izzo Posted March 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2011 compression test 1. 25 2. 140 3. 142 4. 50 Wonder what that is. I noticed there was a little steam coming out the ass end, and some backfires (could just be water in the muffler) I noticed a little bit of wind coming out the top of the valve cover vent, but no oil. The chain guides are shot, just metal left. i can't imagine that does anything good for timing with a floppy chain. timings dead on, valves are set correct for cold settings. Ideas? Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted March 20, 2011 Report Share Posted March 20, 2011 Pour a little oil in each cylinder and re-check the compression. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted March 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2011 Pour a little oil in each cylinder and re-check the compression. was just thinking that :D Ill be back in a bit with second reading Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted March 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2011 cylinder one gained 5psi, cylinder four gained 7-8 with oil in the cylinder. HG?? Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted March 21, 2011 Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 cam timing? if you said the chain guide are gone would it be possible for an extremely worn chain to skip a tooth maybe? im hittin a wall... :blink: Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted March 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 Chain looks good, but the chain guides are toast. when i goto TDC on the crank pulley, the lobes look right, as does the distributor. that makes me think its alright :D #1 and #4 psi was weak. worries me, i figured a blow head gasket would cause 2 pistons in a row to read weak. but i added oil, and it didn't raise it but 5-8 psi max... Was kind of wondering too if since the chain guides are gone, and im sure the tensioner is probably toast, maybe that is causing it to jump around/not stay consistently tight??? I can adjust the timing up/down and it doesn't really get better/worse Quote Link to comment
datto510 Posted March 21, 2011 Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 Have you tried driving it? Your valves may look like this... Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted March 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2011 Have you tried driving it? Your valves may look like this... haha, no. i haven't tried driving it. i can't imagine doing that either. takes a day to rev it up :rofl: Freaky510 was gonna come over tomorrow with a cherry picker for me to borrow but looks like his truck is running like poop now. project is at a stand still Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted March 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 Ordered new main bearings, rod bearings, and rings today. Rod bearings are coming into napa tomorrow morning, the other two i had to order from rock auto at a retarded price due to the rest of the parts places not carrying anything and it being a few weeks out. Got all new gaskets. Hopefully start the rebuild process not this weekend but the following. I have to work sunday thru next friday, so i wont get another chance to do much until then. Should have a cherry picker this weekend. Will have to borrow a hone and ring compressor (thanks micro). Hope this rebuild works, its eating up all my savings and i gotta get it done (i have no ride till this goon gets on the road lol) Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted March 24, 2011 Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 Datto, that's a cool looking head. That must be one of those rare low compression models? Quote Link to comment
Rob W. Posted March 24, 2011 Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 Sorry to see the troubles. I hope it all works out and you get that green machine back on the road soon. Quote Link to comment
datto510 Posted March 24, 2011 Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 Datto, that's a cool looking head. That must be one of those rare low compression models? Super low! :rolleyes: Quote Link to comment
freaky510 Posted March 24, 2011 Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 haha, no. i haven't tried driving it. i can't imagine doing that either. takes a day to rev it up :rofl: Freaky510 was gonna come over tomorrow with a cherry picker for me to borrow but looks like his truck is running like poop now. project is at a stand still plan on comming down Saturday in the am Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 24, 2011 Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 on the low cylinders make sure you have valve lash. or to wing it just make sure the rocker is loose when cam lobe is up. if not then see if you can adjust it so the rocker is loose. Loose rocker mean the valave is closed all the way. If tight then compression is getting pushed out and not a good explosion. if you cant lower the rocker arm post any more(maxed out) then your valves are sunk and need another head. if you have cracked valve I think you would have alot of blowby out the top valve cover or crank case Quote Link to comment
NWOleman Posted March 24, 2011 Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 thats gonna b a sweet ride! Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted March 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 on the low cylinders make sure you have valve lash. or to wing it just make sure the rocker is loose when cam lobe is up. if not then see if you can adjust it so the rocker is loose. Loose rocker mean the valave is closed all the way. If tight then compression is getting pushed out and not a good explosion. if you cant lower the rocker arm post any more(maxed out) then your valves are sunk and need another head. if you have cracked valve I think you would have alot of blowby out the top valve cover or crank case I adjusted the valves, they were super tight. I couldn't get the .008 in the ones that were supposed to be 10. I adjusted them all to cold spec. I can put the correect size feeler gauge in any cam lobe now. I hope the heads not bad, its a W53. Tho i am about outta cash so i might have to ditch it and find something else. There was a little blowby, but no oil coming out. Just a little more air than i am used to. didn't check it after adjusting the valves tho. Freaky510 to the rescue saturday. Can pull the motor out, put it in my shed and tear it down. Going to inspect the valves, see if i notice any cracks or bad spots. Can inspect the head gasket also, I would think if it was a bad head gasket it would be two cylinders together, but then again it would be odd for the valves to go bad on two different cylinders also. The chain guides are completely worn out and gone, only metal left, dont even know about the tensioner. Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted March 24, 2011 Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 Another way to narrow it down. Take an old sparks plug and hollow it out so you can weld an air filling to it allowing you to hook compressed air to it. With both valves closed, put air to that cylinder. If all is good, you shouldn't hear any air coming form the carb, exhaust. A little will be heard from the PCV hookup under normal conditions. If you hear air coming from either the intake or exhaust, try tapping on the top of the valve with a small piece of wood and hammer while being fed with air. If there is a piece of carbon not allowing the valve to seat properly, some times, it will break away allowing the valve to close. If not, you potentially have a valve issue. Also, I see you too need a rear inner hatch seal. I found that the Nissan Pulsar nx, WITH A TRUNK, has a seal on the trunk that works awesome! You will come up about a foot and a half short with just one seal. So, you'll need two of them. I got mine from the JY for $5.00 each. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted March 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 Another way to narrow it down. Take an old sparks plug and hollow it out so you can weld an air filling to it allowing you to hook compressed air to it. With both valves closed, put air to that cylinder. If all is good, you shouldn't hear any air coming form the carb, exhaust. A little will be heard from the PCV hookup under normal conditions. If you hear air coming from either the intake or exhaust, try tapping on the top of the valve with a small piece of wood and hammer while being fed with air. If there is a piece of carbon not allowing the valve to seat properly, some times, it will break away allowing the valve to close. If not, you potentially have a valve issue. Also, I see you too need a rear inner hatch seal. I found that the Nissan Pulsar nx, WITH A TRUNK, has a seal on the trunk that works awesome! You will come up about a foot and a half short with just one seal. So, you'll need two of them. I got mine from the JY for $5.00 each. Wow man. Thanks for that wealth of knowledge! No junk yards around here, ill keep my eyes peeled tho. I do have a fitting that goes into the spark plug hole for my compression tester. So i could goto the hardware store and find something that fit into that adapter, and try that out. I have tomorrow off, might just venture out and try it :D Brother in law is a mechanic, said he would relap the valves and put new rubber seals on them for about 30 bucks. Hes laid off right now and works for 20 an hour, said it'd take him about 1 1/2 hours.. problem is i dont have a way to get there :rofl: Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted April 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2011 Pulled the head, head gasket is newer! Fel pro, and its in good shape, tho i wont re-use it. Got some burned valves, oics later... Just got outta the shower, gonna go eat and hit the town Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted April 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 #1 #2 #3 #4 Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted April 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2011 NWOleman hooked me up with some sentra seats. Got around to cleaning them today. Passenger seat is on the right, it needs a little more cleaning but good enough for now. ill get them in the wagoon this weekend. before after Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 29, 2011 Report Share Posted April 29, 2011 I dont know about them seats.Plasic 510 seats are EZER to clean when your girlfrind spills the Coke all oer the seat and say its just a 510! I have never had a valve go bad like you show. But seen it before in a head I got from Tedd. I guess I have been lucky. If its a W53(closed chamber,yeah baby) and it didnt leak water(very IMPORTANT) its still good but needs money to recondition it. I would give 50$ for it. Quote Link to comment
Lüdvig Posted April 29, 2011 Report Share Posted April 29, 2011 I need to find a goon. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted April 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2011 I dont know about them seats.Plasic 510 seats are EZER to clean when your girlfrind spills the Coke all oer the seat and say its just a 510! I have never had a valve go bad like you show. But seen it before in a head I got from Tedd. I guess I have been lucky. If its a W53(closed chamber,yeah baby) and it didnt leak water(very IMPORTANT) its still good but needs money to recondition it. I would give 50$ for it. :rofl: Actually, she hated 510s when i showed htem to her. Then i bought the orange wagon, and was cruising around in it. A lot of hot chicks kept coming up to me telling me its a cute car. She likes them now :lol: I've never head a valve go bad either man. I do know the exhaust gasket was blown out on #1, and thats where the bad valve is... Soon as i get some new valves for it, im having a mechanic re-grind it, relap it, new rubber seals etc... It is a W53. Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted May 3, 2011 Report Share Posted May 3, 2011 I need to find a goon. YA, well im thinking i should have bought THIS ONE!! .......................................................but actually..... Quote Link to comment
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