Project Grey_Matter

[Grey_Matter]

started from scratch on the carb adjustment, and it seems to be idling like it should, the fuel mixture was waaaaay off, not i have it idling about 800-900rpm. it still fluxuates a tad, but as long as this thing will drive without the carb backfires and i can make it to the dmv, it should pass inspection...just need the pesky air cleaner now.

 

i didnt get to take it around the block to see how it drives yet, but only because i still have the wheels i bought on it.....back in a few with an update

[Grey_Matter]

got the final adjustments done...its actually drivable now...im pretty sure a lot of the tuning problem is that im sure this carb isn't jetted for this motor, i have the fuel mixture screw almost all the way lean...maybe an 1/8th of a turn out from full lean. seems to be holding its idle very well, and i no longer need to use the choke to start it. as long as its warm it starts right up, whereas before no matter what i had to hold the choke closed.

[metalmonkey47]

windshield is installed.

 

just need to get it running right

 

[Grey_Matter]

god that picture bugs me

[Grey_Matter]

so i just drove it to get weighed, and it seems when it drives for a little while it no longer want to run, i had to pull into lowes parkinglot and walk home to get my nissan so i can tow it back home.

 

what would make it no want to accelerate after getting warmed up from driving?

even sitting in one spot i cannot get it to rev up at all, im gonna see if it revs up after i get back to the truck and its cooled off for a little while. i just need it to run long enough to get weighed and goto the dmv to get inspected, im not trying to dump alot of money into this engine that is getting swapped once its registered

[skunk]

sounds like what it was doing to me when the dizzy went out, i tossed new points in it and it ran fine.

[Grey_Matter]

sounds like what it was doing to me when the dizzy went out, i tossed new points in it and it ran fine.

 

i'll try some new points and cap and rotor...but i just tried to start it since it cooled down, and it starts just doesnt idle or rev anymore

just got back from the dmv and heard from the horses mouth that i can bring it to the inspection on a trailer.

[Pacific coast Datsun]

Sounds like a faulty dist. Grab the center shaft & see if it wiggles at all. Just a tad will cause it to run rough.

[datzenmike]

Would seen to be heat related maybe.

 

Valve clearances checked? If tight to begin with the clearances will get smaller when the metals expand. The valves may not seal in the compression very well.

 

Also was the fuel filter changed. Crap might be blocking the primary jet.

[Grey_Matter]

since i cant do anything till i get the money for my motor swap i decided to lower the truck a little....about 3".

 

ive given up on trying to get the L16 running simply because im not willing to put money into a motor that is getting pulled. i replaced the points and now it starts good, but im back to the idling issue and im tired of dicking with it.

 

the CA18DET will be in soon enough.

[skunk]

it looks really good lowerd.

 

sucks you cant get it to run right, im lost as to whats going wrong. i drove it to portland with out any issues, and to work every night.only thing that ever went was the float in the carb. But i would feel the same way, id rather save for a swap then spend money on a engine i could care less about. at lest its not your DD right now, so you can take the time to just save up and get it done.

[Grey_Matter]

it looks really good lowerd.

 

sucks you cant get it to run right, im lost as to whats going wrong. i drove it to portland with out any issues, and to work every night.only thing that ever went was the float in the carb. But i would feel the same way, id rather save for a swap then spend money on a engine i could care less about. at lest its not your DD right now, so you can take the time to just save up and get it done.

 

its definitely the carb causing the headache.

i found a couple CA18DET complete swaps out of the 180sx (240sx) for pretty cheap. this truck will scream with 170whp

[skunk]

when i had the stock carb i had nothing but probs, i tossed a shit weber on there and it ran great.

[Grey_Matter]

when i had the stock carb i had nothing but probs, i tossed a shit weber on there and it ran great.

 

maybe i should attempt to throw the weber i have on there....it wouldnt idle either though. i'll throw it back on tomorrow and see if i can get it to run with it instead.

hey i never got to send the l;ights outs this weekend, im gonna send them out on payday (the 8th)

[banzai510(hainz)]

This is a EZ /2 hour fix.

swap weber on there.

Make sure the accel pump squirts gas

adjust mixute

then set speed screw.

 

Of coarse Im baseing this on a motor that has its cam timmed and distributor timmed.valve lash cked

 

If a coil was swapped and the wrong type installed they will cut out causing back fireing.HOT COIL or make it look like a carb is bad but if nothign was changed I assume the carb was going bad

 

If truck idles assume the idle circut on the carb is good. above that its the main circut running the carb. Puch the gas the accel pump should dump gas in there.

[Grey_Matter]

This is a EZ /2 hour fix.

swap weber on there.

Make sure the accel pump squirts gas

adjust mixute

then set speed screw.

 

Of coarse Im baseing this on a motor that has its cam timmed and distributor timmed.valve lash cked

 

If a coil was swapped and the wrong type installed they will cut out causing back fireing.HOT COIL or make it look like a carb is bad but if nothign was changed I assume the carb was going bad

 

If truck idles assume the idle circut on the carb is good. above that its the main circut running the carb. Puch the gas the accel pump should dump gas in there.

 

the weber i have is missing parts, so im scrapping that idea.

the carb i have on there was idling, but doesn't anymore. i can get it to start, but cannot get it to idle....i even tried from scratch again like i did the first time i got it running. it needs a new carb as far as i can tell. the coil is strong, the points and condensors are new i gapped the poins at .045

i cant wait to get this motor swap here and swapped in

[skunk]

damn, i really want to know what the hell happend to this truck after it left me and befor it got to you, because i drove that thing all over the place. Stock carb went to shit, slaped on a junk weber and it ran great. even drove it to portland and salem a few times (2-4 hour drives round trip) only really stoped driving it because i thought there was something wrong with the head and i had the KC and the KC had bucket seats and a cd player. :P but i still think the reg cab is sexyer then the KC

bummer man, well get the swap done and that little truck can live the life its allways wanted,

[banzai510(hainz)]

point gap should be .018 to .020 I believe If I remeber right

[Grey_Matter]

point gap should be .018 to .020 I believe If I remeber right

 

really???

i have the downloaded repair manual and it says the gap is from.045 to .055

 

i'll try .018 in the morning

 

i just looked at my manual and its does say .45-.55....not .045-.055

but i also read it wrong and the .45-.55 is in millimeters, no where in my manual does it have the conversion to standard....so i will in fact re-gap it to .018

[mike]

point gap = matchbook? It always works for me... If they arent sticking/pitted there is no reason to replace them, youre just throwing money away.

 

Have you checked valve lash?

 

Also do you have all the lines plugged/capped on the carb?

On my 74 I couldnt get it to run right without the aircleaner and all related vacuum lines attached properly. It would run very lean with just the vac ports on the carb plugged and no air cleaner. It also made the fuel level higher in the fuel bowl. I adjusted the carb to compensate for it and when I put it all back together it acted similar to what you are describing. I readjusted everything after I stuck the aircleaner back on and it was golden.

 

The hitachi is a finnicky little bitch but when they work right they are nice little carbs for a daily driver. Once I got it sorted I havent had a single carb related issue in damn near 3 years. Its alot smoother than a weber and theres no dead spot through the entire RPM range under load or not... I also get better mileage with it.

[Grey_Matter]

point gap = matchbook? It always works for me... If they arent sticking/pitted there is no reason to replace them, youre just throwing money away.

 

Have you checked valve lash?

 

Also do you have all the lines plugged/capped on the carb?

On my 74 I couldnt get it to run right without the aircleaner and all related vacuum lines attached properly. It would run very lean with just the vac ports on the carb plugged and no air cleaner. It also made the fuel level higher in the fuel bowl. I adjusted the carb to compensate for it and when I put it all back together it acted similar to what you are describing. I readjusted everything after I stuck the aircleaner back on and it was golden.

 

The hitachi is a finnicky little bitch but when they work right they are nice little carbs for a daily driver. Once I got it sorted I havent had a single carb related issue in damn near 3 years. Its alot smoother than a weber and theres no dead spot through the entire RPM range under load or not... I also get better mileage with it.

 

that could be one of my problems for sure...but this isn't the carb for this truck and i dont have the correct air cleaner

[Grey_Matter]

good news...my home equity loan got approved, so all my credit cards are getting paid off, and im completely getting out of the hole, not to mention i will have 8k left over so my motor swap is going to happen sooner than i thought.

 

now i just need to decide which route to go...SR20DET or CA18DET.

im leaning towards the CA, but havent been able to find any info on the swap into a 620. but i have been reading the thread about the swap into dudes 510

 

not to mention i will be respraying the truck as well...same color and the hood stays (might have to put a scoop for a top mount intercooler though

[izzo]

Do sr20.. more parts and stuff available. not many mods to get it to fit from what i was seeing in vegasdatsuns thread....

[Grey_Matter]

Do sr20.. more parts and stuff available. not many mods to get it to fit from what i was seeing in vegasdatsuns thread....

 

the clearance of the brake booster is what concerns me with the SR20 in his thread, but i do like the no mods for the motor mounts (ive been watching his thread too)

[Grey_Matter]