TENDRIL Posted April 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2015 Huh? Lol 1 Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted April 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2015 Haha it's nothing crazy, but it fixed some other issue I had 2 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted April 3, 2015 Report Share Posted April 3, 2015 Damn baller.. looking great! 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted April 4, 2015 Report Share Posted April 4, 2015 Maybe I missed it, but why did you weld in your strut tower? Or am I seeing it wrong? It looks the strut tower was completely cut out and maybe a new one welded in. Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted April 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2015 Haha no it's stitch welding, with these cars being spot welded together! A heavier motor and more power so heavier turns. The body will actually flex and twist so that's why you see cross bars on strut towers, I did it because I dont have a strut towers brace... Yet. and I'm painting my engine bay. Some people stitch weld every seam in the bay and have see one car with it throught the entire shell, but that's because racecar. 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted April 4, 2015 Report Share Posted April 4, 2015 Ah got ya. Good to know. Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted April 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2015 And than the last bolt to tighten ... Snap...shit... 6 Quote Link to comment
Busta Nut Posted April 5, 2015 Report Share Posted April 5, 2015 Well executed!! 1 Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted April 6, 2015 Report Share Posted April 6, 2015 Car theifs best friend I see there. Looks like this thing is coming along nicely. Quote Link to comment
Just Joel Posted April 6, 2015 Report Share Posted April 6, 2015 Never mind... I can see its not a two link. Parallel 4? I see what looks to be a cross link for track? Quote Link to comment
Janksun Posted April 6, 2015 Report Share Posted April 6, 2015 Never mind... I can see its not a two link. Parallel 4? I see what looks to be a cross link for track? This the the rear end out of James now 2 door wagon. 1 Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted April 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2015 Never mind... I can see its not a two link. Parallel 4? I see what looks to be a cross link for track? Yes it is a parallel bar set up with a track bar, it is a cool set up for it being a bolt in. It goes way lower than I was at with blocks and a flipped leaf yet no where near laying rockers, the only thing I need to address, is the alignment it seems to be off a bit to one side, I will see how far I can go with the track bar to center it more, and not bind any other areas 1 Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted April 6, 2015 Report Share Posted April 6, 2015 just a fyi ... adjust your track bar to center and ride height ...... they will shift the rear end through the arc of the suspension travel ... my chevy had one and u could feel it shift when at highway speed traveling the arc while operating the air .... not much but still 3 Quote Link to comment
Just Joel Posted April 6, 2015 Report Share Posted April 6, 2015 Yep ^^^ as I was typing the same. The same is true on a panhard setup as well. 2 Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted April 6, 2015 Report Share Posted April 6, 2015 u can remove that bump stop pad on the frame for another inch drop 1 Quote Link to comment
Just Joel Posted April 6, 2015 Report Share Posted April 6, 2015 Based on bag position, I'd guess the axle tube doesn't get to that pad ;) 1 Quote Link to comment
jrock4224 Posted April 6, 2015 Report Share Posted April 6, 2015 good call ... could make those mounts lower profile on the axle .. but i always try and minimize wasted heights ... i woulda stepped that upper mount too ... looks like that axle saddle may hit the bump stop pad anyway on compression 1 Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted April 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2015 it bottoms out on the bags before anything else ... and when bottomed the pinion flange is barely touching the tunnel off to the pass. side, also the bags when flat are sitting a little too crooked for my liking. so i might drill a hole for the mount on rear end to straighten the bag when deflated ? i also might consider stepping the top mount as well as jrock mentioned for a little more low as there is about 2-3" of unused space, however i will keep it high enough so that if anything should fail i will not tear any sheet metal off of my car lol also could anyone answer, if in fact a setup like this eliminates the need of traction bars? in my mind its like a giant traction bar setup and should eliminate the diff from wanting to climb under hard acceleration Quote Link to comment
TENDRIL Posted April 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2015 i will get more pics of the whole thing when i go back up there in a few days Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.