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Yes, four link should stop all axle wrap. There are other factors at play like anti squat and roll steer but those require significant detail to calculate.

 

 

there's a online program for figure instant center,A/S  and stuff for designing four links .. but at this horse power and driving unless whacked out designs ensue its negligible ...and agreed u want alignment and most manufacturers say  dont bottom out the bag or use it as a snubber .. bu i had a set of conitechs 2600 on my mazda that bottomed out ad were exposed to the elements for ten plus years and never had a issue.... you can also eliminate bag transfer through separating your bags with separate solenoids.... but i have only ever done that on the front ... it never came as a issue inthe rear of my trucks.... separating the fronts made a difference ...especially when my mazda had no front sway bar... 

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Yep... Unless you're a geek like me, the information is more or less useless :D just make sure you can maintain decent pinion angle and proper track in your usable drive height and range.

 

FYI, separation in air supply is always recommend. To elaborate on what rock was pointing out, air pressure transfer from side to side in a corner can actually add to body role. By isolating each side, it prevents such transfer.

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Yep... Unless you're a geek like me, the information is more or less useless :D just make sure you can maintain decent pinion angle and proper track in your usable drive height and range.

 

FYI, separation in air supply is always recommend. To elaborate on what rock was pointing out, air pressure transfer from side to side in a corner can actually add to body role. By isolating each side, it prevents such transfer.

 

 

im a layman when i build a car or a air system ... simpler the better ..... i always separate the front circuit.... if not all of them ... if built right u wont see any difference and u can wire your switched to operate in any configuration u want .. im mosty a three switch guy ... front up down, rear up down, and a all up all down ..... the all switch is my emergency road hazard switch .,lol...in my mazda i ran no sway bar for a short time and had a time where i had a solenoid stick so i ran bot front bags off one set of solenoids for a week while i waited for a new one .. by the thirsd day i was putting my sway bar back on ... it was annoying .... mostly at free way speeds ... the truck would just feel weird ... i fixed the new solenoid and never will do that again ... the sway bar helped but yes air transfer between bags can be sketchy ... the mazda ran one circuit in the bck but it was so light i never noticed it especially with the front seperate.   the rest of my fullsize stuff ran manifold style valves... and had separate ones in each corner... ive done it both ways ... its easy .. an joels right .. pinion angle and tracking are really your bread and butter... everyone fears air suspension ... but its really a simple and easy system ... chasing leaks is the worst part ... but once u seal everything up and have no bleeders u can't beat the ride quality of a properly thought out air suspension .. 

 

everyone sees  trucks laying on the ground and says that must ride shitty .. and to the contrary the ride better then stock ... shit even my static 521  as low as it is .. rides amazingly well for how low it is ... 

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Locktite thread sealant is the shit. Typically I'll buff the threads on a wire wheel, a thin smear of thread sealant two wraps of tape and another coat of sealant. It's how I run black pipe gas line and I rarely get leaks. Only time I do is when I tighten too far and need to back up for alignment. Avoid this if you can and they should be golden. Better yet, spend the money on swivel DOT fittings and misalignments are a thing of the past. Be prepared to drop some coin tho, Swedish and I spent a few hundred in brass alone... My cost! Not cheap but when fitting failure isn't an option you don't skimp with plastic.

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ive used compression fittings and presslock .....if u use presslock make sure u get a tubing cutter and get the cut straight ... and joel is right .. i started using liquid thread sealant and it is a life saver... can be messy at times .... well only if your messy and squeeze to much out lol

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Joel and I both bought the little Larry's fourplay manual valves. They also sell the Touche which is cheaper and two circuits instead of 4. These valves fill your bags and empty your bags with variable speed manual toggles. I never used electric solenoids, but I'm definitely stoked on the Little Larry's. Here is the diagram.

 

image_zpsmmy97omc.jpg

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http://s425783753.initial-website.com/the-touche-double-valve/

 

If you are doing the rear only this is all you would need. Joel came up with a good idea and asked for them to send his unit with no laser engraved corny logo on the faceplate. I like giving up all of Joel secrets. I did not think of that and just hit mine with a sharpie.. Haha!

 

This is the link to the Fourplay...

 

http://s425783753.initial-website.com

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Joel and I both bought the little Larry's fourplay manual valves. 

 

Newb question: This model isolates each bag so there's no air transfer from side to side while cornering?

 

 

They also sell the Touche which is cheaper and two circuits instead of 4. 

 

And this does not?

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Correct. If you had 4 bags, what you said is 100% correct. If you only had bags in the rear, the Touche would offer a left and right circuit. I almost cheaped out and bought the Touché,thinking I would have a front tee'd left and right and a rear teed circuit. but I'm glad I ponied up for the Fourplay because any side to side body roll at tucked ride height and I would definitely be rubbing.

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