burrito213 Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 hey party people, just got off the phone with a near-by radiator place and they want to charge me $120.00 to get my tank cleaned. is there anyone in the southern california area, technically san fernando to san diego, that knows a shop that does good tank boiling/cleaning? not to say that the guy that quoted me isnt reputable but i just want to check out prices and see if there are alternatives. any help? here are some pics of the damage: the outside looks dirty but can be cleaned. inside, one side of the tank looks new as day, the other side (the pics) was rusty. Quote Link to comment
wildmaninid Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 I have had the best luck with the following. Go to the hardware store, and get the cheapest bulk nuts and bolts possible....lag screws, lock washers, bolts nuts etc, stuff with sharp edges.........using a small amount of fuel (1/2 gallon at a time), and a few lbs of these new clean objects, swish this mixture all up in that tank, up down round and round and round. Pull bolts out and clean in solvent, or even put a new batch in, and do it again.....the bolts n stuff scour the hell out of the inside of the tank, and fuel is a great solvent! Cheap easy and VERY effective....been doing this on Dattos ever since I could remember..........grandad had me doing this as a little tyke, one of my first memories actually of working on Dattos.. Good luck! Quote Link to comment
herculesinwyoming Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 i had mine done by a radiator shop, paid him 100 bucks, but the thing was like new inside when he was done, for me to have peace of mind and reliability 100 bucks was well worth the peace of mind. Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 i had mine done by a radiator shop, paid him 100 bucks, but the thing was like new inside when he was done, for me to have peace of mind and reliability 100 bucks was well worth the peace of mind. What Hercy said. Quote Link to comment
wildmaninid Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 Lol get r done the only way you can! Bolts work great for me, and getting it done myself for around 15 bucks is well worth it! When you live where I do, you figure out how to make things happen! Good luck! Quote Link to comment
fuzz's '71 510 Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 I have had the best luck with the following. Go to the hardware store, and get the cheapest bulk nuts and bolts possible....lag screws, lock washers, bolts nuts etc, stuff with sharp edges.........using a small amount of fuel (1/2 gallon at a time), and a few lbs of these new clean objects, swish this mixture all up in that tank, up down round and round and round. Pull bolts out and clean in solvent, or even put a new batch in, and do it again.....the bolts n stuff scour the hell out of the inside of the tank, and fuel is a great solvent! Cheap easy and VERY effective....been doing this on Dattos ever since I could remember..........grandad had me doing this as a little tyke, one of my first memories actually of working on Dattos.. Good luck! I heard about the same thing, but using a link of chain instead. Now for $120 and to get it cleaned and pressure tested seems resonable to me and safer. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 I have had the best luck with the following. Go to the hardware store, and get the cheapest bulk nuts and bolts possible....lag screws, lock washers, bolts nuts etc, stuff with sharp edges.........using a small amount of fuel (1/2 gallon at a time), and a few lbs of these new clean objects, swish this mixture all up in that tank, up down round and round and round. Pull bolts out and clean in solvent, or even put a new batch in, and do it again.....the bolts n stuff scour the hell out of the inside of the tank, and fuel is a great solvent! Cheap easy and VERY effective....been doing this on Dattos ever since I could remember..........grandad had me doing this as a little tyke, one of my first memories actually of working on Dattos.. Good luck! As I have said before, I would do the above, I have heard of using a small chain also, then after all the rust you can knock loose is out, go buy a good quality tank sealer and follow the directions. If you seal the tank with a good quality sealer it will never have a rust issue again. Don't buy cheapest, buy the best they have. I send away for mine from the east coast. Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 What about sloshing around some Klean Strip phosphoric acid ($15, Home Depot)? That'll get rid of the rust fo sho. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 I used gravel from my driveway. Quote Link to comment
fuzz's '71 510 Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 I used gravel from my driveway. stone wash method, just like blue jeans :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 When I drove the car home it had sat since 2002 and that was two years ago. The filter plugged twice and I just unhooked it and shook the orange shit out of it. I replaced the filter and it plugged in a week with orange sediment so I pulled the tank and emptied out the gas. Dumped in gravel and grit and some water and swirled it around for as long as my arms could shake it and dumped it out and rinsed with the garden hose, let dry and put back. Drove to Canby a few weeks later and Mrs. d drove it all summer and fall last year. Filter still looks good. Quote Link to comment
Drive510 Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 I'm currently wondering the same thing. I'm in need of pulling my fuel tank to see how bad the damage is. options that I've heard so far for rust removal are: using vinegar and water solution or using molasses and water (ratio 1:9) and let soak for 2 to 4 days. sloshing the inside of the tank can be done with nuts/bolts, chains, and I've even seen people with good welding skills actually just cut it open clean it by hand and re-seal it. I'm still trying to find out what kind of sealer to slosh it with and how long and how much and if it will withstand fuel and prevent rust over time. Also need to know if it would be a good idea to seal the outside of the tank and primer and paint. $100 for a pressure test at a radiator shop doesn't seem like a bad idea for a good price either. I'll be shopping around and playing with my options. Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 I used gravel from my driveway. I always thought you had loose rocks. Quote Link to comment
rusty12ver Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 There is a write-up I found on line that vw guys do to their tanks and use a por-15 sealant specific for the tank. When I was looking at options I was quoted $150.00 to boil the tank. Then it would be more to seal it. I pulled my tank and found it was clogged with sediment, and not rusted. I drained the tank, used 3m throttle plate cleaner, then used bailing wire twisted up and shoved it through the outlet. Then I used a flat metal blade from a wiper blade and twisted it in there. I was Able to fix it. If I had a rusted tank I would follow por-15 write up. I will see about posting the link. Quote Link to comment
rusty12ver Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 http://www.ratwell.com/technical/FuelTankRestoration.html Quote Link to comment
albyneau Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 What about sloshing around some Klean Strip phosphoric acid ($15, Home Depot)? That'll get rid of the rust fo sho. Phosphoric acid does not "get rid" of rust~ it chemically neutralizes it. First do the NismoDr/DatzenMike thing to remove loose/flaking rust, THEN the phosphoric acid solution diluted to 50% w/ distilled water. Distilled not necessary, but an extra step I always take~ and NEVER use well water! Let it dry well~ we're talking DAYS. Then for the ultimate finish get a fuel tank coating (last one I did I think was from POR-15) to thwart a possible relapse, AND it puts an extra margin of sealing around the tank's weld seams. Quote Link to comment
burrito213 Posted June 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 so far i am liking the nuts and bolts idea and then seal it. however, the radiator guy warned me that if he did it, i would get it cleaned, no worries, no issues.... but then, i was warned that if i did it myself and the sealer, for some reason, did not stick to the tank walls that i would end up having sealer floating around in the tank and thats not good. i have tried the gravel option to something else, an expansion tank, and it didnt really work. also, the tank has a splash guard/baffle so i cannot see what it looks like past that. i also need to make sure that the fuel sending unit/float works so i can use it because if it doesnt then why would i need to get the tank cleaned. there is pleanty of space if i remove the spare tire....new tank would be my last option. Quote Link to comment
burrito213 Posted June 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 thanks for the help everyone. ;) Quote Link to comment
wildmaninid Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 Good luck to you on it! Quote Link to comment
Drive510 Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 Document and post pics. I'd like to see what you do. I may be mistaken but I don't think you can buy por15 in california. Cali EPA has really cracked down. Quote Link to comment
Shagy Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 http://www.por15.com/Fuel-System-Restoration/products/12/ looks good.... Quote Link to comment
burrito213 Posted June 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 ill test my float tommorow. if it works, ill then buy the por 15. Quote Link to comment
albyneau Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 While hidden in my explanation, I did not fully describe proper use of Phosphoric acid. It is imperative that all flaking rust be removed, or the H3PO4 will be ineffective~ as it has no pentrative properties beyond the surface for which it comes in contact.... My humblest apologies~ Scott Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted June 22, 2011 Report Share Posted June 22, 2011 Phosphoric acid does not "get rid" of rust~ it chemically neutralizes it. First do the NismoDr/DatzenMike thing to remove loose/flaking rust, THEN the phosphoric acid solution diluted to 50% w/ distilled water. Distilled not necessary, but an extra step I always take~ and NEVER use well water! Let it dry well~ we're talking DAYS. Then for the ultimate finish get a fuel tank coating (last one I did I think was from POR-15) to thwart a possible relapse, AND it puts an extra margin of sealing around the tank's weld seams. Whenever I've used the Klean Strip stuff my parts come out as clean, bare metal. Could be other additives in the mix, but it doesn't leave me with a black residue like other "rust converters". Just sayin... Quote Link to comment
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