skyblue Posted June 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2011 I've been having problem after problem with my 521. When I read your ignition problem, I'm curious if when it shuts down on you, is the coil HOT to the touch. We've had this problem with British cars at my fathers shop. They start back up again a few minutes later when the coil has cooled. I have a hunch that's what it may be, but you have the right resistance in your coil so I'm not sure anymore... tell me about it. The coil was not hot to the touch. it felt fine. I the resistor was actually not even hooked up. it still isnt. The problem ended up being a bad "matcbox". I replaced it with a brand new one and she's been running great since March. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted June 23, 2011 Report Share Posted June 23, 2011 Glad that you decided against selling. Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted June 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2011 me too. i just needed to count to 10. i was pretty angry when i made that decision. luckily i had no takers. next time i get that idea in my head slap me.:lol: Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 23, 2011 Report Share Posted June 23, 2011 I've been having problem after problem with my 521. When I read your ignition problem, I'm curious if when it shuts down on you, is the coil HOT to the touch. We've had this problem with British cars at my fathers shop. They start back up again a few minutes later when the coil has cooled. I have a hunch that's what it may be, but you have the right resistance in your coil so I'm not sure anymore... Josh British cars suck electrically. but Im sure you heard this before. Point vehicles need a a POINT COIL and a ballast resisitor. Do NOT installe a EI coil with points or a point conversion(Pertronix, Unilite ect...) Skyblu 521 ,runs a matchbox he only needs a EI coil and DOESNT need to run a ballast resisitor. Also Skyblu ck under the fuel poump soemtimes they leak and makes the fron cover look bad also. I alsoways pressure wash it to dint where it comes from but soemtimes its only going to be a whole front cover regasket and its not worth it till it breaks or do a head gasket change ect.. Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted June 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2011 Banzai. I actually did check under the fuel pump and it was leaking. I changed the gasket. So i guess it wasn't the timing cover. But i still have a leak. I looked more closely and it looks like it might b the rear main seal. Cause it leaks slowly while idling from the back of the engine. Thats gonna b fun to change. Quote Link to comment
josh817 Posted June 24, 2011 Report Share Posted June 24, 2011 Just like to say you're thread here is inspiring. I've had nothing but trouble with my 521, trying to get it together yet running out of money and time before school. I was thinking about scrapping the project but I'll be so happy and excited when I'm done. Just have to rough it out through these gremlins! Good work, its fun to see it come together. My 521 is that interesting Datsun blue too... Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 24, 2011 Report Share Posted June 24, 2011 Josh I saved my 521 fro death many times. But I do have the money to fix it. Once I fix it I feel good about myself. Others on here might have dumped it long ago and then they get another project they cant handle. Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted June 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 thx. it's been a bumpy road. but it's totally worth it i think. glad i could inspire. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
Uncle Laulau Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 Wow mandingo, that was some good work. I was totally blown away at the hard work you put in. Way to go. The wiring of the Matchbox is something I am still working out. The way I looked at it was to buy all the stuff that came off an engine that had a matchbox, I think I asked for distributor and stuff from a 720 or something year I don't remember you get the point. It's funny how people on the forum will say ahh no you don't need this or that just do this, but the parts guy says this is what came on the year and model truck you asked for. Ya see what I mean? So you end up with a hybrid wiring job half ratsun and half from the book. This is the fun of working on old cars, there is a gray area of opinion and history. Does that make any sense? Nice truck hombre. Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted June 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 thx. Yea definitely. It has been a challenge work on my "frankengine", matchbox dizzy, L20 cam, peanut head, webber carb, wrong(510) oil pan, dogleg tranny.The tricky part has been trying to figure out what year, and car parts i have on my rig. I've had to go back to parts store and return shit cause i got the wrong stuff. it has been an uphill battle trying to get everything right, but i see the light at the end of the tunnel. I love my truck and keeping it going. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted June 26, 2011 Report Share Posted June 26, 2011 but i see the light at the end of the tunnel. I love my truck and keeping it going. Don't ever forget. Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted July 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2011 pulled the valve cover off for the first time to check valve clearance. (lost pic) Supposed to be an L20 cam. but not sure. only markings i saw were U20 and either zz or 22(not shown). sorry for bad pic, crappy cell phone cam. Anyone know how to Identify cams? (lost pic) Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted September 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 flushed my radiator today. this is what came out. (lost pic) i had to flush it like 3 times before it started to clear up. shoulda done this a long time ago. Quote Link to comment
lil89ram50 Posted September 7, 2011 Report Share Posted September 7, 2011 as far as i know, you can tell if it is an l20 cam by the square lump shown in your pics. i'd say it is an l20 cam Quote Link to comment
lil89ram50 Posted September 7, 2011 Report Share Posted September 7, 2011 your runnin dexcool? Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted September 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2011 as far as i know, you can tell if it is an l20 cam by the square lump shown in your pics. i'd say it is an l20 cam right on. thanks for the confirmation. Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted September 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2011 your runnin dexcool? dexcool? Quote Link to comment
lil89ram50 Posted September 7, 2011 Report Share Posted September 7, 2011 that orange coolant is dexcool. it looks good. its not dirty coolant. theres a few different colors of antifreeze. Some have different contents too. Dexcool is something used in a lot of todays newer cars. It has a lot of silicone in it. I prefer the green stuff way over the dex. if mixed with green, it will gum up and plug the hell out of your heater core. so make sure it is all flushed out! Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted September 7, 2011 Report Share Posted September 7, 2011 I prefer the green stuff way over the dex. if mixed with green, it will gum up and plug the hell out of your heater core. so make sure it is all flushed out! Sometimes just mixing yellow and green coolants can cause this also...what a nightmare Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted September 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2011 that orange coolant is dexcool. it looks good. its not dirty coolant. theres a few different colors of antifreeze. Some have different contents too. Dexcool is something used in a lot of todays newer cars. It has a lot of silicone in it. I prefer the green stuff way over the dex. if mixed with green, it will gum up and plug the hell out of your heater core. so make sure it is all flushed out! oh man, really? i thought it was rusty water. well i flushed my rad like 4 times. hopefully i got it all. Quote Link to comment
lil89ram50 Posted September 8, 2011 Report Share Posted September 8, 2011 Sometimes just mixing yellow and green coolants can cause this also...what a nightmare yupp cleaning up clogged radiators and heater cores blows hardcore!! oh man, really? i thought it was rusty water. well i flushed my rad like 4 times. hopefully i got it all. nope, looks like its fresh clean stuff too lol but good for you, you must be a natural to know its shit anyways! green is really the only way to go. theres a few diff colors. at least yellow, orange, pink, green. make sure you have a good quality coolant! you will know the difference! weather is doesnt cool normal, or eats your radiator apart Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted September 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2011 well you learn something new everyday. yea i've always used the green. thanks lil89ram50. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted September 13, 2011 Report Share Posted September 13, 2011 remember to flush the entire coolant system to make sure all that dexcool is gone Quote Link to comment
skyblue Posted September 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2011 So my clutch slave took a dive yesterday and it's just puking brake fluid. gonna fix it soon. The hose is pretty toast too so i want to rplace that, I cant seem to find one. All my local parts stores dont list it. It looks very similar to the brake hose so I'm wondering if i can just order a brake hose from rockauto and hook it up? Anyone know if this is possible? thx Quote Link to comment
lil89ram50 Posted September 26, 2011 Report Share Posted September 26, 2011 you "should" be able to take the hose off and take it to napa or another parts store that makes hoses. they should be able to make you the exact same thing Quote Link to comment
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