front driveshaft is out of sync, see post #18). We know it is the driveshaft because the noise shifted after ujoints and then again after putting a leather strap around the carrier rubber. At this point it is easier to start fresh than to mend a screwed up situation. The driveline was first shortened, I assume it was balanced in the process I can try to find the old receipt (this was the 5 or 6 years ago). It had a vibration at 20-25mph. I did ujoints, completely unaware of ujoint snycing and I cannot remember if I paid attention to flange direction. There were witness marks already on the driveshaft but some of them didn't line up which would imply I goofed them at the time. Regardless, it ran fine for 5 years until now. That is where it gets fucked up. I see these marks, I mark it as is (coming out of the truck), and I am left with the choice of either lining up the old marks assuming that was from the driveline shop or returning it to how it was when I took it out. I opted for lining up the old marks and I did this on the ujoint at the tranny. I also synced the ujoints on the rear driveshaft. So here we are. Runs great under 50mph, above that you get a progressively loud vibration. It's a droning vibration at around 60 Hz, not a whipping/whacking around. It isn't violent but it would vibrate the door locks a little. The truck has had a troubled past, mix matching and shit. That's why I feel its best to go with what I currently have and get it balanced. There should be no change from the factory to now as far as driveline angles are concerned. I know it's going to sound like I'm not heading warning and listening to the elders but this is my daily driver and I'm digging into sick days, I cannot drag it out any further. This is why when I do work I try to plan it out as best as possible so I can get it all done on the weekend. My mistake for not having a backup car and for doing this on a Saturday.
  13. josh817

    One piece driveshaft

    That was my original thought 1st the start of this thread. Too many pieces to go wrong. This was not giving me a problem before. Then 2 weeks ago I got a light vibration. Then did this and here we are. I know it worked before, it should work now. I have a 2.0L from a 620, 280 5 speed, shortened driveshaft, Beebani front and rear disk setup. Xterra wheels with 205-55 tires (night be 205-50 can't remember). That's it. 5 or 6 years ago is when all this was done and its been fine since. Driveline angles have not changed. It was fine with the wrong ujoint sync. It was fine with a sketchy rubber isolator. Something happened 2 weeks to cause a vibration. Tires were moved, loose things were checked. I don't know at this point but what I do know is work is tomorrow and I don't have a safe car so the best thing I can do is send it to a Driveline shop to get balanced. After that I am completely out of ideas.
  14. josh817

    One piece driveshaft

    Sitrep: Not playing with this anymore. I took everything out and wrapped 1 time with an old leather dress belt. Held on with electrical tape I bolted her back down and no shaft wobble at low speed but a definite vibration at highway speed now. More than the buzzing from before I did all this. It appears the rubber isolater was flexing at low speed and I have no idea at highspeed but it wasn't causing this much noise. Tomorrow I will just take off work and get the damn thing balanced. I will consider that part of the ujoint process... I can't have a driveshaft break and tear up the bottom of the car. This truck is financially on the last straw for me so if something major like that happened she would be listed for sale. Leather belt trick worked, no play around the bearing but still some flex to absorb sound. Who knows if it's too hard and that is the source of my problem now or out of balance.
  15. josh817

    One piece driveshaft

    Worth a shot, the only thing I can see it messing up is the balance but at this point who knows. I can always flip it back, so long as that big nut on the end is reusable. I saw a D21 carrier bearing replacement video and the dude said his new bearing came with another nut implying it is one time use?
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.