Laecaon Posted February 12, 2012 Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 I would run as advanced as possible without pinging... scroll up on the link and figure out what it says. Also note, you are looking at a timing mark from 40 years ago and possible swaps. Ear tuning might be better, especially if avoiding pinging under hard load. Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted February 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 I would run as advanced as possible without pinging.... pinging is the valves ticking? because my do that kinda loud :blink: and if that pinging(ticking) is fixable it would be the lash pads? my oil is at the top most hash marks and i thought that might help the valve chatter go away but noo... Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted February 12, 2012 Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 Pinging is predetonation. You are hearing valve tick. Adjust that. Search for the thread by klotz Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted February 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 so can anyone tell me why its reving at 3200+ at 65 mph?? really loud Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted February 12, 2012 Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 so can anyone tell me why its reving at 3200+ at 65 mph?? really loud Gear ratios? Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted February 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 so how would i smooth it out lower rear end gears, can you find a interchangeable gear setup for the solid rearend? i dont care if its fast off the line i want to be able to be in 5th at 65 mph and not whine is there anything i can do.. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted February 12, 2012 Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 That does sound right. What size are you tires? I using my tire size (185/65/14) with a manual goon rear end of 3.7, and the dogleg final drive ratio of .854, at 65mph you should only be turning the motor at 2941rpm 3200 rpm would be 70mph... I wonder if you rear gears got swapped with a truck (goons only came with 3.7 or 3.889, which neither would say 65mph and 3200rpm... Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted February 12, 2012 Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 Actually, I think your dogleg needs a new speedometer gear, and you are actually going 70mph at 3200 rpm... I read that the stock rear end for a HL510 or 200sx was a 3.889, you have a 3.7. The speedometer gear is then going to report a lower speed than you are actually going. Its like having tires that are too large, but in this case the rear end gears are too big. Here it states that a 200sx (s10) manual had a 3.889 rear end. http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=H165#S10 Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted February 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 awesome that makes sense but its not bad that its doing that right? Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted February 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 stance update!! Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 awesome that makes sense but its not bad that its doing that right? Well not sure what whine you are talking about. Could be something, could be nothing. Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted February 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 interior done Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted February 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 and i did a hot valve adjustment but i think im going to do a cold one 2maro morning just to be sure after i did it ran a bit smother OOOOHHHHH shiny!!! Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted February 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 Well not sure what whine you are talking about. Could be something, could be nothing. when i said whine i ment high rpm i know that the l20b can go quite a bit up there in the rpm range without worry, but it is scary sometimes when im used to driving a 1993 bmw 745i and its quiet a hell at 90 sooo lol Quote Link to comment
Gollum Posted September 9, 2012 Report Share Posted September 9, 2012 I know it's been a while since the last post, but 3200 is nothing for the L6 motors, and I'd imagine the L4 motors are just the same. My '75 turns about 3000 at 70mph and my '81 turns 3500 all day long because I never drive under 70mph and it has 3.9 rear gears. I've driven L motors at 4k rpms for EXTENDED periods of time (i mean like an hour + ) and they've never given me grief. These are strong little buggers. You'll have bigger issues if you've got a bad cylinder, because now you've got strange harmonics going on. Your compression test showed a low cylinder, which honestly could have easily been the needed valve adjustment. I'd check it again now that you've done a hot adjustment, and see if it's better. Ideally you want all your cylinders within 5psi, but some people feel that within 10psi of each other is fine. For some low tolerance motors even a disparity of 15psi isn't the end of the world. Typical "brand new" or rebuilt motor is commonly within 2-3psi of each other or even 1 in some cases. Personally the main reason I'd be trying to get the RPMs lower at cruise would be for 1. MPG, and then 2. Noise. Luckily in my '81 it's so quiet hardly EVER hear the engine over the road noise, but my '75 has a L28ET with 3" exhaust and a straight through muffler. That sucker makes some NOISE on the freeway. But it's also gutted, dashless, etc so it's the least of my concerns. EDIT: BTW, love the wood headliner. I'd have gone with a thinner material, but that's just because I'm weight anal, especially when it comes to PLACEMENT, not just quantity. Overall, I think it's unique and has character, which isn't something you can really buy on ebay. Quote Link to comment
the510keeper Posted September 10, 2012 Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 What are we talking about again, I forgot Quote Link to comment
Ranman72 Posted September 10, 2012 Report Share Posted September 10, 2012 put some sound deadener in it it is a 510 until you do this it will be loud inside I have driven to canby 9 hours at 4000 rpm plus if its a good motor it will be fine also driven to vegas again 9 plus hours 4000 plus rpm no probs run some good oil I love castrol and run 20/50 in my datsuns Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted March 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 to do list for canby 1. replace oil pan gasket- somehow it leaks now, will this happen from sitting thru the winter snow and freezes? 2. oil pressure thingy leaks 3 replace front strut inserts 4. shim rear diff so that it tilts up abit more, since at high speeds it makes a gnarly noise and king rat told me its from some one flipping a leaf .. 5. put side drafts on! is there any thing i need to know about adding side-drafts? as far as i know my motor is rebuilt to stock possible peanut head compression readings last time i checked were between 185-190 all four cyl. i do have a 620 booster i believe maybe a 210... clearance issues? Quote Link to comment
the510keeper Posted March 21, 2013 Report Share Posted March 21, 2013 do it now! Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted March 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2013 W..T..F..!! my compression tester must be messed up im only getting 100s across on a warm motor ... still drives really strong like chirping into second strong. Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted March 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2013 to do list for canby 1. replace oil pan gasket- somehow it leaks now, will this happen from sitting thru the winter snow and freezes? 2. oil pressure thingy leaks 3 replace front strut inserts 4. shim rear diff so that it tilts up abit more, since at high speeds it makes a gnarly noise and king rat told me its from some one flipping a leaf .. 5. put side drafts on! is there any thing i need to know about adding side-drafts? as far as i know my motor is rebuilt to stock possible peanut head compression readings last time i checked were between 185-190 all four cyl. i do have a 620 booster i believe maybe a 210... clearance issues? i plan on replacing the oil pan gasket 2maro, sidedrafts are in the mail....hmm oh and i have to do something about my brakes again i dont think i did it right the first time :hmm: Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted March 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2013 so how worried should i be about this being inside my oil pan? im pretty sure its part of one of my pistons? like one of these little ears Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 25, 2013 Report Share Posted March 25, 2013 Was it there all along? Have you ever had the pan off before? If you put the pistons in did you fit them with the dot or notch to the front? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 25, 2013 Report Share Posted March 25, 2013 to do list for canby 4. shim rear diff so that it tilts up abit more, since at high speeds it makes a gnarly noise and king rat told me its from some one flipping a leaf .. If I said tilt it up I did mean down... well in my case when lowering, effectively the rest of the car lowered while the differential, as far as the car was concerned, appeared to lift up. It needed to be tilted down to even it out. In any case you must measure the tranny to driveshaft angle as well as the driveshaft to differential flange angle and make them as close to the same as you can get them. Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted March 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2013 Was it there all along? Have you ever had the pan off before? If you put the pistons in did you fit them with the dot or notch to the front? ive never had the pan off before, i bought the wrecked wagon with this motor.. P.O. had the motor rebuilt completely (top and bottom) and he had put on about 4-5k before he wrecked it, i did not put the pistons in. looking closely at the piece, the edge that broke off is kind of smooth , so im assuming its been in there quit a while dunno tho, its aluminum ..there hasnt been any loss of power that ive noticed Quote Link to comment
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