banzai510(hainz)

just be careful if one takes the rod out off the master. Frank and his sons SSS sedan they swapped the rod out and one day driving the clip that held the rod inside broke off or fell off cause it wasnt done right . Well going to stop light the rod delinked itself to the back inside the master and well the SSS grilee hodd ect all got smashed!!!!!!!!!! made in Japan of not make sure tHIS DONT HAPPEN

Its rare to even find a Tokico or Nabco Master anymore.Maybe in Austraila.

Nice looking tires I need somefor my Cherokee

Part number for what? Really show a photo of your dist inside it. and photo of the coil and if writing on it. then show whats hooked up to it. Really you nned to find the ON wire that goes to the coil and the START wire look at fuse box ans find ignition fuse. this will go to thee key switch then out to the distributor/coil area. On most 510s and early datsun the white/Black wire is POWER when key ON\Black/Blu is Key START.(to check this just remove the starter wire then have soem body turn the switch to START and see where this wire is. If you have these 2 wires the car will run. the black/green is just a jumper ,One can make this if not there

Most aftermarket Masters one has to cut them shorter,Cause the threaded rod hit the back of the pedal if too long which can preload the master as it mounts to firewall as it pushes the master rod in when clevis is hooked up, Must be adjusted

If there is a spring on the brake pedal isnt that the same as putting your foot under and lifting it? So its stuck enought to not even spring tension to pull it back?

This is Typical Datsun owner!!!!!!!!

to check for spark you dont need a spark plug tester. just pull the center wire from the distributor cap and place near ground and it should fire if the points are justed right and you have power to the Coil when which is ON and have Power to the coil during START as most Datsun had a ballast resisitor which is bypassed during START key position

Lotsof L20s have cracks between the block water ports going to the head. Look at the center ones. this is on the block. These are on running engines. I had 2 L20s go in shop cause one guy would not warentee his work with the crack when he magnafluxed the block. Was it enought to keep stock and on a running car. I will assume yes. But I scapped it. Used the other I had. I myself if I would do over again is a best stock L20 block stock pistons dish with closed chamber head. I would have the ports matchport to the Datsun Comp intake manifold that I had at the time. 1.5inch get a mid range type cam 475 -490 lift duration 260 270 280 290 duration. valve train of coarse Dual Mikinis Bolt it together and just run it anything with machine shop will cost $$$$$$$$ for minor gains

fit 521 or 510 or both? Might make sense.The 521 has a screw s/body brake bots nutsand all threats on a 521 were SAE threads exept for the L16 was metric besides,the oil sender)

soem one said Mikunis are better cause they have a low, mid,high circut. Weber more on off the numbering sytem is weird for them. I had 2 st of Mikunis 44s and sold them for 1200. wheich really was a good price with the Datsun Bigport manifold already to bolt up

I usually swap from the passenger side till that one breaks on my 521 I had some spares but cant find them right now. If you find a swap let me know,I just awnsered my own question found this just now https://www.ebay.com/itm/225843612005?itmmeta=01HV7HRG5WH43NP0MZ18PKFN3D&hash=item3495540965:g:cYUAAOSwE2BlP5zV&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8OsUC0B5%2BZKyCiAm4tiZiYctlS%2FtBTsBMWLY0UZKfThhRfiQd3k%2FgUFX4Gl1LQFSGu%2FBUkEYhK13XuR5Pjc33EDqElRANaAqQQ5mOeEwXq075IuGd8jxMma87fiAr2l7w00iIuat1834WeJb788w0Vzcgng2tRlqobWEn4UaCMXjIbQPotkqKyr7xohXUcLgXjNrft6hvWRaAHFhLGWhnGuOiuFRHXpigWGRrqSxyCee2TduKY4D2a7efxYqH940ZPdezA4jnlwCrvIsz4q2jl2iRx5a0LpzMvTfBXEui2m0caRW3YNRc--tXPx3y%2BiBdg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMgIPi8dlj his link to his parts https://www.ebay.com/str/timevehicle/Datsun-Nissan-Retro/_i.html?store_cat=3879417619&_pgn=1

for the street I like my40mm Mikinus better that 44s I say listen here first unless this guy has L motors all over his garage and then that still might not mean nothing(just a collector) Contack Byron on the 510 realm (hes in the Vancouver BC area)and he can get the most bang for buck out of a L motor with bolt on stuff.To get the last 5 HP out of these might cost thousands.

do a motor timing check like in the vid I sent you. put motor at TDC and check the cam timing and then youll know if you jumped a tooth. then look at your distributor timing and make sure its within reason of it being timed at TDC. I believe the #*DGES can be made to install a idle cut off selinoid but thats least of the proplems right now. Check timing and make sure the gas is in there. I would check my rocker arms, check for spark wires ect as this only takes a few minutes to me back fire is out of time. Check inside the dist for loose parts . or maybe the dist is just loose and drifted to one side

just drive what you have and be happy. You think the timing jumped 2 teeth. I highly dought that ,maybe installed wrong? Guess it could happen. No datsuns on east coast!!!!!!!!!it runs now. leave it not many left as most are Im going to do a KA swap and never happens 90% of the time.