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Doctoraudio's 1969 Snow White Goon


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The difference was 20 bucks.

But it took 5 mins on the drill press.

So today I confirmed I have a closed chamber A87 head!

It look real good in my cylinders.
Been driving it for two years and the there is no deposits stuck to the values.

No scratches on the walls.
Man, I love this motor!

I need to get a header, that is what Bob at the Datsun shop said.

But that sounds like something to do in the Spring.

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dude, just read through this build, and i gotta say, i LOVE it! looks like a 90's build with the rims you have and the stance, i like it! :thumbup: :thumbup:

 

 

Welcome back!

 

Thank you guys!

 

I have been sick and lazy to work on car.

 

I guess this is the next phase of mods and replacements.

 

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Okay!

I have to admit, my f-ing back is killing me.
I am going to have to recover one of these seats.

I love the seat style and they hug my little ass.
But, it is too freaking stiff.
Best seats I ever had was the high back seats from an 86 pathfinder.

That was recovered!

The seats I always wanted are the ones I have now. But the padding is all wrong.

I am going to have to a chat with someone on this one.

Also I don't like the side mirrors on the front fenders or on the dam doors.
Looks like a wink mirror is going in a day or two.
I don't care about what people think about the traditional look or the Rat-Rod look.

It is what I want.

 

Also why the hell is traction bars so f-ing expensive?

In the 80's you could buy a set for f-ing 29 bucks.
80 bucks is fucking crazy! 

When you can make weld-on ones for less than 20 bucks.

Who knows, I may get a wild hair up my ass and just make some!

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1. Camber plates installed: Total cost was less than 90 bucks and that includes the oil in the struts!

 

2. New front tires: Can't find two used ones in my price range yet, may buy two new ones.

 

3. Alignment: Can't do until the new tires get here! I did do the drive around with chalk on the tire and adjust to the covers the full range of the thread! It feels so much better in the response in the turning from right to left two.

Before it was super responsive in and out of corners. Also really sensitive to the ruts in the road. Get on the freeway and I would be fighting the wheel all the way down the road.
Now, I can. I can sit in the ruts and let go of the wheel. It is almost like auto pilot.

Must make this point!

I can change lanes and the car does not want to wonder.
We will see what the guys say at the shop, when the pros do it. 

 

 

4. Hid headlights: Ordered the lens and bulbs, to be pick up today. I have read that I need to switch the ground and the low beam wires going from stock to H4!

 

5. Carpet: I missed the drop off time. So today is the day to get the raw carpet!

 

6. Headliner: Last thing on the list for a reason! May be a must after the wink mirror we will see!

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Dammit, was out looking for something and missed carpet again.
LOL!

 

But, I got the lens and bulbs they are nicer than I thought and they are glass.

Guy behind the counter said they were plastic.

Amazon has them

 

 

IPCW CWC-7003 5-3/4" Plain Round Conversion Headlight - 1 Piece

http://www.amazon.com/IPCW-CWC-7003-Plain-Conversion-Headlight/dp/B000NZUQ56

 

 

Price: $18.60 FREE Shipping on orders over $35.
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banzai510(hainz)

After looking at it long enough, I decide to slap some relays in tomorrow.

And replace the sockets too.

 

I also found that the out put shaft of my Alt was loose. 

So I will put it apart later tonight and fix it!

Hopefully it is not to bad.

I have fixed many of these.

If I had room I put just slap a Leece Neville 350 amp alt.

But it a weighs more than my Optima red top. More like out weighs it by two!

Since I found that loose bolt on the alt. 

I just decided to  clean up some wiring. 

 

Nothing fancy or long term, just make it look better than it did. 

Wires were hanging everywhere.

I wanted to make sure all the wires were running from the right sections of the car.

 

 

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yes the connecters are the same.

Just the higher watt bulbs require a harness of thicker wire. The harness will plug in the pass side outside plug and triggers the new harness(relays) which is hooked up the the battery usually I hook it up on the starter lug so it hides it better.

I got the H4 lamps more for better lights on Low beam. a 50amper is all that really is needed. but it you have beeter that great. somebody said the newer Subaru alts fit also(but you need to make the jumpers since its a Inter reg type.

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yes the connecters are the same.

Just the higher watt bulbs require a harness of thicker wire. The harness will plug in the pass side outside plug and triggers the new harness(relays) which is hooked up the the battery usually I hook it up on the starter lug so it hides it better.

I got the H4 lamps more for better lights on Low beam. a 50amper is all that really is needed. but it you have beeter that great. somebody said the newer Subaru alts fit also(but you need to make the jumpers since its a Inter reg type.

Roger!

I was up late.

I got up and just freaking pulled it all out.

To do it the way your talking about.

I read your post and figured you knew it best. So there!

LOL!

 

I also cleaned up the throttle choke and fuel shutoff valve.

Looks much better.

Should work more consistent.

Wrapping my alarm wires too and running two more grounds.

Going to run the ground wires from the bulbs.

Before I go over the my buddies who has the relays and rest of the stuff!

I will post some pics of it when done!

Everything on line makes research so freaking easy now a days!

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heres the harness I have. Made in China but this is for info for you.

I Installed mine in like 15 mins and was EZ if yours has been changed then its up to you to get it right.

There are other harnesses out there that are better I just tried it and it works and hid it well so not to much of a eyesore.

but its a good read

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Headlights.shtml

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Engine is somewhat clean again!
No ready to cook me a steak on a touring run.
But good enough to show again.
Cleaned up the wire mess.
Took three rolls of good tape.
First roll went left and then right and then left!
Not perfect but much better than it was.


 

 

1463968_10152004215943891_1848623818_n.j

 

 

H4's mounted and on an running pretty cold. I put a temp gauge on them for an hour.
Sitting in the drive way.
Never got hot!
 

1454844_10152004217778891_1090530665_n.j

 

 

1452105_10152004217753891_1982371123_n.j

 

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Motor:
Block: L18
Head: A87 (Peanut Head)
Valves: triple polished.
1 mm wider pistons and bore on the cylinders
Cam: Stock U20
Polished intake manifold
Carb: 32/36 ( needs to jetted a little smaller)
Distributor: Plextronic ( Pointless )
Exhaust: 2 1/4 to the tip!

 

Front Suspension:
Stock struts ( removed and replaced shock oil with 15w.
Camber Plates. (brought the front down another inch!)
Front springs: 250 lb 
Plan on trying the old springs with the new setup
Stock (160 lb)
205/40/16
Rear shocks: KYB heavy load shocks (wagon)
Rear tires: 205/50/16

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banzai510(hainz)

Okay man, buddy had everything I needed.

If I was super cheap.

Two of the relay looked to be about 10 -15 years old.

Wires were the wrong size.

 

So, I just laughed.

So, I went and tried to find 5 pin relays.

Autozone / Nope

Radio Shack / Nope

Kentch's / Nope

 

Will try Baxter's, Napa and another!

 

I want to build this myself.

But I am running into issues, so I may just order it.

Sucks ass!

 

(*&($(&((&(%$#%$!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Also I am pissed about the carpet too.

I ordered low profile office carpet.

What I got was low profile shag carpet.

I laughed and then went the fuck off.

I said, some nasty things.

 

I will get carpet later.  

 

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Okay, I think I am going to run four relays and resolve this issue.
 

So what I an thinking is use the stock wires all the way close to the headlamps and put the new relays next to each light. 

I will be using the stock wires for signal only to the relays.

Will run new power to the relays from the battery and a fuse box.

 

So each light will get it's on relay.
And that will be the easiest setup!

Won't need the diodes or anything else.
The place I see the most heat in the headlamps section is the stock fuse box.
Should be pretty straight forward.

Plus it will be good what every, I run for lights.

 

 

This would be the right side!
2013-12-01212820_zps4f44ffb8.jpg

What you think guys?

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