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About Ron1200

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    Senior Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Olympia, WA, USA
  • Cars
    '79 Datsun 620 KC - Sold, '59 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Sprint, Porsche Boxter S
  • Interests
    Vintage Vehicles & Motorcycles (VTR1000 x2, Moto Guzzi Stelvio, BMW R1200RT, Yamaha SR500 x2)

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  1. Just sharing my experience with SUs... I liked them alot for my daily driver, once I got them working right on the L20b. It took a long time to figure out that the air box that came on the truck - L16 at the time - was causing the SUs to run extremely rich (my wife could smell gas when she followed me in her car). There were two things that I have not seen mentioned that may be useful to you... From my 10/12/16 post I reached Steven at Z-Therapy and found out a couple of things: 1. The air box fitted to the 620 when I purchased it blocked the vents and made the SUs run rich. 2. The jet nozzle can easily be removed (via one screw) out the bottom of the carb and cleaned with a wire brush to fix the sticking choke. (I used a rifle bore brush). [10/9/18 note: I can't remember what size bore brush - maybe .22 or 9mm] From 2nd 10/12/16 post I got the SUs balanced and adjusted, not perfect, but close for a SU newbie... And all I can say is WOW!. This truck drives sooooo much better. Smooth acceleration from idle to redline and better MPG to boot. I can see people here like them. Woot! :thumbup: Took me a while but I finally got the linkage figured out. I could not find adjustment info specific to these carbs... maybe it's obvious to some, but it wasn't for me. Screws circled in red are the high speed balance screws, the screws circled in blue are the typical idle adjustment screws.
  2. The door weather strip I received from rock auto worked great. They say: " Exact Fit; With Clips and Mitered Ends" and that what I got. The top of the '79 door has channels that hold the rubber around the window frame. The lower parts of the door uses little plastic clips that hold the rubber in place. I never needed to use any glue.
  3. Hi Okippy The 620 didn't come with blocks in the rear. The rear end rested on top of the spring pack. Are those 4 inch (102 mm) lowering blocks? You could cut them shorter to get the ride height you are looking for. With a shorter lowering block, I think you can keep the u-bolts you have. I did this on my 620 and cut the extra length off the u-bolts. 3" lowering blocks and air shocks The best arrangement for me was the 720 4x4 springs (3-leafs). I suspect that they may be expensive to ship due to the weight and length. Ted (tdaaj on the forum) did have a set for sale not too long ago. You can check with him if interested. 720 4x4 Spring Install
  4. Hi Charlie I like those wheels alot! Incase you want other center cap options: - Summit Racing has 200 pages of "Wheel Center Caps"... - Ebay has "Datsun Wheel Emblem" choices from 1.75" to 2" right now...
  5. Hi 79kingcab... I'm glad you found your way to Ratsun. There is a lot of good info here. I've had fun with the 620, now its your turn. I see that Steve provide you the link to my build thread. I tried to document the changes and repairs I made over the 7 years I owned it (doesn't seem that long). You may want to start your own build thread to track your progress. Feel free to ask questions. Link to the cool YouTube video from Classwinners.com of your 620... BTW, Sam is a tall guy.
  6. Also available from Rockauto $61.79 (pair - both doors) I think that all years 620 use the same door seal - but I'm not positive on that. This is what I used on my '79... NISSAN 1979 620 PICKUP 2.0L L4 Body Door Seal / Weatherstrip Price METRO LM130 Door Seals; Pair (Left and Right) Info Molded; Exact Fit; With Clips and Mitered Ends
  7. Ron1200

    Air Shocks

    I thought I had updated my original post as my opinion of 'Air Shocks' changed so dramatically. I hate when posts don't have a resolution... Originally reported by me Sept 2011: These shocks suck! Updated opinion Aug 2017: This thing drives/rides great with the air shocks and 720 4x4 springs. The problem was not the air shocks, but the mono-leaf springs. Changing nothing but the springs improved the ride is 110% (or more)... No more bouncy-bouncy, just a well controlled ride. It rides like a car now. Read about it here.
  8. The 620 "The Skyline of Trucks" was sold... It is going Vallejo, California. Hopefully the new owner will show up here.
  9. Ron1200

    LED headlights

    Like this? https://ratsun.net/topic/35291-ron1200s-79-kc-620/?do=findComment&comment=1440054 I used these from Amazon $39.99 each. They worked better than the Sylvania sealed beam halogens I had in there. No wiring upgrades needed.
  10. Mike is right... to get best power use air horns (aka Velocity stacks). However, many don't use them with acceptable results. Alfa Romeo fitted dual sidedraft webers without them from the factory... Mine: This is what the inside of the air box looks like:
  11. This 69k mile 1979 Datsun 620 Deluxe King-Cab Pickup sold on 7/27/18 FOR $9,100. Not perfect but looks original... [/img]
  12. I also replaced my Ignition Control Module (Standard Motor Products LX516) - Temporarily with diet coke - Permanently with a new module (read about it here) Ted: Yup still around... Hey was that a crack about my weight? :) Charlie: New drums weren't to pricey. About $18 each from Rockauto. Steve: I made it a while ago out of 1x3 rectangular tube. JRock's shop did the the powder coating of it and the turn/brake light surrounds in Near Chrome to match.
  13. I've been negligent the updates... Brakes: I finally exorcised the brake vibration. First I installed new front rotors, but it had minimal effect. Then Installed new rear brake drums to replace the old drums that I had turned. That was it. Whoever turned the drums did a crappy job. Really! I had them turned at Cut Rate Auto Parts (CRAP) :) Wheel Bearings: Decided to replace the front wheel bearings as part of the front rotor replacement. After inspecting them they were in great shape, so didn't replace 'em. Popped in new seals and reinstalled them. Tie Rod: The passenger side tie rod's end play was about .25-inch. It wasn't to bad where I mostly drive (< 40 MPH). However it was a chore to keep in my lane at freeway speeds. After the Tie rod was installed, I took it in for an alignment. All is good now. I still need to pull the steering wheel and clock it one spline to realign the wheel to the direction of travel (easy-peasy).
  14. Just a note to close the loop... I installed a new LX516 and have had no issues since (about two weeks). Seems that the engine starts easier and idles smoother. Maybe its just the halo effect :) Sorry Mike, I did not test after I loosened-tightened the screws (there was no crap behind the module). I didn't want the 'cooling dance' hassle on the drive back if it started acting up again. Thanks for all the input guys.
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