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1200 brake upgrade mklotz70


mklotz70

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  • 3 weeks later...
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Sorry...I guess I didn't technically say that they were ready to go. I've got a handful of them ready to put in boxes and ship. I've got 18 sets of plates. As the first few sell, I'll get the hardware to put the rest of them together. If you want one, pm me for my paypal :)

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I sourced them at Oil Filter Services in Portland, OR. Off the top of my head, I'm not sure how much they were. I bought one set, they were too long, I got stuck with those....then I picked up another set that Doug paid for. You might ask Morrisun (Doug) if he remembers. I'm sure he kept much better track of the cost. I may still have the info, and I really should know this stuff better, but since doing that kit, it hasn't really been on my mind. I need to put up a web page with the details.

 

I just went back through the thread a bit...Summit would probably be your easiest option. Oil Filter was more expensive. The other source I mentioned said they could do it, but I've been trying to do another project with the same guy and I've heard from him once since last Aug...and that was in Sep.....so at this point, I'm not doing anything with them. I think I'd be giving them the specs and then they would be having them made and selling them....no clue what they'd charge.

 

I made a special trip out to the airport this morning before Canby and mailed you kit. :) I'm not positive it went out today, but "it's in the mail" :)

 

Mike

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  • 3 months later...

Mike, Looks like I'm getting a 1200 coupe, so I will be needing one of your kits. Please let me know how much shipped. I hope if all goes well, I'll have the car in the next week. I've been wanting one ever since I sold the one I had back in 73. Where do I go to find out about suspension upgrades? Also I would like to find a set of 13X7 Libres for it if you know where to find a set.

 

Thanks, Jim :D

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  • 2 weeks later...

still a bunch of these available.

 

I don't know what I'm going to do yet. Since you can't find strut inserts for it, I may end up changing struts, if I can find out what will work. I didn't take as many pics on the trip as I planned as right as I left Reno, Gremlins started showing up, nothing major, but enough to be a pain in the ass. I'll let you know as soon as I figure out what route I'm going to take.

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What's the tube diameter? You can shorten the tube to fit an existing cartridge or add a spacer in the bottom of the tube.

 

I don't know exactly, I just know it's smaller than the 2" that most use, that's why there is nothing available for it. :(

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Ron....is there any options to replace the strut assy with one from something else? ie...the 510's swap to 280zx strut assys. I wonder if the spindle chunk at the bottom of the 1200 strut assy could be reworked to handle a 2" tube. They're welded in there pretty seriously, so I doubt it.....just a thought. Hmmm....how close is the OD of the stock 1200 tube compared to the ID of the 2" tubes? Weld one tube over the other kinda I've seen when the 510 guys upgrade to the threaded tubes from a ???? to get adjustability.

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Mike Pashley, dark green 1200 sedan has basically what you described. The stock 1200 strut tube (45mm)was cut about an inch from the bottom of the tube and a (50mm)2 inch tube from a Z car was welded on over it. The original spring seat was ground off and coil overs, thread adjustable collars and springs were installed along with camber plates. 3 degrees of castor were put into the assembly by welding the tube back on, tilted back. He had either KYB or Tokico adjustable struts installed. This allowed him to have great front suspension without giving up his stock brakes-he runs 12" magnesium period correct wheels.

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Thanks! Any idea exactly how they were welded on? Was the tube left above the spindle casting so that it could be welded to the original tube? Were there any holes in the new tube to plug weld to the original tube? Any idea how tight the fit was? I'm guessing it wasn't extremely tight if there was room to add 3 deg of caster. Are you sure it was caster and not camber? I wouldn't think that putting caster in at the base of the tube would actually do anything. I can see how camber would make a big difference.

 

We need to do lunch again soon buddy....are you less busy now? :)

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OK Mike I'll give this a shot. By welding the tube to the spindle base, no holes for plug welding, there is clearance to fit one tube over the other, the bottom of the strut assembly is pulled forward by the manipulating the strut rods, if not the top of the strut would miss the center of the top of the mounting tower. Tubes were MIG welded. Leaving part of the 45mm tube is for locating the 50mm tube more than anything else. This was done to used camber only plates. Castor on 1200's factory specs 20' to 1 degree 50' (' minutes), not much castor and 3 degrees not excessive, but would turn in a little faster.

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I think my concern is that the outer tube is welded to the "cast" spindle and not the inner tube. I guess it's cast steel? ....so not that big of a deal? I used the tension rods to pull the spindle forward, giving more caster, on both the 510 and the NL. So...basically, you could use almost any tube...510, 280....hhmm....or even a 210 tube. The advantage of the 210 tube is that it used small factory spings if you didn't want to switch to coil over. Probably a discussion for an actually 1200 strut thread :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

New to the site .. lots of great info ...just got a 73 1200 ...needs work .. so I was crusing the site and found this ...Well I read most of this thread so if I missed this part ...please excuse me.. I was thinking that if you do the brake upgrade you will have the front rotors left over ..why not use them to make a rear brake kit .. the only problem I see is that rear disc brakes have some kind of e brake caliper system so the front calipers won't work unless you come up with another solution for the ebrake.

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You're more than welcome to look into it. The front rotors are captured...the bolt on to the back side.....so there's no way for them to fit over the axle flange on the rear. Part of the reason for the upgrade is to get away from parts that are getting hard to find. Another reason....once you have these on, you can just about disconnect your rears. :)

I did the fronts on spec and have hardly sold any...not even enough to get my money back yet. If someone really wants rears, I'll do them, but it won't be on spec and it will probably be in the range of $400-600 to prototype them. After that, I could make a kit available. I don't follow 1200 stuff....maybe everyone does strut swaps up front, so they don't need this kit.....so maybe rears would be in higher demand...I don't know.

 

Ron...thanks for adding the links

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