Jacob's Goon Build - Now L19 powered.

[RedBanner]

Untill it hits!

[Draker]

Pretty rad!

[jrock4224]

Nice work Jacob but u left your nail polish sitting there ....bro.....readyntonsee the more low now......are u gonna mod the rear seat pan too?

[Eagle_Adam]

looks good man!!! gotta start somewhere 

[Draynor]

Nice!

[izzo]

The cool part about welds, even shitty ones. You can grind them down easily with a die grinder, then see if it got good penetration.  If not just do it againz.

[Laecaon]

Well did a bit more work.

 

Thing about shitty welds, they suck to grind, so Ill try harder at making nicer welds.

 

I picked up some thinner wire, and that helped a bit. Still think gas is the only way to go with sheet metal...

 

But I put a light under the car, and I cant see any light through the welds (no gaps).

 

I really need to address the bottom of the car now. Some of the metal I cut out was 2 ply, and I need to cap that or something.

 

Once I am all happy, Ill probably get some seam sealer on it, and paint it top and bottom.

 

 

 

 

 

I also found the front right leaf mount was loose. So I tightened that. Car feels a little better now, I tightened up all the leaf mounts actually. Figured a 7000 mile suspension check was way too long.

 

I really need to get seat belts. I currently have 710 front seat belts, but 510 receptacles. Well my drivers receptacle died. I also have a problem with the seat belts choking me. The rear belts are just gross looking, but could probably be dropped in the laundry to look good again.

 

I havent been feeling creative, but I need to figure out my door panels. Front doors are going to be easy, just need to do it, and maybe buy some router bits... maybe Ill see what my friend has... The rear I thought was going to be just as easy, but then I realized the rear seat folds down, and that threw a wrench in my thoughts. Plus I dont want to mess with the passenger rear door at all until I get a new door.

 

Blah Blah Blah, I havent forgotten anything, still thinking of everything, just need to get to it.

 

I wonder what will be done by Canby...

[Laecaon]

So I keep losing 2 cylinders while driving. Its my front carb. It seems the needle is intermittently getting blocked. I checked my fuel filter, which was last replaced in 2009, and its kinda dark. Gonna replace that, and check out the carb.

[Laecaon]

New filter in. Still having issues. If only these carbs werent a mystery to me... Ill be in expert in 1.5 hours...

[wayno]

Sounds like you found your issue, front carbs float, that could cause an issue.

You have flat tops or round tops?

[Eagle_Adam]

Did that Float work our man?

[Laecaon]

Problem fixed. Front float took on fuel. Was in the process of sinking.

 

got a new float thanks to eagle Adam.

[Eagle_Adam]

Sweet! Glad ur back up and running!!!

[wayno]

Problem fixed. Front float took on fuel. Was in the process of sinking.

 

got a new float thanks to eagle Adam.

 

Don't throw away the old float, fix it, I fixed my brass float in my 320 when it sunk with a propane torch and some solder.

But you first have to find the tiny hole in it, I found mine by heating it up till the fuel was coming out like steam.

[Laecaon]

Thanks for the tip, I couldn't find the hole.

[Eagle_Adam]

Lolz ^^^

[jrock4224]

Thanks for the tip, I couldn't find the hole.

lol.......seems common...... i wish someone would re pop a plastic float bowl but waynos advice is solid... i got a project set of su's that needs lots of similar attention....first  i got to make a list of whats missing...

 

now time for more lows......are u having to cut into the seat frame to match your sheetmetal fab work?

[Just Joel]

psst... you can still get su floats from Nissan or z therapy ;)

[Laecaon]

psst... you can still get su floats from Nissan or z therapy ;)

 

At 7pm at night? Its my only car. I need it to run.

 

Im sure I can, but I dont know part numbers, and I dont know what crosses over. I like to be informed before I ask.

[Laecaon]

Ok, so maybe its not completely fixed.

 

Car idles fine now, drives fine. But does not racecar well anymore.

 

At about 4500 rpm the front carb messes up again and the engine stumbles. Im really not sure whats going on.

 

About a week ago, I leaned the carbs 1 full turn. I had them rich for easy starts in the winter.

 

Then I had my problem, put in a plastic float, and cured almost all ailments.

 

Now this.

 

Maybe it didnt like the hot weather today (but thats why I leaned the carbs...)

 

I am not getting any pinging.

[CorAce]

Have you checked the oil in them? I don't, but I know some guys use a different wight of oil in the summer. And how many turns out do you have them set to?

[wayno]

I can't remember, do you have a heat shield? You need a heat shield.

Mine misses when I get off the freeway and have to stop at a signal, the fuel starts to boil in the bowls, I have a heat shield, but I also have headers.

Sometimes you have to set the fuel mixture by the spark plug color once you have it close, you can get it to lean also.

[Laecaon]

Oops. Forgot to update here...

 

Problems are all fixed now.

 

Turned out to be one of my carb to manifold nuts backed off, lock washer not doing its job, time for either nylocks, or crush nuts.

 

 

 

Have you checked the oil in them? I don't, but I know some guys use a different wight of oil in the summer. And how many turns out do you have them set to?

 

I forget what oil I have in them, I think I am just running 10w30... I need to check the turns out, but I think its around 2...

 

I can't remember, do you have a heat shield? You need a heat shield.

Mine misses when I get off the freeway and have to stop at a signal, the fuel starts to boil in the bowls, I have a heat shield, but I also have headers.

Sometimes you have to set the fuel mixture by the spark plug color once you have it close, you can get it to lean also.

 

 

I have a heat shield, its what the springs attach to...

 

I have no misses, or pinging, or anything really, just running swell. I really like the response of the carbs, there is never a stumble. And my car seems to run coolest on the freeway, gotta love 3 row radiators!

 

I played around with the mixture to get a decent amount of power, I leaned them a bit, took it for a run, decided it wasnt up to snuff, made them a bit richer (1/4 turn) and had it feeling more powerful, so I stopped there.

 

My readings have suggested SUs have more power when slightly rich, and more economy slightly lean. Im guessing Im somewhere in between.

[CorAce]

Oops. Forgot to update here...

 

Problems are all fixed now.

 

Turned out to be one of my carb to manifold nuts backed off, lock washer not doing its job, time for either nylocks, or crush nuts.

 

 

 

 

I forget what oil I have in them, I think I am just running 10w30... I need to check the turns out, but I think its around 2...

 

 

 

I thought you might have it going again, it had been a few days since your last post. I think what I've read talks about 2.5-3 turns out is a good starting point, I wouldn't go too lean because it make the engine run a little hotter in the summer. You may want to try a strait 20 wt. in them to, I noticed a big increase in throttle response on mine. If you want to swing by I got a couple of good book on SU's you can borrow.

[Laecaon]

Got tired of more electrical stupidity. Remember my DZ start problems? Well it was never the DZ start's fault, but a corroded connector on the fusible link. When I removed the fusible link, the end fell off... Well luckily I was at Skibs when I determined that, and he had fusible link wire... We made a piece, slapped it on, and all was good.

 

Except one thing, the fusible link was a tad short, and my harness was tugging away from it. Progressively worse over the past month or 2, the DZ start was acting up, and I was even getting no power to the ign switch wires at all (the +12v batt wire). Narrowed it down to my fusible link again. Ran out, grabbed some more fusible link wire, and made a new wire. No more tugging on the connectors, and all seems happy again.

 

Then, since I murdered my door pin switch, Eagle Adam let me pull a hood pin switch from a 620.  I plopped that in, and now my dome lights work again with my drivers door.

 

Next up in the near future, Fix the previous owners sole wiring mistake, wiring the +12 IGN wire for the stereo to the hazard switch... (this causes intermittent cut outs when hitting the brake pedal, and of course, a blinking radio with the hazards on...)

 

 

I thought you might have it going again, it had been a few days since your last post. I think what I've read talks about 2.5-3 turns out is a good starting point, I wouldn't go too lean because it make the engine run a little hotter in the summer. You may want to try a strait 20 wt. in them to, I noticed a big increase in throttle response on mine. If you want to swing by I got a couple of good book on SU's you can borrow.

 

 

I should try some different oil in them.  But what I am most interested in is needles. I get terrible mileage on the freeway, but pretty awesome mileage in the city, compared to my weber. Also, I have noticed that high RPM quick shifts, results in a big puff of black smoke, often resulting in the car behind me changing lanes. Other than that, I have no colored smoke out the tail pipe.