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1200 brake upgrade mklotz70


mklotz70

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  • 2 months later...
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I just went and looked....that's a really sweet brake setup....very similar to what Doug was after, but waaaaay too expensive. Good value for what you get, but a daily driver just doesn't need custom hubs.

 

Doug had a specific idea and I made it happen....the kits were for anyone else that agreed with Doug's idea. I should put it up on ebay and see what happens. I've only posted them here, so they have very limited exposure. I think you put a link on the 1200 site? I never expected them to fly off the shelf. Once gone, I doubt I'll do any more. hhhmmm.....now that I think about it, I'm not sure I've even put up a for sale thread on here for them....just this thread.

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LOL! I might consider that....but I have enough money tied up in parts on shelves. My biggest hesitation with having the rotors and calipers go through me is that I don't look at them or install them. So, if there's a problem when the customer does that, I have to be an middle man for any of that grief. If they order the calipers and rotors themselves, they can deal with it. Plus, they can order slotted, dimpled,...better pads......instead of me trying to handle all the different options guys might want. But, like you said...if I charge a ton of mark up, it might be worth that risk :) Some of the feedback on the roadster kit is that they want an "all inclusive" kit. I'm not sure if it's because they're worried about which parts they order or because they just don't want to be bothered with having to place two or three orders instead of one. Maybe I'll do the same with them too. Order everything in, then mark everything up 50-100% and see what happens :)

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  • 6 months later...

Thanks! This reminded to post here.....and I'll need to check my website. Anyway.......I just picked up another batch of brackets from the laser cutter. I have the hardware on hand as well. These brackets will be plain steel, just as they come from the cutter.....no black zinc. If I still have some when I have a big enough platting batch, I'll have them done.....otherwise, they're $5 cheaper until then :)

 

Plain steel....$50+$5ship= $55(shipped)

 

pm me or head to my site and order them.

 

www.bluehandsinc.com

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Thanks! This reminded to post here.....and I'll need to check my website. Anyway.......I just picked up another batch of brackets from the laser cutter. I have the hardware on hand as well. These brackets will be plain steel, just as they come from the cutter.....no black zinc. If I still have some when I have a big enough platting batch, I'll have them done.....otherwise, they're $5 cheaper until then :)

 

Plain steel....$50+$5ship= $55(shipped)

 

pm me or head to my site and order them.

 

www.bluehandsinc.com

Mike I forgot to thank you for your great job on the kit, it worked great. I used slotted rotors and ceramic pads on mine, and it stops on a dime, and absolutely no fade. Anyone that doesn't do this to their 1200 is nuts!

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There's a good chance they will, but it really depends on the rim......pm Morrisun. He just checked the dimensions for another guy, but I don't remember what they were. Morrisun is the info man.

 

I just got this from another customer....

 

"I quickly checked the rotor and caliper fit inside

my 13 inch rims. Lots of room left, an easy 9/16 to 1/2 inch clearance."

 

This was his rim info.....

"I gave him my rim measurements as follows for Compomotive 13”x7” rims.

 

The inside narrowest measurement at the hub face is 12.20” and at 4” out

near the outside rim edge, the diameter is larger at 12.60”."

 

....and this was Morrisun's measurements on the brakes....

"I just received the email regarding the minimum diameter

required to clear the caliper. He measured 11.65 inches for zero clearance.

I have 12.20 inches on the inside and it increases to 12.60 inches at the

rear of the rim at a distance of 4 inches from the back side, which again

clears the bleeder nipple."

 

 

I'm guessing that you can measure your rims and get a pretty good idea about fit with this info. Sorry I can't be more help......I have nothing here to measure. Maybe I'll turn these over to morrisun and let him sell them since he has to answer all the questions :)

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.....and to answer the rotor/caliper questions......from my site....
 

1200 Disc Upgrade Kit     $60*

Allows the mounting of the rear rotor(non vented) from an '82-88 Nissan 200sx and the front caliper from an '87-89 Nissan Pulsar NX/Sentra. The non-vented rotor was specifically used to keep the weight down.

 


Morrisun has some info about a cross drilled rotor that's been found for a great price. I'll see if I can get that and post it here.

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I am starting this off with what DOES NOT fit.

P8201452.jpg

P8201450.jpg

P8201451.jpg

This a 13" Western Wheel similar to a minilite wheel, the diameter is good BUT the wheel rim tapers to the spokes and is less than 11" before the wheel mounting surface- this is what hits on the calipers.

P8201454.jpg

P8201448.jpg

This mesh wheel 13X7 has the shape of a cylinder with NO taper before the mounting surface.

P8201455.jpg

The two light rusty spots are what come closest to the inside of the rim.

P8201445.jpg

Caliper bleeder is in the way of any wheel with more than 4.5 inches of back spacing. Could use a wheel spacer-just check wheel stud length against wheel mounting thickness and spacers.

P8201462.jpg

On these rims about 9/16 of an inch between rim and caliper bleeder.

One 1200 owner with this brake conversion run 13X8 Rota's but run a fairly thick spacer BECAUSE has a step in the back of the rim where the spokes attach.

13RotaWheel.jpg

13wheel.jpg

So to sum all this up inside rim- on the back- 12" cylinder anything less you are on your own, back spacing 4" maybe 4.25".

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So to sum all this up inside rim- on the back- 12" cylinder anything less you are on your own, back spacing 4" maybe 4.25".

 

Thanks, that will help. :thumbup:

 

The wheels I'm looking at are 13x8 -25. I think they have spun aluminum barrels (3-piece), so I should be fine. I know my 13x7 -0 Diamonds will clear a 280ZX brake, and since these brakes are a little less beefy, I should be good.

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  • 3 weeks later...

This is a response to the 1200 brake kits:

Just got back from a test run. I am very impressed with the enhanced braking capability. A lot more confidence in stopping at high speeds, > 100 MPH. Can easily lock them up but it still has a great pedal feel with no fading whatsoever. The slight increase in wheel offset has actually helped me in the corners with very neutral handling resulting in predictable and controlled four wheel drifts coming out of the corners. Before, I was always leery about the stock brakes even with good brake pads, too much fade after two hard high speed stops. There's absolutely no comparison between the stock brakes and this upgrade. With this setup, I doubt that better braking in the back would help that much as most of the weight gets transferred to the front under hard braking. The rear stock setup is more than adequate.

 

With the calipers and my rims, I easily have 3/8" clearance at the tightest spot. Very nice fit, could easily pass for a factory setup. I ended up using the Mazda Miata hydraulics hoses, which have a OAL of 11.35" or so. Works perfect for now. I will get the stainless steel hoses once I find a local supplier, but for now, the Miata hoses work well. Next on my agenda is to custom fit and make a front air dam, which should help at high speeds.

 

I'm sure glad that you still had those caliper brackets and all of the instructions on the site. What a treasure find. These old Datsuns just keep on living. I really enjoy the 1200 coupe as it is super light and still has a great body style even if it's 41 years old.

 

Cheers

Roger

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This is a response to the 1200 brake kits:

Just got back from a test run. I am very impressed with the enhanced braking capability. A lot more confidence in stopping at high speeds, > 100 MPH. Can easily lock them up but it still has a great pedal feel with no fading whatsoever. The slight increase in wheel offset has actually helped me in the corners with very neutral handling resulting in predictable and controlled four wheel drifts coming out of the corners. Before, I was always leery about the stock brakes even with good brake pads, too much fade after two hard high speed stops. There's absolutely no comparison between the stock brakes and this upgrade. With this setup, I doubt that better braking in the back would help that much as most of the weight gets transferred to the front under hard braking. The rear stock setup is more than adequate.

 

With the calipers and my rims, I easily have 3/8" clearance at the tightest spot. Very nice fit, could easily pass for a factory setup. I ended up using the Mazda Miata hydraulics hoses, which have a OAL of 11.35" or so. Works perfect for now. I will get the stainless steel hoses once I find a local supplier, but for now, the Miata hoses work well. Next on my agenda is to custom fit and make a front air dam, which should help at high speeds.

 

I'm sure glad that you still had those caliper brackets and all of the instructions on the site. What a treasure find. These old Datsuns just keep on living. I really enjoy the 1200 coupe as it is super light and still has a great body style even if it's 41 years old.

 

Cheers

Roger

I'm guessing the setup helps strut clearance if it is spacing the wheels out?

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  • 2 months later...

Question for Mike: Considered master cylinder size? Seems with the bigger piston in this caliper, and it having to move more fluid, you'd want something bigger than the wee little 11/16" 1200 master?

 

My car needs a new one anyway, so I'm going to start with a 510 3/4" master and see what that gets me.

 

Thoughts?

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The consideration in using the Sentra Caliper was the bore, (48mm) was the same as the orginal Datsun 1200 front caliper bore (48mm) and brake swap could be performed without having to change the master cylinder. The rotor size went from 8.375 in diameter to 10,125 and the pad surface area is about 58% greater than the stock 1200 pads. The brake bias, using stock rear wheel cylinders, seems to do the job on the street very well. Jumping 3/16" in master cylinder bore will take a bit more pedal pressure, and it MAY affect the brake bias. Let us know how it works out, most who have tried the brake kit run A series engines, if you are planning on running heavier engine, it may be a consideration, perhaps a brake booster??

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